/robowaifu/ - DIY Robot Wives

Advancing robotics to a point where anime catgrill meidos in tiny miniskirts are a reality.

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Waifu Materials Robowaifu Technician 09/12/2019 (Thu) 03:04:33 No.154
I would define a robowaifu as a doll with robotic features. However there are many different types of dolls (BJD, cloth doll, sex doll, etc). A doll has a skin or surface material, sometimes a filler (cotton), and sometimes internal structure (bones and joints).

Continuing the discussion from (((>>2831 >>2836 todo:relink))) , I want to create a thread to explore the many possible surface materials for a waifu (robo or no). The most important decision is whether to use a hard or soft material.

Hard Materials
>Ceramics
>Wood
>3D Printed Hard Plastic (PLA/ABS)
>Injection Molded Hard Plastic

Soft Materials
>Natural Fabrics (Cotton, Silk, Wool)
>Synthetic Fabrics (Vinyl, Polyester, Nylon)
>Fur/Hair (presumably synthetic, inb4 yiff in hell)
>Silicone or TPE Rubber (TPE is basically a cheaper form of silicone)

I'm strongly biased against the hard materials for comfort reasons. Personally, I have a hard time seeing myself falling in love with something hard, but others on this board talk about using hard materials, so I'm trying to keep an open mind.

My preference is for silicone, but there are four big problems with it. Firstly, it's expensive. Secondly, it impedes modification after the silicone has set. Thirdly, it contributes to the uncanny valley/silicone slut issue. Fourthly, it is heavy, and this weight really constrains the skeleton, posablity, and probably robotics. Because of the weight, silicone dolls have heavy-duty skeletons.

My second choice is therefore fabric, presumably stuffed with cotton. Fabric is super comfy, and has no uncanny valley issue. A non-fuggable fabric doll or robot would have no stigma issue, and could be the start of a productive hobbyist scene with plenty of females. Fabric is extremely lightweight which could be a plus or a minus. By itself, its unsubstantial and not ideal for robotics. A fabric robot is possible, but it requires hard, heavy parts underneath to provide structure and as actuators, which would make it less comfy. The fabric could be a textile (cotton), a synthetic leather (resembles skin, makeup/dress-up potential), or synthetic fur for you furfags out there.

Another possibility is a hard vinyl BJD-like doll with a layer of something comfy on top. Alternately, you all can reject my comfort autism if the benefits of having a hard doll/robot are clear enough. I'd like to hear others make the case for a hard doll/robot, since I don't think I could do the argument justice.

