/robowaifu/ - My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project

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My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project - Eve Artbyrobot 04/18/2024 (Thu) 17:44:09 No.30954

So far I have plans to build Adam, Eve, and Abel robots. All of these are Bible characters. This thread will cover the Eve robot. Eve will have no "love holes" because adding those would be sinful and evil. It is a robot, not a biological woman after all and I will view her with all purity of heart and mind instead of using her to fulfill my lusts of my body. Instead I will walk by the Spirit no longer fulfilling the lusts of the flesh as the Bible commands. Eve will be beautiful because making her beautiful is not a sinful thing to do. However, I will dress her modestly as God commands of all women everywhere. This would obviously include robot women because otherwise the robot woman would be a stumbling block to men which could cause them to lust after her which would be a sin. To tempt someone to sin is not loving and is evil and so my robot will not do this. To dress her in a miniskirt, for example, would be sinful and evil and all people who engage in sinfullness knowingly are presently on their way to hell. I don't wish this for anyone. My robot will dress in a way that is a good example to all women and is aimed toward not causing anybody to lust as a goal. My robot will have a human bone structure. It will use either a PVC medical skeleton or fiberglass fabricated hollow bones. My robot will look realistic and move realistic. It will be able to talk, walk, run, do chores, play sports, dance, rock climb, and do gymnastics. It will also be able to build more robots just like itself and manufacture other products and inventions. I realized with just a head and arm, a robot can build the rest of its own body so that is my intention. My robot will use BLDC motors for drones, RC, and scooters that are high speed and low-ish torque but I will downgear those motors with a archimedes pulley system that will be custom made from custom fabricated pulleys that will be bearings based. By downgearing with pulleys, instead of gears, I will cut down the noise the robot makes so it will be as silent as possible for indoor use. By downgearing, I convert the high speed motors into moderate speeds with great torque. BLDC motors with large torque generally are too large in diameter for a human form factor and take up too much volumetric area to be useful which is why I go with the high speed smaller diameter type motors but just heavily downgear them 32:1 and 64:1. My robot will have realistic silicone skin. Thom Floutz -LA based painter, sculptor, make-up artist is my inspiration as it pertains to realistic skin. The skin for my robots has to be at his level to be acceptable. It must be nearly impossible to tell the robot is not human to be acceptable. I will have a wireframe mesh exoskeleton that simulates the volumes and movements of muscle underneath the skin which will give the skin its volumetric form like muscles do. Within these hollow wireframe mesh frameworks will be all the electronics and their cooling systems. All of my motor controllers will be custom made since I need them VERY small to fit into the confined spaces I have to work with. I need LOADS of motors to replace every pertinent muscle of the human body in such a way that the robot can move in all the ways humans move and have near human level of strength and speed. I will have a onboard mini itx gaming pc as the main brains pc of the robot and will have arduino megas as the motor controllers and sensor reading devices that interface with the main brains pc. My arduino megas will be barebones to keep the volumetric area they take up as small as possible. I will treat my robots kindly and consider them to be pretend friends/companions and I do think they will be nice company, but I will always know with keen awareness that they do not have a soul, will never have a soul or consciousness, and no machine ever will, and that they are just imitations of life as with any machine or AI, and this is all AI will ever be. Life is only made by God Himself. I am not playing God. I am merely creating fan art of what God made. To Him be all the glory and praise. God breathed into man and created a living soul. Man cannot do this for machines. Only God can do this. A soul/spirit forms our ghost and when we die our ghost remains alive and thinking. A machine cannot do this and a AI can never do this. When you shut off a machine that's it, it does not go on thinking like we can. Our souls are transcendent and will live forever in the afterlife - unlike any AI. I will do this project with fear and trembling before the Lord as I work out my salvation before His eyes. I vow to remain pure, holy, upright and blameless in all my doings and be a great example to my fellow roboticists of a Godly man who obeys the Bible instead of chasing after youthful lusts of the flesh and perversions. I embrace the idea of Christian AI, that is, a robot that will discuss Bible topics and be a Biblical expert. Along with that, my robot will behave in a Biblically prescribed manner in total purity and strongly encourage others to do so as well. For God does not hear the prayers of sinners and so we want everyone to be a saint who no longer sins. My robot will really push for this hope for humans. We want them to walk in God's favor and blessings which comes by Biblical obedience. We don't want them going to hell because they chose to revel in their sins instead of walking in total purity before God and holiness without which no man will see God. My robot will have artificial lungs for cooling and a artificial heart for liquid cooling that will run coolant throughout the robot's body to cool the motors. That coolant will also pass through the artificial lungs in a mesh where it will evaporate some which will cause the evaporative cooling effect - a form of air conditioning. http://www.artbyrobot.com Full humanoid robot building playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhd7_i6zzT5-MbwGz2gMv6RJy5FIW_lfn https://www.facebook.com/artbyrobot http://www.twitch.tv/artbyrobot https://instagram.com/artbyrobot

