>>44063 >SPUD already did a faceplant last year. Yeah I remember that ouchie. I was worried about her! :) >I could probably modify SPUD's current stand to be a rolling gantry. Great, I figured so. And it doesn't even need to reach overhead IMHO -- just be high enough (possibly about the waist zone) to provide sufficient lateral support to avoid tipping over. --- >more stable; better turning I bet it will give dear SPUD more womanly curves too! :D >I think I might put SPUD's battery in a shoulder bag or something for her to wear. It would be funny. That should work. If you're going to have her trotting about the convention floor, then you should keep it's inertial moments in mind, design wise. At the least I'd suggest keeping it tightly "buttoned down", and not free-swinging. Good luck, Mechnomancer. Cheers. :)

>>43934 Good points, Anon.

>>44052 Thank you :) I do agree that wheeled systems are the most cost-effective and practical for now. However, I agree with Chobitsu >>44055 It's clear that SPUD and MaidCom are frontier designs, with a lot of RnD into new capabilities. I do hope there are other Galatea-esque models come out soon.

>>44066 You're right, GreerTech. We need pursuit of both lines of R&D (and more!). Cheers. :)

Been dealing with some personal affairs, but now have finally gotten around to installing SPUD's new hips n stuff. I might use some more ASMC-04s for the legs/knees instead of my home-brew acme screw linear actuator system to make things easier to control. Probably replace those cylinders with versions more aesthetically pleasing. Depending how things go I might also remove the torso tilt servo so I could put a few 20V tool batteries into its place.

>>44116 POTD Sorry to hear about issues going on for you but I'm happy to hear you're now past them seemingly. >finally gotten around to installing SPUD's new hips n stuff. This is VERY EXCITING!! To be honest, I've longed for this progress for many a day. >instead of my home-brew acme screw linear actuator system to make things easier to control Actually I liked your ACME design. Only just shy of those Super Genius(tm)(r)(c)(do not steal) rocket skates of yours... :DD What was the control problem with them do you think? Seems like they were relatively compact & lightweight AFAICT. >Depending how things go I might also remove the torso tilt servo so I could put a few 20V tool batteries into its place. That's certainly a prime spot to locate such masses. And I've thought often that (during this era, especially [we can do custom, more-optimized packs later on]) such modular tool battery packs would be a good choice, given their broad availability & compatibility & fairly-rugged durability. Good luck, Mechnomancer. Godspeed. :)

>>44066 >>44067 Almost comically, I'm now considering using two of the little 4-wheel car bases * for my foot/ankle/shin/knee experiments now that I've put the Holowaifu explorations on hold and don't currently need the little mobile tracking marker car. >tl;dr Prototype inexpensive wheeled, wide-foot designs (Roll-style), building the bipedalism literally from the ground up. I'll post picture links in teh Prototyping thread when I have some progress worth reporting. --- * cf. ( >>43082, ...) et al

>>44117 Personal affairs are still ongoing but at least good end is in sight. Anyways... >ACME screw actuator issues It requires more diy hardware than just using a standard servo. Digital i/o board, analog to digital converter, extra coding... I could control acme screw actuators using standard servoboards but I would be limited to a certain speed or risk oscillation. Using a standard servo controlled by an i2c servo controller such as the PCA9685 is just easier. Starting to rough out the basic leg system. 2x ASMC motors in the thighs (thigh/knee bend) and 2 of those larger 70kg servos in the shins to manipulate foot angle. These will have to be split into several parts to fit on my printer, since both my big printers are having extrusion issues.

>>44212 >Using a standard servo controlled by an i2c servo controller such as the PCA9685 is just easier. Heh, OK fair enough Anon. :D >Starting to rough out the basic leg system. I like the way this is shaping up so far! >since both my big printers are having extrusion issues. I hope you can resolve that quickly, Mechnomancer. Are they having nozzle or hot end issues?

