/robowaifu/ - My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project

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My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project - Eve Artbyrobot 04/18/2024 (Thu) 17:44:09 No.30954

So far I have plans to build Adam, Eve, and Abel robots. All of these are Bible characters. This thread will cover the Eve robot. Eve will have no "love holes" because adding those would be sinful and evil. It is a robot, not a biological woman after all and I will view her with all purity of heart and mind instead of using her to fulfill my lusts of my body. Instead I will walk by the Spirit no longer fulfilling the lusts of the flesh as the Bible commands. Eve will be beautiful because making her beautiful is not a sinful thing to do. However, I will dress her modestly as God commands of all women everywhere. This would obviously include robot women because otherwise the robot woman would be a stumbling block to men which could cause them to lust after her which would be a sin. To tempt someone to sin is not loving and is evil and so my robot will not do this. To dress her in a miniskirt, for example, would be sinful and evil and all people who engage in sinfullness knowingly are presently on their way to hell. I don't wish this for anyone. My robot will dress in a way that is a good example to all women and is aimed toward not causing anybody to lust as a goal. My robot will have a human bone structure. It will use either a PVC medical skeleton or fiberglass fabricated hollow bones. My robot will look realistic and move realistic. It will be able to talk, walk, run, do chores, play sports, dance, rock climb, and do gymnastics. It will also be able to build more robots just like itself and manufacture other products and inventions. I realized with just a head and arm, a robot can build the rest of its own body so that is my intention. My robot will use BLDC motors for drones, RC, and scooters that are high speed and low-ish torque but I will downgear those motors with a archimedes pulley system that will be custom made from custom fabricated pulleys that will be bearings based. By downgearing with pulleys, instead of gears, I will cut down the noise the robot makes so it will be as silent as possible for indoor use. By downgearing, I convert the high speed motors into moderate speeds with great torque. BLDC motors with large torque generally are too large in diameter for a human form factor and take up too much volumetric area to be useful which is why I go with the high speed smaller diameter type motors but just heavily downgear them 32:1 and 64:1. My robot will have realistic silicone skin. Thom Floutz -LA based painter, sculptor, make-up artist is my inspiration as it pertains to realistic skin. The skin for my robots has to be at his level to be acceptable. It must be nearly impossible to tell the robot is not human to be acceptable. I will have a wireframe mesh exoskeleton that simulates the volumes and movements of muscle underneath the skin which will give the skin its volumetric form like muscles do. Within these hollow wireframe mesh frameworks will be all the electronics and their cooling systems. All of my motor controllers will be custom made since I need them VERY small to fit into the confined spaces I have to work with. I need LOADS of motors to replace every pertinent muscle of the human body in such a way that the robot can move in all the ways humans move and have near human level of strength and speed. I will have a onboard mini itx gaming pc as the main brains pc of the robot and will have arduino megas as the motor controllers and sensor reading devices that interface with the main brains pc. My arduino megas will be barebones to keep the volumetric area they take up as small as possible. I will treat my robots kindly and consider them to be pretend friends/companions and I do think they will be nice company, but I will always know with keen awareness that they do not have a soul, will never have a soul or consciousness, and no machine ever will, and that they are just imitations of life as with any machine or AI, and this is all AI will ever be. Life is only made by God Himself. I am not playing God. I am merely creating fan art of what God made. To Him be all the glory and praise. God breathed into man and created a living soul. Man cannot do this for machines. Only God can do this. A soul/spirit forms our ghost and when we die our ghost remains alive and thinking. A machine cannot do this and a AI can never do this. When you shut off a machine that's it, it does not go on thinking like we can. Our souls are transcendent and will live forever in the afterlife - unlike any AI. I will do this project with fear and trembling before the Lord as I work out my salvation before His eyes. I vow to remain pure, holy, upright and blameless in all my doings and be a great example to my fellow roboticists of a Godly man who obeys the Bible instead of chasing after youthful lusts of the flesh and perversions. I embrace the idea of Christian AI, that is, a robot that will discuss Bible topics and be a Biblical expert. Along with that, my robot will behave in a Biblically prescribed manner in total purity and strongly encourage others to do so as well. For God does not hear the prayers of sinners and so we want everyone to be a saint who no longer sins. My robot will really push for this hope for humans. We want them to walk in God's favor and blessings which comes by Biblical obedience. We don't want them going to hell because they chose to revel in their sins instead of walking in total purity before God and holiness without which no man will see God. My robot will have artificial lungs for cooling and a artificial heart for liquid cooling that will run coolant throughout the robot's body to cool the motors. That coolant will also pass through the artificial lungs in a mesh where it will evaporate some which will cause the evaporative cooling effect - a form of air conditioning. http://www.artbyrobot.com Full humanoid robot building playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhd7_i6zzT5-MbwGz2gMv6RJy5FIW_lfn https://www.facebook.com/artbyrobot http://www.twitch.tv/artbyrobot https://instagram.com/artbyrobot

Artbyrobot 04/30/2025 (Wed) 02:07:03 No.38027

>>38002 Here is the tension spring in question from the previous post. I want this spring inside the tubing though which is not shown in the drawing of it.