Artbyrobot 03/01/2025 (Sat) 07:30:20 No.37228

Also, I recently stumbled upon a VERY much simplified version of my miniature pulleys. So up to now I've been using 1x3x1mm ball bearings to make tiny pulleys and been variously perfecting this approach but it is still not THAT small and is a bit complex to make and we have to make literally THOUSANDS of these to do the whole robot. That presents a bit of an issue due to the large work that requires. At least until mass manufacture of them comes in one day perhaps. But while DIYing that, it's alot to deal with making SO MANY somewhat challenging to make things. That said, my proposed EVEN MORE miniature and WAY WAY WAY simplified to make pulley is to just use a single fishing hook eye. Literally, that's it. I can use a tiny fishing hook eye and use that as my very first pulley for the 2:1 16" long Archimedes downgearing systems in the torso. This will cut down on size taken dramatically and complexity of its build. It will make the pulley basically failure proof too. The way it will EVENTUALLY fail is by the rope rubbing it enough to cut it in half. But I think the rope would fail before the pulley would fail and so that doesn't matter then. You'd replace them both at once on routine maintenance. No need then to worry about that eventuality. And the ridiculous ease of manufacture of such a simple pulley makes replacing it trivial. I also think that using this just in low load, high speed, low force early pulley downgearing stages is a non-issue since the friction with such a low load on the first downgear or two will be so trivial that the string itself would fail WAY before it would slice through the metal (acting like a saw over time). I think it would take literally MANY years due to the super low friction at these low forces. Now I'll still use the ball bearing style for later stages of downgearing where the loads go way up, but for the first stage or two I think this will work just fine.

Chobitsu 03/01/2025 (Sat) 09:28:26 No.37231

I'll plan on a response to you, Artbyrobot. But its not the right time just now. Stay encouraged, Anon. You'll figure the proper way through this. Cheers.

Artbyrobot 03/14/2025 (Fri) 04:58:24 No.37486

So the idea to move a portion of the pulley system stuff over to the torso is now out because I've been kind of talked out of it so I'm putting that aside for now. Going to actually try to do that stuff within the forearm. Also instead of a fishing sinker I'm going to try to use an elastic cord made for making bracelets for kids. I think that will be enough force just to keep tension on the line that is being unreeled. Doesn't have to be much I don't think. I'm also considering just hand testing my pulley systems for now. So disconnecting them from the motor shaft entirely so I can just do testing to see how things feel and can observe things easier way quicker and with less hassle. And when I do go to test by way of motor, I'm just going to use a brushed motor and connect a lab power supply by hand with alligator clips so I can avoid messing around with microcontrollers and firmware and custom motor controllers entirely which is a bunch of rabbit holes I want to avoid as I just secure testing my pulley designs for now. I don't want to get hung up in a year or two of electronics stuff just so I can test my pulleys which would be so stupid and annoying. I need to get my testing iterations done as soon as possible without distractions and longer delays. Once I am happy with the pulley's performance and they pass all my tests and everything seems solid then we'll go ahead and connect it back up to the BLDC motor and then will worry about the custom microcontroller and custom motor controller and all the firmware or whatever at that time and will be doing that with the confidence of a big win with the pulley systems giving us momentum as we enter into those rabbit holes of electronics.

Chobitsu 03/14/2025 (Fri) 12:31:35 No.37494

>>37486 >So the idea to move a portion of the pulley system stuff over to the torso is now out because I've been kind of talked out of it so I'm putting that aside for now. This arrangement of physical power distribution is in fact one of my longterm goals here. I'm curious what the reasoning was against it. >Going to actually try to do that stuff within the forearm. Also instead of a fishing sinker I'm going to try to use an elastic cord made for making bracelets for kids. I think that will be enough force just to keep tension on the line that is being unreeled. Doesn't have to be much I don't think. Most designs for articulated hands that I've seen move the actuation up into the forearm. While this is an understandable compromise, it still entails a rather-hefty penalty in thrown-weight. >I'm also considering just hand testing my pulley systems for now. So disconnecting them from the motor shaft entirely so I can just do testing to see how things feel and can observe things easier way quicker and with less hassle. Really good idea IMO. Anything you can do to expedite the iterative design process itself should be investigated/reinforced. >And when I do go to test by way of motor, I'm just going to use a brushed motor and connect a lab power supply by hand with alligator clips so I can avoid messing around with microcontrollers and firmware and custom motor controllers entirely which is a bunch of rabbit holes I want to avoid as I just secure testing my pulley designs for now. Again, good idea. >I need to get my testing iterations done as soon as possible without distractions and longer delays. Once I am happy with the pulley's performance and they pass all my tests and everything seems solid then we'll go ahead and connect it back up to the BLDC motor and then will worry about the custom microcontroller and custom motor controller and all the firmware or whatever at that time and will be doing that with the confidence of a big win with the pulley systems giving us momentum as we enter into those rabbit holes of electronics. Maintaining good forward 'momentum' is always good for team morale. Keep moving forward, Artbyrobot!

