/robowaifu/ - My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project

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My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project - Eve Artbyrobot 04/18/2024 (Thu) 17:44:09 No.30954

So far I have plans to build Adam, Eve, and Abel robots. All of these are Bible characters. This thread will cover the Eve robot. Eve will have no "love holes" because adding those would be sinful and evil. It is a robot, not a biological woman after all and I will view her with all purity of heart and mind instead of using her to fulfill my lusts of my body. Instead I will walk by the Spirit no longer fulfilling the lusts of the flesh as the Bible commands. Eve will be beautiful because making her beautiful is not a sinful thing to do. However, I will dress her modestly as God commands of all women everywhere. This would obviously include robot women because otherwise the robot woman would be a stumbling block to men which could cause them to lust after her which would be a sin. To tempt someone to sin is not loving and is evil and so my robot will not do this. To dress her in a miniskirt, for example, would be sinful and evil and all people who engage in sinfullness knowingly are presently on their way to hell. I don't wish this for anyone. My robot will dress in a way that is a good example to all women and is aimed toward not causing anybody to lust as a goal. My robot will have a human bone structure. It will use either a PVC medical skeleton or fiberglass fabricated hollow bones. My robot will look realistic and move realistic. It will be able to talk, walk, run, do chores, play sports, dance, rock climb, and do gymnastics. It will also be able to build more robots just like itself and manufacture other products and inventions. I realized with just a head and arm, a robot can build the rest of its own body so that is my intention. My robot will use BLDC motors for drones, RC, and scooters that are high speed and low-ish torque but I will downgear those motors with a archimedes pulley system that will be custom made from custom fabricated pulleys that will be bearings based. By downgearing with pulleys, instead of gears, I will cut down the noise the robot makes so it will be as silent as possible for indoor use. By downgearing, I convert the high speed motors into moderate speeds with great torque. BLDC motors with large torque generally are too large in diameter for a human form factor and take up too much volumetric area to be useful which is why I go with the high speed smaller diameter type motors but just heavily downgear them 32:1 and 64:1. My robot will have realistic silicone skin. Thom Floutz -LA based painter, sculptor, make-up artist is my inspiration as it pertains to realistic skin. The skin for my robots has to be at his level to be acceptable. It must be nearly impossible to tell the robot is not human to be acceptable. I will have a wireframe mesh exoskeleton that simulates the volumes and movements of muscle underneath the skin which will give the skin its volumetric form like muscles do. Within these hollow wireframe mesh frameworks will be all the electronics and their cooling systems. All of my motor controllers will be custom made since I need them VERY small to fit into the confined spaces I have to work with. I need LOADS of motors to replace every pertinent muscle of the human body in such a way that the robot can move in all the ways humans move and have near human level of strength and speed. I will have a onboard mini itx gaming pc as the main brains pc of the robot and will have arduino megas as the motor controllers and sensor reading devices that interface with the main brains pc. My arduino megas will be barebones to keep the volumetric area they take up as small as possible. I will treat my robots kindly and consider them to be pretend friends/companions and I do think they will be nice company, but I will always know with keen awareness that they do not have a soul, will never have a soul or consciousness, and no machine ever will, and that they are just imitations of life as with any machine or AI, and this is all AI will ever be. Life is only made by God Himself. I am not playing God. I am merely creating fan art of what God made. To Him be all the glory and praise. God breathed into man and created a living soul. Man cannot do this for machines. Only God can do this. A soul/spirit forms our ghost and when we die our ghost remains alive and thinking. A machine cannot do this and a AI can never do this. When you shut off a machine that's it, it does not go on thinking like we can. Our souls are transcendent and will live forever in the afterlife - unlike any AI. I will do this project with fear and trembling before the Lord as I work out my salvation before His eyes. I vow to remain pure, holy, upright and blameless in all my doings and be a great example to my fellow roboticists of a Godly man who obeys the Bible instead of chasing after youthful lusts of the flesh and perversions. I embrace the idea of Christian AI, that is, a robot that will discuss Bible topics and be a Biblical expert. Along with that, my robot will behave in a Biblically prescribed manner in total purity and strongly encourage others to do so as well. For God does not hear the prayers of sinners and so we want everyone to be a saint who no longer sins. My robot will really push for this hope for humans. We want them to walk in God's favor and blessings which comes by Biblical obedience. We don't want them going to hell because they chose to revel in their sins instead of walking in total purity before God and holiness without which no man will see God. My robot will have artificial lungs for cooling and a artificial heart for liquid cooling that will run coolant throughout the robot's body to cool the motors. That coolant will also pass through the artificial lungs in a mesh where it will evaporate some which will cause the evaporative cooling effect - a form of air conditioning. http://www.artbyrobot.com Full humanoid robot building playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhd7_i6zzT5-MbwGz2gMv6RJy5FIW_lfn https://www.facebook.com/artbyrobot http://www.twitch.tv/artbyrobot https://instagram.com/artbyrobot

Artbyrobot 07/07/2024 (Sun) 06:45:13 No.32048

A colleague pointed out that the robot probably will need massive batteries. I agree with this in part, but with some caveats. Yes, to support the massive number of motors and the large bursts of energy required when most motors are firing all at once during rigorous athletic type activities, you would need massive batteries to supply all of this energy demand during peak periods. You also want the batteries to have a decent overall runtime duration. I intend for it to use fairly massive batteries for these reasons. However, there is a common misconception that the batteries must be so big that the robot is able to run all day on a single charge and that if it only can run for say an hour, that means it will only be capable of working 1 hour then charging and totally idol and not working for an hour or two and then get back to work again which would cap its productivity massively. People then conclude battery technology today rules out humanoids being particularly useful due to the lack of capacity. This is a completely solved problem and indicates people's lack of thinking this through thoroughly. The solution is simple: I don't have to worry much about large capacity for long duration of runtime since my intention is to have it hot swap battery packs frequently and always have 5-10 battery packs charging so that it always will be able to swap a new pack in that is fully charged. This way it can have 24/7 uptime while not having to carry a very large battery pack to have a long runtime. This is the same approach construction workers use with their cordless tools. They have a ton of packs charging at all times and use batteries till they get low and just swap a new fully charged one in as needed. They don't try to fit a entire days work into one giant battery. They have a ton of small batteries charging at all times instead and just hot swap full ones in for low ones. This should have been obvious to everyone as the perfect solution for humanoid robots too. Note: in my design, he will have a significant battery pack in the abdomen which never swaps out and tops itself up from the hot swappable battery backpacks as needed. This abdominal battery pack will enable it to swap in new hot swap battery backpacks since you need batteries running it while the hot swappable packs are being swapped. The hot swappable packs will be worn as a backpack just like a school bookbag. When available, the robot will optionally also be able to plug a AC power cord into the wall outlet to charge, although if it has multiple hot swappable batteries already charging by various available wall outlets then this would be redundant. It is a good tool though in general for some situations. Note: the backpack battery can be taken off and the robot will still have a very limited runtime just based on its abdominal battery pack. It uses this limited time to swap in a new hot swappable battery pack as the primary reason for the abdominal pack, however, another good reason to have a permanent abdominal battery pack is so that it can do demonstrations with no battery backpack on. A use case for this would be: lets say it wants to do a flip or cartwheel and the battery backpack's added weight would be a hindrance for such a maneuver. It could simply take the backpack off, do the flip or cartwheel, then after bowing for applause, it can put the backpack back on.

