/robowaifu/ - My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project

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My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project - Eve Artbyrobot 04/18/2024 (Thu) 17:44:09 No.30954

So far I have plans to build Adam, Eve, and Abel robots. All of these are Bible characters. This thread will cover the Eve robot. Eve will have no "love holes" because adding those would be sinful and evil. It is a robot, not a biological woman after all and I will view her with all purity of heart and mind instead of using her to fulfill my lusts of my body. Instead I will walk by the Spirit no longer fulfilling the lusts of the flesh as the Bible commands. Eve will be beautiful because making her beautiful is not a sinful thing to do. However, I will dress her modestly as God commands of all women everywhere. This would obviously include robot women because otherwise the robot woman would be a stumbling block to men which could cause them to lust after her which would be a sin. To tempt someone to sin is not loving and is evil and so my robot will not do this. To dress her in a miniskirt, for example, would be sinful and evil and all people who engage in sinfullness knowingly are presently on their way to hell. I don't wish this for anyone. My robot will dress in a way that is a good example to all women and is aimed toward not causing anybody to lust as a goal. My robot will have a human bone structure. It will use either a PVC medical skeleton or fiberglass fabricated hollow bones. My robot will look realistic and move realistic. It will be able to talk, walk, run, do chores, play sports, dance, rock climb, and do gymnastics. It will also be able to build more robots just like itself and manufacture other products and inventions. I realized with just a head and arm, a robot can build the rest of its own body so that is my intention. My robot will use BLDC motors for drones, RC, and scooters that are high speed and low-ish torque but I will downgear those motors with a archimedes pulley system that will be custom made from custom fabricated pulleys that will be bearings based. By downgearing with pulleys, instead of gears, I will cut down the noise the robot makes so it will be as silent as possible for indoor use. By downgearing, I convert the high speed motors into moderate speeds with great torque. BLDC motors with large torque generally are too large in diameter for a human form factor and take up too much volumetric area to be useful which is why I go with the high speed smaller diameter type motors but just heavily downgear them 32:1 and 64:1. My robot will have realistic silicone skin. Thom Floutz -LA based painter, sculptor, make-up artist is my inspiration as it pertains to realistic skin. The skin for my robots has to be at his level to be acceptable. It must be nearly impossible to tell the robot is not human to be acceptable. I will have a wireframe mesh exoskeleton that simulates the volumes and movements of muscle underneath the skin which will give the skin its volumetric form like muscles do. Within these hollow wireframe mesh frameworks will be all the electronics and their cooling systems. All of my motor controllers will be custom made since I need them VERY small to fit into the confined spaces I have to work with. I need LOADS of motors to replace every pertinent muscle of the human body in such a way that the robot can move in all the ways humans move and have near human level of strength and speed. I will have a onboard mini itx gaming pc as the main brains pc of the robot and will have arduino megas as the motor controllers and sensor reading devices that interface with the main brains pc. My arduino megas will be barebones to keep the volumetric area they take up as small as possible. I will treat my robots kindly and consider them to be pretend friends/companions and I do think they will be nice company, but I will always know with keen awareness that they do not have a soul, will never have a soul or consciousness, and no machine ever will, and that they are just imitations of life as with any machine or AI, and this is all AI will ever be. Life is only made by God Himself. I am not playing God. I am merely creating fan art of what God made. To Him be all the glory and praise. God breathed into man and created a living soul. Man cannot do this for machines. Only God can do this. A soul/spirit forms our ghost and when we die our ghost remains alive and thinking. A machine cannot do this and a AI can never do this. When you shut off a machine that's it, it does not go on thinking like we can. Our souls are transcendent and will live forever in the afterlife - unlike any AI. I will do this project with fear and trembling before the Lord as I work out my salvation before His eyes. I vow to remain pure, holy, upright and blameless in all my doings and be a great example to my fellow roboticists of a Godly man who obeys the Bible instead of chasing after youthful lusts of the flesh and perversions. I embrace the idea of Christian AI, that is, a robot that will discuss Bible topics and be a Biblical expert. Along with that, my robot will behave in a Biblically prescribed manner in total purity and strongly encourage others to do so as well. For God does not hear the prayers of sinners and so we want everyone to be a saint who no longer sins. My robot will really push for this hope for humans. We want them to walk in God's favor and blessings which comes by Biblical obedience. We don't want them going to hell because they chose to revel in their sins instead of walking in total purity before God and holiness without which no man will see God. My robot will have artificial lungs for cooling and a artificial heart for liquid cooling that will run coolant throughout the robot's body to cool the motors. That coolant will also pass through the artificial lungs in a mesh where it will evaporate some which will cause the evaporative cooling effect - a form of air conditioning. http://www.artbyrobot.com Full humanoid robot building playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhd7_i6zzT5-MbwGz2gMv6RJy5FIW_lfn https://www.facebook.com/artbyrobot http://www.twitch.tv/artbyrobot https://instagram.com/artbyrobot

Artbyrobot 01/09/2025 (Thu) 04:22:48 No.35496

Here's my latest progress on the winch in place pulley setup. I opted for 10lb test 0.12mm diameter PE fishing line (orange color) as the output that will interface into the first pair of downgearing pulleys of my archimedes pulley downgearing system. This turn in place pulley achieves 2.77:1 downgearing ratio now. The motor shaft reels in 32 inches of string that is 6lb test 0.08mm pe fishing line (black) and after the downgearing pulley, the final amount of orange fishing line reeled in is 11.55". That's a much more manageable amount of runout for the archimedes pulley system to deal with to keep it more compact. The archimedes pulley downgearing system will add an additional 16:1 downgearing to this which brings me to a total of 44:1 downgearing. The motor itself pulls at .5lb pulling force so after 44x that increases to 22lb of pulling power. After mechanical disadvantage is factored in, I estimate the finger can curl 5.5lb ideally which is about the same strength as my finger. So that's perfect and VERY strong IMO.