>>44212 I'm excited to see truly opensauce DIY legs! Sorry about the personal issues. I have faith that you can deal with them.

>>44213 2/3 printers are having extrusion issues. I think both might be memory errors, as I left 1 printer off/unplugged for months at a time and then started it up for the lulz and it worked for a bit until randomly under extruding. Other printer is simply underextruding when starting a new layer, no matter what settings I tweak. I might try re-flashing the firmware. >>44218 Yeah, opensauce DIY full size legs would be nice, and I'm trying to keep it simple as possible. I'll certainly be building an overhead gantry to help SPUD get used to walking. Big problem I've seen is folks dressing up simple robots to make 'em look more complex. While that is good for youtube views it isn't too good for doing IRL stuff. Personal issues are (hopefully) almost concluded. I feel like toby mcguire stopping the subway train in spiderman 2 XD The leg parts have just about all the greebles and nurnies they need, however a single thigh piece is... a rather chonky print. I'd rather not run my printer for over a day straight just in case something screwy happens. So I'll be slicing up the model some more.

>>44219 Hmm. Do you think the filament friction feed might be slipping? >I might try re-flashing the firmware. Could be helpful. Always makes me nervous lol. :D

@Mechnomancer I'm pleased to report that /mecha/ lives again! BTW, heres an intredasting question I figured you might just know the answer to? https://trashchan.xyz/mecha/thread/138.html#990

>>44220 The sovol could be a slippy feed wheel as it has never been replaced. No reason why my max neo would still be having some extrusion problems despite an entirely new direct drive system. Will be tweaking both of them when I get the chance/it becomes necessary. For now I'll just putter along with my ender3 While I've been working on the legs (reveal for those later, as I have to re-print several parts) SPUD's face has also been getting some attention: servo eyebrows and a more stable pi holder. I also found a USB cam about the same size as the raspi cam, so that eliminates the problem of not enough raspi display/cam ports

>>44310 >>44310 >>44310 Wow her face is really coming along now, Mechnomancer.

>>44310 >The sovol could be a slippy feed wheel as it has never been replaced. Oh yeah, definitely check that. On my old Ender 3 v2, most of the problems were from the filament feeder. I like how the face is progressing!

First iteration of leg is almost complete. Will be re-printing the shin servo holder so it is more thin. Then I start fabricating metal bits: bracket on the hip, servo horns/linkages for the hip/knee rotation, then balljoint linkages for the ankles. First stage of 2 (or possibly 4, depending how stage 2 goes) for silicone face is also complete, but I'll be waiting to post that until the process is complete in case it is a bust. There is already too many creepy silicone robit faces on the internet and I don't wanna contribute :D

>>44343 It's looking good so far! You should document this, it will revolutionize DIY robotics

>>44343 POTD >There is already too many creepy silicone robit faces on the internet This. >and I don't wanna contribute :D Based. Looking forward to the first leg prototype arrangements, Mechnomancer. Cheers.

>>44344 > it will revolutionize DIY robotics Is that how revolutionizing works? just slapping a bunch of stuff together hoping it will work? :D >>44349 slimmer ankle servo block took like 18 hours to print. But it is indeed slimmer. I'll try to slim down the leg a bit by offsetting the knee servo, and I might end up giving her some platform shoes to fit a pair of 40v batteries in... megaman-style boots/legs might be a good choice to fit all the power converters and stuff into.

>>44357 Nice progress. Will the pvc tube be strong enough to support anything? All my admittedly underwhelming experience with this stuff suggest it is pretty fragile.

>>44357 >Is that how revolutionizing works? just slapping a bunch of stuff together hoping it will work? :D Absolutely.

>>44357 Neat. I'd suggest you consider not locating such mass as batteries at the distal ends of limbs. Thrown weight and watnot. BTW, do you have a recommendation on batteries? I'm currently considering power for the cart waifu project.