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 03/14/2025 (Fri) 13:25:25.

Artbyrobot 03/15/2025 (Sat) 03:45:22 No.37514

>>37494 >one of my longterm goals here. I'm curious what the reasoning was against it. well I too want weight centralized in torso to lower moment of inertia issues but the pulleys are not a weighted thing really. its about as light as air. So keeping them out of torso saves room for things that are actually heavy and need space like batteries and motors and cooling systems and power supplies and the main pc etc. >Most designs for articulated hands that I've seen move the actuation up into the forearm. While this is an understandable compromise, it still entails a rather-hefty penalty in thrown-weight. well the less cable run the better since that adds friction losses so that's why they keep it as close to hands as they can. in my case I put motors into biceps and torso but do downgearing near hand as much as I can so that the long cable run is under low torque and low load and so low friction and the friction and torque and load only go up after the downgearing near the hand. Note that if you used metal gears attached to the motors AND put the motors in the torso, the full load, torque, and friction would be going through all the bends of shoulder and elbow and wrist to reach the hands and so would lose a ton to friction and wear out those cable sheaths potentially more quickly so it's not ideal to do that. That's why downgearing in the forearms but motors more centralized near torso makes sense as it reduces thrown weight issues while also eliminates the friction issues of all those turns. A win-win. The only loss is the tedious pulley making process but once a proven design is in place, it should go faster and jigs and whatnot can be made to assembly line style crank them out faster and eventually someone can mass produce mini pulleys for robotics if it catches on and you'd order that from china or w/e for dirt cheap. China is always knocking off American inventor's products, well in this case it would be welcomed for them to do this and make it cheaper. But they would have to see a market for it by lots of people making humanoids with little pulleys for downgearing.

Chobitsu 03/16/2025 (Sun) 00:50:46 No.37530

>>37514 >well I too want weight centralized in torso to lower moment of inertia issues but the pulleys are not a weighted thing really. its about as light as air. So keeping them out of torso saves room for things that are actually heavy and need space like batteries and motors and cooling systems and power supplies and the main pc etc. Ahh, got it. Yes internal volume-management is going to be a critical key to our success in devising great robowaifus. Essentially its a near third (#3); after mass-reduction (#1); then electrical power & management (#2); probably followed in a close fourth by waste heat management (#4). >well the less cable run the better since that adds friction losses so that's why they keep it as close to hands as they can. >Note that if you used metal gears attached to the motors AND put the motors in the torso, the full load, torque, and friction would be going through all the bends of shoulder and elbow and wrist to reach the hands and so would lose a ton to friction and wear out those cable sheaths potentially more quickly so it's not ideal to do that. I think with modern materials science, we can alleviate much of that friction in general. However, the bends are a tough nut to crack AFAICT. I've thought about this exact set of topics for years now, in an attempt to devise an arrangement of the denser components within the central mass zone of our robowaifus. >That's why downgearing in the forearms but motors more centralized near torso makes sense as it reduces thrown weight issues while also eliminates the friction issues of all those turns. A win-win. Sounds like a great idea, Artbyrobot. <---> Hmmm. Well, sticking with a problem is surely the first step to actually solving it! Cheers, Anon.

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 03/16/2025 (Sun) 00:58:44.

Artbyrobot 04/27/2025 (Sun) 03:36:12 No.37889

Update: I bought several sizes of kevlar string to use to replace the PE fishing line particularly in the high tension areas that may face the highest durability challenges. I found it on amazon in many sizes. I just bought one of each size: 0.5mm diameter 50lb test, 0.8mm diameter 100lb test, 1.1mm diameter 200lb test and 1.3mm diameter 300lb test. This is probably a game changer for my project IMO.