Finally, this is a discussion, not a debate. There are multiple paths we could take, and I'm sure different robowaifuists will try different techniques to see what works and what doesn't. I'm more interested in seeing what options are on the table than shutting down any particular approach.
>>13907 >in snow in mountaintops typical envirotard warmist propaganda its physically impossible to carry solids in evaporated liquids, theres 0 chance snow has any microplastics
>>13908 Not carried in evaporated liquid. Carried on the wind. Air currents. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/science-environment-49343293
>>13907 Not doing something because other things might also cause problems is a flawed argument and approach. I don't know if plant based hair will be relevant and economic. I just wanted that to bring that option to attention, because some of us might care.
>>13912 >Not doing something because other things might also cause problems is a flawed argument and approach. My point was that little things like alternative materials for wigs are like trying to cut salt from your diet to improve your health, while overlooking the fact that you live in Chernobyl. If everything's radioactive, the one or two little changes you make don't matter until you solve the big one. This is just really annoying for me, because I was thinking a lot about how to make a plastic-free alternative for food packaging from food-safe ingredients, and had a plan to do so. The idea is to make something cheaper and lighter than plastic and open-source, to curb plastic use at an industrial scale, not just a few niche applications that relying on hoping some people might adopt. Then I lost my job, so I can't really afford to experiment until I get a new one, because it's a big money-sink. The biggest would be getting a Yeast Estrogen Screening to see if any of the ingredients are estrogenic individually or when combined. It only recently occurred to me that I could post all about it here, but didn't want to make a thread until I actually started testing. (And I need to figure out how to use Open Office spreadsheets to help with the trial-and-error.)
It is possible if the plastics are essentially atomized not literal atoms (because obviously a plastic is composed of chains of atoms, called polymers), but the term "atomized" meaning >convert (a substance) into very fine particles or droplets. "the CO2 depressurized, atomizing the paint into a mist of even-size particles" It is quite possible these are carried everywhere peppering the entire planet. Its not the end of the world, depending on the amount of cumulative consumption necessary to cause significant endocrine disruption. But it's worth noting.
I just found out about a kind of plastic I think I never heard about: Delrin. It seem to be printable but seems to be difficult and not very popular in the low cost printing scene. It can also be machined, though. It seems to be comparable to aluminum, and is used in bushes of linkages of bigger machines. It has a lot of interesting properties: https://youtu.be/vIkIkcqJ-E0 (no sound, which is annoying for a video, but still interesting) Machined bushes for cars: https://youtu.be/CdkVZnmteSE and https://youtu.be/cdb2fU78Bvw Delrin also can be printed, but it seems to be difficult and generally a very bad idea. Machining it, seems to be more common. Here a printable alternative to Delrin, POM, and Acetal: High Temp Nylon (HTN): https://youtu.be/OCLMz05atEA More advanced and often expensive 3D printing materials, which often require special printers: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWL6qzK573EvWBxek8oH1a79pYUXhqbcg
>>14544 Interesting material but I don't see the point of using it, if you have a light mil you'd rather work with a metal like aluminium it copper to get cool metal parts rather than do plastic which is already very easy to print. Overall it just isn't filling a niche that regular old PLA it ASA can't fill.
Has anyone tried platinum cure silicone and baking soda? it might make a soft, porus matrix you could load with a fluid.
>>15212 >Has anyone tried platinum cure silicone and baking soda? That sounds really interesting Anon. I assume the baking soda has some kind of foaming interaction with the silicone rubber?
>>15219 Yes, it is activated at the boiling point of water. Normal solid silicone castings are firm and rubbery, not at all what someone would want in a synth-butt or even synth-skin. Casting it solid isn't even perfect for sex toys that are best made with a firm shell and much softer core. Variable stiffness silicone would be right to make soft parts, and the stiffness can be tuned via adding more or less baking soda, in theory. Anyone can obtain silicone and baking soda.
>>15225 To add to this, silicone cured with a powder has lowered density, has a matte finish, releases easily, and cures significantly faster. It does lose much of its ability to stretch and some durability is lost.https://www.solidsmack.com/fabrication/oogoo-make-your-very-own-diy-sugru-substitute-with-silicone-and-corn-starch/
>>154 I think that the only real way we can build our robowaifus is with a 3d printer so we should look into the best 3d printable materials for the task. PLA seemed like a sure bet due to how easy it is to print and also how cheap the material is.
>>15278 For one offs yes, 3D printing is the only truly viable method. PLA is a great material but suffers from a low glass transition temperature. What this means is that if left out in a hot car or in the sun, parts of her can become soft and deform. Some PLA+ filaments don't suffer from this and PETG is about the same cost though, they are harder to print. PETG is currently my recommended filament if you're willing to take the time to set it up correctly.