>>44359 ^

>>44358 >le pvc I use schedule 40 pvc, nearly built an entire mech out of it. So I certainly know its limitations. Short segments are where its strength excels, anything over a foot or so is prone to sagging and snapping. >>44363 Batteries in the robowaifu's feets would help her stay upright, its not like I'm trying to get her to run or anything (walking would be a victory for me), and it seems to go well for the wowee robit line. I like using tool batteries because it already has a charger, battery circuitry, and durable casing (in case robit fall down), but depending on your battery voltage you'll need quite a power converter to take advantage of it (picrel)

>>44368 Thanks very kindly for the advice. I'll keep it in mind. Cheers, Anon.

>>44363 Leg is pretty much 3d printed. Even though there are some spots I don't like the entire thing is pretty stable. Next step is to cut some angle iron and flat iron into the asmc-04 servohorns and linkages.

>>44379 CHONK!

>>44380 >CHONK If being a little thicc is what it takes to keep SPUD from exploding on impact, bring on the thighs!

>>44381 /thread

SPUD leg is almost complete: it even stands by itself. I just need to reprint a few parts as the linkages need more clearance to fully extend. I'll also probably cut down the width of the metal linkages, since they're made out of 3/16" steel. That big piece of angle iron was part of a bundle of materials donated to me by an irl fan a few years ago. Also due to tolerances this will probably end up being the left leg instead of the right. At least I printed both feet so swapping should be easy :D Then I suppose I should design some feets to hold the batteries. That's gonna add a few more inches to her 5' 4" height.

>>44385 POTD Really proud of you, Mechnomancer! Looking forward to your further refinements on these and the operational prototyping. Have you figured out some kind of gantry + harness type thing to facilitate your walking research yet? Its very cool that the individual legs can stand up alone. Keep moving forward.

>>44379 >>44385 Nice, it's looking really professional!

@Mechnomancer This video mentions a smol SPI-to-CAN converter board; both topics we've discussed before. Thought you might be intredasted. Cheers, Anon. :) https://inv.nadeko.net/watch?v=6Lgqm0KW-0g

>>44401 >Open source robit with manual >cloud-based control program >shite documentation with no step-by-step instructions just explanations of random-ass concepts >pretentious robit name of "asimov" >like a 3 foot midget kek I consulted t̶h̶e̶ ̶o̶r̶a̶c̶l̶e̶ chatgpt and got recommended MuJoCo which seems to be an actual robit walking training program (so no hallucinations there). I'll be looking into it to train SPUD to walk. There hasn't been much updates to the leg other than getting the knee to actually bend. So I'm starting to print the entire next leg.

>>44410 Lol, true. :D >MuJoCo >I'll be looking into it to train SPUD to walk. Good luck! Eagerly looking forward to a positive report, Mechnomancer. >other than getting the knee to actually bend. I don't take that lightly, and in fact I'm excited by the progress. Cheers Anon.

You should really update your website, it still has "Lorem ipsum dolor"

>>44567 >update website yeah, I know After printing out the entire 2nd leg I realized I need to re-design the knee servo so the 550 motor on it faces out, not in. D'oh!

>>44571 Nice work! It looks just like a "professional" humanoid robot! *Professional being in quotes because I do not think that institutions are inherently superior

>>44571 POTD Looking forward to this Anon. Cheers.

Mechnomancer, I made a thread about IRL mechs on /mecha/. The thread is like /robowaifu/, but for mecha https://trashchan.xyz/mecha/thread/1075.html

>>44583 Yeah I saw the thread. I could waffle for hours about IRL mech design but I don't have much free time atm. :)

>>44583 Are you going to add that thread to our new "listings" thread? (cf. >>44504 )

>>44587 Sure. I initially made it for just Trashchan /robowaifu/, but we can add our robowaifu adjacent and robowaifu embassy threads