Chobitsu 04/27/2025 (Sun) 04:47:37 No.37893

>>37889 Artbyrobot! Good to see you again, mate. :D >kevlar string >This is probably a game changer for my project IMO. This sounds very cool! I'll presume you're going to keep us here on /robowaifu/ up to date with your progress using this new material. Please do! <---> BTW, you may find our new Tensegrity thread : ( >>37672 ) of interest. There are a few similar issues you face as well. Cheers, Anon. :^)

Artbyrobot 04/29/2025 (Tue) 05:29:36 No.37991

After further consideration, I'm scrapping using the elastic cord for a bracelet idea (as a tension spring for the winch in place pulley). The point of that was to use as little space as possible but I just don't trust it. I am not sure what material it is made of and my experience with rubber bands has always been dry rot issues. I am going with 2mm OD tension spring instead. It has to stretch 12.5" and so I'm using a 12.7" strip of it to start. That feels like a snug stretch but does comfortably reach the 12.5" of stretch needed. This brings its stretched total length to 25.2". I bought 3mm ID 4mm OD TPFE tubing to be its guidance tube for this. That arrives tomorrow and then I can begin assembly. This 4mm OD guidance tube is a bit bulky and long for the arm IMO so I will relocate it to the torso since if I use this method for other motors these 4mm OD tubes will add up in space taken up fast. The arm can't house them - it's just too much space taken at that point for these. But the torso can house them in the back or sides I think. For now, since the torso is not yet attached, I'm going to place this tube ON the string suspended from my ceiling and treat that string as though it were to torso for now.

Chobitsu 04/29/2025 (Tue) 06:00:23 No.38002

>>37991 My apologies, but I'm not quite able to visualize this idea yet, Artbyrobot. I'm sure once you post pics of your prototyping work displaying it I'll understand it right away! Looking forward to this progress, and to your new Kevlar lines as well. Cheers, Anon. :^)

Artbyrobot 04/30/2025 (Wed) 02:07:03 No.38027

>>38002 Here is the tension spring in question from the previous post. I want this spring inside the tubing though which is not shown in the drawing of it.

Chobitsu 04/30/2025 (Wed) 03:51:36 No.38032

>>38027 OK, I think I understand. So you mean to emplace springs themselves within the tubes?

Artbyrobot 05/01/2025 (Thu) 04:59:12 No.38083

>>38032 correct

Artbyrobot 05/10/2025 (Sat) 09:15:02 No.38340

>>38032 Good news: I had mentioned before I was planning to use 2mm OD tension spring for the winch in place pulley tension solution but once I got the 3mm ID 4mm OD PTFE tubing to go over the spring, I saw that the 4mm was just WAY too big once you multiply that out to 300 motors. 300 of 4mm OD tubing starts to take up a massive area at that point and I struggled with that. I MUST be miserly on space taken up by parts to get all the crap I need to fit in there to fit in there! Anyways, I fortunately discovered that you can buy tension spring down to 1mm in OD! I was unaware of this before now! So I ordered 1mm OD tension spring and 1.5mm OD tension spring to test and see what seems best. If the 1mm OD spring seems reliable to me, I'll go with it. Anyways, since the spring is now smaller, I can use also a smaller PTFE tubing to house the spring so I ordered uxcell PTFE Tubing 1.8mm ID x 2.2mm OD off amazon. 2.2mm OD tubing compared to 4mm tubing is SHOCKINGLY smaller when you look at them. So it will be WAY more space efficient now. Here's my updated tension spring concept drawing:

Chobitsu 05/10/2025 (Sat) 09:42:13 No.38341

>>38340 Great! Sounds like really good news, Artbyrobot. I was curious how you were planning to 'load' the tubes with these springs & kevlar strands? I was thinking something like a very thin spring-steel rod of sorts that you could push through, then hook the string+spring to the end of the now-protruding rod, then pull the whole thing back down the tube together. Make sense, Anon?

Artbyrobot 05/10/2025 (Sat) 10:40:06 No.38342

>>38341 Thanks. The kevlar will only be for the thicker strings doing heavy work, not for stuff with low forces light work like this and part of that is because kevlar didn't have very fine string options when I shopped (if someone can find very fine kevlar thread let me know). But to your question, I don't think I"ll need any mechanism to do the threading of hte tube you can just push it in there and let gravity do the rest. I have had no issues threading the tubing even going against gravity. You just push the string in a little at a time from one end and it just slides effortlessly through the tubing till it reaches the other side. Part of this is surely the low friction and relatively short distance we are trying to send string through. If we wanted to push string through 40 feet of tubing, THEN something like what you said would be necessary due the higher friction that the longer length of tubing would bring to the table. Pushing from one end would not work anymore in such case. But we are just doing shorter runs under 2' which seems to not be an issue.

