I have two great breakthroughs to announce.
First, it suddenly occurred to me that I don't have to print onto PCB transfer paper and then transfer that over to the copper clad Pyralux flat flex PCB but instead I can simply tape the copper clad Pyralux flat flex PCB directly onto my envelope and feed that through my laser printer directly. See, I previously ruled this out when originally researching this stuff because I was planning to use FR-4 PCB which is not flexible nor flat enough to feed through a printer directly. However, now that I am using flat and flexible blank PCB there's no reason not to feed it straight into my laser printer that I'm aware of. Now I haven't tested this but if it works it's a game changer. Will make DIY PCBs that much faster and more streamlined to make!
Next, on the subject of attaching the 6 solder wick braids to the mosfets, I was struggling going through the various methods whereby I can tightly clamp it to the mosfet drain and add electrical isolation barrier to the connection point. It's very tight spacing and has to be a very tiny clamping mechanism and the clamp from most directions would have things getting in the way of any clamp design I visualized. It was a nightmare problem IMO. However, my solution I came up with today is game changing: I will simply solder the braids directly to the mosfet drain! This will maximize conductivity off the drain into the braids due to the metal on metal direct connection and eliminate all need for any kind of clamping at all there. Unfortunately, this will make these braids live electrically, but it occurred to me that this is not a big deal. I will simply wrap them in fiberglass window screen to allow them to have great airflow and breath-ability for emissivity of the heat they will be wicking off the mosfet drain and the fiberglass window screen will also act as a physical barrier to them contacting other live metal parts. Window screen is also non-conductive and has good abrasion resistance IMO. I don't anticipate these short wire braid runs to have much contact with anything as they are going to be making short runs from the motor to the water cooling pipe anyways and the exoskeleton mesh that holds up the rubber skin will create spacing and cushion contact bumping or w/e coming from the outside. All in all I think this is a safe solution for the most part and we'll have fuses anyways to prevent major problems in the low risk event of two neighboring live groups of solder wick braid breaking out of their window screen and contacting eachother thereby shorting the circuit. I just see this as highly unlikely but it's covered by the fuse in any case.
That all having been said, the electrical isolation barrier stage we now can place at the location where these solder wick braid ends attach to the copper liquid cooling pipe. There at that attachment point I'll put my electrically isolating thermal tape between the solder wick braid and the pipe and clamp things down by tightly wrapping it in electrical tape at the connection point. This is trivial to achieve compared to doing this at the location of the mosfet drain. So we kicked the electrical isolation and clamping problem further downstream than the mosfet drain connection point in order to make the problem a piece of cake.
Note: chatgpt said I should tin the braided copper solder wick to prevent oxidization of it which would potentially lower its emissivity. Not sure I agree on this though but I may do it just to be safe we'll see. I'd use MG Chemicals Liquid Tin to do this which I already have on hand for tinning circuit boards.