Chobitsu 04/30/2025 (Wed) 03:51:36 No.38032

>>38027 OK, I think I understand. So you mean to emplace springs themselves within the tubes?

Artbyrobot 05/01/2025 (Thu) 04:59:12 No.38083

>>38032 correct

Artbyrobot 05/10/2025 (Sat) 09:15:02 No.38340

>>38032 Good news: I had mentioned before I was planning to use 2mm OD tension spring for the winch in place pulley tension solution but once I got the 3mm ID 4mm OD PTFE tubing to go over the spring, I saw that the 4mm was just WAY too big once you multiply that out to 300 motors. 300 of 4mm OD tubing starts to take up a massive area at that point and I struggled with that. I MUST be miserly on space taken up by parts to get all the crap I need to fit in there to fit in there! Anyways, I fortunately discovered that you can buy tension spring down to 1mm in OD! I was unaware of this before now! So I ordered 1mm OD tension spring and 1.5mm OD tension spring to test and see what seems best. If the 1mm OD spring seems reliable to me, I'll go with it. Anyways, since the spring is now smaller, I can use also a smaller PTFE tubing to house the spring so I ordered uxcell PTFE Tubing 1.8mm ID x 2.2mm OD off amazon. 2.2mm OD tubing compared to 4mm tubing is SHOCKINGLY smaller when you look at them. So it will be WAY more space efficient now. Here's my updated tension spring concept drawing:

Chobitsu 05/10/2025 (Sat) 09:42:13 No.38341

>>38340 Great! Sounds like really good news, Artbyrobot. I was curious how you were planning to 'load' the tubes with these springs & kevlar strands? I was thinking something like a very thin spring-steel rod of sorts that you could push through, then hook the string+spring to the end of the now-protruding rod, then pull the whole thing back down the tube together. Make sense, Anon?

Artbyrobot 05/10/2025 (Sat) 10:40:06 No.38342

>>38341 Thanks. The kevlar will only be for the thicker strings doing heavy work, not for stuff with low forces light work like this and part of that is because kevlar didn't have very fine string options when I shopped (if someone can find very fine kevlar thread let me know). But to your question, I don't think I"ll need any mechanism to do the threading of hte tube you can just push it in there and let gravity do the rest. I have had no issues threading the tubing even going against gravity. You just push the string in a little at a time from one end and it just slides effortlessly through the tubing till it reaches the other side. Part of this is surely the low friction and relatively short distance we are trying to send string through. If we wanted to push string through 40 feet of tubing, THEN something like what you said would be necessary due the higher friction that the longer length of tubing would bring to the table. Pushing from one end would not work anymore in such case. But we are just doing shorter runs under 2' which seems to not be an issue.

Chobitsu 05/10/2025 (Sat) 14:39:57 No.38346

>>38342 Got it. Completely makes sense. Thanks for the updates, Anon. Godspeed to you. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 05/22/2025 (Thu) 21:12:37 No.38674