Chobitsu 05/10/2025 (Sat) 14:39:57 No.38346

>>38342 Got it. Completely makes sense. Thanks for the updates, Anon. Godspeed to you. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 05/22/2025 (Thu) 21:12:37 No.38674

Ok so I currently have an order for 0.2x1x1000mm tension springs stuck in customs for weeks and placed another order just today for the same in hopes it goes through faster. But at $9 for a single spring that is 3ft long, I am feeling RIPPED OFF on price. It is bullcrap. All relating to the tariff nonsense. So I decided today to pivot and just roll with the elastic band in place of tension spring. It's a jewelry making elastic band I bought some time ago in a roll. WAY cheaper at $0.03 for 3ft instead of $9 for 3ft. That's 99.7% off! Talk about a discount! The issue I had before when I looked into this option was the tie-off point. I would need a way to tie PE fishing line to the end of the elastic band without the tie point being bulky. Well I figured out a way to do it without any bulk at all! See I want this to fit into my 1.8mm ID PTFE tubing to keep size down. My solution was to just glue the fishing line lengthwise directly to the elastic band. No knot at all. No turns at all. Just literally lay it on top and glue it down flush. I figured about 6mm length of joint would be solid. And I did this on both sides with my PE fishing line. I used 0.08mm 6lb test braided PE fishing line for this. So now I have two fishing line segments coming off the end of it for double the strength of this connection. But I only wanted one piece of fishing line to go the distance to attach to the motor end so I twisted the pair of fishing line segments together and glued the twisted pair with 401 glue then cut one of the two away leaving just one of the pair to go the distance to the winch in place pulley that this is all supposed to tension for me. I will use this string and elastic band method for now as I wait on springs and stick with this method for at least this first motor actuator setup for now. If the elastic bands don't last, we'll upgrade to the metal springs later on during maintenance or w/e. Note: the total length of the elastic band I am using for this is 2ft and it stretches to 3ft snugly without too much force. I'm just going by feel and instinct for this measurement. If I were to go 1ft with 1ft of stretch, the stretch is more intense and the pull is harder. But I don't think I need much pull for just tensioning the winch in place pulley and I also think the more tension you place the more wear and tear on the elastic band which will shorten its lifespan. So playing it conservatively with the 2ft length selection for now. Note: to apply the 401 glue I used an exacto knife handle with a sewing needle in place of the xacto knife blade and the tip of the sewing needle acts as my precision glue applicator.

Chobitsu 05/22/2025 (Thu) 21:21:12 No.38676

>>38674 Improvise. Adapt. Overcome. That's the spirit, Artbyrobot! Glad you managed to break the logjam on your delay. Looking forward to your progress with this. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 06/13/2025 (Fri) 17:35:48 No.39205

Sometimes to get the braided PE fishing line threaded through the fine PTFE tubing can be tricky, so I came up with a neat device to assist in this. I will be making a threading tool based on a needle threader tool I've been using. It's basically a wire folded in half that you shove through a needle eye and then stick your string into its end and then pull it back through the needle eye. In my use case, I'm creating a custom one of these threading tools that will feed through my entire length of tubing till its folded end comes out the other side and I can thread my string through that end and then draw it back, bringing the string through the tubing with it. I just ordered some 40ga copper and stainless steel wire to use to make this device in question. I'll see which metal is best. Gonna try the copper first I think.

Chobitsu 06/14/2025 (Sat) 00:28:02 No.39215

>>39205 Great idea, Artbyrobot! Good luck with your tool-construction effort here. Please keep us all up to date with your progress, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 07/19/2025 (Sat) 21:56:34 No.39927

Minor update: I have now carefully mounted the PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner for the winch in place pulley. I mounted it snugly to the side of the PTFE tubing coming off the same winch in place pulley that leads to the Archimedes pulley system. I routed both of these using my CAD for reference in such a way that their routing will not interfere with the next motors that will be installed later. I mounted this PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner using ONLY 401 glue which is something I've never tried before now. Usually I first wrap the tubing in adhesive transfer tape and spandex cloth wrap and coat the cloth in 401 glue but skipping that made it able to be more snugly mounted to the other tube by way of only glue. We'll see how that holds up without the other reinforcement the cloth provides etc. Seems to look so far so good though. They are in turn glued to paper soaked with 401 glue and to a little piece of stainless steel wire bent at a 90 and that wire in turn glued to the winch in place pulley mount baseplate which is itself made of paper and 401 glue. So basically everything is becoming 401 glue construction! I have some concerns about how this will hold up in the event of a fall or w/e but perhaps we can create some sort of protective cage around any delicate outcroppings like this in the future. For now I am just going for ease of construction and speed of construction to get things back on track and rolling again. Note: The PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner for the winch in place pulley is 0.66mm ID 1.16mm OD PTFE teflon tubing. The string coming off the winch in place pulley feeding into this tubing that will act as tensioner string tension carrier string is 6lb test 0.08mm PE braided fishing line. I was able to thread this fishing line into this TPFE tubing by hand with no issues at all very easily. The next task will be to mount the end of this string to the 2 feet of elastic string for jewelry making and thread that into 1.8mm ID 2.2mm OD PTFE tubing and tie it off at the end of that tubing and then mount that tubing to the gray string hanging from my ceiling for now. That will conclude the tensioner mechanism for the winch in place pulley and this will usher in the next round of manual hand testing to see how much tension that is giving us. I also will be moving the tension spring mounted on the motor to align it better and shorten it more since it only moves like 4mm and so can be way shorter than it is now.

