/robowaifu/ - DIY Robot Wives

Advancing robotics to a point where anime catgrill meidos in tiny miniskirts are a reality.

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He was finally living the life he had always wanted, and he owed it all to the mysterious robowaifu.

Prototypes and Failures #2 Robowaifu Technician 01/17/2023 (Tue) 02:10:46 No.18800
Post your prototypes and failures. We fail until we win. From now on with even more madness. Don't forget looking through the old thread >>418 to understand how we got here. >=== -minor subj edit
Edited last time by Chobitsu on 01/17/2023 (Tue) 03:01:26.
>>21271 it is good to focus on all the small things, aside from crafting and art I have my nandroid animated show on the way this year
>>21273 Investing right now is not good and even if it was good you should not expect more than 20% a year... If times are good... Which their not...
>>21274 >aside from crafting and art I have my nandroid animated show on the way this year Neat! Looking forward to it Emmy-Pilled.
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>>21276 thanks, so am I
for people looking for ideas to joints, here is the original King Kong skeleton. I figured there were some good ideas in there
>>21267 >there may be a "makerspace" or public library with a printer you can use >>21269 >stuff printed and then shipped Good ideas I didn't think of that.
>>21149 I'm working on printing some parts, and also optimizing them for shorter print times and other things. I was concerned the poles might get into the way of the arms pulling the strings from above, so I made them a bit kinked. Also added some reinforcements on the bottom, to prevent the poles from breaking off. Hope that helps. Printing time per side is around five hours with high speed but high strength (4 perimeters).
>>21365 Looks interesting, how big is it? Seems like it would be huge if it takes 5 hours per side.
>>21371 No, not really huge. Both sides together are 25 cm, so one side is just 12.5 and the poles have 1.5 cm in diameter. I guess it takes a while because of the four perimeters. But FDM printing just takes some time, tbh. Some of my shells went up to more than two days with some options, or at least 19h with more reasonable ones, but then I cut it down to nine.
>>21365 Looking forward to seeing this all assembled NoidoDev!
>>21371 Can you give us all some tips on speeding up our prints Kiwi?
>>21389 Unfortunately, my printer just stopped working, and since I'm in a transition period, I probably won't fix it right now. I looked into it if it could be fixed easily, but it might be the bed. I'll go on working on the 3D files as good as I can and start sorting the ideas about my approach for the AI during the next two month, then I should have another printer (Anycubic Kobra) anyways.
I'm thinking if getting a dc power supply. Should I get the 30 volt 10 amps one or the 60 volt 5 amps one? The latter is a bit more pricey There's also a 120 volts 3 amps one but I don't think that'd be necessary right?
>>21411 I hope things all clear up for you soon, NoidoDev. >Anycubic Kobra What features made you choose this particular printer Anon?
>>21417 Why not the 30V one Anon? After all, there isn't much general need for anything beyond 24V inside a robowaifu, AFAICT. Hasel actuators notwithstanding. :^)
>>21418 >>Anycubic Kobra >What features made you choose this particular printer Anon? We're getting OT here. I just planned to buy a second cheap printer anyways, and my current one is a direct drive while the other one is a bowden style.
>>21419 I already have 3.3 volt batteries and the thing to put 1 and 2 batteries. I could just get the missing 9 volt battery one. I wonder if I need a dc power supply at all...
I would like to chime in on the subject of supplies. If you wish to contribute you'll have to spend some money. Here are some supplies that I think will be needed. A dc power unit, although not mandatory it is quiet nice A 2 in 1 multimeter oscilloscope is better value than them being separate I think. Sure the oscilloscope on those is kind of crappy but why do we need a super accurate oscilloscope anyways. You can also test faulty transistors with the diodes function. A 3d printer. You can get the cheapest one and most reviews say they're good enough but most people recommend the ender 3. A starter electronics kit, you might want to get extra jumper wires, you know the flat one, just get 580 of those. Maybe an extra big breadboard and a smaller one, etc... You'll also need arduinos sooner rather than later That should be good enough to start.
>>21442 Please do not buy an Ender 3 unless you're willing to learn, tinker, and commit to regular maintenance. They aren't build and use printers, they're build, calibrate and trouble shoot then use. There's a reason why there's endless tutorials related to them. For awhile they were best price to performance printer but, that was years ago. Now, you're much better of with a modern Kingroon, Anycubic, or Voxelab printer. You get more for the money with those. They work with very little setup and maintenance. Kingroon and Anycubic are my recommendation for noobs, they are very easy to setup quickly and print if you're getting started and produce high quality prints with little effort.
