>>8850 Good luck Anon.

Here's some diagram about different nozzles for printers. Nothing special, but maybe interesting. I'm using brass so far, but also have steel nozzles in case I might need them. Only recently watched a video where carbon fiber nylon filament actually got some recommendation, the claim was that this combination would print really good on normal printers. Of course, that still needs a harder nozzle than the brass ones, which are good as standard nozzles. Just wanted to mention, that it is a good idea to make sure, if you disassemble your printer, to check that the screwheads of your screws a still fine. I wrecked one of my screws in the printhead and now need to drill into the screw and use a lefthand drill to remove it (Not asking for common ideas, already looked into my options).

>>9145 Thanks Anon! Just in time too, my printer nozzle jammed and I can't print ATM. Maybe this will help me and others here out. Cheers.

Here some infos on how to print gears the best way: https://youtu.be/JMgXu1rFDJ0 - using PC if possible, putting metal bolts into small gears, print the parts separated in the right orientation for maximum durability, using dual-helical (heringbone) gears instead spur or helical gears. Heringbone in Fusion 360: https://youtu.be/MtK6yK0NRM0

>>9798 Nice info, thanks Anon.

>>9145 That seems off about ruby nozzles. Yes the thermal conductivity isn't very good but there's only a tiny piece of ruby at the end of the nozzle where it matters, the filament gets melted in the metal part before reaching it so the real thermal conductivity of the nozzle depends on what metal it's made out of. Also saw this recently which seems like a fantastic idea for decreasing print time and wasted filament. Plus parts that would be too wasteful to print due to large supports that would use up more filament than the part itself are now feasible which will lead to new designs. https://www.3dnatives.com/en/moving-platform-3d-printer-070420214/

>>9814 You might be right, didn't even recognize that. Also, I don't know. But your argument makes sense. In regard to your link, thanks, but I'm not to enthusiastic about it. It might get patented, it's probably a complex mechanism, it might only be useful in certain cases, and support material mostly isn't that expensive. The site itself on the other hand is interesting, I should read more news like that.

>>9846 Huh. That's interesting. I wonder how you integrate inside the software to properly work with the standoffs like that and adjust the length of the supports? I mean, is there a 'use standoffs' checkbox or how does that work exactly?

>>9846 One of the biggest issues for repeatability with FDM is the consistency in diameter of the filament with tighter tolerances being more expensive due to higher quality control. This investment in a printer would make buying higher quality filament more economical in the long run. And the most notable thing in that image isn't the filament that wasn't wasted but the time not spent moving the print head around to create an unnecessary part. There's also parts like this that would be difficult or impossible to print without such a platform. >>9847 They're probably using custom gcode for research now.

>>9848 >They're probably using custom gcode for research now. I see. Thanks for the information Anon. I was entirely unaware of any such 'dynamic print bed' type printers. I wonder if they could be usable by hobby-tier robowaifuists someday?

>>9849 The "hobby-tier" printers are rather ones which aren't industrial or something, but also still for professionals which are using them for prototyping. (I don't like the distinction in pro and hobby). I guess something like that is surely possible, if it has enough benefits. But not for the cheapest models. Looks to me like it requires a core XY system, so the bed doesn't move. Which already makes sense for very small and fast, or the bigger ones. Not so much for the cheap 20+X cm.

Maker's Muse on 3D printing myths: https://youtu.be/oX4up29xUuw[Embed] - It's a new technology (it's 40yrs old) - ABS ist stronger and better than PLA (if it is, then it's a amalgam, a mix) - Bed leveling isn't leveling at all (there's also tramming) - Paper is good enough to level bed (feeler gauge is better)

New printing material: PVB Needs to be kept cooler than 60C, might be interesting for shells bc can be smoothed and there might be cooling underneath such shell. Can be nearly transparent. >PVB is still a great material for 3D printing and offers a few mechanical advantages over other filaments. According to Prusa Research’s material comparison sheet, PVB has a higher (better) tensile strength than ABS and PETG, meaning it can take more physical stress before snapping. PVB also has greater impact resistance than PLA and ABS and is even slightly flexible, although nowhere near as flexible as truly flexible materials like TPU or TPE. >Although PVB’s low melting temperature makes it a more easily printable material, it also contributes to worse mechanical properties. The low melting temperature results in PVB having poor layer-to-layer adhesion, which might mean prints are more brittle and more easily snapped. https://all3dp.com/2/pvb-filament-simply-explained/ Material comparison: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials

Makers Muse with some great ideas again: https://youtu.be/pMA7aWCoWJ4 - Folding mechanisms in plastics - Printing on textiles - Plastic hinges for light mechanisms - Cutting with laser cuter, then print on it Of course, these hinges might not last that long, but for cheaper robowaifus, where parts can be replaced, it might make sense.