Chobitsu 01/09/2025 (Thu) 06:08:56 No.35497

>>35496 Sounds like great news to start the new year off with, Artbyrobot. Thanks for the update! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 01/16/2025 (Thu) 05:19:33 No.35682

Not the most substantial update but I wanted to share my top cap solution for the winch in place pulley. In this photo, you can see that I cut out a small piece of the clear plastic from strawberry container into a little square and poked a hole in it with sewing needle then pressed it onto the tack firmly till the tack jutted out a bit like 1mm. Then I glued the tack to the top cap with 401 glue. This keeps the pulley from coming off the winch when the motor is upside down which it is now. Another small update is I just ordered some plastisol to experiment with for robot skin making or even other parts of the robot like the artificial lungs or even ligaments perhaps. I ordered the hard and the soft versions which you can mix together to get medium variants. This is the stuff used to make fishing lures but the harder formulations make pvc medical skeletons. It is a thermal plastic so its like TPU but unlike TPU, not so fussy since you can microwave it for 3 minutes and use it - much easier and lower fumes. You can reuse it too by just microwaving it again. So that's a improvement over silicone. The worm fishing lures are quite durable. It comes in clear and you add pigment. I plan to add acrylic paint and may switch to dies or lacquer paints to see what works. I think using this as skin is being slept on. It seems like it could have huge potential. You can shoot it into a mold or apply it over a 3d model by spray or brush or knife application methods. Then peel off and use. I love that it can cure instantly in theory if you spray the hot surface of it with upside down compressed duster can - this is how I get hot glue to insta cure. A instant cure is amazing for fast results. I like super glue/401 glue because it insta cures with accelerator spray. Anything with no wait time for curing speeds up workflow and enables me to move quicker in getting steps done. This would make it superior to silicone due to no wait times. A power mesh backing fabric will give it the rip resistance it needs just like silicone mask makers use.

Chobitsu 01/16/2025 (Thu) 08:06:16 No.35692

>>35682 Nice clever little hack, Artbyrobot. GG. >plastisol discussion Thanks! You might also check out the discussion in our general Robo Skin thread on this : ( >>35259, ...) . Keep up the good work, Anon.

Artbyrobot 01/21/2025 (Tue) 07:26:44 No.35946

I had a eureka moment recently that I wanted to share. So basically I was thinking that I may not need to read back emf from a BLDC motor in my custom motor controller. Instead, I can have it just mindlessly advance the motor at a fairly low power mode by default and a default speed of advancement of the rotating electromagnetic field. Without feedback, it may overshoot, rotating faster than the output shaft and thereby skipping some turns. That is the reason why people want to read the back emf to avoid that issue and instead only advance the electromagnetic field forward at just the right moment - the zero point crossing moment. But I was thinking about it and realized that is not really necessary. For this application, if skips start happening, it doesn't really matter. To the degree that skips are happening, the motor will stop advancing the load with its winch system and this will show up when readings are taken by the potentiometer measuring the final joint angle. If alot of skips were taking place, the advancement of the potentiometer would not match the angle it thought it would be at were no skips involved and this would tell the motor controller that it has been having skips and give it an idea of how many skips as well based on the divergence of projected joint angle by now and actual joint angle by now. So then it would turn down the speed a bit or turn up the amount of on time of its pwm and thereby put more force into the rotating magnetic field to give a bit more oomph to the motor. It would then track progress by way of the potentiometer again and see if that solved it. If it still is skipping a fair amount that could indicate the load is more than expected or there is a jam in the system or it just needs more power and it could turn up the power more and slow the speed down more on its rotating magnetic field overall speed and try again. Rinse and repeat until it finds the sweet spot or finds out it simply cannot lift the load because its too heavy or there's a jam in the pulleys or w/e. So in a way then this would give it collision detection as well as the ability to have an idea of how heavy loads are based on how much it had to slow down and add forces to get the joint to move. I then see no real need to implement ANY back emf reading NOR any need for hall effect sensors etc to monitor rotation progress. The potentiometer on the final joint the motor is actuating is enough clues to tweak the rotating magnetic field to our satisfaction. By eliminating the back emf circuitry we greatly simplify the schematic of the motor controller, suffer negligible performance hit, and eliminate a lot of processing for the microcontroller chip handling the logic of many bldc motors simultaneously which means it can handle more bldc motors by itself. It doesn't get bogged down so much by having to read in all the zero point crossings as part of its routine. This saves on processing demands and processing speed demands. Getting this all to work in real time and perfecting it will require a fair bit of trial and error but this is how I'm seeing it working out and my proposed solution for simplifying things. I think it should work great! I'm excited to have much more dumbed down circuitry like this and to get to working on this soon. Just have to finish making my pulleys and then this electronics development can get underway again. That's why I've been thinking ahead about it a fair bit since it seems I'm likely nearing the end of solving the pulleys situation soon.

Chobitsu 01/21/2025 (Tue) 13:42:24 No.35952

>>35946 >I'm excited to have much more dumbed down circuitry like this and to get to working on this soon. >That's why I've been thinking ahead about it a fair bit since it seems I'm likely nearing the end of solving the pulleys situation soon. This sounds exciting, Artbyrobot. I hope you can prove your thesis about the simplified control approach soon. As Kiwi and others here have mentioned (in effect): The most reliable actuator is the one that isn't there! Cheers, Anon. :^) >=== -sp, minor edit

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 01/21/2025 (Tue) 13:58:14.

Artbyrobot 01/23/2025 (Thu) 04:16:30 No.35990

I realized the 1x3x1mm ball bearings are really the perfect size being so small which is ideal to keep things compact but the only disadvantage is they only support I think 10lb weight put on them before they'd break. So I was going to use them for the first couple pulleys in the archimedes pulley system then switch to a plain bearing I made for when the forces get too high for the 1x3x1mm ball bearing to handle in the last couple pulleys. But recently it hit me that I can stack two of the 1x3x1mm bearings on top of eachother and use two fishing lines for that section of pulley to go around these double stacked pulleys in order to double the load capacity. If that is not enough I can add another single or double pulley below it and they would all come up together acting as a single pulley as far as the downgearing goes distributed across more than one bearing. With this approach I can use this type of ball bearing exclusively for everything since I can just add more and more of them for higher load situations in theory. I mean maybe for leg motor downgearing I could bump up to a beefier pulley but we'll see. So that is yet another nice breakthrough idea I had recently. I'm currently wrapping up my 2nd archimedes pulley system prototype and will be posing an update on that soon.

Artbyrobot 01/24/2025 (Fri) 03:21:19 No.36003

Here's just a couple of my latest design drawings for my archimedes pulley system and a double stacked pulley setup. And here are assorted parts progress for the archimedes pulley system.