Ok so I currently have an order for 0.2x1x1000mm tension springs stuck in customs for weeks and placed another order just today for the same in hopes it goes through faster. But at $9 for a single spring that is 3ft long, I am feeling RIPPED OFF on price. It is bullcrap. All relating to the tariff nonsense. So I decided today to pivot and just roll with the elastic band in place of tension spring. It's a jewelry making elastic band I bought some time ago in a roll. WAY cheaper at $0.03 for 3ft instead of $9 for 3ft. That's 99.7% off! Talk about a discount! The issue I had before when I looked into this option was the tie-off point. I would need a way to tie PE fishing line to the end of the elastic band without the tie point being bulky. Well I figured out a way to do it without any bulk at all! See I want this to fit into my 1.8mm ID PTFE tubing to keep size down. My solution was to just glue the fishing line lengthwise directly to the elastic band. No knot at all. No turns at all. Just literally lay it on top and glue it down flush. I figured about 6mm length of joint would be solid. And I did this on both sides with my PE fishing line. I used 0.08mm 6lb test braided PE fishing line for this. So now I have two fishing line segments coming off the end of it for double the strength of this connection. But I only wanted one piece of fishing line to go the distance to attach to the motor end so I twisted the pair of fishing line segments together and glued the twisted pair with 401 glue then cut one of the two away leaving just one of the pair to go the distance to the winch in place pulley that this is all supposed to tension for me. I will use this string and elastic band method for now as I wait on springs and stick with this method for at least this first motor actuator setup for now. If the elastic bands don't last, we'll upgrade to the metal springs later on during maintenance or w/e. Note: the total length of the elastic band I am using for this is 2ft and it stretches to 3ft snugly without too much force. I'm just going by feel and instinct for this measurement. If I were to go 1ft with 1ft of stretch, the stretch is more intense and the pull is harder. But I don't think I need much pull for just tensioning the winch in place pulley and I also think the more tension you place the more wear and tear on the elastic band which will shorten its lifespan. So playing it conservatively with the 2ft length selection for now. Note: to apply the 401 glue I used an exacto knife handle with a sewing needle in place of the xacto knife blade and the tip of the sewing needle acts as my precision glue applicator.

Chobitsu 05/22/2025 (Thu) 21:21:12 No.38676

>>38674 Improvise. Adapt. Overcome. That's the spirit, Artbyrobot! Glad you managed to break the logjam on your delay. Looking forward to your progress with this. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 06/13/2025 (Fri) 17:35:48 No.39205

Sometimes to get the braided PE fishing line threaded through the fine PTFE tubing can be tricky, so I came up with a neat device to assist in this. I will be making a threading tool based on a needle threader tool I've been using. It's basically a wire folded in half that you shove through a needle eye and then stick your string into its end and then pull it back through the needle eye. In my use case, I'm creating a custom one of these threading tools that will feed through my entire length of tubing till its folded end comes out the other side and I can thread my string through that end and then draw it back, bringing the string through the tubing with it. I just ordered some 40ga copper and stainless steel wire to use to make this device in question. I'll see which metal is best. Gonna try the copper first I think.

Chobitsu 06/14/2025 (Sat) 00:28:02 No.39215

>>39205 Great idea, Artbyrobot! Good luck with your tool-construction effort here. Please keep us all up to date with your progress, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 07/19/2025 (Sat) 21:56:34 No.39927

Minor update: I have now carefully mounted the PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner for the winch in place pulley. I mounted it snugly to the side of the PTFE tubing coming off the same winch in place pulley that leads to the Archimedes pulley system. I routed both of these using my CAD for reference in such a way that their routing will not interfere with the next motors that will be installed later. I mounted this PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner using ONLY 401 glue which is something I've never tried before now. Usually I first wrap the tubing in adhesive transfer tape and spandex cloth wrap and coat the cloth in 401 glue but skipping that made it able to be more snugly mounted to the other tube by way of only glue. We'll see how that holds up without the other reinforcement the cloth provides etc. Seems to look so far so good though. They are in turn glued to paper soaked with 401 glue and to a little piece of stainless steel wire bent at a 90 and that wire in turn glued to the winch in place pulley mount baseplate which is itself made of paper and 401 glue. So basically everything is becoming 401 glue construction! I have some concerns about how this will hold up in the event of a fall or w/e but perhaps we can create some sort of protective cage around any delicate outcroppings like this in the future. For now I am just going for ease of construction and speed of construction to get things back on track and rolling again. Note: The PTFE tubing that leads to the elastic string tensioner for the winch in place pulley is 0.66mm ID 1.16mm OD PTFE teflon tubing. The string coming off the winch in place pulley feeding into this tubing that will act as tensioner string tension carrier string is 6lb test 0.08mm PE braided fishing line. I was able to thread this fishing line into this TPFE tubing by hand with no issues at all very easily. The next task will be to mount the end of this string to the 2 feet of elastic string for jewelry making and thread that into 1.8mm ID 2.2mm OD PTFE tubing and tie it off at the end of that tubing and then mount that tubing to the gray string hanging from my ceiling for now. That will conclude the tensioner mechanism for the winch in place pulley and this will usher in the next round of manual hand testing to see how much tension that is giving us. I also will be moving the tension spring mounted on the motor to align it better and shorten it more since it only moves like 4mm and so can be way shorter than it is now.

