Thanks for the nice contribs, NoidoDev. Cheers. :^)

via >>30501 >This article demonstrates a two-step method to 3D print double network hydrogels at room temperature with a low-cost ($300) 3D printer. A first network precursor solution was made 3D printable via extrusion from a nozzle by adding a layered silicate to make it shear-thinning. After printing and UV-curing, objects were soaked in a second network precursor solution and UV-cured again to create interpenetrating networks of poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate) and polyacrylamide. By varying the ratio of polyacrylamide to cross-linker, the trade-off between stiffness and maximum elongation of the gel can be tuned to yield a compression strength and elastic modulus of 61.9 and 0.44 MPa, respectively, values that are greater than those reported for bovine cartilage. The maximum compressive (93.5 MPa) and tensile (1.4 MPa) strengths of the gel are twice that of previous 3D printed gels, and the gel does not deform after it is soaked in water. By 3D printing a synthetic meniscus from an X-ray computed tomography image of an anatomical model, we demonstrate the potential to customize hydrogel implants based on 3D images of a patient’s anatomy. https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acsbiomaterials.7b00094 >=== -patch crosslink

I found what might be an excellent low cost resource. Used or refurbished 3D printers on ebay. I found by accident looking for 3D stuff on ebay. Creality has their own ebay store where they sell refurbished printers. The bad part, Creality's quality control sucks, bad. These are printers someone has already returned and while they say they refurbish them, some appear for the bad reviews to be thrown in the same box and shipped out again. So why bother? The VERY important point is because they are refurbished ebay, allstate insurance has a two year warranty on these things. They also tend to be slightly over or around half the cost. Still you might say that's a bad deal but if look at the reviews on Amazon the negatives tend to be Exactly the same percentage as they are on the returned, refurbished printers. So you're really not taking much if any more risk and you're getting a much better warranty. Another way to think of it that for any part that may be bad you could upgrade to a far better one, make sure everything works and still be out less money than the one bought new from Amazon, while taking no more numerical risk of getting a bad one. Now it would be nice to have the funds to buy a perfect printer but to get a really good one you're talking $500 or higher. Base model ender 3's you can get for around $100 used. I like the ender 3 V3 SE. I like the dual screws on the "Y" and "Z" axis. This gives you a great platform for stability and the direct drive extruder is far better as opposed to boden cables. Boden cables are likely to be a problem if you speed it up to go faster. The cable friction causes problems though at low speeds it's perfectly fine. SE, not the fastest, but I think you could add parts over time and make it better and better. Creality is not the best but they have so many sold there's a pile of hardware and software add-ons. So over time you could make it what you wanted while cheaply getting into it.

>>30917 Interesting idea. Thanks, Grommet! Cheers. :^)

TinyMaker : moe resin printing for every Anon! :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vfQrYthlw0

>>31481 That's very cool. I see resin printers as the sort of final step in making molds for parts. Rough it out with filament printers then when you're satisfied use the better resolution of the resin printers to make master molds. I'm not sure but this might have better resolution, even as limited as it is, than a typical low cost filament printer. You could always print a bunch of small parts and glue or connect them together to make whatever size you need. Slow but, cost, cost, cost is always a problem. The bigger $500 resin printers are nice but if you can't afford one they are of no use.

BTW I see the board is back to the old style, for me anyways. It's so much better.

>>31498 >fine-resolution/mold-making Yes, I agree. For many one-offs, I almost think vacuum conforming plastic sheets may be the best approach -- especially for shell parts. But for the intricacies required for good joint components, sensor actuators, various fastener scenarios, etc., then resin printing can be just the thing (KEEP YOUR RESIN PRINTING AREA WELL-VENTILATED, ANONS!111ONE!!). Once we go beyond boutique-scale garage shops, then mass injection-molding contracts may be the best route. But till then, I suspect that filament-based printing will still rule as king for most of us Anons. --- BTW Grommet, your great inputs across the board here over past month or so have been much-appreciated. Danke, Anon! :^) >=== -minor edit

3D Printing Smart Clothes With a New Liquid Metal-Alginate Ink https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyEGK8NmCiI I've been binge watching 3D metal printers. The numbers are exploding with all sorts of methods being used. The laser powder types are being eclipsed by faster, cheap solutions. Some are electromagnetic metal droplet pumps, tiny droplet piston pumps, high velocity particle jets etc. There're blowing up and the cost is plummeting. Now the new ones are not as good as the standard laser metal particle but faster. I can see these others getting better and better. And a lot of them use standard aluminium or other metal wire. No special powders. If you look at the tech the cost has a long way to fall before you run into rock bottom material cost constraints. Eventually you could easily get 3D metal for the cost of high end plastic filament printers cost now.