Chobitsu 01/24/2025 (Fri) 17:50:15 No.36033

>>35990 >>36003 Thanks for the project updates, Artbyrobot. Keep going! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 01/29/2025 (Wed) 07:35:15 No.36233

Here's a little update on my version 2 archimedes pulley system. It's cleaner than v1 version and you'll note that rather than tying off ends into the 1000 denier nylon fabric sleeve of the bone, which chafed the attachment point and caused premature failure on version 1, I'm now tying off onto the eye of a fishing hook that I get by snapping the hook's eye off with wire cutter and sanding smooth with nail file. Also I'm using a fisherman's knot rather than square knots as that handles higher loads without snapping or stress concentrating too much locally. What you see in this photo is 4:1 downgearing. Add this to my 2.77:1 downgearing with the winch in place pulley on the motor by its output shaft and you have nearly 11:1 downgearing so far. I need to add just two more pulleys to get to our 44:1 downgearing final output. Note that I have two yellow lines coming off the bottom pulley pair since I plan to load distribute across two lines instead of just one so I can use my load capacity limited 1x3x1mm ball bearing based pulleys and not overload them. This divides the load by two. I'll be using double stacked pulleys for the next couple downgears to share the load across double pulleys instead of single pulleys. I'm getting so close to electronics phase for final testing of all this downgearing madness!

Chobitsu 01/29/2025 (Wed) 07:45:10 No.36234

>>36233 >I'm getting so close to electronics phase for final testing of all this downgearing madness! Sounds awesome, Artbyrobot! Question: It appears that the smol black cords associated with them are binding the pulleys? Do the pulleys rotate freely in fact, or does the fishing line simply slide through the guides? <---> Regardless, really exciting to hear you'll soon be entering prototype testing phase. Godspeed, Anon! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 01/29/2025 (Wed) 08:04:54 No.36235

The black cords just wrap around the whole outside, holding everything together some and are just coated with 401 glue the whole way around. These keep everything intact. They stick to the guidance discs on the outsides that sandwich in the actual pulley. The guidance discs will never rotate. Only the pulleys on the inside, actually rotate. The guidance discs don’t bear any load and their only job is to prevent derailment of the orange fishing lines, keeping them in their proper channels.

Chobitsu 01/29/2025 (Wed) 08:11:27 No.36236

>>36235 Ahh, thanks! Makes perfect sense, Anon. My apologies if you covered this earlier, I have a lot on my plate rn. Really looking forward to your next steps! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 01/31/2025 (Fri) 10:42:20 No.36306

A couple discoveries were made today. #1- I noticed it was about impossible to pull from the bottom of the Archimedes pulley system and get the motor to unwind. After discussing the issue and potential causes with chatgpt for a while we figured out that the culprit is the tensioned string I put onto the output shaft of the motor to allow for snug unwinding and winding of the opposing string pair that I installed for manual turning of the motor shaft during testing. This tensioned string wrapped around the motor shaft only requires about 1lb of force to pull the motor enough to turn the motor output shaft. However, after the downgearing, to fight past that 1lb resistance to turning the motor output shaft would require 12lb of force since you have to divide the force applied at the output end by the number of downgear ratio you are at! And so after all points of friction in the pulleys and teflon tubing and the motor output shaft's magnetic cogging even while freewheeling we might be more like at 13-14lb of force required. And that is a TON of force to apply by just hand gripping fishing line. So I figured my system was just way too resistive somewhere or collectively and completely non-viable until we solved this issue! The 1lb at the motor might not seem big but it's HUGE to overcome when pulling from the backside after all downgearing. Wow. So we solved that big scare. I was very concerned and exploring alternative plans thinking we might have failed with pulleys approach before this was finally solved today. I'm so relieved. So once we remove those strings which are impeding the motor shaft from turning, we should only need a reasonable say 3lb of force on the back end of the pulley system, exerted by springs, to get the motor to unreel for joint extension back to default stance. #2 - While exploring the aforementioned issues with trying to unwind the pulley system from the downgeared end, I began to realize the tension spring on the far side that unreels the motor and unwinds the pulley system has to be significant. I was exploring my options when an idea hit me: what if I used straight wires lashed onto the finger like a splint on the finger joint. I could put several fine spring steel straight wires parallel to eachother say .3mm in diameter wires and have them distributed as needed around the finger parallel to the finger. Then when the motor is done actively reeling in the finger to get the finger to flex, these resistive wires will be placing significant force to straighten the finger back out because they want to return to their straight state ASAP. By doing the return spring in this manner I save a TON of space since I'm putting it snugly around the joint itself and then don't have to put tension wires (a ton of them) into the forearm somewhere or w/e. I'm using space hugging so tightly to the finger that its space that seems unuseful until this idea came to me! So I pretty much deleted the volume taken by all the otherwise necessary tension spring wires if this idea works! I bought a large assortment of 40cm length spring steel wire off amazon to experiment and try out my idea. This could be epic! As a side benefit, these can act as additional support for the joint itself preventing sprains and dislocations of the bones and keeping everything snug and compact in a way that really helps support and aid the artificial ligaments I already have in place.

Artbyrobot 02/06/2025 (Thu) 08:37:51 No.36662

Here's my completed V2 archimedes pulley system finally done! It is 16:1 downgearing and this pairs with my 2.77:1 downgearing on the turn in place pulley on the motor for a total of 44:1 downgearing. It is fully rigged then from motor to finger and ready to go into testing soon. I just need to do a couple reinforcements here and there on some stuff but overall we are more or less ready to move onto setting up the return springs that my last post mentioned. So that is next. Then electronics to actuate it and test it finally! Exciting times! Also, I have come to the realization that these straight spring wires may be perfect for forming the exoskeleton mesh shapes that create the framework scaffolding over which the artificial silicone skin will overlay. The fact it has memory and wants to return to its prior shape after impacts is perfect for this application. I'd be simply forming a grid in the shape of the muscles over the bones using this stuff and then onto this grid I would overlay the silicone skin suit. The grid can be configured to even move under the skin, emulating muscle contractions to simulate real muscles moving under the skin in terms of its appearance during movement. I was originally leaning toward zip ties to make this part or nylon 3d printer filament but this spring wire may be even better due to being strong, resistive to breaking even more durability wise, holding its shape perhaps a bit better, etc. The other options I mentioned aren't bad but I just think I might like working with spring wire a bit more intuitively. We'll see.

