/robowaifu/ - DIY Robot Wives

Advancing robotics to a point where anime catgrill meidos in tiny miniskirts are a reality.

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Prototypes and Failures #3 NoidoDev ##eCt7e4 03/31/2023 (Fri) 19:20:29 No.21647
Post your prototypes and failures. We fail until we win. From now on with even more madness, while the prototypes are starting to look cute and have extras. Don't forget looking through the old threads here >>418 and here >>18800 to understand how we got to where we are now.
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I'm about to give up. I've tried many things and I don't see this hasel actuator experiment working even if I got solid metal plates. >=== -merge edit
Edited last time by Chobitsu on 03/31/2023 (Fri) 19:24:46.
>>21643 Don't give up Anon! This stuff is hard work, and the some of the toughest bits are always when you're getting started. Just keep at it and you'll eventually figure things out. We're all behind you, Gambatte!! :^)
>>21643 This would be a bummer. I wish this would succeed.
>>21649 >>21651 I don't know what to do the next though. I think that thing generates atleast 10kv since the arc is like a cm long. Do I find another way to raise the voltage even higher or what? I don't think that'd make that bag move still.
>>21653 I took the exact measurement if the arc and it's half a cm. But still I think 1 cm is 30kv.
>>21647 >realize my failed torso is in pic no. 1
Open file (4.67 MB 4128x2580 Foil.jpg)
>>21643 Your almunimum foil needs to be separated. You're losing all your power to sparks and heating your aluminum. Please flatten your aluminum with plenty of separation space between them. Picrel as a guide.
>>21680 do I connect the negative to one piece of foil and the positive to the other or do I connect them both?
>>21698 I think the current must be flowing back for the sparks to be generated at the gator clips I do have some high voltage diodes though. I might try using those. Thought?
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>>21703 I tried with the diodes. The red gator clips still sparks :/
>>21703 Your aluminum needs greater separation still. Your gator clip likely has some pitting preventing full contact with the metal it's clipping onto. Perhaps an easier project would be better to start with? HASEL actuators are extremely difficult and finicky to work with. There's good reason why I and basically everyone else outside of research labs gave up on them. I don't want you stop, just pause and work on other easier projects to build up your knowledge and confidence.
>>21705 I find it hard to believe two pieces of foil paper can generate enough strength to squeeze that bag I think... Oh well... It'd be better if someone was working on it if it isn't going to be me though. .
>>21706 >I find it hard to believe two pieces of foil paper can generate enough strength to squeeze that bag My understanding is they are simply being used to create near-field EMR, and the oil itself is responding to that effect--and bringing the plastic bladder along for the ride? Ofc, it's the bladder that's the external means of actuation; the interior oil is the vehicle for that motion. Correct me if I'm wrong Anons. >=== -minor edit
Edited last time by Chobitsu on 04/03/2023 (Mon) 15:12:36.
Open file (556.03 KB 2790x2160 Plates.png)
>>21706 The aluminum plates don't generate forces. They're merely a conductive substrate for the EMR fields that squeeze the bag. >>21710 You're almost right, the oil does not react with the EMR field, that's why it is important it is not conductive, or is strongly dielectric. The plates build up charge from a high voltage source, then those plates attract each other based on the difference of charges carried by their respective EMR fields. It's exactly the same phenomenon known as static cling; where two dissimilar objects can rub against each other and build up charge then stick to each other. Like a balloon rubbed on cloth or hair for example. Electrostatic cling can carry high forces given substantial surface area. This force can then move any working fluid that won't short the charges. Air actually works, its low dielectric strength leads it to be useless though as the charge differential needed for significant force would simply arc through bag. Oil is used because many oils are great at resisting the electric charge, preventing arcs and allowing the charge differential to persist on the plates.
>>21713 Thanks for the great explanation Kiwi. I understand it clearly now.
>>21714 I think you got it right the first time and I just misread your post. I enjoy explaining things to much sometimes.
>>21713 Thank you for the explanation... But how do I fix it? The current is flowing to the red gator clips somehow even though the tin foil paper is separated... The bag is made out of silicon. Silicon is a semi conductor. I like it better than plastic because it looks like it has more strength. Should I use diodes?
>>21716 As stated early, your clips have pitting from earlier hV work. (HV arcs caused the surface of the metal of the clip to have pits and holes which allows for micro arcs do to a lack of firm connection.) You should just wrap and insulate weird directly. https://hackaday.com/2018/05/04/ask-hackaday-whatever-happened-to-wire-wrapping/ The bag is made of silicone not silicon. It's a silloxane based material. Though there's significant amounts of silicon in it, the ability to act as a semiconductor should not be present. Unless you got some very special bags designed to be semi conductive, which given their cost and rarity, is highly unlikely. The bag you have now should be fine. As for fixing the whole thing, I still think you're better off with something else for now.
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>>21717 I took off the gator clips. Now no energy is lost to sparks. When I turn it on it just makes noise though. I think needs to be done is either rectify the ac or slow it down. Maybe the frequency is so high that it's just enough to make noise but not enough to make it squeeze the bag. I have a couple or arduinos I think they can be used to modify the frequency. I also have a shitty dso150 scope but if I use it on the high voltage thing it might break.