Its been a while, been doing other stuff that only slightly has to do with robits. Tried a diy silcone face. TLDR: functionally successful but ugly AF. More detail: spread bathroom caulking on a positive mold, using toilet paper as a separation medium. It turned out better than expected: I was able to (gently!) separate the silicone from the mold without any damage (letting the piece cure for 48 hours) and the material is functionally usable. Not very stretchy but rather flexible. However it is ugly AF and I lost quite a bit of detail. Smoothing caulking by hand is too arduous to get good, consistent results. Using a negative mold with cooking spray as a separation medium would probably get better results - making sure to press the silicone into all the corners and not break the surface between the silicone and the separation medium. I know I promised not to contribute to the cringe silicone faces on the internet, but shouldn't be too bad since I recognize it is cringe and you can hardly tell its supposed to be a face :D Next step is to try a negative mold. Then coloring the silicone.

>>44779 Power mesh fabric—typically an 80-90% nylon and 10-20% spandex blend—is an industry-standard material used to reinforce silicone masks. By embedding this four-way stretch fabric within the silicone, makers can dramatically increase the mask's tear resistance while preserving its ability to stretch and move Also Vaseline (petroleum jelly) works excellently as a mold release agent for silicone, particularly for silicone-to-silicone applications. However, because it is thick, it must be applied in an ultra-thin layer to avoid filling in and obscuring fine textures. The positive mold method is by far superior to negative which you are moving to IMO. You just put it on too thick and sloppy IMO. Fine control can be achieved by putting it on thinly and spread it slowly out and you can press a negative of skin texture into it on later passes. Yes I said passes several passes ideally. Suberdermal color passes, semi transparent mid skin color passes, texture passes, surface skin color passes, etc. Building up detail with each pass in color depth and complexity, wrinkles, imperfections, etc. Doing all of this over a positive mold is ideal. Also the silicone should be clear with color mixed into it and each pass semi transparent . To make silicone look and act like real skin, you need to mimic subsurface scattering—the way light enters the tissue and reflects back out with a fleshy, organic warmth. This hyper-realistic effect relies on layering translucent pigments and microfibers rather than applying a single, opaque color.

>>44779 >>44780 Very interesting posts! I'll look forward to seeing how this turns out in the end. Cheers.

>>44779 What I'm learning, is that smooth skin-like silicone, is very difficult to make. Maybe that's why sex dolls are so expensive for what they are.

>>44780 >real skin I'm trying to stay out of the uncanny valley. There are plenty of "realistic" rubberfaces that look creepy af so I'll stick to stylization. Why have realism when you can have better than realism? How about an elephant with blue eyes? >Put it on too thick and sloppy I want to discover a easy, quick method even a lower-skilled anon can use. >positive mold method is by far superior not really, I lost quite a bit of detail around the nose and lips I could try adding more onto this piece, but I'm gonna print a negative mold and see how that works in comparison. Also with a negative mold reinforcing the back with cloth will probably be easier: I could use the cloth backing to "push" the silicone into the mold. However I will need to take more care with the negative mold: the internal surface will need to be smooth-ish. That will probably involve a small layer height (0.1mm, tripling print time) and using aerosol-based primer to smooth it. I'll also be doing some experimenting with flexi-filaments. Did some a while ago but forgot to take a pic. >>44789 > smooth skin-like silicone, is very difficult to make *laughs in latex Halloween masks*

>>44791 POTD >I want to discover a easy, quick method even a lower-skilled anon can use. I'm so proud of you for this, Mechnomancer! :D According to my own personal experience, even low-IQ art students in today's pozzed, DIE-loving Uni environments can get good results with Smooth-on products. https://www.smooth-on.com/ The issue is that it's an entire products sub-industry focused around the kike-run Hollyjew industry; basically priced out of the reach of typical Anons. I doubt not that the based Chinese are producing more-reasonably priced alternatives, now that they are invading this space in a big way. Bears investigation, IMHO. So (FWIW) I'd probably amend that agenda to: >"easy, quick, inexpensive method..." Cheers.