Robowaifu Technician 02/06/2025 (Thu) 19:29:08 No.36693

>>36662 >Here's my completed V2 archimedes pulley system finally done! >So that is next. Then electronics to actuate it and test it finally! Exciting times! WOOT WOOT!! Good work, Artbyrobot. >Also, I have come to the realization that these straight spring wires may be perfect for forming the exoskeleton mesh shapes >but I just think I might like working with spring wire a bit more intuitively. We'll see. Wow, this sounds like an interesting idea, Anon. Do you anticipate undue mass by using these springs this way, or no? <---> Regardless, really excited to see your accomplishment. Keep moving forward! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 02/07/2025 (Fri) 05:45:30 No.36719

>>36693. > Do you anticipate undo mass by using these springs this way? No, actually it should be extremely lightweight because it would be the thickness of a fine sewing needle and it would form a grid with maybe one inch spacing as the size of each grid square so it would be like 8oz for the entire arm for example. Actually, this would be even lightweight enough to use for building a kite with this type of spring wire. as a matter of fact because of this technique, reducing the need for thick silicone skin to hold the shape, it will lighten the shape overall tremendously more than pretty much any other technique that I can think of

Chobitsu 02/07/2025 (Fri) 08:02:25 No.36721

>>36719 Excellent! That's really good to hear, Artbyrobot. You've convinced me this would be a useful technique to use for robowaifu shell support, and I was hopeful it wouldn't prove to be too much mass involved. Clearly sounds like that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, Anon. Cheers. :^) >=== -sp edit

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 02/07/2025 (Fri) 10:25:10.

Artbyrobot 02/12/2025 (Wed) 08:23:50 No.36917

Well the straight spring wire acting as a finger joint spring idea was a bust. Turned out when it bent to 90 degrees it would not return to straight again. I thought spring wire would but this stuff didn't. This is not what chatgpt said would happen so chatgpt failed me this time. Anyways, still glad for its help when its right which is most of the time I think. That said, I fell back to my original spring solution which was to use a 3mm diameter tension spring as the return spring. I experimented with different lengths till I got one as short as possible that would stretch out the necessary .75" roughly to accomodate the finger joint's reverse direction counter tension needs. The shorter the spring the more it resists being pulled and also the thicker the spring the more it resists being pulled. I used default thickness from my premade tension spring order and it seemed fine and the length of the spring I cut and tested trial and error till I found a good length for my need. For my .75" draw length I went with one 1cm long spring which stretches itself out to .75" + 1cm in total without ruining itself. It seems like it pulls around 2lb of pulling force but I haven't measured it with a scale. I fed it through bowden tubing from the place I mounted it on the motor all the way to the joint being actuated - the backside of the index finger. It's job is to keep the archimedes pulley system and winch in place pulley taught at all times and to return the finger to full extension when the motor is not actively pulling it into a grasp position. I have not yet tested if it is strong enough to do this job but assume I'll need two of them to be strong enough. I'll test with just one for now and add another spring to double it's strength if needed later. I deliberated alot on where to mount this spring and last minute decided to just mount it on the motor it is counter tensioning since I have enough space for it there and I can just follow the same bowden tube routing the motor is using generally. This seemed easiest for me given my massive space constraints and the need for a ton of these springs to handle all the finger joints. Seems like it should work well so far.

Chobitsu 02/12/2025 (Wed) 08:52:12 No.36919

>>36917 >This is not what chatgpt said would happen so chatgpt failed me this time. Haha, better get used to that, my fren! PozzGPT is a large language model, a statistical artifact (and one explicitly being 'taught' to (((lie))), at that! :D, not a Mechanical Engineer. We'd all do well to remember these facts. :^) So, I'm not quite sure yet...did your new approach prove sufficient, or no? <---> Regardless, glad to see you continuing to refine your design details unabated, Artbyrobot. This is how you're going to succeed in the end -- simply by not giving up!! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 02/12/2025 (Wed) 11:06:44 No.36922

>>36919 > Did your new approach proof sufficient? I don’t know yet. I haven’t had a chance to test it. I just wanted to show the progress I made with this tentative new solution. If this spring is not strong enough, I can use two springs. I haven’t finished connecting the other end up to the finger fully yet so I can’t test yet. That will come next.

Chobitsu 02/12/2025 (Wed) 17:44:41 No.36929

>>36922 Ahh, got it. Looking forward to seeing how things work out with this Anon. I'm sure you'll figure things out in the end! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 02/21/2025 (Fri) 06:04:47 No.37130

Ok so a few minor updates: I have decided that since I am employing tension springs to actively work against the motors in a constant tug-of-war while the motors try to grasp, I'm losing grip strength based on that. To make up for that, I'm going to use a separate motor for the distal-most fingertip joint and the second to distal-most fingertip joint rather than have a single motor do both of these joints. I made these adjustments in my CAD. I will have to change the tubing setup for the grasping tubing of the index finger to reflect this change too. This will also give the fingers even more precision and dexterity in the end - not to mention a massive boost in strength - so it's well worth it. I also decided to use n20 gear motors for the axial rotation of the base of the fingers instead of BLDC motors like everything else since these will only be used when doing the tiniest of micro adjustments and rarely employed - so a little gear noise once in a blue moon for this precision work on a tiny scale should not be that bad. So that's 4 N20 gearmotors going in. These are being used just to save on space taken and pulleys needed a bit. I'm putting these 4 into the forearm in location pictured. Next, when the spring is pulling, I noticed the TPFE guidance tubing goes from straight and relaxed to wavy under the tension. It is trying to compress under the friction which is what causes this. In the worst cases, Will Cogley's robot hand project had this same issue and the tubing literally compacted so much near the ends that it developed wrinkles/folds where it was crushing the tubing and destroying itself under the pressure. Mine is not to that extreme but this is WHY people put metal coils around the tubing for bike brakes to prevent crushing forces onto the tubing. I don't think I will need this but I might put it in certain places as a last ditch effort if needed later. That said, to prevent some of this compaction stuff on the spring's tubing, I'm going to be using TWO tubes which will divide up these forces causing this by 2. Sharing the load between them evenly. So the tension spring will have two fishing lines coming off of it and two tubes to guide that line to the finger joint where it does it's thing.