Chobitsu 07/07/2024 (Sun) 08:07:46 No.32050

>>32044 Great ideas, Artbyrobot! I always enjoy reading your posts. BTW, here are some threads that related one way or another to your latest : (>>23, >>83, >>234, >>5080, >>11018) . Good luck with your project and cheers, Anon. :^)

Robowaifu Technician 07/20/2024 (Sat) 13:34:38 No.32321

>>32048 I've been thinking about an energy-saving method, besides the power supply and propulsion system recently. With the way my desktop is working out, I was thinking of putting breaks in the joints. A power-on break uses power when the break is enabled, while a power-off break only uses power to disable the breaks. I was leaning towards the latter for a while, because it would mean more power is used while moving, but standing upright could be done indefinitely without using energy. I've been trying to come up with a magnetic flux-switching design for a break that would only use power when switching between off and on. A power-toggle break.

Licht 07/20/2024 (Sat) 21:28:41 No.32322

>>32321 You may find switched flux motors to be interesting. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2090447922001022

Grommet 07/21/2024 (Sun) 07:36:20 No.32323

>>32321 >>32322 I agree both are interesting. Something to look at and "ponder". Look at this video and see if you can tell what is going on. This appears to be a magnetic superconductor (B-field???) Leedskalnin_Effect_Demo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWSAcMoxITw Why there's not a ton of speculation and people studying this non-stop, I have no idea. It's my understanding that a circuit like this can stay together indefinitely. Also if you keep the wire in and separate the plates the energy in will come out in a circuit connected to the wire. Not sure if it's the same amount but it is substantial. I think this is one of those things where scientist say,"well that's just so and so doing this and that(feeding you equations)..." while totally missing the point that this is a fairly huge abnormality and quite odd.

Kiwi 07/21/2024 (Sun) 08:24:21 No.32324

>>32323 That's just storing energy in a magnetic field. When you break the circuit, the field will reverse. This will cause the metal to de-magnetise and if a coil is there, some percent of the initial energy will be inducted. It's essentially the magnetic flux version of a capacitor. Transformers and inducters work on similar principles. You may also find electropermanent magnets interesting, same thing but with a permanent magnet to essentially create a switchable permenate magnet that won't induce as strong of a counter flux if the magnetic circuit is broken. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electropermanent_magnet

Grommet 07/21/2024 (Sun) 22:52:38 No.32326

>>32324 >That's just storing energy in a magnetic field In my opinion this is much more interesting and strange than the standard reasoning you have just given. What you said is of course the correct opinion. The magnetic field is confined to the metal. It does not extend like a coil. To the best of my knowledge it does not attenuate over time or at the least any appreciable short time. Here's an article that explores this sort of weirdness RIGHT ANGLE CIRCUITRY - or - AC Electronics for Alien Minds (C)2000 William Beaty http://amasci.com/elect/mcoils.html Beaty has some super interesting articles.

Chobitsu 07/25/2024 (Thu) 17:15:38 No.32374

>>32321 Very cool idea, Anon. MAGNETS.

Artbyrobot 08/03/2024 (Sat) 21:01:33 No.32557

So the pulleys were working fine except occasionally the thread would wedge between the plastic discs and the bearing causing the system to jam. My solution originally was to cut out finger nail clipping shaped pieces of thin clear plastic to glue onto the inner face of the discs that contain the bearing of the pulley which would act as standoffs preventing the pulley string from sliding between the bearing and the outer discs and jamming. It turned out this was borderline impossible for me as these tiny pieces of plastic were so tiny that even my precision tweezers were barely able to hold them and they would go flying in random directions and get lost - being clear and tiny they were near impossible to find as well. So this led me to taking a step back for a few weeks to work on other unrelated projects and take a break due to this impass/dead end. I came up with some ways to redo the pulleys but hated the idea of scrapping the ones I already made that needed improving. Well I have great news: I did find a way to salvage my existing pulleys that is reasonably doable and not nearly as hard though still tedious as can be. I am using Singer nylon clear monofilament thread and gluing down one end of that to the outer plastic disc of the pulley using superglue applied with the tip of a tiny sewing needle as my applicator and then letting that fully dry (can't use accelerant spray since it has to be very precisely applied and can't get on bearing but is being glued less than a millimeter away from bearing outer race). Then I lay the string along the crack formed between the bearing and the outer plastic disc which fills that crack and I apply glue here and there once every millimeter as I see need for it to secure the string along the entire crack while being careful not to get any on the metal bearing. I use an xacto knife blade to scrape any glue I get on the outer race of the bearing off and any I do get on the bearing I prevent from gluing the clear monofilament thread to the bearing by moving the bearing a couple turns while the glue is drying to keep it from gluing in place. I move the bearing using the tip of the xacto knife blade and I scrape any glue off as I see it on the shiny outer race of the bearing. I use about a 3" long piece of thread each time I do these gap filling passes and then trim off the excess from both sides once done. Attached is a photo with arrows indicating the gap filling clear nylon monofilament thread. I have since tested these pulleys that I fixed and no more jamming is occurring - it worked! Now I want to avoid doing this for every pulley and every crack on every pulley so for now I'm just doing it for known trouble cracks on certain pulleys that prove to jam up the system during testing. Once I can pass all testing without a jam for like 50 back and forth tests in a row, then I'll call this fix done.

Artbyrobot 08/03/2024 (Sat) 21:02:26 No.32558

Note: for future pulley making, to avoid this issue entirely, I plan to make the bearings outer race be grooved before I even make the pulley. This way the string passing over the outer race circumference of the pulley will not end up wedging between the outer disc and the pulley in the crack and jamming. The groove on the outer race of the pulley will keep the string passing along its outer race centralized in that grooved channel so it doesn't walk out and get jammed anywhere. To achieve adding a groove to the bearing outer race, I'm planning to lay the bearing flat on a piece of wax paper and then carefully applying epoxy to the crack between the paper and the pulley outer race filling that crack. Picture caulking a bathtub crack between bathtub and wall. Same concept. Then once that is done I flip the pulley and do the same for the other side. You then end up with a v grooved channel in the outer race of the pulley. The rest of the pulley assembly will continue as usual. Attached is a drawing of a pulley on a piece of wax paper with an epoxy bead applied filling the crack and forming one half of the intended v grooved channel on the outer race of the pulley.