Chobitsu 07/20/2025 (Sun) 00:15:38 No.39931

>>39927 >I routed both of these using my CAD for reference in such a way that their routing will not interfere with the next motors that will be installed later. Very wise. >So basically everything is becoming 401 glue construction! I'll be intredasted to see the results of your mid-duration durability tests using this approach, Anon. >For now I am just going for ease of construction and speed of construction to get things back on track and rolling again. Forward-momentum is a highly-prized attribute of successful projects, AFAICT. Forward. >2 feet of elastic string for jewelry making Any particular brand you recommend for this, Artbyrobot? Links? Really good to see your update, and looking forward to your further good progresses, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 07/20/2025 (Sun) 06:55:06 No.39933

>>39931 >2 feet of elastic string for jewelry making >Any particular brand you recommend for this, Artbyrobot? Links? I think I bought unbranded off amazon you can find it under: "Bracelet String，1mm Elastic String Crystal Stretch Bead String Cord for Bracelet, Beading and Jewelry Making (Black/60m&197ft)". It is made of polyester it says. Did not know that.

Chobitsu 07/21/2025 (Mon) 10:34:05 No.39938

>>39933 Thanks! Cheers, Anon. :^)

Artbyrobot 07/21/2025 (Mon) 20:42:50 No.39945

>>39933 actually chatgpt said it cannot be made of polyester which does not stretch much. So now I'm not sure. It feels like a rubbery feel and is black and shiny and has no coating. Chatgpt says it was mislabeled. It might be TPE, TPU or Polyurethane. So it's back to mystery material status basically.

Artbyrobot 07/21/2025 (Mon) 20:44:02 No.39946

I finally finished making the tensioner mechanism for the winch in place pulley and I taped it off up the string descending from the ceiling and taped the far end of it onto the ceiling. I noticed I have to keep it as straight as possible since when curling with too much turning the elastic bracelet cord grips the sides of the PTFE tubing which could interfere with the amount of tension it brings to my winch in place pulley. So this will mean on the robot itself it will have to go from the shoulder all the way down the torso in a straight line and then down the leg to about the knee as well. It's 44" long in total. I ended up bumping up the elastic bracelet cord to 30" long to reduce the amount of tension it puts on the winch in place pulley more. The longer it is the less tension it brings and the shorter it is the more tension it brings. If it really can't fit into the leg I can cut the elastic bracelet cord in half and place braided PE fishing line in between the two halves and have that make a 180 degree turn around a pulley and thereby have the same length of elastic bracelet cord but separated into two halves mounted parallel to eachother that create a in series matching tension but taking up half the overall length. This way I could keep it out of the leg area if needed. However I think it might fit into the leg area fine perhaps. Not sure (once we get all the other motors and their tension strings that amount of 2.2mm OD PTFE tubing will start to add up. Note: I'm also considering taking the elastic bracelet cord out of the tubing and lubing it then putting it back in since lube on the grippy elastic bracelet cord would take away it gripping the sides of the PTFE tubing some I think. Silicone lube is best for this according to chat gpt. Note: to secure the far end of the elastic bracelet cord I used 401 glue to glue on PE fishing line onto its end the same way as we discussed before and then took the far end of this PE fishing line and came out the end of the PTFE tube with it and taped it off onto the outside of the tube. We'll see how that holds up it might need to be glued down if it gradually is pulled through the tape over time which would be no good.