Chobitsu 02/21/2025 (Fri) 16:30:59 No.37136

>>37130 >To make up for that, I'm going to use a separate motor for the distal-most fingertip joint and the second to distal-most fingertip joint rather than have a single motor do both of these joints. So, I think I'm understanding you to say each of the 4 fingers on the hand will have 2 separate actuation motors? How about the thumb? Any specifics defined yet for how you'll be approaching the 'opposable thumb' type motion? >I'm putting these 4 into the forearm in location pictured. This should afford you some volume for sound-deadening shrouding. Any plans yet for cooling them? What about cooling in general, BTW? >so it's well worth it. Yes indeedy! :^) <---> >I don't think I will need this but I might put it in certain places as a last ditch effort if needed later >I'm going to be using TWO tubes which will divide up these forces causing this by 2. Sharing the load between them evenly. You were discussing these thin & lightweight spring 'wires' earlier : (cf. >>36662). What about the idea of sliding your tubes down into a larger-diameter one of these, then applying a thin bead of silicone or some other fixant (epoxy?) to rigidize these Bowden cables for you? <---> Regardless, nice to see your nice progress in this post Artbyrobot. Keep moving forward! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 02/22/2025 (Sat) 01:37:10 No.37142

>>37136 >So, I think I'm understanding you to say each of the 4 fingers on the hand will have 2 separate actuation motors? No I was saying the last two distal-most joints of the finger will each have a motor assigned to it. One motor per joint. The rest of the joints will not be affected by these two motors at all. They have their own motors assigned separately. Each of the four fingers will have 5 motors assigned to it in total. Forward and back for all 3 joints, sideways wag motor at base of finger, axial rotation motor at base of finger too. So actually 3 motors are assigned to the joint at the base of the finger alone which is wild but needed IMO. How about the thumb? Any specifics defined yet for how you'll be approaching the 'opposable thumb' type motion? Well it's the same bone structure as the human hand and will use the same muscle attachment points as the human hand. 4 motors in total will handle just the base of the thumb alone due to its complexity. Attached is a photo of the 4 muscle strings attachment points. >This should afford you some volume for sound-deadening shrouding. true. I'll consider this. I'm not sure shrouding would sound deaden significantly. I imagine like 5-9% sound reduction is max you can expect from sound deadening shrouding but someone double check me on this. It's my guess. >Any plans yet for cooling them? What about cooling in general, BTW? cooling in general : >>32044 >>32045 >>32046 >>32047 The motor and components will be thermally interfacing with the water cooling copper pipe lines by way of using solder wick braid thermal silicone glued to components and motors and then run that braid over to the copper cooling pipes and thermal siliconed onto that. This way the heat can travel along the solder wick braid and into the cooling pipe and be carried away by the water into the cooling systems where it is dealt with. >You were discussing these thin & lightweight spring 'wires' earlier : (cf. >>36662). What about the idea of sliding your tubes down into a larger-diameter one of these, then applying a thin bead of silicone or some other fixant (epoxy?) to rigidize these Bowden cables for you? good idea. Yes I do plan to fall back onto that or something similar. My main concern is that my tubing I want no more than like 1.3mm in diameter so it can fit into fingers without being seen under the skin. So the metal coiling around the tubing to reinforce the tubing from the outside must be a very snug fit onto the tubing and thin metal wire used. I'm not sure I can find exact correct dimensions tension spring like you mentioned that is small enough and a snug fit. So I might have to MAKE this part by hand wrapping wire onto the tubing snugly. I think I can even put the tubing into a drill and hold the wire and let it wrap that way so its more automated. That's how I think springs are made to begin with. So basically a custom spring sleeve may be needed for this.

Chobitsu 02/23/2025 (Sun) 04:36:33 No.37160

>>37142 Got it! Thanks Anon. I feel this will be one of the most-amazing prototypical robowaifus of all if you simply don't quit until you succeed! Good going, Artbyrobot. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 03/01/2025 (Sat) 07:08:36 No.37224

Disaster has struck: In testing recently, I had some VERY bad news: I don't think the spring extension idea is going to work. The amount of force required to unravel the Archimedes pulley system when working against all the friction in that system, the friction in the winch in place pulley, all the friction in the teflon tubing runs, and the magnetic friction of the motor itself while working against the downgearing (since when working in reverse direction it acts as up-gearing) is all working against the spring and I think it's too much to ask of that spring. I can't even really pull by hand - pulling pretty hard like 3-4lb of force it wasn't budging. So this is tragic for my whole approach so far and we have to go back to the drawing board. A proposed massive overhaul solution in next post. Note: The name of the resistance to turning a BLDC motor has while freewheeling (no electric applied to it presently) is called cogging torque, which is caused by the interaction between the permanent magnets and the stator's iron core. This force may seem insignificant but due to my downgearing system, the spring has to deal with it after it has been multiplied 44 times due to the downgearing the spring would be fighting through from reverse direction at the bottom of the pulleys and traveling through what then acts as upgearing when going in reverse direction from spring's end.

Artbyrobot 03/01/2025 (Sat) 07:24:04 No.37226

I think I've solved it! So first, I want real force working on the extension aspect, not some wimpy spring. I already said there's a lot of frictions that extension system has to bust through to work. And I'd hate to have a very strong spring anyways since when grasping, the motor would then be fighting against a strong spring for extension which is a huge inefficiency that works to weaken the grasping action significantly at that point which is bad design frankly. So we want IN DEMAND opposition for the extension rather than a constant opposition of a spring fighting against the grasp attempt of the motor. We also want the motor that does the grasping to actively rotate in reverse direction rather than freewheeling in order to not have to fight it's static friction caused by its magnets which is significant. This means we either have to go with a two motor system - one for grasp direction of the joint and one for extension direction of the same joint (HORRIBLE WORST CASE SCENARIO BUT POSSIBLE IN A PINCH) or we need to go BACK and refute the notion that the motor is unable to operate two separate pulley systems for extension and grasping functions coming from a single motor attached to two pulley downgearing systems. Which would entail the motor turning clockwise to create grasping and counter clockwise to create extension. The problem with such a proposed system is that in theory it was said to be impossible due to the inevitable derailment issues and tension issues that this would invite. I am proposing we tackle those issues it invites head on rather than avoiding them entirely like we were trying to do for quite a while now. It is a VERY tall order to get that to work but that would be the best possible scenario IMO. It is great if we can get it to work since we tap into the full power of a single motor to do both flexion and extension and we then kill two birds with one stone. All the friction issues with the tubing and pulleys is solved by the motor when it reverses directions and actuates the opposing pulley system. We just have to have slack in the line due to the different diameter mismatches of the two different winding directions we face and also have to have that slack pulled taught by some mechanism to prevent slop that causes derailments. I really want to press for that HARD now. But to do that I really have to scrap the winch in place pulley idea basically I think. Well not necessarily - even that I think can be worked out but is higher risk and harder than my current favorite new, novel solution. So we can reattempt winch in place stuff perhaps in the future but I want to set it aside for now. My newest idea is for that first large run-out downgear to be 2:1 and use regular Archimedes pulley system approach but to put that pulley into the torso and have a weight hang off the bottom of it or have a VERY tiny motor attach to the bottom of it that is to place tension onto it regularly to remove all slop. This can be a motor the size of my pinky fingernail perhaps (not sure though). OR a weight. I lean toward using a weight now since that would be easiest I think to pull off. I got the weight idea from studying the cable machine for triceps at the gym the other day. I can have the same type of weights or something similar to those used by gyms. But doesn't have to be adjustable like those but same concept. Granted one downside to this approach is what if the robot is laying down or upside down wouldn't it not have weight able to pull down by gravity then? So to solve this I can have 3 weights perhaps, one for each possible direction: upright robot, upside down robot, laying down robot... actually 2 weights should be fine: laying down and upright. Hmm... well if he's laying on back or stomach the weight would have to pendulum or slide past a central point to the other side of robot on a track. Yeah that should work! So 2 weights I think can do it. If upside down he's screwed we'll say. He won't use fingers in any direction change way until he flips back around upright or sideways if doing a cartwheel or handstand for a bit. That is a fine tradeoff. Right now I'm thinking a straw with lead tube in it as the weight or something like that. Even considering just using a fishing sinker perhaps at the moment. Have to think on this more...