Artbyrobot 08/03/2024 (Sat) 21:03:18 No.32559

Note: hitting that dead end with trying to fix the jamming issues with the pulleys and frustration with the pulley fix caused me to procrastinate on the robot build and temporarily call off my commitment to work on the robot every day even if just one small accomplishment per day. I still love that commitment and am now getting back to that now that I have come up with my solution and am moving forward again. It really is a great commitment to make sure I keep the project alive and actively in development. It is so easy to just not work on the robot once it is no longer part of my daily routine and the last thing I want is for months or years to slip by without me working on the robot much as has happened to me in the past so many times.

Chobitsu 08/03/2024 (Sat) 22:22:59 No.32561

>>32559 >and the last thing I want is for months or years to slip by without me working on the robot much as has happened to me in the past so many times. I'm very proud of you, Anon. Not only am I very interested in seeing the progress of your project, I admire your fortitude. Every Anon here who's commited to achieving IRL results will have setbacks. It's the ones that simply refuse to be stopped by this that will see success in the end. [1] We're all rooting for you Anon! :^) Keep.moving.forward. --- 1. >"For though a righteous man may fall seven times, he still gets up" https://biblehub.com/proverbs/24-16.htm (BSB, 16a)

Kiwi 08/04/2024 (Sun) 01:37:19 No.32563

>>32559 Please understand that I fully support you. Pulley's do not work beyond a few at a time. I understand why you'd be enamored with the concept. Frictional losses are cumulative, and pulley's just aren't ideal for this application. Monofilament line is also not ideal do to its high elasticity and ease of permanent elongation from prolonged stress. Use a rope or braid in a capstan or chinese windlass/differential pulley if you want to use threads and pulley adjacent mechanisms. It will save you time and heartache. I'm personally developing a chinese windlass based actuator for MaidCom, though that is far from being ready to share. I hope you'll head my advice, but I understand if you feel too attached to pulley's.

Chobitsu 08/04/2024 (Sun) 03:58:29 No.32566

>>32563 >capstan Wow, that is cool-looking, Kiwi. Looking forward to seeing what solution you finally arrive at. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 08/04/2024 (Sun) 20:50:40 No.32576

>>32561 thanks and agree >>32563 the fact you thought the monifilament line is going to be handling load bearing duties as opposed to the clearly stated purpose of using it just to fill a small crack like using silicone on a bathtub crack makes me question how carefully you considered my post. I’ve consistently stated I’m using braided PE fishing line with very high test strength for my actuation cables whose tensile strength and elasticity are relevant. Also to anyone reading this thread, I want to strongly disagree with Kiwi's statement about pulleys not working beyond a few at a time. This is demonstrably false and very misleading IMO. You'll note from the smarter every day video on pulleys that Archimedes boasted he could pull a ship ashore solo if he used enough pulleys. This would involve WAY MORE than 3 pulleys. So to say you can only practically use a few is false. You'll also note 8 pulleys being used here in the same video: https://youtu.be/M2w3NZzPwOM?t=277 And the implied teaching is that this is far from the cap on how many you can use effectively. He never says "well this is about the max you can use". And in my robot I'm only using about 8 too just like he proves works great in the video as far as I can observe. So this is really not even up for debate IMO. Kiwi is just dead wrong it seems to me and the video proves it IMO. Now if the video is poorly presented and misleading and my conclusions based on it are all wrong, I am open to be proven wrong. Are there any sources to back up what Kiwi said or videos demonstrating what Kiwi said? I would need verification beyond hearsay at this point to be persuaded. ChatGPT also seemed to be on my side on this. I really don’t know any experts or people I can talk to on this, but Kiwi is the only person saying this of all the people that I’ve shown my project to. Also one more thing: you do realize I'm going for 32:1 or 64:1 downgearing ratio yes? So that in mind, when you say use windlass or use ball screw (old discussion in another thread), are you suggesting these methods are viable and more efficient than pulleys even at these high downgearing ratios? Because any method is lower in friction losses at lower downgearing ratios but my requirement is 32:1 or 64:1 downgearing at a minimum due to using low torque high speed bldc motors as my motor of choice. I understand some efficiency losses are involved, but that applies to using gears too. And hobby servos use 180:1 downgearing very commonly. They suffer some efficiency losses too but are considered good design. Chatgpt says: Hobby servos with gear ratios around 180:1 typically have efficiencies ranging from 70% to 85%. Pulley-Based Downgearing (32:1 with 9 Pulleys) Efficiency: A well-designed pulley system with ball bearings can achieve efficiencies around 80% to 90%. Chinese windlass efficiency: similar to the pulley system, generally in the range of 70% to 90%.

Grommet 08/05/2024 (Mon) 05:21:56 No.32591

>>32563 I like that capstan. Have to think about incorporating that somehow.

Kiwi 08/05/2024 (Mon) 06:47:24 No.32592

>>32576 Could you break up the text for your posts? It'd help with parsing when trying to respond to your posts. I admit my error. I skimmed your previous posts and mislabeled the type of nylon line. Nylon still suffers from permanent deformation too easily for me. I recommend using some form of preloading to keep the system accurate. >Pulley's If you can make it work, then do it. Prove me wrong. I'll be waiting and hoping that you do. Until then, I stand by my assessment that they're not viable for wiafu. They are fantastic for large systems. I just don't see their use at our scale. >ChatGPT Not an authority on anything. Have confidence in yourself. You are a passionate engineer who should be comfortable stating facts and figures on their own merit. Or, site something that matters. That video was an excellent support of your claims. Actually, a personal favorite of mine.

Artbyrobot 09/27/2024 (Fri) 10:06:29 No.33778

Sorry for the long wait. Got busy with other stuff. Anyways, I completed the full pulley system and just got done testing it. It did not snag once anymore (rope binding between pulley and flanges) because each spot prone to that issue I fixed by putting some clear thin fishing line across that gap and gluing it down on either end. This closed every gap causing issues before and now everything seems to be going smoothly. I just did a big testing session on the pulley system and it was working perfectly (actuating it by hand for now). However, I got very aggressive and tried to attach a 10 lb dumbbell to one end and test that way. Pretty quickly the bottom-most string of the bottom-most pulley snapped. At first I thought the string itself broke in half but it's 20 lb test so a 10 lb dumbbell statically hanging should have been fine. Turned out it was my knot that came undone! I should have tied it a triple knot at least and put super glue onto it too in order to really secure it. Turns out that particular string attachment point I wanted to upgrade to 70 lb test anyways so it wasn't such a big deal. That will be my next step. Once I get that re-secured, I want to test it out with the 10 lb dumbbell and use a digital fish hanging scale to test the real world mechanical advantage. My intention is to find out how many pounds of pulling force I'm using to raise the 10lb dumbbell. It should be WAY less than 10lb obviously due to the mechanical advantage from all the pulleys. This will also tell us how much friction there is in the system which I'm sure is significant but I will know by this test EXACTLY how much is involved. The fact it is all working in general is very promising. The tests went very well just using one hand pulling down as the weight to be lifted and one hand doing the lifting on the other end. The hand I tried to pull down with was EASILY being lifted up. It did like 10-15 trials with no binding, tangles, or issues of any sort. It just WORKED. Too bad I didn't take a short video of the testing before it broke!