>>15225 >>15227 Thanks for the information Anon!
Dragon skin or ecoflex with ecoflex gel 2 is recommended for encapsulated devices requiring a very soft silicone material by the ecoflex tech support. Going to say that ecoflex 00-20 to 00-50 is the best to use as a soft silicone from research, and dragon skin 10 for a much firmer and stronger silicone. Expect the dragon skin and most silicones to whiten a bit from clear when fully cured. Will come back with an answer as to if these are food safe, and I'm guessing yes with the sex toy makers that use these items.
>>15518 Thanks for the recommondations. Any chance you could make a diy onahole tutorial?
>>15523 >Any chance you could make a diy onahole tutorial? Not just onaholes, but 'skin', bewbs, and various other squishy bits for our robowaifus will need to be addressed properly. Once we have a good facility with this area generally as a group, then Silicone Molding & Casting will deserve it's own thread tbh.
>>15523 >>15529 I'm starting by making a 100% sized object for the capsule mold shape and an 80% sized object to cast a thin capsule part inside the mold. The gel will just pour into the capsule, and then can be sealed with more ecoflex on top or silicone epoxy with a cutout. The guy over the phone got a big kick out of me asking him if I could eat off of the cured silicone. I'll use dragon skin for the mold material.
>>15551 The thread title should read >Over 20 pounds of pussy and ass!
>>15558 Heh. Just rember we're not in the sex doll business Anon. We certainly can accommodate Lady-bit kits' created by '3rd-party' manufacturers, but legal restrictions in many jurisdictions would make our robowaifu kits literally illegal if we tried to directly integrate any sexuality into them. If an Anon chooses to upgrade his robowaifu with new outfits, shoes, or other 'accessories' then he's obviously free to do so. Our base robowaifus systems should be bland af in this department. We're protecting Anon's interests in this affair. I'm not trying to defend the legislators obviously, simply reminding everyone what we'd all decided as the best approach a good while ago.
>>15563 I'm a newfag and all I got from the sticky was that roasties are hoesies the whole kit should cost 300-2000 USD. What's this about being illegal to buy if sex is integrated? I'd like to check a thread to get the whole context. I'd like to elaborate that I plan to do big tiddy research to make a guide for a thread here, and I don't have any plans to be a closed source third party. What I like about a custom tiddy pair is that it could be about as big as you want that could fit inside of a mold, far larger than what flesh most men could ever experience in one lifetime. They could be as firm or soft or small as you can make, exactly to your liking.
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>>15647 >I'm a newfag and all I got from the sticky was that roasties are hoesies the whole kit should cost 300-2000 USD. That would be a goal, yes. Don't be surprised if there are a wide range of model prices once the industry is established in the future however. This stuff is exceptionally difficult, and uses lots of costly components. Keeping the cost low is an important goal for /robowaifu/ however, now and in the future. >What's this about being illegal to buy if sex is integrated? I'd like to check a thread to get the whole context. Heh, there's no 'whole context' wrapped up in a tidy little package anywhere here Anon. We're an IB--notorious for conversations wandering practically aimlessly everywhere. But /robowaifu/ scores far above the average at keeping things on-topic and it's a lot of effort :^). We had most of these discussions in-depth maybe 2-3 years ago, and I certainly don't recall off the top of my head just where such info lies scattered about. But here are some ideas of threads that might help be of help to you in your search though: >News (>>404) >Roasties, 1&2 (>>160, >>1061) >Society (>>106) >Wombs (>>157) >Propaganda (>>2705) >Doll (>>101) I'm sure there are others. BTW, we have a software tool called Waifusearch that you can build to help you find specific terms anywhere on the board (>>8678). Finally, as always, the Catalog itself is your friend Anon. This would certainly be a very good topic for our Library Catalogue thread (>>7143), so please post your results in our /meta thread (>>15434) if you actually invest the time & research into the question. Good luck Anon. >I'd like to elaborate that I plan to do big tiddy research to make a guide for a thread here, and I don't have any plans to be a closed source third party. When you have your guide ready, please post it in our Vagoo thread (>>419) as it's probably our single thread most focused on robowaifus + sex, which you appear to focus on. Glad you don't plan for it to be closed-source, that's much appreciated Anon! Please use the MIT license, thanks. >What I like about a custom tiddy pair is that it could be about as big as you want that could fit inside of a mold, far larger than what flesh most men could ever experience in one lifetime. They could be as firm or soft or small as you can make, exactly to your liking. Sounds good, I'm sure many, many Anons would appreciate your efforts in this area Anon! :^) > BTW, yuge mammaries would in fact be very heavy. I can warn you in advance that an inordinate amount of mass is an enemy of the diligent engineer (>>4313). Welcome Anon, thanks for stopping by! >=== -add 'closed-source' comment -minor grammar edit
Edited last time by Chobitsu on 03/18/2022 (Fri) 06:18:24.