Artbyrobot 08/01/2025 (Fri) 12:43:55 No.40094

The tension spring mounted to the motor setup upon further testing seems like a somewhat bad method. The issue I'm having is too much play in the tubing running between that spring and the finger joint. When tension is applied to that spring by way of the tubing, the tubing recoils and moves quite alot and allows alot of slack out to the joint so that the spring has very little involvement in the joint and doesn't really get used much period. So the full range of motion of the joint is just absorbed by tubing slack. When I tried to pretension the tubing so that the joint movement translates to the spring, the total tension placed on the joint by this became too high. Fortunately, I came up with a much more elegant and simple solution for all of this. Basically, my plan now is to just use the bracelet cord tied point to point across the joint directly on the joint and that will be my spring for extension that counters the motor. This eliminates the need for metal springs at all which cuts costs, it also eliminates the PTFE tubing run, saving some space, and should be easier to install and easier to give precise amount of elasticity/resistance to taste. If I want more springback on the joint I can just add more bracelet cord in parallel to the first. This way I can add more resistance pretty easily.

Artbyrobot 08/02/2025 (Sat) 09:56:43 No.40103

So in recent testing a fresh issue I ran into was the TPFE tubing would start gradually pulling through its tightly wrapped tape sleeve to my surprise. Its low friction surface gradually pulls free of the tape over time. To resolve this, I decided to thread through the tip of the tubing to create a mechanical bond for the tip and once threaded through I just 401 glued down the ends of each thread onto the sleeve that was originally supposed to hold it in place to begin with. This seems to work great so far in the little bit of testing I've done since.

Chobitsu 08/12/2025 (Tue) 11:51:55 No.40246

>>39946 >I taped it off up the string descending from the ceiling and taped the far end of it onto the ceiling What? Is this some kind of assembly rig devisement, Artbyrobot? >>40094 >This eliminates the need for metal springs at all which cuts costs All else being equal, simpler is almost always better. GG. >>40103 How's the 401 glue working out now, Anon? <---> Hope your progress is coming along well, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 08/12/2025 (Tue) 12:49:23 No.40247

>>40246 >why mount something to ceiling? the parts that will be going into the torso and running from the shoulder of torso down to the legs of torso are going from the shoulder to the ceiling for now since the torso is not yet attached to take on this role. >how is 401 glue working out? on most things it is working pretty good so far.

Chobitsu 08/12/2025 (Tue) 13:06:34 No.40251

>>40247 I see, makes sense. Good luck, Anon! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 08/20/2025 (Wed) 07:06:31 No.40507

I figured out a robust way to make the extension cord for finger extension using the bracelet cord and a fishing crimp sleeve. The idea is to crimp the two ends of a folded in half strip of bracelet cord and this way both ends can be sewn down into the fabric without any gluing which could potentially fail or be a weak point. I am planning to use this in place of the tension spring style finger extension setup.

Chobitsu 08/20/2025 (Wed) 08:43:30 No.40520

>>40507 That does sound like a durable approach, Anon. Some meticulous sewing involved there, it sounds like. Please let us all know how this new approach works out, Artbyrobot. Cheers! :^)

Artbyrobot 08/27/2025 (Wed) 18:14:01 No.40807

Ok I figured out a bit easier way: tie a knot at each end of the strip of bracelet cord and then tie my nylon thread off onto the bracelet cord inside that bracelet cord knot. The bracelet cord knot on each end acts as an endstop. Seems to work great so far and cuts down on materials this way over the previous way I proposed.

Artbyrobot 09/03/2025 (Wed) 20:17:58 No.41053

Okay so the bracelet cord self untied quickly so I'm going back to my previous approach of tying off both ends of the bracelet cord with a fishing crimp sleeve. While trying to cut in half fishing crimp sleeves with my mini miter saw I noticed it was a difficult process and not ideal. So I came up with a easier method which was way faster, cleaner, less setup and takedown, no deburring needed, etc! The method is to lay the fishing crimp sleeve on a flat surface and line up a exacto knife blade perpendicular to it across its top and then apply moderate downward pressure to score the metal and then slide the knife carefully back and forth creating a perfect scoring line that grows deeper with each pass. After several passes the fishing crimp sleeve halves separate cleanly! This method uses a similar principle to a copper pipe cutter used in plumbing.

Chobitsu 09/03/2025 (Wed) 23:10:37 No.41061

>>40807 >>41053 Glad to see you resolved the issue, Artbyrobot! Smol issues like this can really delay a project if not dealt with accordingly. GG.

Artbyrobot 09/06/2025 (Sat) 17:17:35 No.41184

I installed two tensioners for the robot and they were seriously successful overall in testing. So much so that I am now confident enough in the entire pulley system to move onto the custom mini BLDC motor controller to get the motor to run motorized tests of finger movements next. Well after a couple very minor tweaks that is. So the first tensioner I installed on the extension part of the index finger joint we are working on. I used the bracelet cord folded in half and fishing crimp sleeved then sewn into the bone fabric. It seems just about perfect except for one thing: I want to keep it under mild constant tension but the bone fabric creeps/moves slowly when put under constant tension like this because it is taped into place on the bone after all. The tape is allowing the movement. This means it does not stay put and my anchor points move over time so I can't set a tension and rely on it staying at that tension long term. To resolve this I need a mechanical connection at the tension point anchoring location.