Chobitsu 07/20/2025 (Sun) 00:15:38 No.39931

>>39927 >I routed both of these using my CAD for reference in such a way that their routing will not interfere with the next motors that will be installed later. Very wise. >So basically everything is becoming 401 glue construction! I'll be intredasted to see the results of your mid-duration durability tests using this approach, Anon. >For now I am just going for ease of construction and speed of construction to get things back on track and rolling again. Forward-momentum is a highly-prized attribute of successful projects, AFAICT. Forward. >2 feet of elastic string for jewelry making Any particular brand you recommend for this, Artbyrobot? Links? Really good to see your update, and looking forward to your further good progresses, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 07/20/2025 (Sun) 06:55:06 No.39933

>>39931 >2 feet of elastic string for jewelry making >Any particular brand you recommend for this, Artbyrobot? Links? I think I bought unbranded off amazon you can find it under: "Bracelet String，1mm Elastic String Crystal Stretch Bead String Cord for Bracelet, Beading and Jewelry Making (Black/60m&197ft)". It is made of polyester it says. Did not know that.

Chobitsu 07/21/2025 (Mon) 10:34:05 No.39938

>>39933 Thanks! Cheers, Anon. :^)

Artbyrobot 07/21/2025 (Mon) 20:42:50 No.39945

>>39933 actually chatgpt said it cannot be made of polyester which does not stretch much. So now I'm not sure. It feels like a rubbery feel and is black and shiny and has no coating. Chatgpt says it was mislabeled. It might be TPE, TPU or Polyurethane. So it's back to mystery material status basically.

Artbyrobot 07/21/2025 (Mon) 20:44:02 No.39946

I finally finished making the tensioner mechanism for the winch in place pulley and I taped it off up the string descending from the ceiling and taped the far end of it onto the ceiling. I noticed I have to keep it as straight as possible since when curling with too much turning the elastic bracelet cord grips the sides of the PTFE tubing which could interfere with the amount of tension it brings to my winch in place pulley. So this will mean on the robot itself it will have to go from the shoulder all the way down the torso in a straight line and then down the leg to about the knee as well. It's 44" long in total. I ended up bumping up the elastic bracelet cord to 30" long to reduce the amount of tension it puts on the winch in place pulley more. The longer it is the less tension it brings and the shorter it is the more tension it brings. If it really can't fit into the leg I can cut the elastic bracelet cord in half and place braided PE fishing line in between the two halves and have that make a 180 degree turn around a pulley and thereby have the same length of elastic bracelet cord but separated into two halves mounted parallel to eachother that create a in series matching tension but taking up half the overall length. This way I could keep it out of the leg area if needed. However I think it might fit into the leg area fine perhaps. Not sure (once we get all the other motors and their tension strings that amount of 2.2mm OD PTFE tubing will start to add up. Note: I'm also considering taking the elastic bracelet cord out of the tubing and lubing it then putting it back in since lube on the grippy elastic bracelet cord would take away it gripping the sides of the PTFE tubing some I think. Silicone lube is best for this according to chat gpt. Note: to secure the far end of the elastic bracelet cord I used 401 glue to glue on PE fishing line onto its end the same way as we discussed before and then took the far end of this PE fishing line and came out the end of the PTFE tube with it and taped it off onto the outside of the tube. We'll see how that holds up it might need to be glued down if it gradually is pulled through the tape over time which would be no good.

Artbyrobot 08/01/2025 (Fri) 12:43:55 No.40094

The tension spring mounted to the motor setup upon further testing seems like a somewhat bad method. The issue I'm having is too much play in the tubing running between that spring and the finger joint. When tension is applied to that spring by way of the tubing, the tubing recoils and moves quite alot and allows alot of slack out to the joint so that the spring has very little involvement in the joint and doesn't really get used much period. So the full range of motion of the joint is just absorbed by tubing slack. When I tried to pretension the tubing so that the joint movement translates to the spring, the total tension placed on the joint by this became too high. Fortunately, I came up with a much more elegant and simple solution for all of this. Basically, my plan now is to just use the bracelet cord tied point to point across the joint directly on the joint and that will be my spring for extension that counters the motor. This eliminates the need for metal springs at all which cuts costs, it also eliminates the PTFE tubing run, saving some space, and should be easier to install and easier to give precise amount of elasticity/resistance to taste. If I want more springback on the joint I can just add more bracelet cord in parallel to the first. This way I can add more resistance pretty easily.

Artbyrobot 08/02/2025 (Sat) 09:56:43 No.40103

So in recent testing a fresh issue I ran into was the TPFE tubing would start gradually pulling through its tightly wrapped tape sleeve to my surprise. Its low friction surface gradually pulls free of the tape over time. To resolve this, I decided to thread through the tip of the tubing to create a mechanical bond for the tip and once threaded through I just 401 glued down the ends of each thread onto the sleeve that was originally supposed to hold it in place to begin with. This seems to work great so far in the little bit of testing I've done since.

