/robowaifu/ - DIY Robot Wives

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kiwi's Tutorials Kiwi 12/17/2021 (Fri) 20:32:59 No.14704
Kiwi here to teach fellow Anons. First is how to make a ball and socket that pop together with side guides. These guides turn it into a universal joint. You can incorporate this design into many different other designs, I recommend using petroleum jelly to smooth out the motion. For reference, the ball is a 12 mm sphere. The socket has an internal 13 mm sphere and the mm difference is necessary at all scales. More tutorials will come. All information is freely given for the sake of catgrill meidos.
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>>14704 >Kiwi here to teach fellow Anons. First is how to make a ball and socket that pop together with side guides. These guides turn it into a universal joint. That's great, thanks for sharing. I've been looking for a guide on how to make ball joints for a 3d printed doll that I'm working on.
>>14706 Thanks Kiwi, have been wondering how to make a socket like that for TX so he can lean his head. Though have not worked out how to get it to lean the desired direction with electronics.
>>14707 >>14709 Glad to have helped. Now for print in place bushings! The distance must be a minimum of .5 mm for Ender 3's , other printers will differ but, .5 should be nearly universal. Both bushing can be revolved in either direction, the examples shown are revolved in the way that has successfully been printed.
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>>14711 To make a holow axle with end caps, start by making a circle then take away the bottom so that it can print flat. Create and offset within to give the axle walls thickness, 1 mm will be fine for very light duty, 2 mm for a very strong axle, 3 mm if you need that axle to bear significant loads (consider a metal insert at this point). The axle can then be extruded to its length. Strain relief then needs to be added at both ends by extruding a vertical rectangles a mm deeper then the plugs. The plugs use the same starter as the axle itself, just add a circle a few mm larger then the hole the axle goes through and extrude the center part out. IMPORTANT: Always fillet or chamfer the mating edges of all designs. I prefer to give my plugs 2 or 3 mm of depth to ensure they have plenty of friction keeping them secure.
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This is wonderful, Kiwi. Thanks very much! I really appreciate all the details you've added, and the pictures of the prints really make things 'real' for me (and others too I'm sure). Keeping this focused on beginners is certainly helpful to me. I think it's really neat that you are beginning with small-ish objects that are both relatively simpler to both understand, and printing results don't take too long to get results. Good stuff for beginners. I am really interested to see the results you and other anons here get, Kiwi. It's also exciting to imagine the future robowaifus we all will be able to make together by sharing all these good ideas and information together here on /robowaifu/. Keep up the great work!
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>>14715 Your kindness continues to be appreciated. Is there any suggestions for tutorials you'd like to see?
>>14737 Honestly, I have so much on my plate ATM that I have little in the way of ideas to off for structural systems. Hmm. Maybe some kinds of small mechanical transducers that are light, cheap, and small. Ones that can be distributed by the dozens around a full-sized robowaifu and communicate structural & actuator status+data back to the robowaifu's central compute cores?
>>14740 >to offer for *
Here is a channel filled with amazing mechanisms that are worth a look.
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Quick guide on making clips. Though most clips have a guide in the center, I have no idea why, the clips naturally center and align themselves. Trying to make the tutorial more pictorial.
>>14855 Thanks Kiwi! This kind of simple & cheap fastening mechanism could easily find 101 uses in a production robowaifu. Securing cabling quickly for example. It would be great if we can find ways to produce modular, interchangeable parts and mechanism for our robowaifus. This design of yours looks like a good step in that direction. Cheers.
>>14940 Creating modular and interchangeable designs is a great idea. I'm thinking we should start developing standard waifu parts.
>>14953 > I'm thinking we should start developing standard waifu parts. I think we will all likely look back on this post and this design phase of your robowaifu career as epochal Anon. Godspeed.
>>14855 >*Random anon wanders by* If this is of interest to you look at the engineering of snap fittings, which is what such "clips" are called. There's a lot more to it. For example, your snap fit uses a return angle of 90 deg, which locks the snap fit. Using a larger return angle makes it possible to pull out the snap fit (i.e. you can tailor the amount of force needed). The material, and fabrication method (e.g. FDM as in your example, or injection molded) all make significant differences to the design and how it functions. Useful resources: 2 books attached + https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-snap-fit-joints-3d-printing/ You may also be interested in things like "living hinges" and "compliant mechanisms" in the future. Best wishes t. engineer
>>15095 Thanks kindly, Anon. I hope you'll have a look around the board while you're here. Please stop by again!
>>15095 >Living hinges >Hobbyist FDM printing Kekw Thanks for the link, I'm sure it will help the other Anons that are learning. I'm fairly certain compliant mechanisms have been mentioned previously, you may learn a thing or two looking around this board. We are lacking in Anons with technical knowledge so, feel free to stay. t. Kiwi :^) (Can someone verify if the pdf's are safe?)
>snap fittings Oh hey, the concept I've been alluding to for the past month. >>15097 They are safe kiwi and illustrate some of the various designs that can be used with snap fittings.
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Quick and easy clamp for 3D printed d shaft mated features. Works with almost all filament, though PETG would be ideal.
>>19413 Very nice work, Kiwi.
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Super simple snap together moving joint. 1. Draw a symmetrical "T" 2. Pull/extrude it 3. Round the edge to make insertion easier 4. Use the measurement of the rectangle that will fill the hole as a guide 5. Draw the rest of your arm, make sure it's long enough to flex around the end of the "T" 6. Draw a rectangle with the tolerance needed to accept the "T" once inserted 7. Round edges to allow for ease of insertion

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