>>21450 Thanks for the recommendations Anon, cheers. :^)
>>21417 >Should I get the 30 volt 10 amps one or the 60 volt 5 amps one? Get the 30 volt 10 amp. There's a reason behind this. If I remember correctly there's regulations over 48V that are much more stringent. Under 48V much less. And I may be wrong about this gut it;s a factoid that I remember from somewhere. Ok I looked it up and there are codes above "60V" but most people use 48V because of voltage spikes. So at 48V you don't have to worry about that. Much over that and you can be killed by the voltage, under 60V not likely. SELV or Safety Extra Low Voltage are keywords to search for with this. Just my opinion but I think, or at least I am planning, to use every bit of 48V. Wire size between 48V and 24V is 1/2 for the same power. You also get heating effects from the wire. It turns out you can get close to 200 pounds of lifting power at 48V with a 22 gauge wire (high quality wire). I think we'll need this sort of force to lift people. Also semi-conductors go up in price per amperage which is double at lower voltage. Yet we do not want to go over 48V because of regulations relating to the susceptibility of a shock killing someone. I've been figuring power, wiring size and stuff like that and made some notes. I found some wiring on Amazon Bojack 20AWG Flexible Silicone Stranded Electric Wires $17 (5 Colors 19.69Ft Each Color) total 98.45ft This should be good for 20AWG 11A 528 Watts and the silicone covering gives you high temperature and long lasting wiring protection. http://www.kylesconverter.com/power/watts-to-foot--pounds--force-per-second That 1 W = 1 J/s and 1 Foot-Pound-Force per Second: Approximately 1.3558179483314004 Watts (SI). So 100 Watts to Foot-pounds-force Per Second = 73.7562 (73.7562ft.-lbs. /100W) * W = ft. lbs. or watts * 0.7375626651 = ft. lbs. So 528 Watts gives 389ft.-pounds force but remember we will likely share the power among several muscles so it needs to have some headroom.
>>21450 Thanks for the printer recommendations.
For power for prototyping you could get 4 lead acid batteries and hook in series. Used would be fine and have all the power you need. If you want new ones motorcycle batteries are lower cost if you look around. Here's a great site for new and used lithium batteries. Here's a link to one set I bought. They were for back-up power supplies and pack a huge peak current value. https://batteryhookup.com/products/super-beast-module-with-48-headway-38120-hp-3-2v-8ah-24v They're used but they mostly sat around charged all the time for backup.
Using the above battery wired to 48V and, "...Over an 8-hour work shift, an average, healthy, well-fed and motivated manual laborer may sustain an output of around 75 watts of power...." So you have basically enough power for 16 hours at that rate.
>>21489 Yeah I decided not to buy the DC power unit and just use the lithium 3.7 volt batteries I bought tbh. They're even rechargeable.
Okay so I just found out hasel actuators use dc not ac power... Which is bad since transformers output ac power. However, I also found out hasel actuators require low current which is good cause transformers also have lower current... If it does work I just think it'll be alternating between compressing the bag and decompressing very rapidly I think. But anyways I'll test that when I get back home. Surprised nobody else is testing this... :^)
>>21487 >Ok I looked it up and there are codes above "60V" but most people use 48V because of voltage spikes. So at 48V you don't have to worry about that. Much over that and you can be killed by the voltage, under 60V not likely. I once read up on a longer discussion on this. It's way more complicated than just looking at the voltage. How much body surface is exposed matters, same of how much someone was sweating, and the amount of energy that can be drawn from a source.
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95A TPU printed with PLA settings. 1 wall at .8mm with 9% infil. Hollow, only 4mm thick skin. Incredibly durable and the infill between two thin walls feels somewhat skin like. TPU makes unpleasant noise when rubbing against itself. This is my best version of this concept so far. Soft waifu's are possible but, further research must be one. I now believe that TPU skin over PLA or PETG bones is the correct option. This is being done because shortly after building a mannequin waifu, I accidentally destroyed her through careless snuggling. A waifu must survive aggression in bed to be worth making.
>>21507 Okay so I just thought of something. If I combine two alternating square waves it ends up being like one dc wave right?
>>21556 Tpu? I thought we were going for food grade silicon.
>>21556 Great. Seem to work surprisingly well, though it depends on what can of wrinkles one is okay with. Maybe my whole experimentation with teardrops and such maybe wasn't necessary? >>17630 - Though this was meant to a huge extend for the tissue deeper below the skin and therefore also for thicker parts, but also for a generally heavier build. >>21558 >we were going for food grade silicon. For prototyping this might be better, also the silicon could be added on top of it. If we want layers, maybe with sensors inside, then the body can't just be molded in one step.