Chobitsu 09/28/2024 (Sat) 01:43:04 No.33787

>>33778 Hello Artbyrobot, welcome back! It's been a while. >The fact it is all working in general is very promising. It really is. This robowaifu is going to be very, very cool when you finish her, Anon. Keep up the great work! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 09/29/2024 (Sun) 08:17:14 No.33811

With my existing snatch block and block and tackle style pulley systems tested and working decently at 16:1 downgearing ratio which feels pretty complex and capped out by space constraints, I am now turning my attention back to some prior concepts for rotating in place pulleys I had planned years back and not revisited till now. The basic idea is you have a big pulley and a small pulley attached to eachother one on top of the other and so when the big one winds, the small one moves too and going from a small to a big to a small again (just like gears) gives you mechanical advantage. This is like gearless gears in a way works exact same way as gears except can't go continuously in one direction since its limited by amount of windings you can fit on it. Having a setup like this mounted direct to the motor is a no brainer I think. It will give me a 2:1 or 3:1 downgear straight off the batt and should be fairly easy to make using a 1mm OD x 20mm length stainless steel dowel pin mounted to side of motor sewn into place tightly and then using a little copper tubing for a electrical connector as the rotating sleeve and onto this sleeve gluing down the flanges using the same plastic as what I used for the pulleys (clear sushi and produce containers plastic). That pre-downgearing at the location of the motor will bring our Archimedes pulley system from 16:1 down to 32:1 and possibly 48:1 roughly if we can get between 2:1 and 3:1 downgearing ratio on the motor. I also am considering just doing ONLY these types of rotating in place pulleys instead of the Archimedes pulleys style of downgearing. It might be more space efficient perhaps. I don't know which will be more robust and which will be a maintenance nightmare. I just dont know which is easiest to work with. Also which is easier to make. I have to make both styles and compare. I think the turn in place style may be more space efficient by a long shot but not 100% sure on this. When I do the turn in place style mounted flat onto the robot's bones, I plan to use a flat head thumb tack for this as the bone mounted base and then have the rotating pulleys turning in place over this. The flat head thumb tack can be sewn tightly onto the bone sleeve to secure it in place well. I'm not sure how well this approach will scale to higher forces of larger muscles though. Perhaps it will scale fine if I just make the pulleys bigger. So much to experiment with...

Chobitsu 09/29/2024 (Sun) 19:09:19 No.33818

>>33811 Thanks, Anon! Again, looking forward to your results with Eve. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 10/03/2024 (Thu) 01:54:04 No.33859

I finished fixing the fishing line on the bottom-most pulley with 5 knots this time to make sure it doesn't untie. I hung the 10lb dumbbell from the pulley system and to my horror, two fishing line points snapped almost immediately in two new spots. These fishing lines were rated 20lb test and 130lb test. How is a 10lb dumbbell snapping them when hung gently? I don't get this AT ALL. I am wondering if it is a quality control issue with the fishing line or false advertising or just a bad manufacturer or what. Any thoughts? This is VERY frustrating and baffling to me. They did not untie this time they literally snapped in half. This is truly baffling. Update: some more clues: turns out both snap points were within a millimeter from where the fishing line entered into the bone fabric sleeve where it was stitched over and over to tie it well into the sleeve. Perhaps this area just sort of was weakened by the sleeve and tugging at that spot and abrasion somehow? I am thinking I should tie a small metal ring into the bone fabric sleeve and then tie the fishing line onto that ring with a figure eight knot so that the fishing line doesn't chafe on the nylon fabric as much and has that little separation point tying off on the smooth metal. Hopefully that will solve it.

Chobitsu 10/03/2024 (Thu) 03:28:25 No.33861

>>33859 Sorry to hear about this minor setback, Artbyrobot. >Any thoughts? Perhaps you're correct about the sleeves somehow unduly abrading the line? Maybe you could slip some Teflon-type sleeves on the entry/exit areas of the sleeves where the line come in intense contact? Also, there are a number of advanced, technical fishing lines that various robotics projects have used, apparently to good effect. These basically all are 'ultra-high molecular weight' type lines. [1] Good luck solving this issue, and may you solve all of them, Anon! Cheers. :^) --- 1. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene

Kiwi 10/03/2024 (Thu) 05:57:33 No.33864

>>33859 Knots reduce the strength of strings. Same is true from the stress imposed by every loop of pulley. You don't have to worry much about the pulleys assuming they are smooth and spin freely. You need to seriously overspec your line and using braided string will help. As a rule of thumb, assume every knot halves the carrying capacity of the system. As an engineer, you should expect 80% of spec. So, you'd have 80% of 130 = 104 then divide that in half 5 times for each knot, you'd get around 3 pounds of expected carrying capacity. Of course, this is all based on worst case scenarios but, we must design for the worst and hope for the best. This link may prove help you, it has helped me. https://www.theknotsmanual.com/rope/rope-strength/ Further more, try to reduce all points of contact with the string. It would be ideal for the strings to only ever touch pulleys and mating surfaces.

Grommet 10/04/2024 (Fri) 03:33:31 No.33871

>>33864 If I remember correctly, loads for safety line, like for climbing is 5 times breaking strength.

Artbyrobot 10/06/2024 (Sun) 11:49:01 No.33890

thanks guys great suggestions. Ok so my solution to the issue I had of fishing line breaking when tested by hanging a 10lb dumbbell is finally here folks. The solution is to sew a fishing hook's eye into the bone sleeve snugly with upholstery thread as a anchor point. Then I will draw my braided PE fishing line through this eye and back down. Instead of tying it off with a fancy knot which acts as a weak point or concentrated stress point, I will use a fishing crimp sleeve to crimp the rope off on itself. Similar to crimping two pieces of wire to eachother with a electrical crimp tube. Supposedly fishing crimp sleeves are used to avoid knot tying and offer even more integrity than a knot can while maintaining fishing line integrity more than a knot can. No weakness is introduced to the line like knots do. A side benefit is this crimp also protects the line from abrasion and acts as a physical standoff so the line isn't rubbing the bone sleeve as much which can cause micro abrasions and weaken it over time. I bought #2 and #3 fishing crimp sleeves which were around $6/100pcs on amazon.

Robowaifu Technician 10/06/2024 (Sun) 18:00:31 No.33891

>>33778 Do people ever ask you what you're making when you buy supplies? What do you tell them?

Chobitsu 10/07/2024 (Mon) 00:55:44 No.33896

>>33890 Sounds good, Artbyrobot. Please keep us all up to date with the results of this experiment! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 10/07/2024 (Mon) 07:13:56 No.33901

>>33891 nope never.