Artbyrobot 03/01/2025 (Sat) 07:27:10 No.37227

Here's the official design drawing of this proposed single motor actuating both forward and reverse directions with two separate Archimedes pulley systems opposing one another. You'll also note that the left hand side of the drawing has a pair of Archimedes 2:1 pulley downgear systems, one for forward and one for reverse directions of motor and these two are going to be very long (16 inches long) and therefore are located in torso. The remaining 16:1 Archimedes pulley downgearing systems will be kept in the forearms near to the finger joints they are actuating as we had planned originally and already have in place. You'll also note the weight that hangs off the bottom of both of the 16" long 2:1 pulley downgear systems that can keep them both taught at all times despite their varying lengths that will always be changing. The weight is able to slide since it has a fishing hook eye above it and on both attachment points to the 2:1 pulley downgear systems so it is always adjusting these 3 fishing hook eyes to always keep tension on both systems freely.

Artbyrobot 03/01/2025 (Sat) 07:30:20 No.37228

Also, I recently stumbled upon a VERY much simplified version of my miniature pulleys. So up to now I've been using 1x3x1mm ball bearings to make tiny pulleys and been variously perfecting this approach but it is still not THAT small and is a bit complex to make and we have to make literally THOUSANDS of these to do the whole robot. That presents a bit of an issue due to the large work that requires. At least until mass manufacture of them comes in one day perhaps. But while DIYing that, it's alot to deal with making SO MANY somewhat challenging to make things. That said, my proposed EVEN MORE miniature and WAY WAY WAY simplified to make pulley is to just use a single fishing hook eye. Literally, that's it. I can use a tiny fishing hook eye and use that as my very first pulley for the 2:1 16" long Archimedes downgearing systems in the torso. This will cut down on size taken dramatically and complexity of its build. It will make the pulley basically failure proof too. The way it will EVENTUALLY fail is by the rope rubbing it enough to cut it in half. But I think the rope would fail before the pulley would fail and so that doesn't matter then. You'd replace them both at once on routine maintenance. No need then to worry about that eventuality. And the ridiculous ease of manufacture of such a simple pulley makes replacing it trivial. I also think that using this just in low load, high speed, low force early pulley downgearing stages is a non-issue since the friction with such a low load on the first downgear or two will be so trivial that the string itself would fail WAY before it would slice through the metal (acting like a saw over time). I think it would take literally MANY years due to the super low friction at these low forces. Now I'll still use the ball bearing style for later stages of downgearing where the loads go way up, but for the first stage or two I think this will work just fine.

Chobitsu 03/01/2025 (Sat) 09:28:26 No.37231

I'll plan on a response to you, Artbyrobot. But its not the right time just now. Stay encouraged, Anon. You'll figure the proper way through this. Cheers.

Artbyrobot 03/14/2025 (Fri) 04:58:24 No.37486

So the idea to move a portion of the pulley system stuff over to the torso is now out because I've been kind of talked out of it so I'm putting that aside for now. Going to actually try to do that stuff within the forearm. Also instead of a fishing sinker I'm going to try to use an elastic cord made for making bracelets for kids. I think that will be enough force just to keep tension on the line that is being unreeled. Doesn't have to be much I don't think. I'm also considering just hand testing my pulley systems for now. So disconnecting them from the motor shaft entirely so I can just do testing to see how things feel and can observe things easier way quicker and with less hassle. And when I do go to test by way of motor, I'm just going to use a brushed motor and connect a lab power supply by hand with alligator clips so I can avoid messing around with microcontrollers and firmware and custom motor controllers entirely which is a bunch of rabbit holes I want to avoid as I just secure testing my pulley designs for now. I don't want to get hung up in a year or two of electronics stuff just so I can test my pulleys which would be so stupid and annoying. I need to get my testing iterations done as soon as possible without distractions and longer delays. Once I am happy with the pulley's performance and they pass all my tests and everything seems solid then we'll go ahead and connect it back up to the BLDC motor and then will worry about the custom microcontroller and custom motor controller and all the firmware or whatever at that time and will be doing that with the confidence of a big win with the pulley systems giving us momentum as we enter into those rabbit holes of electronics.