>>21557 Well I just asked chatgpt and it told me that two alternating square waves is not like dc, it it is dc. How about that. It also said that if you input a square wave a transformer will output a square wave. So all I have to do is get a couple of non bulky high voltage transformer circuits, make a circuit that outputs two square alternating square waves and voila. The square waves can be generated with 555 timers although it's not perfect it'll do I think.
>>21563 I also asked asked chatgpt if I can use acetone+styrofoam for silicon casting and this is what it said. >Yes, it is possible to use styrofoam and acetone to make a mold for silicone. This process is known as "lost-PLA casting" or "burnout casting". I don't want to get hooked on that chatgpt though lol I know they'll start charging money for it this year...
>>21566 I would highly suggest for making "mother-molds" for silicone to use cheap casting-filler like boat-repair or liquid polyester as seen here >>19234 you can get entire kilo-buckets of it for cheap and it´s dry within 20-30 min (just make sure to be in a well-ventilated or outdoor area when using it)
>>21567 What could be cheaper than acetone + styfoam though
By the way chatgpt kept saying sex bots objectified women and was bad for marginalized groups. I'm like lol. First off what do "marginalized groups" have to do with any of this. Secondly women have no issue objectifying themselves either way. Ridiculous.
>>21569 the things I just listed, you can get them at fairly low prices and very high quantities
>>21563 Oh no I agree the body can't be solid, it needs to be hollow. Which is why the silicon needs to be poured and spread throughout the mold. There is a term for it but I forgot the name. It also ought to be separate the head, the torso, the 2 arm/leg sections, etc and later bonded together. I'm also wondering if silicon is flexible enough for the elbows. But I think it is specially if it's hollow. I thought of making the boobs and butt out of latex but I think we ought to keep it as simple as possible for robot waifu version 1.
>>21557 This is what a bridge rectifier does. >>21558 Others are, I'm still on the fence. Silicone has plenty of problems. >>21563 Just using infill can approximate the benefits of the teardrops. >>21565 You're making an AC generator. 555 timers can be used for such but are not ideal for such. Please look into this further, beyond ChatGPT. Going to a library is recommended. >>21566 This is dangerous and unecessary, please listen to Emmy-Pilled. They are objectively correct and have real world evidence backing up their advice in the Nandroid thread. >>21572 You are referring to slush casting. https://support.polytek.com/hc/en-us/articles/360046061134-What-is-slush-casting-and-what-products-can-I-use-to-do-this- Silicone is a generic term for a polymer which incorporates silloxane into its makeup. There are potentially endless variations depending on which copolymers are used. A polymers ability to bend is called plasticity. There are several copolymers that will enhance silloxanes plasticity, these are generally called plasticizers. Though I you provided no measurements related to this hypothetical elbow, I feel safe in assuming that the majority of silicones will work for your aplication as most have extreme plasticity and the elasticity to stretch over a similar arc that a human elbows skin is subjected to.
>>21573 I like the alternating square wave idea better though. I think the bridge rectifier is kind of wavy and there's a lot of power loss by doing it that way. I get the impression that alternating square waves is more efficient.
>>21572 >boobs and butt out of latex Why? Silicone is the most flexible and the medical one is probably the most skin friendly and probably the least dangerous in terms of micro dust coming from it (if there's any).
>>21576 Well seems like the more conventional way of generating dc from ac is a full wave rectifier I guess. Either way I think I'm getting ahead of myself for the time being. First I ought to see if the thing moves at all.
>>21578 Sorry I mean the bridge rectifier
Okay I'm back home and I just got done extra stuff(a lot which I didn't need I think but I don't like waiting for parts) Anyways here was one of my attempts... I think the current is just going through the aluminum foil and back into the end of the gator clips.
>>21613 Exciting times Anon! I think you'll solve things if you just don't quit. Keep Moving Forward! and get yourself a double-pair of rubber dishwashing gloves to use during your experiments! :^) --- BTW, seems we could already use a Prototypes and Failures #3 thread, OP >=== -combine posts
Edited last time by Chobitsu on 03/31/2023 (Fri) 09:27:59.
>>21616 Okay, that's a surprise. I'll look into it. I'd like to do something similar than before with the pics, but maybe a different background color and of course with the newer pics. Maybe one with only the new pics.
>>21616 Suggestions for the thread. If I don't react to the approval, you'll have to wait or make it yourself, since I won't be able to for at least a few days. Also, I can't change the collages after tonight (EU time).
>>21641 These are all fine, just use your own discretion NoidoDev.
>>21645 Thank you.

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