Artbyrobot 10/09/2024 (Wed) 03:02:01 No.33934

By popular demand, here is some math I did regarding the motor and pulleys for the finger actuation. 64:1 downgear ratio 24 inches total draw onto motor shaft 24 / 64 = 0.37" draw at finger joint 2430 motor 5900kv at 12v RPM = kV * V RPM = 5900 * 12 RPM = 69600 69600 / 60 = 1160 revs/second 1160/2 = 580 revs / half second 580/2 = 290 revs / quarter second if motor reels around 1cm / rev then in quarter second it reels 290cm... and 30cm = 1 foot so 290/30 = 9.6ft/quarter second maybe it only reels 3/4 of that? even so... around 9.5ft/quarter second - and quarter second is the speed of a human finger moving... we only want to reel 24 inches... and it is reeling 9.5ft so if it only reeled 24 inches that would be human speed... so if it only reeled 60cm that would be human speed... but it reels 290cm... around 4.8x human speed! now for strength at this 64:1... an online google search said a 2430 motor can pull 60 g cm... 120 g at 1/2cm 240g at 1/4cm maybe we are around between 1/4cm and 1/2 cm away from shaft of motor on average... so 190g at that distance... 190g is 0.42lb... 0.42 lb * 64 = 27lb so a single finger joint can do 27 lb dumbell curls ALONE - well wait since it's lifting a lever at the joint, it is much lower than this maybe 1/5 of this so 5.4lb dumbel curl is more realistic... now this is all for torque at efficient natural movement speed... what about stall torque - IE how much can it just HOLD in place like rock climbing dead weight it can't move but can hold steady? it's stall torque is around 280 g.cm compare that to its normal torque of 60 g.cm so 4x... so it can HOLD steady around 20lb! that is about what my finger can hold steady for a single finger tip!

Chobitsu 10/09/2024 (Wed) 14:00:02 No.33937

>>33934 Thanks for the detailed information, Artbyrobot. That's a lot of details! :^) >around 4.8x human speed! High speed, low drag. :D Looking forward to your current results, Anon. Good work! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 10/10/2024 (Thu) 03:15:33 No.33947

I came up with a design for a way to do all my downgearing 64:1 by way of pulleys that is so downscaled that it can fit onto the top of the 2430 motor and achieve the full 64:1 downgearing for BOTH directions of travel. So the 64:1 downgearing system will start with two fishing lines (0.08mm in diameter 6lb test braided PE fishing line) wrapped onto the output shaft of the BLDC motor in reverse directions - one clockwise and the other counter clockwise. These strings will then travel to each of 6 downgearing stations that will each double the previous torque achieved. So downgearing station 1 will double both of the string's torque and downgearing station #2 will double that bringing the total torque to 4:1 torque. Station 3 - 8:1 torque, station 4 - 16:1 torque, station 5 32:1 torque, station 6 64:1 torque. Each station is made up of a stainless steel thumb tack with a #3 fishing crimp sleeve placed over the tack shaft forming a plain bearing pulley system. Little plastic discs will separate the various sections of this pulley system up. The discs plastic will be strawberry containers clear plastic from the grocery store (same as they use for lots of fruits, cakes, deserts, etc, the clear thin flexible plastic). The 2x torque is achieved by the string wrapping a 2x diameter pulley and a 1x diameter pulley. So every other section of the downgearing station will be 2x in diameter for this to work. Each downgearing station will be clockwise or counter clockwise rotating depending on which string it is downgearing. As the torque increases, the total wraps happening at each station decrease because the string travel is decreasing in distance by 1/2 the previous station's distance of string travel. At each station, as this phenomena occurs, a stronger fishing line can be used that is larger in diameter as needed. So only the first couple stations will use that 6lb fishing line but later stations will swap to stronger stuff since higher torques are getting involved at that point. The thumb tacks I considered welding together or brazing together. I considered Oxy-Acetylene micro torch welding, large soldering iron brazing, micro tig welding, pulse welding with a jewelry welder, spot welding, etc. But all of these approaches I am not that experienced with. I think I'll try brazing first and if I struggle with that I'll move to fiberglass and superglue where I have the most experience. My intention is to join each downgearing station thumb tack into its neighbor at the base and get them all to form a flat plane for stability and precise positioning. I intend to prepare the stations all together off the motor. Then when it is one solid structure with all of them glued to their neighbor and all pulley plastic discs added, at that point I can attach the whole assembly onto the 2430 BLDC motor top and suture it into place there. The teflon guidance hose attachment guide structure will also have to be part of this assembly for easy and secure attachment of the teflon hoses at the end.

Chobitsu 10/10/2024 (Thu) 05:33:50 No.33948

>>33947 >I came up with a design for a way to do all my downgearing 64:1 by way of pulleys that is so downscaled that it can fit onto the top of the 2430 motor and achieve the full 64:1 downgearing for BOTH directions of trave WOW! This sounds amazing, Artbyrobot. I wish you good success with this design. Really looking forward to seeing what you manage with this approach, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Grommet 10/10/2024 (Thu) 18:40:05 No.33954

>>33947 Very nice!

Kiwi 10/10/2024 (Thu) 20:03:10 No.33955

>>33890 >>33934 >>33947 Glad to see you gaining knowledge. You're on the right track and I believe you'll achieve great things. As for your math, what is the circumference of your main shaft? What about your pulley's? Theses do matter for calculating your speed of spring take-up. Multiplying Kv by V to attain output speed is generally good enough, do remember this is unloaded speed. If you're using a sensored BLDC motor, especially if you're using Field Oriented Control (FOC), you can get that if your load is low. Since you're using a 64:1 mechanism, you should achieve close to your calculated RPM, but never quite there. The BLDC still has to accelerate to your desired velocity, this should be in a fraction of a second, it's worth having it in the back of your mind. Especially when switching directions. As for torgue, this is surprisingly complex. To keep things simple, you'll likely get close to Nm=(8.3*A)/kV. Your high velocity constant of 5900Kv translates to a lower torque constant. Assuming 2A, you'd see almost .0028Nm, or 28grams per cm. Pull force on the string is then N=Nm/radius in meters. As for making pulley's out of thumbtacks and crimps, that's clever. The plastic your strawberry's came in is PP (polypropylene) which is low friction. You should still use some kind of grease, preferably with graphite to keep things smooth over time. Your design is similar to this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z11xJi-MvYI Hope this helps, I look forward to seeing how your design works IRL.