I've been every so often looking at 3D plastic filament printers. I've thought of all sorts of schemes to get something low cost but the horrible quality control has always held me off. Like I need more things to work on. I'm covered up already. I don't want to spend hours tinkering with these and until now quality cost a good deal of money. BUT...Bambu Lab A1 Mini is now on sale for $200. I've never heard anyone, no one, say anything much bad about Bambu printers but they were always very pricey. With this I think they will either kill the competition or the competition will have to up their game substantially. In almost every case, well every case I've seen, people say you plug this thing in, it runs calibration that covers deck height, motor vibration. printing head vibration, belt tension, and it does all this automatically. And another thing it has is some sort of exact plastic flow sensor that tells the machine exactly how much plastic is flowing so you get a good even flow by using this feedback mechanism. It also has wifi so you can run it from your personal computer or even your phone. It has a camera so you can remotely monitor printing with even a time lapse function that records your print. WHAT THE HELL CAN THIS THING NOT DO. Can it make bread, cook a stew... Well it doesn't print large sizes. It is limited to a 7" x 7" x 7' area. I have a very strong suspicion that they are using these as loss leader market tools. The bigger ones jump up in price fast but once people get some thing that prints accurately, doesn't constantly break, is as fast. or faster, than most all other high speed printers and cost less, with, mostly flawless printer...consistently, then people will be spoiled. And if they need bigger prints will swallow hard and pony up the bucks to by their more pricey models. I've seen tons of people who say they have years of experience of working with the other brands and they got really good at tuning them but when they got a bambu it was a revelation, as there's not much more to using them than turning them on and getting good prints. Not that they can't mess up but all these feedback loops they have makes for a much higher print completion and quality. For us 7" size is fine. I envision joining parts like Japanese or early European wood joinery. The joints, if done correctly, are extremely close to the strength of a solid piece of wood. Same would apply to plastic. A few examples, https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ef/59/9f/ef599fffcfcc0400c2fbf6f5ed99a5b6.jpg https://avbarn.museum.state.il.us/sites/default/files/images/Collins_Ric_IMG_35.jpg and one I particularly like the scissors joint https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse2.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.iUE1sdMrS_bIC0VWC4z8oQHaEK%26pid%3DApi&f=1&ipt=3c6ebc52e622b48d00bb04f2a77c6dc2c58011bb1b566667d1c354ceae06f317&ipo=images With software making these joints it would be a breeze compared to whittling them from wood. I suspect once you had a system to do so, splitting these into smaller parts that join solidly would be fast and easy.

>>31664 Sold, Grommet. I'll be getting one before long and we'll give 'er a spin. I'll let the board know. BBTW, you should be in sales, Anon. Cheers. :^)

>>31664 >BUT...Bambu Lab A1 Mini is now on sale for $200 Unfortunately, the cheapest I'm seeing rn is US$349. , Grommet. Can you bookmark your pricing link and share it here please? I imagine that's still a good deal, but still $150... Thanks, Anon. Cheers. :^)

>>31683 You have to scroll down and around. What they are doing is the page you land on for the A1-mini has the package deal of the A1-mini + a four color printing optional accessory. They have a retarded number of scripts on the page and you have to scroll around to find the $200 A1-mini alone. Maybe this link will work, https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/a1-mini?variant=41513493627016 The extra colors are not a bad deal at all. In fact a huge bargain. I could see having an additional color being an asset. Especially if you use one color for base and then a water soluble filament to make voids. One use for the multi-color is to to print spots with the .2 mm nozzle. So you print a translucent white but below. or next to, print various shades of red or pink. Like magazine printing from a distance you have a mixing of the colors to make shades. So with a white, black or brown, red or pink, maybe a yellow for Asians you could have realistic skin tones. If you can at all afford it I would recommend the multi-color kit, even if you see no use for it immediately. I read they were difficult to acquire if you don't get them together. But you can get around with just one color. My sweet spot for buying these is $200, maybe $250. Look at this video from a long time 3D printer user on the Bambu A1-mini who has used all sorts of printers. It's good and look at the comments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBQ-QfcY3Qs I've been also looking at resin printers. I don't know how good these are. Brief reviews seem to be ok. The specs though are extraordinary. Here's a list I made. Egloo Saturn 2-4K Saturn 2 $263.00 USD $209.99 USD sale price 10-Inch 8K Mono LCD pixel size 28.5um (.0285mM) (0.001122047 in.) Slicer Software CHITUBOX Technology Layer Thickness 0.01-0.2mm Printing Speed 30-70mm/h Z Axis Accuracy 0.00125mm XY Resolution (7680*4320) 0.0285mm Build Volume 218.88mm (L)*123.12mm (W)*250mm (H); 8.62in(L)*4.85in(W)*9.84in(H) (8.617323 in. x 4.847244 in x 9.84252 in ^3) Egloo Mars 4-9K $250.00 USD $199.99 USD sale price 7-inch 9K mono LCD, 8520x4320 resolution XY precision 18um (.018mm) (0.0007086614 in.) Build volume of 153.36x77.76x175 mm^3 (6.037795 in. x 3.061417 in x 6.889764 in ^3) pixel size 18um (0.0007086614 in.) PRINTING SPEED 30-70 mm/h LAYER THICKNESS 0.01-0.2 mm 0.0003937008-0.0007874016 in. XY RESOLUTION 18 µm (8520x4320) Z-AXIS ACCURACY 0.02 mm (.0007874016 in.) Saturn 4-12K 10-Inch 12K Mono LCD $399.00 USD $299.00 USD sale price 10-inch 12K Mono LCD Print Size 218.88x122.88x220 mm^3 (8.617323 in. x 4.837795 in x 8.661417 in ^3 resolution of 11520x5120 XY resolution 19x24µm (0.0007480315 in. x 0.0009448819 in.) Slicer Software Voxeldance Tango & ChituBox Technology Layer Thickness 0.01-0.2mm (0.0003937008-0.0007874016 in.) Printing Speed MAX 70mm/h Z Axis Accuracy 0.02mm (0.0007874016) XY Resolution (11520*5120) 19*24um (0.0007480315 in. * 0.0009448819 in.) Build Volume 218.88mm(L)*122.88mm(W)*220mm(H) (8.617323 in. x 4.837795 in x 8.661417 in ^3) Layer Thickness 0.01-0.2mm (0.0003937008-0.0007874016 in.) Let's start with the Egloo Saturn 2-4K. The resolution is 28.5um (.0285mM) (0.001122047 in.) This is very close to ten thousandths of an inch which is considered good accuracy for machine work. Even if the resolution is actually twice that due to manufacturer inflation, it's still good enough for us, at $200. The Egloo Mars 4-9K $250.00 USD $199.99 USD sale price 7-inch 9K mono LCD, 8520x4320 resolution XY precision 18um (.018mm) (0.0007086614 in.) is so close to ten thousands of an inch. If it's even close to specs then it's production level. The more pricey ones may be accurate to ten thousands of an inch even if they are lying a little about the resolution, and only $100USD more. So we're talking about production level models. In my mind you use these for molds, or make molds from them. So you rough out designs in the Bamboo and when you have what you want, resin print it for mold production. Linking these together means any size you want can be done with extra time as the deficit. If fact for most needs the Bambu with a .2mm nozzle, and good deal of time, would be good enough. I expect that you could easily get .6 mm resolution with a .2 mm nozzle even with glitches. Maybe better. The new printers are really getting exciting. Cost and capability wise. The possibilities are endless. BTW do you know if we will "ever" be able to upload pictures and files directly here??? And what would it take t do so?