>>15648 >BTW, yuge mammaries would in fact be very heavy. I can warn you in advance that an inordinate amount of mass is an enemy of the diligent engineer If they're hard and made out of plastic they can be hollow to save on mass. You can also fit batteries in the robowaifus chest to give her a longer operating time. I don't think we should be that quick to dismiss breasts in order to save weight.
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>>15675 >Hard plastic tiddies filled with battery There's several reasons why you really shouldn't do that. But, you're thinking about solutions which are an important part of problem solving. I prefer pettanko myself but, my idea for oppai would be silicone balloons that would act as a safety cushion for her. This way they can remain light while providing fun bags to play with. What do you think?
>>15648 Thanks, will check out the vagoo thread. >>15676 >airbags in constant deployment Nice idea. I'm not sure how good a hollow breast would feel, but a good answer to saving weight and preserving the sensation while using existing fabrication techniques would be a foamed gel filling. It would act as many small "airbags" and is made with a "blowing agent" like pressurized gas or baking soda (or mixing in bubbles) while it begins to cure. The main downside of foams is reduced strength and stretch length before tearing, which isn't a concern in capsule filling material in my opinion. Next week I may run a test on this with mixed in air bubbles that aren't vacuumed out, going by change in volume for same weight of gel.
>>15675 >I don't think we should be that quick to dismiss breasts in order to save weight. <dismiss such delights Lolwut? :^) No, not at all Anon. I'm simply pointing out that mass is a serious issue which we all here have to contend with. Given Anon's post, my understanding was that the proposition was for a solid-silicone casting of the desired ginormous teats. This would be quite heavy is all. Everybody loves bewbs! > >>15676 >What do you think? Not him, obvs, but I think this may be a prime opportunity for the Mylar 'balloons' for you and SiliconeAnon to work together towards? >>15679 >Thanks, will check out the vagoo thread. Nprb. I really like the idea of the foamed-silicone 'filling' Anon. Perhaps some sort of gradated layering? Firm in the central volume decreasing to very squishy on the outer shell?
So what are /robowaifu/'s thoughts on Nylon 12 CF for structural and mechanical components as opposed to say PLA or ABS? N12CF is stronger, more durable, less heat sensitive, and less hygroscopic than PLA or ABS, but allegedly is more difficult to print than either.. Has anyone had experience working with this filament?
>>15694 I have never been able to get nylon with enhancements to print on anything that wasn't a high end enclosed 3D printer. Nylon also needs to be kept dry, vacuum sealing is highly recommended as it will suck up moisture. This being said, it is one of the toughest and best plastics you can use if you have the proper equipment to print with it. I actually highly recommend it if you can afford it and will be careful. I also recommend using an abrasion resistant nozzle like a ruby because carbon fibers will shred through bronze and many other nozzle materials. Otherwise, PETG is almost as good and can be printed on cheap printers with filament that is less prone to soak up moisture from my experience. Good luck Anon, if you do use CF Nylon, please report your findings and results.
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>>15696 From some of the tests I have been reading Nylon 12 was superior to previous Nylon filaments in regards to lower moisture absorption with Nylon 12 CF improving upon that by being 20% less hygroscopic than standard Nylon 12. My concerns being the introduction of brittleness that could potentially come with N12CF months or years down the road. The medical industry uses a polymide resin derived from castor oil called Rilsan on CF Nylon implants that I might end up testing as a possible solution to this issue. As for the issue of production I was already aware of the mechanical requirements, and was more interested in the temperament of the filament. How it handles, what the idiosyncrasies are, the types of quality issues you run into. Basically the kind of stuff you figure out as you experience a new material. Technically it looks like the ideal solution with the material's weight, hardness, and strength to weight ratios striking a perfect balance for something like a skeletal frame. I guess I will just have to test it out and see what I can do. It may take a while to complete my testing as I am busy upgrading my whole set up at the moment, but I will report back on my findings whenever that may be.
>>15697 I see you want to use CF Nylon 12. I'm running CoPA Nylon for gears with an enclusure, bag + dessicant, nozzle x, and garolite bed. What I've found with this beginner nylon is that Nylon 6's mechanical properties vary with moisture absorbtion quite significantly, and 12 to a much lesser degree. However, I've ran Polymax PC (probably, got it secondhand) for over a year and it always impressed me just how strong, stiff, and resistant to heat it is. It's about the same tensile strength with 1/3 the impact strength, but I've still not been able to break a small cylinder by smashing it with a hammer. The material properties table you listed is likely for an injection molded part, so keep in mind that you may see lower strength along layer lines, especially if the plastic doesn't have high interlayer strength and has carbon fibers in it. The carbon fibers are stiff only in the direction of each layer line with their high tensile or pulling strength. In the industry, companies that 3d print Nylon 12 powder use a wax coating to preserve mechanical