Chobitsu 03/14/2025 (Fri) 12:31:35 No.37494

>>37486 >So the idea to move a portion of the pulley system stuff over to the torso is now out because I've been kind of talked out of it so I'm putting that aside for now. This arrangement of physical power distribution is in fact one of my longterm goals here. I'm curious what the reasoning was against it. >Going to actually try to do that stuff within the forearm. Also instead of a fishing sinker I'm going to try to use an elastic cord made for making bracelets for kids. I think that will be enough force just to keep tension on the line that is being unreeled. Doesn't have to be much I don't think. Most designs for articulated hands that I've seen move the actuation up into the forearm. While this is an understandable compromise, it still entails a rather-hefty penalty in thrown-weight. >I'm also considering just hand testing my pulley systems for now. So disconnecting them from the motor shaft entirely so I can just do testing to see how things feel and can observe things easier way quicker and with less hassle. Really good idea IMO. Anything you can do to expedite the iterative design process itself should be investigated/reinforced. >And when I do go to test by way of motor, I'm just going to use a brushed motor and connect a lab power supply by hand with alligator clips so I can avoid messing around with microcontrollers and firmware and custom motor controllers entirely which is a bunch of rabbit holes I want to avoid as I just secure testing my pulley designs for now. Again, good idea. >I need to get my testing iterations done as soon as possible without distractions and longer delays. Once I am happy with the pulley's performance and they pass all my tests and everything seems solid then we'll go ahead and connect it back up to the BLDC motor and then will worry about the custom microcontroller and custom motor controller and all the firmware or whatever at that time and will be doing that with the confidence of a big win with the pulley systems giving us momentum as we enter into those rabbit holes of electronics. Maintaining good forward 'momentum' is always good for team morale. Keep moving forward, Artbyrobot!

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 03/14/2025 (Fri) 13:25:25.

Artbyrobot 03/15/2025 (Sat) 03:45:22 No.37514

>>37494 >one of my longterm goals here. I'm curious what the reasoning was against it. well I too want weight centralized in torso to lower moment of inertia issues but the pulleys are not a weighted thing really. its about as light as air. So keeping them out of torso saves room for things that are actually heavy and need space like batteries and motors and cooling systems and power supplies and the main pc etc. >Most designs for articulated hands that I've seen move the actuation up into the forearm. While this is an understandable compromise, it still entails a rather-hefty penalty in thrown-weight. well the less cable run the better since that adds friction losses so that's why they keep it as close to hands as they can. in my case I put motors into biceps and torso but do downgearing near hand as much as I can so that the long cable run is under low torque and low load and so low friction and the friction and torque and load only go up after the downgearing near the hand. Note that if you used metal gears attached to the motors AND put the motors in the torso, the full load, torque, and friction would be going through all the bends of shoulder and elbow and wrist to reach the hands and so would lose a ton to friction and wear out those cable sheaths potentially more quickly so it's not ideal to do that. That's why downgearing in the forearms but motors more centralized near torso makes sense as it reduces thrown weight issues while also eliminates the friction issues of all those turns. A win-win. The only loss is the tedious pulley making process but once a proven design is in place, it should go faster and jigs and whatnot can be made to assembly line style crank them out faster and eventually someone can mass produce mini pulleys for robotics if it catches on and you'd order that from china or w/e for dirt cheap. China is always knocking off American inventor's products, well in this case it would be welcomed for them to do this and make it cheaper. But they would have to see a market for it by lots of people making humanoids with little pulleys for downgearing.

Chobitsu 03/16/2025 (Sun) 00:50:46 No.37530

>>37514 >well I too want weight centralized in torso to lower moment of inertia issues but the pulleys are not a weighted thing really. its about as light as air. So keeping them out of torso saves room for things that are actually heavy and need space like batteries and motors and cooling systems and power supplies and the main pc etc. Ahh, got it. Yes internal volume-management is going to be a critical key to our success in devising great robowaifus. Essentially its a near third (#3); after mass-reduction (#1); then electrical power & management (#2); probably followed in a close fourth by waste heat management (#4). >well the less cable run the better since that adds friction losses so that's why they keep it as close to hands as they can. >Note that if you used metal gears attached to the motors AND put the motors in the torso, the full load, torque, and friction would be going through all the bends of shoulder and elbow and wrist to reach the hands and so would lose a ton to friction and wear out those cable sheaths potentially more quickly so it's not ideal to do that. I think with modern materials science, we can alleviate much of that friction in general. However, the bends are a tough nut to crack AFAICT. I've thought about this exact set of topics for years now, in an attempt to devise an arrangement of the denser components within the central mass zone of our robowaifus. >That's why downgearing in the forearms but motors more centralized near torso makes sense as it reduces thrown weight issues while also eliminates the friction issues of all those turns. A win-win. Sounds like a great idea, Artbyrobot. <---> Hmmm. Well, sticking with a problem is surely the first step to actually solving it! Cheers, Anon.

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 03/16/2025 (Sun) 00:58:44.

Artbyrobot 04/27/2025 (Sun) 03:36:12 No.37889

Update: I bought several sizes of kevlar string to use to replace the PE fishing line particularly in the high tension areas that may face the highest durability challenges. I found it on amazon in many sizes. I just bought one of each size: 0.5mm diameter 50lb test, 0.8mm diameter 100lb test, 1.1mm diameter 200lb test and 1.3mm diameter 300lb test. This is probably a game changer for my project IMO.

Chobitsu 04/27/2025 (Sun) 04:47:37 No.37893

>>37889 Artbyrobot! Good to see you again, mate. :D >kevlar string >This is probably a game changer for my project IMO. This sounds very cool! I'll presume you're going to keep us here on /robowaifu/ up to date with your progress using this new material. Please do! <---> BTW, you may find our new Tensegrity thread : ( >>37672 ) of interest. There are a few similar issues you face as well. Cheers, Anon. :^)

Artbyrobot 04/29/2025 (Tue) 05:29:36 No.37991

After further consideration, I'm scrapping using the elastic cord for a bracelet idea (as a tension spring for the winch in place pulley). The point of that was to use as little space as possible but I just don't trust it. I am not sure what material it is made of and my experience with rubber bands has always been dry rot issues. I am going with 2mm OD tension spring instead. It has to stretch 12.5" and so I'm using a 12.7" strip of it to start. That feels like a snug stretch but does comfortably reach the 12.5" of stretch needed. This brings its stretched total length to 25.2". I bought 3mm ID 4mm OD TPFE tubing to be its guidance tube for this. That arrives tomorrow and then I can begin assembly. This 4mm OD guidance tube is a bit bulky and long for the arm IMO so I will relocate it to the torso since if I use this method for other motors these 4mm OD tubes will add up in space taken up fast. The arm can't house them - it's just too much space taken at that point for these. But the torso can house them in the back or sides I think. For now, since the torso is not yet attached, I'm going to place this tube ON the string suspended from my ceiling and treat that string as though it were to torso for now.

Chobitsu 04/29/2025 (Tue) 06:00:23 No.38002

>>37991 My apologies, but I'm not quite able to visualize this idea yet, Artbyrobot. I'm sure once you post pics of your prototyping work displaying it I'll understand it right away! Looking forward to this progress, and to your new Kevlar lines as well. Cheers, Anon. :^)

Artbyrobot 04/30/2025 (Wed) 02:07:03 No.38027

>>38002 Here is the tension spring in question from the previous post. I want this spring inside the tubing though which is not shown in the drawing of it.