I can't help but wonder if you couldn't make a .1 mm or .05 mm nozzle, maybe even smaller, and slowly, ever so slowly print with the Bambu to get super accurate prints? I see no "physical" reason this could not be done. I don;t know what the ultimate stepper resolution is. I suspect it's high at low speeds as the stepper uses difference wave forms to create partial steps, I think. I know this can be done. Bambu, according to users, appears to be responsive to customer request and supposedly has so far been constantly updating their older printers software. I think it could be a great selling point to have this super resolution mode as an option. Maybe charge more for nozzles.

Cross link from the CNC thread: >>31756

It seems someone is working on a consumer grade SLS printer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQ6DYJtn7Bw It seems interesting, but at it's current backer price of ~$3700 USD I don't know if it's exactly worth it. The machinability of printed parts is what catches my eye the most.

>>31805 >consumer grade SLS printer. That would be wonderful. Thanks for the update, Anon! Cheers.

Well this sucks. I have been scrimping to buy a top-end Bambu Labs printer for detailed robowaifu parts work. Now I find out they are forcing the printers to be on the cloud before printing. Any solutions to this issue (that aren't just 'lol so what?' :D, Anons? Their advanced features are why I've been waiting until I can get one. Any other competitors that won't try to strongarm this type of GH-style sh*te on their users?

>>35880 Or buy a Creality. Works moderately well for me

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CERTIFICATE-----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\nAQ==\n-----END CERTIFICATE-----\n\n-----BEGIN CERTIFICATE-----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\n/wIBATAOBgNVHQ8BAf8EBAMCAb4wHQYDVR0OBBYEFMLJ0S0u6 (1 of 3)