properties against moisture absorbtion. Heat degredation starts around 80C, and the nylon will slowly lose stiffness above 70C afaik. I could try Nylon 12 with CF for parts that I'd reinforce along layer lines with nuts and bolts (motor housing), but I'd rather stick with my PC Max. My one weakness with the PC is the giant 1.5% print shrinkage (3x PLA) which greatly throws off dimensions and makes certain prints impossible to work since I can't easily bend or grind it into shape. PC CF would be just perfect, but I don't know which brand I'd go with that isn't low molecular weight garbage that prints at 240C. >>15682 >weight >balloons Could shove some dish sponges or something in the core for that. The texture might get weird if there's a hollow balloon in the middle. Maybe an anon on the doll forums could say what they do for big booba. >gradated layering When you squish something, it gets firmer the more you squish already. My skill is already at it's limit making one shell and a filling, but it's possible to keep using progressively smaller sized mold objects in the same cast for more layers. I'm going to just keep mixing silicone gel (deadened ecoflex 30) with a drill and straw rig until the volume rises by a measured amount in a few cups, and pour it out into a few molds to test firmness of the filling per air percentage. Hopefully I won't keep using expensive name brand shit once I get the process down.
>>15705 >>15705 >dish sponges Good thinking. I always am on the lookout for design and engineering approaches that simply reuse/repurpose/rearchitect already-existing items. Particularly off-the-shelf, easily obtained ones. >weird texture Yep, you understand my point clearly. >an anon on the doll forums We've had at least one here, maybe that Anon is still around? >it gets firmer the more you squish Yes makes sense, thanks for bring that out. It's something easy to overlook for the uninitiate like myself. >gradated layering >My skill is already at it's limit making one shell and a filling Fair enough. I realize this isn't easy and will take us all time to solve everything. You're already far ahead of most of us here! :^) >with a drill and straw rig until the volume rises Interesting. Is this some kind of air-injection system you're describing or what? >Hopefully I won't keep using expensive name brand shit once I get the process down. Especially once we reach the 'garage factory' stage, we'll all be needing/looking for ways to keep costs down. Basic material supplies are an obvious one, as well as the even-more obvious economizing the usage in our designs. Thin films of silicone as 'skin' for example rather than solid casts. I was actually quite surprised to realize just how expensive silicone products are. Somehow I just presumed they would be cheaper in my ignorance. Also, thanks for the files Anon.
>>15705 The image came from some filament company's tests on their own filament. For the life of me I can't remember which company but that was their results. If I find the page again I will link it. I have stuff coming in next week, but I just realized that I might need to upgrade from thermistors to thermocouplers if I plan on working in the 300C range.
>>15708 >straw and drill rig I'm taking a straw with a bendable neck to stick inside of a drill as a mixer. >>15713 Let's keep the 3d printing questions to the 3d printing resources thread: >>94
>>15716 But it wasn't a question. I was responding with a statement regarding the source of the image relevant to the discussion of materials. I then included a statement about a delay which could impact the testing of said materials.
>>15708 >we'll all be needing/looking for ways to keep costs down. Who is "we"?
>>15716 >I'm taking a straw with a bendable neck to stick inside of a drill as a mixer. Ahh, got it! So, I wonder if something like a kitchen blender would work well?
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>>15742 That would work to mix it, but it would splatter liquid silicone everywhere and may cure inside of the machine. Maybe a paint stirrer and drill would be more appropriate. The initial testing of the silicone is done, and here is what I've found: >Dragonskin 20 Stiff and hard silicone, useful for making molds or firm bits. Dry to the touch. >Ecoflex 30 Floppy like a wet noodle. Very elastic, just a bit tacky to the touch with resistance to squish. Good for making capsule outside layers. >1:1:1 Deadened Ecoflex 30 A soft, squishy gel with slow spring-back. Cures to be absolutely nasty shit that you do not want to get on yourself because it will stick to your hands really well. You need to put this inside of a harder silicone to make the part. >Conclusions The Ecoflex and Dragonskin are both incredibly strong, even on the thin layer of what was on the cup when mixed. Everything cures on everything (tested superglue, ASA, paper, wood) no matter what. Just don't wear latex gloves when you handle the silicones. Letting the silicone cure before doing layers is only important to maintain wall thicknesses of each part. The most promising skin/toy/ect. combination so far seems to be: >get on gloves >put on a mask and use ventilation if you are spraying aerosols >coat every part in silicone release (I use universal mold release) spray >wait 5 minutes >spray again >paint/spread on a thin layer of dragonskin 10 NV (or any non-tacky outer layer material) >let it set for 15 minutes >vacuum the bubbles out of each thing you are pouring into the mold before you pour them in >cast in ecoflex 30 or lower into the mold cavity under a spacer that makes room for the gel >wait out pot life time >remove spacer >mix deadened Ecoflex at a 0.5-0.75 deadener:1 Part A:1 Part B ratio to give the gel