Chobitsu 08/12/2025 (Tue) 11:51:55 No.40246

>>39946 >I taped it off up the string descending from the ceiling and taped the far end of it onto the ceiling What? Is this some kind of assembly rig devisement, Artbyrobot? >>40094 >This eliminates the need for metal springs at all which cuts costs All else being equal, simpler is almost always better. GG. >>40103 How's the 401 glue working out now, Anon? <---> Hope your progress is coming along well, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 08/12/2025 (Tue) 12:49:23 No.40247

>>40246 >why mount something to ceiling? the parts that will be going into the torso and running from the shoulder of torso down to the legs of torso are going from the shoulder to the ceiling for now since the torso is not yet attached to take on this role. >how is 401 glue working out? on most things it is working pretty good so far.

Chobitsu 08/12/2025 (Tue) 13:06:34 No.40251

>>40247 I see, makes sense. Good luck, Anon! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 08/20/2025 (Wed) 07:06:31 No.40507

I figured out a robust way to make the extension cord for finger extension using the bracelet cord and a fishing crimp sleeve. The idea is to crimp the two ends of a folded in half strip of bracelet cord and this way both ends can be sewn down into the fabric without any gluing which could potentially fail or be a weak point. I am planning to use this in place of the tension spring style finger extension setup.

Chobitsu 08/20/2025 (Wed) 08:43:30 No.40520

>>40507 That does sound like a durable approach, Anon. Some meticulous sewing involved there, it sounds like. Please let us all know how this new approach works out, Artbyrobot. Cheers! :^)

Artbyrobot 08/27/2025 (Wed) 18:14:01 No.40807

Ok I figured out a bit easier way: tie a knot at each end of the strip of bracelet cord and then tie my nylon thread off onto the bracelet cord inside that bracelet cord knot. The bracelet cord knot on each end acts as an endstop. Seems to work great so far and cuts down on materials this way over the previous way I proposed.

Artbyrobot 09/03/2025 (Wed) 20:17:58 No.41053

Okay so the bracelet cord self untied quickly so I'm going back to my previous approach of tying off both ends of the bracelet cord with a fishing crimp sleeve. While trying to cut in half fishing crimp sleeves with my mini miter saw I noticed it was a difficult process and not ideal. So I came up with a easier method which was way faster, cleaner, less setup and takedown, no deburring needed, etc! The method is to lay the fishing crimp sleeve on a flat surface and line up a exacto knife blade perpendicular to it across its top and then apply moderate downward pressure to score the metal and then slide the knife carefully back and forth creating a perfect scoring line that grows deeper with each pass. After several passes the fishing crimp sleeve halves separate cleanly! This method uses a similar principle to a copper pipe cutter used in plumbing.

Chobitsu 09/03/2025 (Wed) 23:10:37 No.41061

>>40807 >>41053 Glad to see you resolved the issue, Artbyrobot! Smol issues like this can really delay a project if not dealt with accordingly. GG.

Artbyrobot 09/06/2025 (Sat) 17:17:35 No.41184

I installed two tensioners for the robot and they were seriously successful overall in testing. So much so that I am now confident enough in the entire pulley system to move onto the custom mini BLDC motor controller to get the motor to run motorized tests of finger movements next. Well after a couple very minor tweaks that is. So the first tensioner I installed on the extension part of the index finger joint we are working on. I used the bracelet cord folded in half and fishing crimp sleeved then sewn into the bone fabric. It seems just about perfect except for one thing: I want to keep it under mild constant tension but the bone fabric creeps/moves slowly when put under constant tension like this because it is taped into place on the bone after all. The tape is allowing the movement. This means it does not stay put and my anchor points move over time so I can't set a tension and rely on it staying at that tension long term. To resolve this I need a mechanical connection at the tension point anchoring location.