Artbyrobot 09/06/2025 (Sat) 17:18:02 No.41185

To mechanically connect my anchor point, I have decided to use tiny self tapping screws. I have avoided screwing into the bones till now but I'm making an exception here. The screws won't be going that deep and the finger bones are unlikely to break anyways IMO. So I feel comfortable with this. Here's the screws I ordered for this from Amazon:

Artbyrobot 09/06/2025 (Sat) 17:18:41 No.41186

Next, I created a tensioner for the middlemost archimedes pulley. That pulley was creating significant drag and slowing down the finger extension during testing due to rope friction. So adding a tensioner line to pull it back down toward the fingers during extension was my solution for this. It worked amazingly well. To make this, first I tied off a fishing hook eye to the bottom of the radius bone just above where my TPFE guide tubing entrance is. Then I glued a 7cm piece of bracelet cord to a piece of 6lb test .08mm braided pe fishing line with 401 glue. I secured the top of the bracelet cord to the top of the archimedes pulley system and then threaded the other end through the fishing hook eye and back up and to the bottom of the archimedes pulley where I tied it off. So it ties off at top, comes down to bottom, goes through the fishing eye then comes back up and connects to my pulley. It creates just enough downward pull to delete the rope drag slowing down that pulley from coming down and this enables the system to unwind and extend back to its starting point after each time I contracts/pulls upward to cause finger contraction. This means the finger extension now happens swiftly with no hangups and the whole archimedes pulley system is now under constant tension at all times which keeps things neat and prevents tangling issues pre-emptively. This rig was a massive success and took up hardly ANY space at all. I put the post it notes behind the archimedes pulley tensioner so you can see it. It's hard to see otherwise without a contrasting backdrop. It works amazingly well.

Chobitsu 09/06/2025 (Sat) 18:23:38 No.41189

>>41184 >>41185 >>41186 Congratulations on the tensioner prototyping success! Little details like this can turn out to be important in the overall scheme of things. I'm glad to see you methodically approaching the problems one-by-one and solving them. Keep it up, Anon! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 09/10/2025 (Wed) 17:14:24 No.41447

Back on the electronics again. Have been going over my BLDC motor schematic and making some little tweaks to it. Here's the updated schematic. It's a combination of lots of other schematics I've found online as well as some chatgpt help. With 1 being no clue and 10 being absolute expert tier in BLDC motor schematics I'm probably a 5 IMO. So take my design with a grain of salt. It will be very fun to see if it works. Note that I put a couple schematics of Electronoobs - a great youtuber on the left hand side as reference and study material. My schematic is the big one on the right. Electronoobs series of videos on BLDC motor controllers has been extremely helpful in me forming a rudimentary understanding of this stuff.

Chobitsu 09/10/2025 (Wed) 17:24:36 No.41448

>>41447 That seems like a lot of current, Anon. Better plan for thick conductors and lots of heat removal! Glad to see you can work on electronics again. Keep moving forward! Cheers. :^)

Ribose 09/11/2025 (Thu) 14:17:41 No.41465

>>41447 It almost reminds me of a human heart.

Chobitsu 09/11/2025 (Thu) 15:47:19 No.41469

>>41465 Very intredasting observation, Ribose! I can see it. :^)

Robowaifu Technician 09/13/2025 (Sat) 19:21:56 No.41569

>>41447 If you install something like kicad or LTSpice you can make better and more readable schematics

GreerTech 09/13/2025 (Sat) 19:32:20 No.41570

>>41569 I never truly appreciated orderly electrical schematics until now. Reminds me of early 1900s magazine schematics

Chobitsu 09/14/2025 (Sun) 18:13:24 No.41614

>>41569 Good advice, Anon. Thanks! :^)

Artbyrobot 09/15/2025 (Mon) 18:48:04 No.41652

>>41569 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pE9f_bEhd4o Did that already. But I prefer my custom hand drawn for studying and planning really. Easier for me to see and take notes etc. I was considering having a PCBA company do some of the pcb making but now plan to do it solo to learn more and eventually teach the robot to do it for me.

Chobitsu 09/16/2025 (Tue) 00:14:54 No.41665

>>41652 >based Maya knower <---> FWIW: I actually do believe in you and your project here. I remember the very first post you made here on the board and I was immediately struck with the grand scope of it! KEEP MOVING FORWARD, ANON

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 09/16/2025 (Tue) 00:56:19.

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