some squish resistance and spring-action (1:1:1 was too "dead") >pour in ecoflex to the silicone cavity created by the removed spacer >wait out pot life time >pour layer of ecoflex on top of the gel capsule to make a flat base of the part >spread on a thin layer of Dragonskin 10 NV to make it dry (not-tacky) to the touch You could vacuum out the bubbles after you pour into the mold, and that may or may not degrade the mold release layer. The dragonskin outer capsule layer is only needed according to your preference. The dragon skin might slide off if you try to apply it to an uncoated ecoflex part, and vice versa. The end result is you can take a 3d model of your boobie parts, make a mold to cast the part into, and have it come out feeling the desired texture. There's research on human skin having layers of different hardness and thickness depending on where it’s located on the body, so varying the thickness of these three silicones of different hardness can produce exactly what you imagine the feeling to be. The attached file contains a diagram of the skin layers
>>15774 Excellent research Anon. Thanks for the procedural breakdown as well, very helpful. Cheers.
>>15774 >Correction Do not use DragonSkin 10 NV for multi-material parts, it lists on the website that it is incompatable (cure inhibiting) with other silicones. I've only done testing with the silicones listed in the post above, and wanted to try the NV version.
Glad to have found this board. Currently thinking about 3d printing an inner body with joints and then put a 1-2cm thin/thick silicone/TPE skin around it, cast with 3d printed molds. This should provide for lightweight constuction and good feel. Sorry if this has been mentioned before, I'm a lazy fuck who can't be bothered to read the ful thread.
>>15809 Hello Anon, welcome! Glad you found us. Your design goal is definitely amenable to our general approaches here. I'm sure as you spend time here on the board, you'll discover the costs & benefits of such an approach discussed. I'd suggest you use the catalog view to look around for topics you're interested in and go from there. Cheers! :^)
>>15809 Engineering tip: When working with a silicone skin, it's best to include holes in the inner body to provide the silicone with surface area to properly mate to the part.
>>15774 Update: >Success with smooth-on shit You can add some slacker (deadener) or silicone oil to make the silicone less springy or more soft, respecively. Don't go too crazy with additions or it won't fully cure. You can add cosmetic grade mica powder to the silicone to make neat color effects, just make sure there are no powder lumps. Some thi-vex is useful for painting a shell onto a mold, which you can then fill up with more silicone for boobie effects. If you use platinum cure silicones, then you may be able to mix in ignite colorants and have it thicken a bit for the same effect. Whenever you mix anything in, mix it in very well to part B first, use new forks every new thing you start mixing, and always pour a mixture into a new container. I use a fork and disposable cups. With these guidelines, it is possible to make butts, boobs, faces, and girly parts and horse cocks, you know, the futa kind. Need to try the material on a volunteer to test chemical safety.
>>16857 Thanks, good to know. Do you use a vacuum pot to get the air bubbles out?
>>16859 Yes, and upon further investigation I will not use deadener for anything on the outside because it's always slightly tacky to the touch.
>>16916 One thing to add to this: casting the deadened internal silicone first and the outside skin around it within an external mold with no silicone deadener should leave the surface not tacky while the inside is flesh-like. The way I'd do this is by sucking up the material from the bottom with a tube in the top and bottom of the mold, with the bottom containing silicone in a syringe and the top connected to a vacuum. It would need a buffer chamber for bubbles to expand.
>https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jmrt.2020.11.021 Going to try this recipe for silicone sensors. If it works, then making a sensitive silicone part is as simple as mixing in some graphite and carbon powder to the same silicone used everywhere else, but attaching electrodes to the end of the shape. The possibilities are endless.
>>17202 I linked this in two other threads about skin and general engineering, since it's more about sensors than the materials. I'm sure such powders are available on AliExpress and other places. I want to mention the materials here, if someone wants to keep an eye out for them: >oft and stretchable conductive polymer composites (CPC) ... >Diverse fillers have been employed to accomplish CPC such as carbon nanotubes [7,8], graphene [9,10], graphite (GRP) [11,12], carbon black (CB) [13,14], silver [15,16] and gold [17,18]. Among the various fillers, GRP has shown to be a promising candidate over other fillers due to its good electrical conductivity [19], good thermal conductivity [20], biocompatibility [21,22], low percolation threshold owing their high aspect ratio [23], high compressive strength [24], along with their natural abundance [25,26] and low price [27].
>>17205 Thanks, bro.
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>>17205 I got mine from Amazon for their (sometimes as advertised) fast shipping. If time was not of the essence I'd get it through ebay or aliexpress. The EF20 will not be used (per paper EF30), but I included it in the picture. I'd also like to mention that you may need EF silicone thinner to have everything mix into part A and have all the powder break up nicely. This cost about 150$.

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