Artbyrobot 09/06/2025 (Sat) 17:18:02 No.41185

To mechanically connect my anchor point, I have decided to use tiny self tapping screws. I have avoided screwing into the bones till now but I'm making an exception here. The screws won't be going that deep and the finger bones are unlikely to break anyways IMO. So I feel comfortable with this. Here's the screws I ordered for this from Amazon:

Artbyrobot 09/06/2025 (Sat) 17:18:41 No.41186

Next, I created a tensioner for the middlemost archimedes pulley. That pulley was creating significant drag and slowing down the finger extension during testing due to rope friction. So adding a tensioner line to pull it back down toward the fingers during extension was my solution for this. It worked amazingly well. To make this, first I tied off a fishing hook eye to the bottom of the radius bone just above where my TPFE guide tubing entrance is. Then I glued a 7cm piece of bracelet cord to a piece of 6lb test .08mm braided pe fishing line with 401 glue. I secured the top of the bracelet cord to the top of the archimedes pulley system and then threaded the other end through the fishing hook eye and back up and to the bottom of the archimedes pulley where I tied it off. So it ties off at top, comes down to bottom, goes through the fishing eye then comes back up and connects to my pulley. It creates just enough downward pull to delete the rope drag slowing down that pulley from coming down and this enables the system to unwind and extend back to its starting point after each time I contracts/pulls upward to cause finger contraction. This means the finger extension now happens swiftly with no hangups and the whole archimedes pulley system is now under constant tension at all times which keeps things neat and prevents tangling issues pre-emptively. This rig was a massive success and took up hardly ANY space at all. I put the post it notes behind the archimedes pulley tensioner so you can see it. It's hard to see otherwise without a contrasting backdrop. It works amazingly well.

Chobitsu 09/06/2025 (Sat) 18:23:38 No.41189

>>41184 >>41185 >>41186 Congratulations on the tensioner prototyping success! Little details like this can turn out to be important in the overall scheme of things. I'm glad to see you methodically approaching the problems one-by-one and solving them. Keep it up, Anon! Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 09/10/2025 (Wed) 17:14:24 No.41447

Back on the electronics again. Have been going over my BLDC motor schematic and making some little tweaks to it. Here's the updated schematic. It's a combination of lots of other schematics I've found online as well as some chatgpt help. With 1 being no clue and 10 being absolute expert tier in BLDC motor schematics I'm probably a 5 IMO. So take my design with a grain of salt. It will be very fun to see if it works. Note that I put a couple schematics of Electronoobs - a great youtuber on the left hand side as reference and study material. My schematic is the big one on the right. Electronoobs series of videos on BLDC motor controllers has been extremely helpful in me forming a rudimentary understanding of this stuff.

Chobitsu 09/10/2025 (Wed) 17:24:36 No.41448

>>41447 That seems like a lot of current, Anon. Better plan for thick conductors and lots of heat removal! Glad to see you can work on electronics again. Keep moving forward! Cheers. :^)

Ribose 09/11/2025 (Thu) 14:17:41 No.41465

>>41447 It almost reminds me of a human heart.

Chobitsu 09/11/2025 (Thu) 15:47:19 No.41469

>>41465 Very intredasting observation, Ribose! I can see it. :^)

Robowaifu Technician 09/13/2025 (Sat) 19:21:56 No.41569

>>41447 If you install something like kicad or LTSpice you can make better and more readable schematics

GreerTech 09/13/2025 (Sat) 19:32:20 No.41570

>>41569 I never truly appreciated orderly electrical schematics until now. Reminds me of early 1900s magazine schematics

Chobitsu 09/14/2025 (Sun) 18:13:24 No.41614

>>41569 Good advice, Anon. Thanks! :^)

Artbyrobot 09/15/2025 (Mon) 18:48:04 No.41652

>>41569 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pE9f_bEhd4o Did that already. But I prefer my custom hand drawn for studying and planning really. Easier for me to see and take notes etc. I was considering having a PCBA company do some of the pcb making but now plan to do it solo to learn more and eventually teach the robot to do it for me.

Chobitsu 09/16/2025 (Tue) 00:14:54 No.41665

>>41652 >based Maya knower <---> FWIW: I actually do believe in you and your project here. I remember the very first post you made here on the board and I was immediately struck with the grand scope of it! KEEP MOVING FORWARD, ANON

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 09/16/2025 (Tue) 00:56:19.