>>35889 ZLamScDGaM6LNMc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\n-----END CERTIFICATE-----\n-----BEGIN CERTIFICATE-----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\nHwWFH7i/Q45bIcfftUW4IuF6aGQ7g0/ti8XEvXjXJhPzew==\n-----END CERTIFICATE-----', crl: ['-----BEGIN X509 CRL-----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\naRANWl5wMJ5nUd5UFCk=\n-----END X509 CRL-----\n'] }; class dre { constructor() { Ee(this, "store"); Ee(this, "randomKey"); Ee(this, "mainBridge"); Ee(this, "crypto"); Ee(this, "deviceCerts", new Map()); this.crypto = process.report.sec.crypto; this.randomKey = this.crypto.randomBytes(32); this.mainBridge = process.report.sec.mainBridge; const e = process.report.sec.Store; this.store = new e({ name: "store", defaults: { serverCertificate: fre, embedAppCert: j_, appCert: j_ }, encryptionKey: 'DvyI8DTMqidJ+rH6w+wYg8LzD747kdW+bj8O8wDOczNMgHK93yOJqepuH3197qLS' }); this.mainBridge.handle('isAppCertInstalled', r => ({ installed: r.certIds.includes(this.getCertId()) })); } addDeviceCert(e, r) { this.deviceCerts.set(e, r); } signMessage(e, r) { if (!this.deviceCerts.get(e)) { return r; } const i = JSON.stringify(r); const s = this.crypto.sign('RSA-SHA256', Buffer.from(i), this.store.get('appCert').privateKey).toString('base64'); return { ...r, header: { sign_ver: "v1.0", sign_alg: 'RSA_SHA256', sign_string: s, cert_id: this.getCertId(), payload_len: new TextEncoder().encode(i).length } }; } devicePublicEncrypt(e, r) { const n = this.deviceCerts.get(e); if (!n) { return r; } console.log({ deviceCert: n }); const i = new this.crypto.X509Certificate(n); return this.crypto.publicEncrypt({ key: i.publicKey, padding: this.crypto.constants.RSA_PKCS1_PADDING }, r).toString("base64"); } updateAppCert(e) { const r = e.key; const n = Buffer.from(r, "base64"); const i = n.subarray(0, 12); const s = n.subarray(-16); const o = n.subarray(12, -16); const l = this.crypto.createDecipheriv('aes-256-gcm', this.randomKey, i); l.setAuthTag(s); const a = Buffer.concat([l.update(o), l.final()]); this.store.set("appCert", { privateKey: a.toString("utf-8"), cert: e.cert, crl: e.crl }); } privateEncrypt(e) { return this.crypto.privateEncrypt({ key: this.store.get("appCert").privateKey }, e).toString("base64"); } getCert() { return this.store.get("appCert").cert; } getCertId() { const e = new this.crypto.X509Certificate(this.store.get("appCert").cert); return `${e.serialNumber.toLowerCase()}${e.issuer}`; } getSignCertId() { const e = new this.crypto.X509Certificate(this.store.get("appCert").cert); return `${e.issuer}:${e.serialNumber.toLowerCase()}`; } getFirstCrl() { return this.store.get("appCert").crl[0]; } encryptAppKey() { const e = this.crypto.randomBytes(12); const r = this.crypto.createCipheriv('aes-256-gcm', this.randomKey, e); const n = Buffer.concat([e, r.update(Are), r.final(), r.getAuthTag()]); const i = Y_(n); const s = new this.crypto.X509Certificate(this.store.get('serverCertificate')); const o = this.crypto.publicEncrypt({ key: s.publicKey, padding: this.crypto.constants.RSA_PKCS1_PADDING }, this.randomKey); const l = Y_(o); return { encAppKey: i, aes256: l }; } } function Y_(t) { return (Buffer.isBuffer(t) ? t : Buffer.from(t)).toString("base64").replace(/\+/g, "-").replace(/\//g, "_"); } function hre() { process.report.certManager = new dre(); } function pre() { process (2 of 3)

>>35890 .report.sec = { crypto: JN, mainBridge: vt, Store: UV }; hre(); Oe.protocol.handle("https", ore); const t = new HW(); t.connect(); const e = new JO(); e.start(); ZW(); vt.handle("openFileDialog", async () => { const { canceled: r, filePaths: n } = await Oe.dialog.showOpenDialog({}); return { path: r ? undefined : n[0] }; }); vt.handle("readFile", async r => ({ file: await WN.readFile(r.path) })); return () => { e.destroy(); t.destroy(); }; } function gre(t) { Oe.Menu.setApplicationMenu(null); if (ML) { Oe.app.quit(); } if (process.defaultApp) { if (process.argv.length >= 2) { Oe.app.setAsDefaultProtocolClient("bambu-connect", process.execPath, [fn.resolve(process.argv[1])]); } } else { Oe.app.setAsDefaultProtocolClient("bambu-connect"); } if (Oe.app.requestSingleInstanceLock()) { Oe.app.on("second-instance", (i, s, o) => { if (r) { if (r.isMinimized()) { r.restore(); } r.focus(); const l = [...s].pop(); if (l) { r.webContents.send(Uu, l); } } }); Oe.app.on(Ny, (i, s) => { const o = s; if (r) { r.show(); r.focus(); r.webContents.send(Uu, o); } else { n(o); } }); } else { Oe.app.quit(); } let r = null; const n = async i => { console.log("create window"); r = new Oe.BrowserWindow({ width: 1000, height: 800, minWidth: 1000, minHeight: 800, webPreferences: { sandbox: false, webSecurity: false, preload: fn.join(__dirname, "preload.js"), devTools: !GL } }); vt.connect(Oe.ipcMain, r); const s = pre(); r.loadFile(fn.join(__dirname, "../renderer/main_window/index.html")); r.webContents.openDevTools(); LL(r); r.on("closed", () => { r = null; vt.removeAllHandlers(); vt.disconnect(); UL(); Oe.protocol.unhandle("https"); s(); }); r.webContents.once("did-finish-load", () => { setTimeout(() => { if (i) { if (r != null) { r.webContents.send(Uu, i); } } }, 1000); }); r.webContents.setWindowOpenHandler(o => { if (r != null) { r.loadURL(o.url); } return { action: "deny" }; }); }; Oe.app.on("ready", () => { n(); const i = process.argv.find(s => s.startsWith("bambu-connect://")); if (i) { if (r != null) { r.webContents.once("did-finish-load", () => { setTimeout(() => { if (r != null) { r.webContents.send(Uu, i); } }, 1000); }); } } }); Oe.app.on("window-all-closed", () => { if (process.platform !== "darwin") { Oe.app.quit(); } }); Oe.app.on("activate", () => { if (Oe.BrowserWindow.getAllWindows().length === 0) { n(); } }); } module.exports = gre; (3 of 3)