Chobitsu 04/30/2025 (Wed) 03:51:36 No.38032

>>38027 OK, I think I understand. So you mean to emplace springs themselves within the tubes?

Artbyrobot 05/01/2025 (Thu) 04:59:12 No.38083

>>38032 correct

Artbyrobot 05/10/2025 (Sat) 09:15:02 No.38340

>>38032 Good news: I had mentioned before I was planning to use 2mm OD tension spring for the winch in place pulley tension solution but once I got the 3mm ID 4mm OD PTFE tubing to go over the spring, I saw that the 4mm was just WAY too big once you multiply that out to 300 motors. 300 of 4mm OD tubing starts to take up a massive area at that point and I struggled with that. I MUST be miserly on space taken up by parts to get all the crap I need to fit in there to fit in there! Anyways, I fortunately discovered that you can buy tension spring down to 1mm in OD! I was unaware of this before now! So I ordered 1mm OD tension spring and 1.5mm OD tension spring to test and see what seems best. If the 1mm OD spring seems reliable to me, I'll go with it. Anyways, since the spring is now smaller, I can use also a smaller PTFE tubing to house the spring so I ordered uxcell PTFE Tubing 1.8mm ID x 2.2mm OD off amazon. 2.2mm OD tubing compared to 4mm tubing is SHOCKINGLY smaller when you look at them. So it will be WAY more space efficient now. Here's my updated tension spring concept drawing:

Chobitsu 05/10/2025 (Sat) 09:42:13 No.38341

>>38340 Great! Sounds like really good news, Artbyrobot. I was curious how you were planning to 'load' the tubes with these springs & kevlar strands? I was thinking something like a very thin spring-steel rod of sorts that you could push through, then hook the string+spring to the end of the now-protruding rod, then pull the whole thing back down the tube together. Make sense, Anon?

Artbyrobot 05/10/2025 (Sat) 10:40:06 No.38342

>>38341 Thanks. The kevlar will only be for the thicker strings doing heavy work, not for stuff with low forces light work like this and part of that is because kevlar didn't have very fine string options when I shopped (if someone can find very fine kevlar thread let me know). But to your question, I don't think I"ll need any mechanism to do the threading of hte tube you can just push it in there and let gravity do the rest. I have had no issues threading the tubing even going against gravity. You just push the string in a little at a time from one end and it just slides effortlessly through the tubing till it reaches the other side. Part of this is surely the low friction and relatively short distance we are trying to send string through. If we wanted to push string through 40 feet of tubing, THEN something like what you said would be necessary due the higher friction that the longer length of tubing would bring to the table. Pushing from one end would not work anymore in such case. But we are just doing shorter runs under 2' which seems to not be an issue.

Chobitsu 05/10/2025 (Sat) 14:39:57 No.38346

>>38342 Got it. Completely makes sense. Thanks for the updates, Anon. Godspeed to you. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 05/22/2025 (Thu) 21:12:37 No.38674

Ok so I currently have an order for 0.2x1x1000mm tension springs stuck in customs for weeks and placed another order just today for the same in hopes it goes through faster. But at $9 for a single spring that is 3ft long, I am feeling RIPPED OFF on price. It is bullcrap. All relating to the tariff nonsense. So I decided today to pivot and just roll with the elastic band in place of tension spring. It's a jewelry making elastic band I bought some time ago in a roll. WAY cheaper at $0.03 for 3ft instead of $9 for 3ft. That's 99.7% off! Talk about a discount! The issue I had before when I looked into this option was the tie-off point. I would need a way to tie PE fishing line to the end of the elastic band without the tie point being bulky. Well I figured out a way to do it without any bulk at all! See I want this to fit into my 1.8mm ID PTFE tubing to keep size down. My solution was to just glue the fishing line lengthwise directly to the elastic band. No knot at all. No turns at all. Just literally lay it on top and glue it down flush. I figured about 6mm length of joint would be solid. And I did this on both sides with my PE fishing line. I used 0.08mm 6lb test braided PE fishing line for this. So now I have two fishing line segments coming off the end of it for double the strength of this connection. But I only wanted one piece of fishing line to go the distance to attach to the motor end so I twisted the pair of fishing line segments together and glued the twisted pair with 401 glue then cut one of the two away leaving just one of the pair to go the distance to the winch in place pulley that this is all supposed to tension for me. I will use this string and elastic band method for now as I wait on springs and stick with this method for at least this first motor actuator setup for now. If the elastic bands don't last, we'll upgrade to the metal springs later on during maintenance or w/e. Note: the total length of the elastic band I am using for this is 2ft and it stretches to 3ft snugly without too much force. I'm just going by feel and instinct for this measurement. If I were to go 1ft with 1ft of stretch, the stretch is more intense and the pull is harder. But I don't think I need much pull for just tensioning the winch in place pulley and I also think the more tension you place the more wear and tear on the elastic band which will shorten its lifespan. So playing it conservatively with the 2ft length selection for now. Note: to apply the 401 glue I used an exacto knife handle with a sewing needle in place of the xacto knife blade and the tip of the sewing needle acts as my precision glue applicator.

Chobitsu 05/22/2025 (Thu) 21:21:12 No.38676

>>38674 Improvise. Adapt. Overcome. That's the spirit, Artbyrobot! Glad you managed to break the logjam on your delay. Looking forward to your progress with this. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 06/13/2025 (Fri) 17:35:48 No.39205

Sometimes to get the braided PE fishing line threaded through the fine PTFE tubing can be tricky, so I came up with a neat device to assist in this. I will be making a threading tool based on a needle threader tool I've been using. It's basically a wire folded in half that you shove through a needle eye and then stick your string into its end and then pull it back through the needle eye. In my use case, I'm creating a custom one of these threading tools that will feed through my entire length of tubing till its folded end comes out the other side and I can thread my string through that end and then draw it back, bringing the string through the tubing with it. I just ordered some 40ga copper and stainless steel wire to use to make this device in question. I'll see which metal is best. Gonna try the copper first I think.

Chobitsu 06/14/2025 (Sat) 00:28:02 No.39215

>>39205 Great idea, Artbyrobot! Good luck with your tool-construction effort here. Please keep us all up to date with your progress, Anon. Cheers. :^)

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