Artbyrobot 09/19/2025 (Fri) 17:48:14 No.41750

I started some testing on some subsections of the BLDC motor controller and ran into some problems and learned several things. I'm working with chatgpt to resolve each issue and have been updating my schematic to reflect alot of the changes I am making. One thing I learned is that for the high side switch, the voltage from gate to source has to be 10-12v higher than the drain voltage because the drain voltage becomes the same as the source voltage once the switch is on. The voltage from gate to source then either has to start out as motor input voltage + 12 while still fitting within the voltage from gate to source max allowed voltage as stated by the datasheet or it has to rise dynamically as the source voltage rises such that the voltage from gate to source is 12 more than the source voltage as the source voltage rises to become the drain voltage. Fortunately, I can have the former for this 2430 motor since I can use 6-8.4v to supply the motor and the voltage from gate to source max value is 20v. This means I can use voltage from gate to source of 20v and this, when mosfet is first switched on, does not fry mosfet but as the source rises to become 8.4v, 20v-8.4v is still 11.6v which is sufficiently high to enable the mosfet to still stay on without anything dynamic set up. If I want to go with a 12v motor supply on some of the bigger motors later on, I will need a bootstrap circuit to supply the highside mosfet with a dynamic voltage from gate to source that rises when source voltage rises. So I added that schematic diagram to this as well as an option. I also can use a mosfet driver for this but was hoping to cut that cost and added volume taken up by just using discrete components rather than a IC for this. Anyways, to break things down even more in testing, I decided to just test turning on and off a single highside mosfet using a pair of lab power supplies, one to provide 20v and one to provide 8.4v. To turn on I connected the gate and source to my 20v lab power supply and I connected my red alligator clip of my 8.4v lab power supply to the drain and then measured from source to the black lead of the 8.4v power supply and verified 8v on that test which worked - proving the mosfet was in fact on. I then removed the black alligator clip of the 20v lab power supply from source and shorted the source to the gate to drain the internal capacitor inside the mosfet and then tested from source to the black 8.4v clip and sure enough it was near 0v so was off. But it did gradually climb back up to 8.4v after the short from gate to source was removed due to capacitive coupling and leakage according to chatgpt. So I will need to add a 10k ohm resistor between gate and source pins to short it automatically and keep it fully drained and off fully when it's supposed to be off.

Artbyrobot 09/19/2025 (Fri) 17:48:37 No.41751

So I plan to just gradually add components little by little and test after each thing is added to ensure it is working right still after each little change and this way gradually build out the circuit, proving each thing works as we go. This is because things have all these gotchas and "oh you didn't know this little detail?" that keeps coming up and proves it was more complicated than I thought. So I just have to prove every little thing as I go. To try to find out what is wrong after the whole thing is built would be WAY harder than to figure out what went wrong when a single component is added and it was working before said component was added. So that's how I will be able to overcome this challenge best I feel. Note: Reminder: I am building a custom BLDC motor controller because an off the shelf one would not have enough miniaturization to fit into the tight space constraints I have to work with. Also, building my own gives my software more precise control of every little advancement of the rotating magnetic field and along with that I'll have the ability to PWM the advancements to make them more smooth, less noisy, and have torque control as well this way which means the fingers can be rough and fast in movement as needed or slow and gentle and dainty or slow but powerful etc. I can also create acceleration profiles that match human finger joint acceleration in order to have the movements look very natural just like a human's movements which is very important to me. Just alot of fine precision is possible when its all my own circuit I feel. While off the shelf ones may have some of this functionality, the price often reflects that and is then prohibitive. But in any case nothing is off the shelf with this level of control AND the ability to so finely tune its form factor and volume envelope to fit my exact needs in space on a per motor basis.

Chobitsu 09/19/2025 (Fri) 19:29:42 No.41755

>>41750 >>41751 >So I plan to just gradually add components little by little and test after each thing is added to ensure it is working right still after each little change and this way gradually build out the circuit, proving each thing works as we go. This is because things have all these gotchas and "oh you didn't know this little detail?" that keeps coming up and proves it was more complicated than I thought. So I just have to prove every little thing as I go. I think that's how learning complex phenomenon often go -- at least if you're meaning to make something actually work (as engineers do). Conversely, a research scientist once remarked to me during dinner that they had it easy in this regard, since they can just talk about how things are! :D