>>35889 >>35890 >>35891 > sauce: https://hastebin.skyra.pw/raw/pufugimoye

>>35889 >top-end Bambu Labs printer for detailed robowaifu parts work. Now I find out they are forcing the printers to be on the cloud before printing. I'm not so sure this is true. "...What is LAN Mode? LAN Mode is a feature that allows Bambu Lab printers to work in a local area network, and communicate with the slicer for sending files and monitoring without requiring internet access..." https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/enable-lan-mode https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/152xlpe/bambu_lab_life_without_internetcloud/ I don't have one yet but my opinion is to buy the mini. Any larger parts can be cut in smaller sections, joining brackets added, print and then the pieces glued together. My reasoning for this is I do not expect to have any parts I make be made of filament. All of them will be made in 3D printed molds used to make composite parts of other materials. Most filaments engineering wise cost too much per pound and are not all that good. I think you can use epoxy, polyester and other resins combined with other fibers and make something far cheaper, better, stronger. There's also the benefit that printing mold shells is super fast. So you can rough in what you want. Then use cheap prototype metals/plastics to fill the molds to see if it functions correctly. There's metals and plastics that melt in boiling water. One plastic is, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone Also called, ShapeLock InstaMorp Moldable Plastic Thermoplastic Beads Polyshape Polymorph Hand moldable Plastic This plastic is supposed to roughly the strength of nylon, which is good for prototype testing, but melts at 60 °C (140 °F) (not the final part because it melts but good for testing) One low temperature melting metal is, cerrosafe. There are many others at many price and melting points. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerrosafe To make fairly strong parts at a low cost you can use Fumed silica mixed with polyester resin for a smooth surface coating then cram in fiberglass cloth or glass fibers soaked in polyester, epoxy or other resins. Any number of natural fibers will also work. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fumed_silica Polyester dries quick and is super strong. They have many over fifty year old boats made of this sort of stuff that are just fine. And even stronger is the same with epoxy but it takes longer to cure. and might I ask, what is all this and what does it do??? >>35889 >>35890 >>35891

After I wrote the above I thought, is fiberglass stronger than human bones so I asked and the AI "DuckAssist" said. DuckAssist BETA "Fiberglass can be very strong, with some types reaching tensile strengths of up to 2,358 MPa, which can be comparable to or even exceed the strength of human bones. However, the specific strength can vary depending on the type of fiberglass and its construction."

>>35889 and I forgot to ask how do you add this code or deal with it?

>>31805 >SLS printer Thanks, very interesting. More options and progress is always better. >>35880 Imagine if you already had it, and now they would do that, and there was no way to work around. You might have dodged a bullet.

Elegoo has a new x-y printer. Supposedly x-y more stable the Centauri. Is this a a bambu killer??? Babbu labs has been making the best printers because they monitor exactly the flow from the nozzle and have precise inertia calibration. They calibrate the print heads motion so they can print faster by knowing exactly where the head is. The new printer is $200 (preorder) AND it has the space of larger printers than Bambu's smaller printer. Print Right Out of the Box Full-Auto Calibration, No Manual Adjustment CoreXY with 500 mm/s Velocity 20,000 mm/s² Acceleration Build Volume 256 × 256 × 256 mm This is the same specs as Bambu. Time will tell but this appears to be a good move. They "say" is has the same calibrated motion control. Now the $200 is for the cheapest. It has a die cast frame which good but no glass covers for the cheap one. The expensive one is $300. Are they both the same except for glass. Don't know. I suspect I could find some glass for less than $100. Bambu has lately been trying to tie thier printer to Chinese servers one way or another. If Elegoo is able to make something that works as well it kill their plans. People will abandon them. I obviously don't know if this works as well but you can clearly see they are following Bambu and attempting to take their business by copying their tech that makes Bambu so good. Even if they are not quite as good I could see software alone upgraded could make the printer better even if it has a few false starts.

Forgot https://us.elegoo.com/products/centauri

Elegoo Centauri Max. Nozzle Temperature 320 °C The specs on this thing is really impressive. Higher temperature nozzle means ABS, maybe nylon printed. specs Filament Type PLA/PETG/TPU/ABS/ASA That's 99% of what you would need to print with, for me, it would all I needed.