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>>21718 I tried to make a full bridge rectifier circuit but it didn't work.
>>21763 I found out the diodes are shorted. Working with high voltage is kind of a pain in the ass.
>>21718 >>21763 >>21764 Good efforts, and research insights Anon. Persistence is the key to success. Keep moving forward.
>>21766 Thank you. I don't have high voltage diodes but I have 100 n4007 diodes. I found out that if you put them in series they turn into high voltage resistant diodes. I'm not a fan of soldering though.
>>21779 >I found out that if you put them in series they turn into high voltage resistant diodes. Very clever! >I'm not a fan of soldering though. I'm sure you'll get better at it Anon. After all, hundreds of solders will be needed for real robowaifus! Cheers, keep up the good work. :^)
>>21807 For done reason the n4007 diodes are able to handle the voltage. Unlike my dso150 scope... It broke. Ive been meaning to get high voltage probes but I was getting impatient. :( Rip $25.
>>21844 I've been sticking random components into the breadboard and seeing if something sticks lol.... The oscilloscope didn't break after all... I might do some reading but I could use a little more help here.
>>21848 Good luck finding working solutions Anon.
>>21853 thank you but i think im going to give up the hasel actuator tbh. I think its been three months and my high voltage thing just broke anyways.On to motors...
>>21928 Too bad, but thanks for trying. Can you point out at what it failed at the end? Do you think changing the frequency as you wrote out in >>21718 would've worked?
>>21928 Understood. Well we'll support you in whatever your robowaifu-directed efforts are Anon. Keep moving forward! :^)
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Printing TPU at 100m/s produces abysmals results. 50mm/s is the fastest speed that results in successful prints. Fuzzy skin was used to increases strength and lowers the volume of sounds produced when squeezed and rubbed. Squeezing the hips is generally more enjoyable with the rougher surface providing a subtle tactical feeling.
We don't have a thread about hearing, Voice recognition and related things, and I don't want to make one without access to a PC. Same for the thread about "Chatbots" (conversational AI) which has hit it's bump limit. So I post this here: I asked around on Reddit and HelloPi how to create small voice recognition models: https://www.reddit.com/r/LanguageTechnology/comments/13c4ysl/optimized_voice_recognition_models/ AIML 2.1 implementation: https://www.reddit.com/r/LanguageTechnology/comments/13cqegy/aiml_implementation/ (I might work on this, if I think I can and there's no alternative)
>>22130 Nice. Good to see some progress. My thinking about fuzzy skin was rather about how silicone rubber can only stick physically to anything else than silicone rubber but doesn't bind chemically.
>>22458 Thanks for the heads-up Noidodev. FYI I'm comfortable with you creating any needed new #2, etc., threads as you see fit -- even if you weren't the original OP. You're rather good at it, and it also would help us all out if you did. Cheers.
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BEHOLD! LEVEL 1 HAS BEEN ACHIEVED. (Thanks to sillytavern)
If the waifu is going to be made out of metal inside I think it makes more sense to get a cnc machine personally
>>22755 Can you clarify your point please Anon? >>22760 Definitely a good idea. We even have a thread on that topic here. (>>2991)
>>22761 As mentioned in >>22669 , a Level 1 waifu is an AI chatbot in an inert body. Sillytavern is a web UI interface for AI that already: >stores and organizes character profiles >displays character art front and center in "Waifu mode" >Has a plugin that changes the character art based on the mood inferred from the text >Runs on smartphones b/c it's web based It doesn't have built in speech recognition, but that can be provided by an external voice typing app. So with off-the-shelf technology, we're already technically at level 1. It's just a matter of >create a chatbot and character art that fits the given use case (face for doll body) >create doll body >lightly modify Sillytavern or similar web UI to have full-screen character art. Beyond that, then it's a matter of getting the tablet to work with other electronics for Level 2
>>22781 Ah, got it! Thanks Anon. Good luck on the drive to Level 2.
I tested my arduino and its not working despite getting good readings... I'm uploading the videos to youtube now so I won't lose them this time. https://youtu.be/wsvVdOEaZAw
>>22915 Is your IDE set to ESP8266?
>>22919 Never mind I got it to work wooo! How should I celebrate? https://youtu.be/GoUnKxZcGUc
>>22915 >>22916 >>22920 Good job Anon! Very wise following a tutorial you have good reason to believe works. >How should I celebrate? Since you're interested in Astronomy, I'd say go out to a dark site and ponder the universe for a while. :^)
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>>22922 Anon we need to talk. There's been too much talk about AI and nobody has yet done a decent cad file for the waifu. Where are the priorities here?
>>22934 Haha. Was it something I said? :^) >cad file OK you got me. What's a 'card file' for a (robo)waifu Anon?
>>22939 well you know... 3d files for the waifus various parts...
>>22940 >well you know... 3d files for the waifus various parts... Got it. So, I think we've had several anons here produce 3D files for the board. AFAICT, this is a ginormously-big systems engineering problem, and also-AFAICT no single entity has ever publicly released any full system-wide specs or prints, either. Please correct me if I'm wrong in this Anons. When we here manage it, we're likely to be the first in the world to do so. Regardless, we're pretty much off-topic. Please continue this in the current /meta if you'd care to, Anon. TIA. >=== -minor edit
Edited last time by Chobitsu on 06/04/2023 (Sun) 00:07:00.

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