Artbyrobot 10/21/2025 (Tue) 14:28:31 No.42398

Well I finally got back to the electronics after about a month long detour real life interruption. All kinds of stuff slowed my progress on this session. But I got stuff done nonetheless. 0603 LED to 0805 resistor and some nickel strip leads coming off. Tested and working. This will be the indicator light for when the lowside mosfet comes on for one section of the custom BLDC motor controller. 0603 LEDs are extremely tiny for hand soldering and they don't take solder well either. I was originally going to go with blue LEDs but chatgpt said that would give off a unrealistic color through the silicone skin so orange would be better to give a more natural and less silicone skin piercing indicator light. Somehow I ran out of 470ohm resistors so I had to order more and I used my 200ohm ones instead for now. Which are a bit too bright. But chatgpt said I can diffuse the LED with a glob of silicone tinted black to darken and diffuse the light it gives off which sounds like a good idea to me. I am planning to use wire wrapping wire to come off of this assembly and tie into things. Somehow just attaching these two parts and testing it took me almost 3 hours. Between studying the schematic to refresh my memory on what is going on, visualizing placement options, overheating and destroying one LED, trying to locate the right color LEDs, shopping for replacement 470ohm resistors, researching and substituting in 200ohm resistors, discussing LED color options with chatgpt, figuring out how to solder a 0603 LED directly to a 0805 resistor part to part by hand, accidentally breaking a part off of its nickel strip lead and having to redo the connection, etc etc. All of it just crawls. Hard to stay patient with electronics sometimes and I do things in inefficient ways often. Learning what can and aught not to be done is tough from a patience perspective. But I insist on trial and error and experimentation which takes time. I just need to get into a daily habit to stick with it till completion. It's all complicated. Trying to figure out how to electronically isolate it all next. Thinking of using lamination plastic taped around it all so I can still see it all and visually troubleshoot. Also I'm considering how I can use solder wick braid as a heat pipe for each mosfet and run that over to the liquid cooling system. But it can't conduct. So thermally it can conduct but electrically it can't. Trying to figure out whether to create a barrier of micah or just thermal silicone for this and the routing needed. Also considering if I need mini coaxial shielded cable for the wiring of each or just regular wire wrapping wire when going from microcontroller to mosfets etc. Also trying to figure out if I need hall effect sensors or back emf reading or no feedback but my potentiometer and the implications of each option. Just so much to consider in all of this. And all of those considerations also slow things down even more as I have to make decisions on it all. It's quite overwhelming.

Chobitsu 10/21/2025 (Tue) 14:37:07 No.42399

>>42398 It's so wee! :D >200ohm resistors Couldn't you have used a 1K? >Thinking of using lamination plastic taped around it all I can highly recommend Kapton tape as a fantastic general-use one, & well-suited to this specific need. --- Anyway, nice work Anon. Glad to see you back at it! Patience & Godspeed, Artbyrobot. Cheers. :^)

Edited last time by Chobitsu on 10/21/2025 (Tue) 14:55:55.

Artbyrobot 11/02/2025 (Sun) 18:46:04 No.42643

Ok so I decided to use 30 gauge wire wrapping wire and wire wrap that onto my nickel strips that I connected onto my LED setup then trim off any excess nickel strip. What I like about this is this wire is very fine so it takes up hardly any space and by being able to wrap it on I did not have to apply heat which could have desoldered my smd components by accident. I also like that it is already insulated and color coded so I don't have to worry about insulating my nickel strips the whole run to wherever this connects. To insulate the whole LED contraption here I used packing tape so I can see all my components well but still have them electrically isolated. I just folded the packing tape over the whole assembly like closing a book over a bookmark. note: after wire wrapping the wire wrapping wire I noticed it was not that tight on there. I did not use a wire wrapping tool because I lost mine so I just used needle nose tweezers to manually wrap it around and around. Anyways to tighten it well I just crimped it with the tip of my wire strippers that has some kind of toothed pliers that crimps things well. After doing that the connection appears very solid.

Chobitsu 11/02/2025 (Sun) 19:12:01 No.42644

>>42643 Wire-wrapping is a very-good approach. If you want things to last (like 100yrs isn't unreasonable), then wire-wrapping is worth the extra effort/expense. Always solder afterwards, ofc. >not soldered Hope it holds for you, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Artbyrobot 11/02/2025 (Sun) 22:52:56 No.42645

>Always solder afterwards, ofc Soldering makes the metal become brittle and with back and forth bending it breaks. Soldering then introduces weakness and should be avoided at all costs IMO unless if you can make the wire 100% stationary and supported at that joint and introduce strain relief later on. Wire wrapping does not ever get soldered traditionally. The tightness of the wrap and redundancy of many turns ensures solid electrical connectivity without cutouts. I don't plan to ever solder if I can avoid it. I've had countless wires break inside that were soldered. I avoid it now.

Chobitsu 11/02/2025 (Sun) 23:08:59 No.42646

>>42645 >Wire wrapping does not ever get soldered traditionally. I've known plenty of cases where it does. Doing both gives you a "100 Year" connection. >flexure is detrimental True, with or without solder.

Artbyrobot 11/03/2025 (Mon) 01:26:43 No.42647

>>42646 i never have wires snap randomly unless I soldered them because it gets brittle by the solder point plus goes from rigid where hte solder is to flexing where the solder starts so that precise point takes ALL the flex and becomes a concentration point that also happens to be the very brittle part which is a death sentence for that exact spot. The flexing in all other spots is a non issue but that specific spot it breaks every time.

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