>>37065 >>37066 >>37067 Thanks for the information, Grommet. I'm currently thinking about printers in the mid-term. I'm extremely disappointed to have to have eliminated the top of the line Bambu Labs printer from my short list. They're dead to me now tbh. Any information from Elegoo about following a similar control approach for stable printing that Bambu uses? Any other printer companies doing something like that? I'm probably looking to get a printer in about 6 months or so. Cheers.

Elegoo Centauri has good printing reviews from people who have used it. They compare it to the $1,000 Bambu X1, favorably. And if that's not enough. Someone has a metal wire laser printer. Prints 3D with wire. WOW! Starting price at $600 USD. Double wow! Of course that's the low end. I have no idea what you get for that but if it just prints metal that would be good. It can be set up with,maybe comes with, machine tooling to finish it. Meltio’s M450 https://www.3dnatives.com/3D-compare/en/3d-printers/m450/# Apparently the US Navy has one on a ship to make ship parts. This opens up real possibilities. If you don;t have the machine tool part with it, you could make! Maybe need a drill press as a temp lathe and a few cutters and vise and you could make most anything.

I read that Elegoo is using a tuned version of Klipper. Klipper takes momentum and the mass of the print head into account to predict movement. The reviews on it say they were getting fast consistent prints. I expect that it's likely not Bambu but...it's not $1,000 either. You could probably slow it down slightly and do just as well. The reviewers said they were getting bambu quality. Of course will Elegoo fuck up the quality? I can't answer that. I think for $200 it's well worth the risk. I see a package deal including two rolls of PLA, a spare hot end extruder (you can get it in 2mm) and three build plates for $245. That's a sweet deal. Another major company Creality, I have never ever heard anything but poor control over their quality. It's random. Some people get stuff that works and some have nothing but trouble. This is one of the reasons I like Bambu, everyone spoke highly of them. Next to no bad machines. Plug it in and go. BUT this is such an advance at that cost, I think it's worth a gamble. It's prepay now and won't ship for a few months so I don't know if this price will stay the same. I don't know about all the others. If you want a sure thing, or most likely a sure thing, get the much smaller bambu mini. It's $300 and from everything I read works well right out of the box. But it has lower temp and much lower features. Tough call. My view before I saw this was bambu mini for $200. Volume is not everything. You can print in pieces and glue or clip together. You can 3D print the connectors in the parts. I expect that the printer is just to make molds or should be. It would take forever to make all your actual parts and be very costly. But shell molds, super fast and put whatever you want in them.

One other thing the reviewer said Elegoo used Klipper on other printers and did not seem to have it all together but this printer they said they had it working correctly. Of course they could be lying.

One last thing, no cloud. All local.

>>37074 >If you want a sure thing, or most likely a sure thing, get the much smaller bambu mini. It's $300 and from everything I read works well right out of the box. Thanks for the advice, Anon. But as I said before, they are dead to me. I value my privacy much, much more-highly than I do slick & quality printing. I think I'll try the Elegoo you mentioned. Thanks Grommet! Cheers.

>>37077 I made a mistake. Bambu mini $200. I also do not think Bambu "makes" you use the cloud. I may be wrong but there's a setting to change it to local. I've seen the setting in their manual but I'm not sure if this has changed. I suspect that Bambu if they force the cloud will lose a very substantial amount of their business.

>>37082 >I suspect that Bambu if they force the cloud will lose a very substantial amount of their business. Well, they certainly lost mine. I'd been saving up slowly to be able to acquire the X1-Carbon + the AMS & 4-spool multi-print combo system. Now that money will be going to some other printer manufacturer. Try to strongarm me with kikesh*te-style globohomo privacy-invasion tactics, will you!? >:( <---> Anyway, thanks for your latest research ITT, Grommet. Cheers. :^) >=== -fmt, minor edit

>>37075 >Elegoo used Klipper I may be wrong about this. Some said it did some say not. Sigh. I expect it uses it or some derivative of it but I'm not sure. I think this is a wait and see. They will be sent to users in a couple months and we'll have a better view. Though most reviews I've seen are good. Especially for the price. Bambu has been getting really bad press for them making it "if" you use the wi-fi it goes through their server. Big stink BUT, you can use a SD card and not use their servers.

>>37190 That's all fine, Grommet. I'll make an attempt at doing some research into these topics myself before I plan to make a purchase in several months. If so, I'll certainly post what I learn ITT. Cheers, Anon.