>>12022 Thanks Anon, much appreciated!

https://hackaday.com/2021/08/03/strangest-upside-down-3d-printer-fits-in-a-filament-box/ https://youtu.be/ZAPaOevoeX0 A new interesting FDM printer just announced called the Positron. Had something similar in the back of my mind with the delta Simpson printer printing upside down with a movable Z axis to make up for its poor height print limitation. Using an X&Y gantry is a much better idea unless you need 6 degrees of freedom on the print head. Printing upside down with filament is nothing new and doesn't totally solve the bridging issue. But with the new 90 degree print head pushing filament upwards there may be a solution on the way. It's also a game changer in allowing for much heavier print heads instead of trying to make them as light as possible. His was made for a small desktop footprint and to be folded for portability, using a large marble slab or several thick slabs of very flat glass with air bearings instead of linear rails you could probably get much faster speeds with a larger print volume without spending a lot on long linear rails. Plus having a super accurate and powerful stand alone Z axis means this can easily be converted to an MSLA printer.

>>12151 Wow, this looks really interesting Anon. Sounds like it could be a game-changer in many ways if it takes off with lots of competing manufacturers offering this kind of design. >MSLA printer I didn't realize they were called that, thanks.

>>12152 The thing with MSLA printers is over 60% of the cost is in the Z axis as it has to be powerful and accurate to lift a large bed out of a vat of thick liquid that has a suction force working against it. The special high resolution monochrome screens and UV light matrix are cheap compared to that. I can see a drop in add on for the Positron that makes it double as a MSLA printer, especially with the removable print bed. It's not possible with other types of FDM style printers.

What would be a good Tubing Brand to buy replacement tubing? I had heard of some brands but wanted a second opinion before I attempt to re assemble my extruder.

I wanted to buy glue for my prints, today. Only realized in the shop that I forgot everything about fusing prints together and didn't know which one to buy. Remembered vaguely that maybe ABS can be fused together with acetone, but not PLA. So I bought just some fast curing glue, which is based on cyanoacrylate. At home, when I wanted to put it down at a suitable place I found the one I already had, lol. Here some article on how to glue PLA prints: https://3dinsider.com/how-to-glue-pla >Cyanoacrylate glue Works, needs rough surface, burns into it, suboptimal shear strength. >Urethane glue Similarly strong to cyanoacrylate, but more flexible bonds. Can withstand most indoor and outdoor conditions. More suitable for heavy-duty applications, but should have a week to fully cure. Not useful for thin and small sections because of temperature while curing. >Epoxy resin Might create heat, but depends on the product, same for the toxic fumes. Little bit more complex to apply, might take 72h to cure. "Bonds created by epoxy resin are extremely tough. When applied to PLA, the PLA parts are more likely to break apart before the epoxy resin bond will break." >Acrylic glue Needs highly controlled conditions. Actually dissolves the PLA material. Dangerous for small and thin parts but extremely strong bond. Ventilation (or outdoor), eye protection and breathing protection are necessary. >PLA 3D pen Like a soldering iron. Very useful for filling in gaps between separate parts, but applying only a very thin layer is almost impossible. Needs skill. >actual soldering iron Might also work, but the molten plastic can be very hard to control. Needs even more skill and experience.

>>12156 Sorry than no one answered this. I have no experience in buying such tube, and I'm sure opinions differ on that. Btw, the 3d printing thread on 4chan/diy is really quite helpful with such questions.

>>14052 Cyanoacrylate has never bonded PLA prints for me. Hot glue has worked the best for me. Acrylic would be good for smaller parts.

>>14059 >Cyanoacrylate has never bonded PLA prints for me That's odd. I used it on small parts, worked even to fast to correct some little error.

>>14063 Huh, I used PLA+ with dollar store cyanoacrylate glue. Did you use normal PLA or different cyan glue?

>>14064 Normal, very cheap PLA from Anet, glue from China shop (our version of dollar store here).

>>14358 ^ Mechanical properties of 3D printing materials for robots. How to chose and use them.