Artbyrobot 10/12/2024 (Sat) 04:01:07 No.33979

TheRobotStudio on YouTube is doing an open source robot called "Hope-Light" and inviting his viewers to follow along with his progress . I have decided to follow along, although I will be modifying his designs as I go to customize it more to my liking. He expressed he wants this to be a open source community to advance humanoid robotics development in the DIY space and usher in the wider adoption of humanoid robots in more homes across the world. He's excited for what this can mean for global productivity and quality of life improvements it can bring if executed well. I like this vision. My decision to follow along with his project is to pick up a extra head of steam in my own humanoid robot building projects by utilizing his experience and formal education in robotics engineering as a legit decorated world class humanoid roboticist. A world leader in the field. By following his open source project loosely, I can get a breath of fresh air by skipping past the bang my head against the wall dead-ends and regular difficult hurdles and just get results. Sort of like fast food drive thru. It will be a relief for me. And confidence booster. To see something really happen at a faster pace for a change. Now none of this is to say I'm abandoning my existing projects. They will all go on as planned without interruption. This will be a parallel journey I will share. I will certainly learn a ton and can apply what I learn to my other projects. I will have this Hope - Light robot adaptation be named Dinah. I'll use Eve's base mesh for the external appearance. The two females can look similar in build but have different faces. This robot will use to some extent TheRobotStudio's design philosophy and approach for the Hope-Light project. This means it WILL use metal geared brushed DC servos and it WILL use non-human-like bone structure, but I will still give it human-like realistic silicone skin and it will use the exterior exoskeleton shell of the Eve robot I 3d modeled already. One downside to this Hope-Light parallel implementation is that because it uses metal gearing it will be loud in its operation. So it will never be able to pass for human in public. That's okay though. My other designs are reaching for that aim and my other designs are still the intention for Adam, Eve, and Abel. So that vision remains alive. And will continue. But this noisy robot will still be a great learning experience and capable of doing useful work including helping me build my other robots, chores, manufacturing products, cooking, etc. It will probably do most of the things the Adam, Eve, and Abel robot can do but not be as strong, fast, and articulated. So it will probably not play sports well or do rock climbing or various other serious physical strenuous types of work. But the long list of things it should be able to do is still enough for it to be awesome. A great thing is that it won't be so experimental and outside the box like my previous solo approaches. This one will be designed to a small degree by a real professional so it will happen way faster and more surely than mine. Although I am finding I am changing his design so much it's not really his design at all anymore but my own. However, I still plan to retain a significant number of strategic decisions, placements, and organization following his lead. My other designs are more of a pipe dream shooting for the moon. Going more similar to this open source one designed by a real pro is more of a "sure thing". Not that I don't believe I can achieve my more ambitious designs, but just that they are admittedly a taller order and more crossing fingers about them is all. I really think building a top tier legit walking and talking full humanoid is going to legitimize my journey more in my own eyes and give me a better resume to bring MORE hope toward my own robot builds. Just seems like doing this is a no brainer. I've attached a early design progress image from TheRobotStudio who is currently designing Hope-Lite in Solidworks. You'll note he fused the distal knuckle of 4 fingers so they are permanently partly bent. This was a decision to cut down on complexity but in my preference, I'd rather have that functionality. You'll also note that it cannot pronate or supinate the wrist. That takes away a TON of functionality which is not my preference. So my robot will add this function back. That said, as I was studying how to add pronation and supination without a ulna and radius bone, I stumbled across the simple and effective design of posable love dolls' skeletons. I realized they have pronation and supination in their stock skeletons, so I decided I will use that kind of skeleton for this project. They are simple, very strong, welded steel construction with heavy duty hinge systems. To be posable, the hinges are quite stiff, so I will need to loosen all hinges to reduce friction. They are a hollow lightweight tubing style. Actually not that heavy.

Artbyrobot 10/12/2024 (Sat) 04:03:58 No.33980

So today I went ahead and extracted this metal skeleton from a male love doll I had bought some months back to use as a base form from which to sculpt the appearance of another robot. I bought it mainly wanting the already decent human appearance it offers in the TPE body and face that can act as a starting point for sculpting a robot. This is better than having to begin sculpting from scratch in clay and making a mold or w/e. Just a shortcut for me. I bought a decent used male love doll for a few hundred dollars which was a bargain to say the least. The shipping alone had to be close to $200+ so it was priced WAY below the cost of the raw materials if I were to try to buy 50lb of TPE rubber. I intended to melt down the massive amount of TPE rubber once done using it to assist in the sculpt of another robot and use that melted down rubber to create the skin for a robot. So those ideas were I had planned for this doll. However, now that I have decided to use the skeleton for a robot build - now I'm REALLY maximizing that little investment! So after 4-5 hours of carefully removing the skin from the frame, I have it all off. I made a few tears here and there in the doll from rough handling during the skinning process and the lack of experience at this, but it went well overall. It was a very physically demanding job to separate the skin from the frame since you had to pry at it, cut it, and peel it and the whole time it fights you wanting to snap back to its original shape. I am quite sore but glad I got it done in a single day. Attached is a photo of the skeleton I just extracted and will be modding and using for Dinah Now, having gotten the skeleton out and analyzed it carefully, I noticed it does not have the ability to shrug, so I'll have to add a hinge on both sides to enable that movement. Also, its bar where the tibia and fibia would be is not proportional in length to the bar that acts as the femur. I can see that they made the doll taller by just adding length to the tibia/fibia bar rather than proportionally adding height throughout the robot. So its proportions are off due to their laziness or oversight. In any case, I have to modify ALL the proportions some I think to match the proportions of my Eve base mesh sculpt. The neck is also quite hard to bend so I might have to add a couple hinges to it. All the nuts for every hinge on it are welded into place to prevent them backing out so I will have to grind off all these welds so I can loosen the nuts to disable posing and instead have all joints freely moving to reduce friction. I will have to add proper fingers and a palm. I will 3d print these bones for the fingers. TheRobotStudio is using Feetech SC0009 servos for the fingers. I'm planning to substitute in three N20 66rpm motors in place of each Feettech SC0009 servo. By combining three of these N20 motors, I am able to surpass the total torque of the SC0009 servo but after factoring in the size of our respective output winches, mine will be about 13% slower than his. This is fine by me because his robot hand designs are always extremely fast in finger speed and I can get by 13% slower than this. The purpose of swapping in N20 66rpm motors for the Feetech SC0009 motors is to cut costs and I just have a ton of them already and have been itching to use them. The Feetech SC0009 servo is around $11 and my N20 66rpm motors are only around $0.80 so 3 of them is $2.40. So that's $8.60 saved ever time I do this part alternative strategy. Well the savings is a bit less since I then have to supply my own motor controller H-bridge chip and potentiometer to read joint angle. So maybe only $8 saved. However, from what I gather, the Feetech SC0009 requires a serial adapter board to run it and doesn't use PWM but uses serial. I do NOT like this AT ALL in terms of my preferences and the adapter boards were $13 each and only serve 4 servos. That will add up quickly. So I'm actually saving that cost too. I prefer my microcontrollers to pwm directly to the h-bridge with no middle man software whatsoever to maximize my control. TheRobotStudio is using 3 different sizes of Feetech servos in his approach. You can see the wrist servo is much bigger in his CAD model. I am operating under the assumption I can cram TONS of these little N20 66rpm motors and use more than one of them per joint. So I can use as many as I need to get to the torque I require. I will use L298N motor driver h-bridge chips with these N20 66rpm motors to drive them. This chip can safely power 2 N20 motors per channel and has two channels. It's VERY cheap maybe like $0.15 per chip I think - don't remember. I'll use Arduino mega to send out the pwm. I'll use 10k ohm 3 pin wheeled potentiometers to read the joint angles and these will be coupled to the joints by fishing line which will translate the joint angles over to the potentiometers whose values will be read in by the Arduino Megas. So a lot of my own designs for control and sensory input I'm sticking with for this project but using various elements of Hope-Light for a hybrid approach and swapping in different actuators whenever I feel inclined. >>33955 The cm of the main shaft was included in the calculation already in the calculation post above. The cm of the pulleys doesn't matter in itself but what actually matters is the size difference between the thicker pulley and thinner pulley being 2x in diameter so each pulley acts as a 2x from the previous one. So only the relative size matters between one pulley and the next - just like how it is for gears.