A interesting idea from that master of all ideas Robert Murray-Smith. He has a video where he talks about the strength of 3D printed parts and PLA. He talks about the influence of grain direction and an idea I had never heard of. If you coat the finished part in superglue it soaks into the layers making a composite. He then sprays it with an activator to harden and it makes it super strong. What a brilliant idea. I wondered what the activator was and in the comments someone said, "..."Activator", i let you know, is just isopropyl alcohol (propanol)..." Others mentioned filling spaces in your print with baking soda and then filling that with super glue to make strong parts. A tip I heard elsewhere was that the powder used in the super glue trick works better if you have an alkaline material as that makes the glue set stronger. 1857 How To Make Super Strong 3D Printed Parts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AExrJ_Y4t64 I've been going back and saving his videos. Sometimes his videos disappear. Some are moved to his private channel some, don't know. I used to have a ton of his videos saved and...hard drive crash. Normally I make copies of everything and I did save a bunch of them but had maybe a 6 month period where I didn't save everything. I had started to when I had one crash. Sigh. Usually I get close to filling one and I by another, copy everything over and then use the filled one as a back up but, procrastination...I lost a lot of files on robowaifu stuff, papers on materials, solders, wire specs, electronics, motors, all sorts of stuff and a lot of videos. I've been looking at hard drive repair videos and maybe, if it's just a fuse or diode that burnt I can steal one from another drive and get this stuff back which would otherwise take forever to find, if, I even could. I do have another drive that;s just like it and if get desperate I can move the board over but you have to swap the ROM chip used to calibrate the drive and that's a little tricky so I want to avoid that.

>>37418 Neat. Thanks for the tips, Anon. I hope we can ultimately devise simple, formulaic recipes for Anons of all stripes to follow in building their own light+strong+cheap robowaifu frames/shells/electronics/actuators systems in their own bedroom. ONWARD! <---> >"Halp! I lost all my files in le heckin' hard drive crash!111" Hard drives are cheap, Grommet. Also: two words, bro: >cp OK, so maybe that's one word, but w/e. You get the point. [1][2] While you're at it, here's another two words: >cron Simple as. [3][4][5] OTOH, I suppose 'I'm one to talk', having failed to back up a couple month's of /robowaifu/ (just prior to the payment snafu recently). Cheers. :^) --- 1. https://www.man7.org/linux/man-pages/man1/cp.1.html 2. https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/cp-command-linux-examples/ 3. https://www.man7.org/linux/man-pages/man8/cron.8.html 4. https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/cron-command-in-linux-with-examples/ 5. https://linuxhandbook.com/crontab/

Well I'm fortunate I saw the tariffs coming in the US and bought my resin 3D printer early. I would have bought a filament printer but...I really do not have to have it. All my printing is really only going to be used to make molds for composites. Composites of polyester resin, epoxy and cellulose, fiberglass, etc. are waaaayyy stronger than most any filament you can get and far, far cheaper. That said if I would have been able to get the elegoo centauri or elegoo centauri carbon like, right now, then I would have bought one. Great for various odds and ends stuff. I'm hearing really good reviews and the price is cheap. Same for the Bambu mini, but the elegoo is back ordered and the bambu mini has shot up in price to where it's not something I need, at that price. But I bet if I bought one to be delivered then it would get stuck in customs with a huge tariff sum due, and that would negate the price advantage. Even though it will hurt me, really bad, as most of the stuff I want is from China. I agree that the US can not continue to have everyone on the planet charge us all sorts of tariffs and administrative rules to keep out our manufacturing. The wealthy US globalhomo wants to turn the whole of the US into hewers of wood, cardboard and scrap metal collectors. You can't keep up like this. There's no real profit in being "just" a commodity producer. We should have done it 20, 30 years ago. Now, it will be VERY painful. VERY. It may well be we will never keep up. I'm NOT one of those that believe that the Chinese can never do anything on their own. And I have said that way back when everyone was discounting them. One of the BIG keys is they own their own central banks and are not ripped off like the US and Europe by you know who. The Chinese will be the great power to come. What they will do with it...we will see. I expect they can't do any worse than what the US, taken over by globalhomo and ruined, will do. And just so you don't get the wrong idea I am not a Trump worshiper. I like a WHOLE lot of what he is doing but I don't trust him and it may well be that in catering to the mega wealthy he will not be able to get a handle on the globalhomo which he has to realize is a huge problem and the reason for US decline...other than the normal decline of great powers that always happens, but it didn't have to be this drastic. If I were in Europe or most anywhere, if you want 3D printers from China now would be a good time to get them. Europe has been screwed the same as the US on Chinese and other country tariffs. They will have to raise theirs.

>>37620 >and bought my resin 3D printer early. Naicu! I forgot which one you purchased, Anon. >If I were in Europe or most anywhere, if you want 3D printers from China now would be a good time to get them. Yes, I think you make some sense with that argument, Grommet. Cheers. :^)