Texturing 3D prints for strength: https://youtu.be/3-ygdNQThAs

Using resin to smooth 3D prints https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OziH3Y2ySNo

>>14385 Yes, good topic and good video. Though, airbrushing it is new to me, or I forgot about it. The 3D Printing General also did a video on air brushing, but not with resin (and without security advice): https://youtu.be/1QwfwL3L4c0 I'm about to pull the trigger on some dual component resin for glas fibers, which can be used for smoothing. It doesn't need UV light. Just want to look around first in case they have it locally. Smoothing >>5137 Reinforcement with fiber and resin >>5227 I'm looking forward to some more ideas and progress there. TPU smoothing with some flexible resin would be nice. Also some coloring per layer, and then translucent but not shiny layer on top of it (for the parts which should look a bit more like skin). Same Youtuber is getting into regular painting of skin tones here: https://youtu.be/x8sdC7gc4Iw Personally I would like to mold silicone rubber skin, so I'll need the smooting for the molds. The other way would be, printing a mold, use clay to make a negative, work on it and make it smooth, then make a resin mold with the smoothed clay

>>14385 Are there any resources here on translucent filaments? Have not seen much of them in my travels and in some of these videos the engineers use them to have an easier time troubleshooting parts.

>>14385 >Using resin to smooth 3D prints I'd recommend using something like ASA filament instead. You can use acetone vapors to smooth it like ABS but it's as easy to print as PLA. Here's a before and after picture, as you can see a lot of detail is kept after the smoothing.

>>14900 Wow! Those results look amazing Anon, thanks for pointing this out. Know of any further, related resources on this technique?

>>14938 Problem with vapor smoothing is the loss of detail which will effect things like the threading you see on that pic. The process is incredibly simple as it just involves suspending the ASA/ABS print inside of a chamber filled with acetone. https://all3dp.com/2/abs-smoothing-a-beginners-guide-to-abs-vapor-smoothing/ >>14900 PLA smoothing can be achieved by simply sanding the print with fine and then applying resin for a decent project. For the threading you would use a hobby knife to elide rough layers. You do not under any circumstances want to use a sanding chamber. Sandblasting will destroy your print extremely quickly. https://www.makerbot.com/professional/post-processing/sanding/ There are other chemicals you can use to vapor smoothing PLA and even PC, but I wouldn't fuck around with shit like DCM unless you have a clean, well ventilated lab with the proper tools and PPE. You don't want to die giving your waifu shiny, smooth, hard booba.

>>15701 Thanks very much for the tips Anon.

High speed PLA profile for Ender 3 using Cura. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_9ADBZVCoA&t=355shttps://thangs.com/designer/CHEP/3d-model/Filament%2520Friday%2520Extra%2520Fast%2520Cura%2520Profile-56518

leaving this here Injection molding meets 3D printing in this 300 piece 3D printed injection molding machine https: //www.3ders.org/articles/20160331-injection-molding-meets-3d-printing-in-this-300-piece-3d-printed-injection-molding-machine.html

Many print quality issues and long term maintenance requirements explained in one video: https://youtu.be/-cm1vIER_bk

This is about putting hardware into paused prints and printing it into the parts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rk6MkW1eRiY

>>17074 Make sure your captive part is nice and degreased so the next layer can stick to it, one idea I haven't tried is using a gluestick on the top surface of the part. It also helps for the part to be as flat as possible.

Filament colors matter for strength and other traits, but it's complicated: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMSp1WDqtpI tl;dw: If some filament doesn't work well enough try another color, even if everything is the same. Also stay away from specialty colors variants like mat or shiny.

>>19643 Thanks for the advice Anon.

FYI, this patent expired a few months ago. This would allow us to do really elaborate multi-material printing of any arbitrary thermoset resin. Basically it would let us print robowaifus like they do in westworld. https://www.fabbaloo.com/2020/03/the-challenge-and-opportunity-of-3d-printing-patent-684116b2

>>20917 Wow, this article is either written very badly or I have brain damage. He could just get to the point. What will be available and how is it better? The poster here could also put it into the comment, but okay. I don't want to try parsing legalese to get the first part. After looking at it again, I understand now it's about printing layers with photoresin. I still don't know why this would be a big deal. We'll see.

>>20927 No it's not for UV resin. The patent covers a cooled extruder/resin jet in a heated build chamber so that you can use any regular thermoset resin, e.g. silicone, polyurethane, epoxy, polyimide, etc, etc. This lets you do high resolution multi-material 3d printing, which would theoretically let you print-in-place soft robot muscles in a photorealistic humanoid robot.

>>20935 > silicone, polyurethane, epoxy, polyimide, etc, etc. This lets you do high resolution multi-material 3d printing, which would theoretically let you print-in-place soft robot muscles in a photorealistic humanoid robot. Oh, okay, this is great. Thanks.

I had the idea of getting a second printer for quite a while. Something very cheap and more likely with a fast Bowden style extruder. My current favorites are: - Anycubic Kobra: Very fast but seems to have some issues - Biqu B1: Slower, bit cheaper, more mature, very positive reviews even when it came out Kobra review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFH0lFZHeAs Biqu B1 reviews: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3BQoxymN-E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW4DaWCd0Xs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bga6__AGYiI

>>21423 Thanks Anon!