Artbyrobot 10/13/2024 (Sun) 12:16:05 No.33992

I just came up with a cool alternative way to downgear a 2430 BLDC motor that might work. Attached is a illustration of the cheap downgearing idea: So basically, I figured what if I could remove the N20 motor from its gearbox/"gear set" by cutting it free or w/e. But I keep its center axle in place cutting away only everything else. You'd then presumably have a metal shaft as a entrance to the gearbox and a metal shaft exiting the top of the gearbox. I then turn that metal input shaft and output shaft into pulleys. I feed my 2430 motor output shaft pulley/winch into the input shaft of each of 4 N20 motor gearboxes, evenly distributing the load. Each gearbox downgears my 2430 motor 150:1. Each gearbox chatgpt said could handle about 5-6lb load but this can't be sudden or fast direction change this is really pushing it. But it seems 4 gearboxes should handle most of what we'd want from a 2430 motor. And the fact we can fit them all within the height of the motor output shaft default length and within the width of the 2430 motor diameter for the most part seems it would be a pretty significant downgearing for very low space taken as the cost. You could even locate a few more gearboxes off the motor anywhere and have those fed further distributing to them the load if only 4 gearboxes was not enough to handle expected forces. The cool thing is supposing we did this, it would cost us four N20 motors which is $0.80x4 = $3.20. That is VERY cheap for a gearbox as I read that a planetary gearbox for it would be like $25-30! And the planetary gearbox would take up WAY WAY WAY WAY more space which is highly coveted in our application - space we can't afford to spare. And the great thing is these little gearboxes you can fit ANYWHERE into a nook or cranny since they are so tiny... and you can use as many as you want to get up to the total forces you need them to handle as a collective. Seems like this could be a cool technique. I want to give it a go. Any thoughts? Note: this would be something I'd try on the Dinah robot where I'm using metal gears despite the noise these create since its a lower budget simpler robot I'm doing just to get something done faster for a change. My Adam, Eve, and Abel robots will be going pulleys to downgear to make them very quiet in operation as has been the plan forever.

Chobitsu 10/14/2024 (Mon) 15:11:54 No.34000

Good luck, Artbyrobot. Looking forward to seeing your accomplishments with both the old & the new project plans. Cheers, Anon. :^)

Artbyrobot 10/17/2024 (Thu) 04:26:38 No.34016

The Dinah robot is coming along well. I modeled the full steel skeleton in CAD to match the dimensions of the Dinah base mesh and created a human bones variation as well to compare that to the steel simplified skeleton and make sure all the joint pivots matched the locations of the human skeleton joints pivot points. With this CAD, I will be able to modify the proportions of the steel skeleton I have on hand. I also added several key additional joints using reference photos of a skeleton I found online. For example I now have 2 pivot points for the knee joint instead of one which gives more clearance when knee bends back. I also gave a few more degrees of freedom to the neck and shoulder area. Note also that I am well on my way to finishing up printing ABS solid infill fingers and wrist bones which I will retrofit onto the steel skeleton so that I can have full 27 degrees of freedom robot hands and wrists to match perfectly the dexterity of the human hand, which is a must. I have decided that once I finish the arm and head, I will not go on to complete the building of the rest of the robot's body but instead will switch my focus to the AI entirely from there forward. I will code the AI to cause that arm and head to build the rest of its own body.

Robowaifu Technician 10/17/2024 (Thu) 06:20:40 No.34018

>>34016 > I will code the AI to cause that arm and head to build the rest of its own body. This is a pipe dream, and completely unfeasible. If you go down developmental road your project will never progress behind a tote of printed parts, a used masturbation skeleton and a half-baked, incomplete attempt at code. Be more pragmatic. There is zero (0) chance of you being able to get a simple robotic arm and hand to assemble anything close to as complex as itself. Think about the wire routing, the fasteners hell, think about literally any point during the assembly of the arm in which you were required to use both of your hands simultaneously. Assemble the robot seeing as how you've already made progress on that front. That's the easy part. After that, get to work on the software side. Even if you only have a fancy animatronic, any effort made after that will have a ready test platform. Set smaller goals for yourself and you'll make progress.

Artbyrobot 10/17/2024 (Thu) 08:57:36 No.34019

I have absolutely zero use for or interest in a robot that cannot build the rest of its own body with one arm/hand and a head. Therefore stopping all further building after the bare minimum hardware of one arm and one head are completed is the only reasonable path. It saves the time of me doing future building myself which the robot could’ve done for me. It also acts as the final conclusion of the project accepting total failure if my AI does not bring about the building of the Robó body using just that one arm. I would accept defeat at that point. There would be no purpose in building the rest of the body, shy of an AI that can do that. This is where the rubber meets the road. If I fail the AI, then I had no business building a robot to begin with because the only robot I would ever be interested in is a robot sophisticated enough to build its own body with a single arm and head. For times where it needs that second hand to be able to do something, I obtained the necessary extra robotic helping hand simple pincher toy to fill in the gaps where this fully dexterous human hand needs a little bit of help. Also, it can use the usual vise or electronics helping hands for additional options for it to hold things while it works on them. If I had those options, I could build the robot one handed.

Robowaifu Technician 10/17/2024 (Thu) 19:09:54 No.34020

>>34019 You're setting yourself up for failure. This isn't "where the rubber meets the road" this is "where the project stops making progress". I get you have ambitions, but you're jumping ahead too far; no proof of concept, no prototype hardware or software, no practical understanding of the problem. Even if you were to go down this path with all of your effort, you would still need to take smaller steps that you seem to be unwilling to take. For instance: a small goal of getting your robot arm to assemble a simple structure. Say, screwing six fasteners of various size in to a block, and routing a wire into a channel of extruded aluminum; things that will be analogous to assembly of your completed design. Make that happen and sure, you're on the road towards what you want to do. But you're either grossly underestimating the difficulty of that problem or willingly abandoning your project with the inbuilt excuse of "I'm working on the AI, and until that's perfect this project is meaningless." Also this doesn't save you any assembly time. Printing and assembling the parts will take a small fraction of the time that programming and troubleshooting even the above example experiment would take. You're shooting yourself in both feet.

Artbyrobot 10/18/2024 (Fri) 01:31:05 No.34021

I managed to get Dinah's hand bones printed out in ABS (100% infill) on my Anet A8 3d printer the past couple days. I also cleaned up the prints, removed the supports, and sanded down high points. They are ready for attaching them together with cloth tape which will act as artificial ligaments. You'll note I fused the ulna and radius bones together to use as a rotational joint for the wrist to function like a human wrist. The actual pronation and supination of the forearm though will happen by way of the steel skeleton having a rotating pivot point unlike the human body where the radius rotates and twists over the ulna in a criss cross. Note: in this photo the middle finger is missing the distal tip which I was reprinting as the time of this photo.