>>37628 I got the Elegoo Mars Mars 4 Ultra $189.99 (what I paid) $209.99 right now resolution USD 18um (.018mm)(0.0007086614 in.) It has the best resolution of the low cost resin printers. They have a newer model with close to the same but a larger print size. My interest was solely on resolution. You can always piece together parts. Not perfect but...low cost and if you are just printing molds instead of solid parts the time is super fast. Things to get with it are the film that covers the tank where the resin sits. There's two types , I think, may be more now, FEP and ACF. I'm not sure which is best but I bought. ELEGOO 3PCS ACF Release Liner Film for Mars 4 Ultra LCD 3D Printer with Less Release Tension, Support 3X Faster Printing, 225 * 160mm, 0.3mm Thickness Sold by: ELEGOO Official US $20.59 Another very good tip it how to extend the resin tank cover films life and, from what I read, make sure prints are better and don't stick. Quick explanation so you will understand the reasoning. The build plate base is pushed down into the resin tank. The space between the build plate and the film at the bottom of the tank depending on the layer height you pick. Let's call it 1mm. So there's a 1mm space between the build plate that holds your parts and the film in the resin tank. The base plate is "in" the resin. UV light hardens the resin. This resin sticks to the build plate. The the build plate goes up and the next layer is UV hardened. You can see the problem. If the film at the bottom of the tank sticks to the hardened resin it tears it off the build plate. Big mess. Now I read ways to stop this. Primarily to put a lubricant on the plate. The good ones are expensive and use PTFE (teflon). The good news is apparently you only have to use a smidgen and not every print. Rub it in gently like car wax. I got a sealant with high marks that is used for swimming pool gaskets. Called "magic Lube 630". It's $9 USD for one frigging ounce but, you will only need to make a smeared lite coating on the film "before" you add resin. This way when the build plate lifts it will not stick to it. Now I have not used this yet. I got this from reading a ton of forum post and people have used all sorts of lubricants and coatings. I also bought water washable resin. I've seen reports that this has little smell and can be used indoors. Normal resin can NOT be. It stinks to high heaven and is toxic. I hope it turns out to be true that it can be used indoors AND has the high resolution of the more toxic stuff. Cost is reasonable. Resin is expensive if you are making actual parts but resin is super weak and shouldn't be used for parts. It should used to make molds to make parts. That way you get speed, resin printers are fast, super resolution, far, far, far , better than filament printers. Materials to make parts are not high for smaller stuff. Some plans I have are epoxy and cellulose insulation used for blow in attics. $21 for 25 lbs. A Bargain. Mix with Titebond III glue or epoxy or polyester resin. According to AI's epoxy and cellulose fiber is stronger than wood and wood is really, really strong per weight. Other stuff that you might think high cost is not if the parts are small. You can get "sale" off cuts of carbon fiber cheap. Like $20 for a 1 meter square sheet or less. You can make a lot of stuff with that, especially if you mix it with fiberglass or cellulose. The key is to use the carbon on the "face" of part. The highest stress area and use cellulose or glass fiber for all the interior.That way you are maximizing cost/stress/utility. For surfaces that rub together like gears or bearings my plan is to use carbon fiber and mix resin with 20,000 grit Aluminium oxide from rock polishing kits. This will be impregnated into the face of the part. So you mix a small amount of this to make a paste, cover the mold face then impress the carbon fiber into it, add more resin. Cheap, as you are only using a sprinkle. The idea is the super, super hard ALO2 fits in the spaces and coats the carbon fiber while the carbon fiber has the strength. Backing for the carbon fiber could be even cheaper fiberglass or cellulose fiber. I would say if you have limited funds and want the best bang for the buck for prototyping robowaifus the resin printing, make molds is the best way to go. 3D printing all the parts with expensive fairly weak liquid resin or mostly weak filament is a huge waste of money and time. It's expensive and slow.

Forgot Elegoo Mars Mars 4 Ultra Build volume of 153.36x77.76x165 mm^3 (6.037795 in. x 3.061417 in x 6.496063 in ^3)

>>37631 POTD Nice information, Grommet! >molds IIRC we had a thread on this general topic back in the day. Maybe you can revive that one, and give us some greater detail about your mold plans? (Sorry, you and I can't post pics again here yet. Hopefully that will return for /robowaifu/ soon! :D Good posting with you again Grommet. Cheers, Anon. :^)

>>37633 Molds topic??? I have this thread bookmarked to find topics, not that I'm any good at sticking to them, but sometimes I try. The Library of /robowaifu/ Card Catalogue Robowaifu Technician 11/26/2020 (Thu) 07:11:30 No.7143 >>7143 I don't see molds. "If" there is an actual thread for molds it would be nice to see it under materials...maybe? Maybe we need one. If you are going to any sort of manufacturing at any sort of reasonable price point you will almost have to have molds and cast all this stuff. Although people will squeal talking about materials will need to be talked about in the same mold thread and molds in the materials thread or the whole idea ill be disjointed. Part of my problem, if it is a problem and it's warranted to criticize it, is I like to talk in complete ideas. Sometimes these may seem far off, but they're not. And sometimes little additions that seem off topic are in fact important parts of the ideas. In consequence I can get a bit wordy but my attitude to that is don't read it and bits cost...next to nothing. It's very difficult to get across technical things with text and leads to lots of words. I posted a comment about zeronet. Chobitsu you should take a look at this. A distributed forum where everyone stores little pieces of the totality of a forum. So as long as one person has it everyone can update. They have it for Tor but "I think" you have to have JavaScript on. Not good. They say they are working on an I2P version and that would be spectacular. The whole thing works on BitTorrent.