Robowaifu Technician 10/18/2024 (Fri) 01:53:46 No.34022

>>34016 >That skeleton and metal frame Been there, tried to do that, one of the worst mistakes in my life. Your steel bones were never meant for a robot. They will never be meant for a robot. I say this as someone who truly wants you to succeed, this is a dead end. I failed already, you don't have to repeat my mistakes. You may have many arguments on how you can still move a high mass frame. You may have arguments on how its movements are good for a robot actually. They won't hold up to reality. You're free to ignore my warning. I'll just be sad to see you wasting time. >Using AI to have the machine complete itself after just an arm and a head. I'm unsure on how you could possibly think this makes sense in anyway. The level of dexterity and complexity needed is beyond what anyone on earth has ever built. I say this as someone who works with arms in manufacturing, they cannot build themselves. It requires many specialized machines working together in perfect sync with human help. There is no AI that can out think a man, and no man can build an arm that can build a humanoid on its own. >>34019 >If robot cannot build itself; Then no interest You're either operating under a tremendous burden of hubris or delusion. Please, scale back your your project. You could still build something that benefits humanity. It's depressing to see a bright mind waste itself on a project with a scope that eclipses all reason and sanity. >>34020 I dislike their tone but, they are correct. >>34021 >ABS >Cloth tape ligaments That's going to fall apart. Cloth tape won't securely adhere to ABS long term. Using fasteners such as screws would keep things together long term. It's plastic, you just need to place the right sized hole and the screws will self tap. It's an easy fix. Frankly, your hand should be one peice with flat sections for living joints. That would be far more functional, easier, and last a heck of a lot longer. Please, take a step back and think of how to kit is simple smartly. https://hackaday.com/2023/05/01/hinges-live-inside-3d-prints/

Artbyrobot 10/18/2024 (Fri) 02:52:18 No.34024

Just weighed the steel skeleton - it’s 8lb 11oz

Robowaifu Technician 10/18/2024 (Fri) 05:34:15 No.34025

>>34022 >I dislike their tone but, they are correct. That's me. I'd like to clarify, if there's any ambiguity, that I am not wishing this project or its designer any ill will. I'd like to see everyone on this board accomplish what they set out to do. I mentioned it before in my embassy post, but I truly believe that great strides in the world of humanoid and companion robotics can and will be made by very talented, passionate and bright people like those found here. I'm not trying to be negative, I am trying to clearly express that this ultimatum that the designer has set for himself is a mistake. Progress is seldom made in tremendous leaps, and things like this require iteration. Look at the minds behind some of the most impressive robots out there and examine their design paths. Skipping directly from "first iteration robotic arm and head" directly to "self-assembling sentient automaton" is entirely unfeasible and tantamount to abandoning the project entirely. OP, look to your peers on this board alone. We've seen many projects fall by the wayside after more progress than has been made on this one as a consequence of much more benign factors. You should do everything you can to avoid sharing their fate. If I were to offer more direct advice, it would be to set a flowchart of goals for yourself: head and arm -> object tracking with head -> reaching for tracked object with arm -> simple manipulation of object with arm -> construction/refinement of second arm and existing arm -> integration to torso and beginning form factor -> simple integrated AI system (speech recognition, LLM support, facial recognition etc.) -> enhanced object tracking and utility capabilities -> refine form factor -> locomotion (first iteration: wheeled dolly with skirt or similar)->.... so on and so forth. The fact that you've made this much progress shows that you have the capability to make something remarkable. It'd be a tremendous disappointment to yourself and this community to see your efforts come to nothing. Honestly, I want to see you succeed.

Artbyrobot 10/18/2024 (Fri) 13:24:49 No.34027

In these photos you can see the progression of going from the stock wrist to an axial rotating wrist assembly acting as a plain bearing. Pardon the Orgrimmar welding its a cheapo welder. The process involved cutting the bolt head off then grinding smooth the threads and then sliding on a stack of washers and welding the last couple washers into a mushroom head end stop then welding the other washers to eachother and these ones are to spin freely. They will do the pronationa and supination. This replaces the need for a ulna and radius for that purpose, simplifying the skeleton some. The metal outcroppings I left on the washers were meant to jut out significantly to give the fiberglass something to bite onto well for a dependable attachment. Note: The stock skeleton does rotate already at a spot just near the elbow but that rotation is stiff and requires significant force to get it to move and loosening it is something I don't know how to do. I don't even know how it works at all. Advice on that for future reference would be helpful. Note: There is too much clearance on the stack of washers so they can slide distally or proximally a good 8mm which is not okay - too much play. I need to fill that gap and lube it all with white lithium grease. Note: I'm planning to probably just go fiberglass wraps over and over onto the stack of washers to grip it tightly and build outward from it and then go out and around the welded mushroom cap and then wrap onto the ABS wrist ulna/radius fused section that the little wrist bones will attach and rotate/roll on. Also note that I have reconsidered adding a dual hinge to the elbow joint and lean now toward just leaving it stock. I think the double hinge would add complication to the bicep attachment and cause some issues I'd rather avoid. A single hinge is easier to deal with IMO. And leaving it as stock as possible is a time saver. Of course, when I say leave it stock, that just refers to the overall design of the joint. I still have to loosen the joints to allow for free rotation.

Artbyrobot 10/22/2024 (Tue) 03:19:06 No.34060

So I finally got the wrist done. And aside from grinding off welds on bolts and backing off the bolts to allow for free movement at joints, I'm mostly going to try to keep this skeleton stock for the most part. So I may be attaching the hand and going immediately into electronics rather than fiddling with the skeleton adding more range of motion here and there. I can always add that later anyways. And in fact the poseable joints that are fairly stiff I'm finding is actually pretty convenient while working on it so I may only free joints on an as needed basis for testing electronic actuation of that joint. Until then I'll leave them alone. Also note: I was planning to have the wrist rotate axially around the location of the wrist for the pronation and supination. However, I realized this will not look right since you can visibly see the forearms move and the muscles there moving when you pronate and supinate your arm. So I have to have the pronation and supination be where the skeleton was originally doing this near the elbow. This will allow for much more natural looking pronation and supination. So the wrist location will not rotate AT ALL after all. This made it all the easier to make the ulna and radius distal wrist joint where the little wrist bones and hand will attach to and rotate on. I sculpted it all in fiberglass and super glue with some nails and some ABS plastic pieces and epoxy to build up the shape. I used my ABS 3d print of this part as reference only. This thing needed to be very strong as it's likely going to the point of failure as the rest of the arm is steel. So I wanted to make sure it was maximally solid and didn't fully trust just going with a 3d print there.

Chobitsu 10/22/2024 (Tue) 17:37:47 No.34067

I predict this is all going to be amazing in the end, Artbyrobot. KEEP.MOVING.FORWARD. Cheers, Anon. :^)

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