>>26208 Perfect prints that come off perfectly with a PEI plate on the bed.

>>26208 >TPU That looks really good. Might I bother you and ask if you know what shore the TPU is? It's the firmness of the plastic or squish per pound force, sorta. And how flexible did it come out? I wish someone sold a shore set on a key ring. Like different shores imprinted with what is what on a key ring. Thye have cheap shore meters, basically a point with a spring on it and a gauge. I may have to get one and go around poking on all the squeezable plastic I can find.

>>26210 Mind sharing which PEI plate you chose? BTW congrats on your new printer, Anon. Cheers. >=== -sp edit

>>26246 Almost all TPU filament has a shore hardness of 95A. I believe you mean to imply the use of a durometer. My print is very flexible, that can be adjusted by varying thickness and density. My sparse infill and 2mm thickness leads to a print which effortlessly can be rolled into a ball in my fist. Right now, the major hurdle is connecting the meshes to her forming rings. They stretch around screws when handled roughly. Staples get wrecked and stabbed me when it put a design through a cuddle test. >>26251 I use a fugacity PEI plate. Only because it was cheap, it has a crazy strong grip on prints thanks to its deep texture. Which is great, so long as you design around it. You need a deep chamfer or fillet to help pry prints off.

>>26253 >Right now, the major hurdle is connecting the meshes to her forming rings. Kind of what I'm thinking is a two-ring, inner/outer set that snap together and clasp down tightly all the intersecting edges of the mesh flats? >Staples get wrecked and stabbed me when it put a design through a cuddle test. Ouch! :D >I use a fugacity PEI plate. Thanks! Cheers. :^)

>>26253 >Almost all TPU filament has a shore hardness of 95A I had no idea. Learn something new every day. >durometer Yeah that's it.

TPU is the most based filament. Perfect for waifu. https://youtu.be/iWI1CFKiE3M?si=GPPUOmf9uGEhWe8w

>>26283 Excellent information Anon, very useful for beginners to flexible prints. Thanks! :^)

Pinned together prints offer an interesting road to explore. On another note, large flat PETG prints can effectively be accelerated by setting first layer speeds way up. 50mm/s works great. This square 16cm by 16cm by .8mm and printed in 25 minutes. It may be possible to print a whole waifu in one day with panels.

>>26532 Neat! Any chance you could give us another closeup shot of the pinned area for better clarity please?

Excellent resource for 3D printing without a slicer http://fullcontrolgcode.com/ https://youtu.be/Sp2qHM-0Boc?si=QG5mvE66I7E2DGFe

>>26532 >It may be possible to print a whole waifu in one day with panels. That is really excellent. I never thought about that. An idea. I was looking at carbon fiber videos and they were making hollow tubes for air inlets for cars, I think. They would make a split mold, cover the mold on both sides with release plastic. I bet the plastic was just the same stuff in grocery store bags. polyethylene I think. So they have the mold sides covered. They place carbon fiber over it inside the mold tube with slightly longer carbon to overlap. Put the mold together. Through the inside more plastic release making a hollow tube. They tape the ends of the plastic together to seal. One side has a tube to draw epoxy and the other side (top to bottom) a vacuum. They then draw up epoxy with a vacuum.The air pressure automatically presses the inner tube to the sides. When dry they have a strong tube. I don't know if it's strong enough, maybe so, but there are people who are making tiny travel trailers with foam insulation covered with canvas drop cloths that are impregnated with titebond II or III glue. This stuff is really strong. They're called "foamies trailer" or "camper". Search for this and you get all kinds of hits. They have forums where people try all sorts of stuff. Now the point to all this babbling is you make a framework like shown in the comment I linked to and that is your mold. Do the plastic insert with canvas, maybe with a few strips of carbon fiber then suck the titebond II up to impregnate the cloth and/or fiberglass,whatever. Epoxy is expensive and I don't think it's much stronger than titebond II which only cost about $30 USD compared to $100 for good epoxy. Another really super strong glue is "powdered urea formaldehyde plastic resin glue" you can get a gallon for $30 or so. Mix with water so it makes a lot. It's somewhat waterproof but not standing continuous water soak proof. It's generally used for woodworking so I expect it would be great for canvas.

>>26588 Very nice info Anon. I may try looking into this tool over Christmas season. >>26589 Very cool Grommet, thanks for the information. Any chance you could provide the board with some links to the things you mentioned? Cheers Anons. :^)

>>26589 links Teardrops n Tiny Travel https://www.tnttt.com/index.php The main index has lots of stuff on paint, covering etc this is the foamies specific link https://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=55&sid=22d13a3dc48202dd7c433d346c8a8709 Good search term for canvas with titebond glue and other plastic matrixes. "Poor-Man's Fiberglass" Back in the day they would use canvas covering wood for ships impregnated with paint. It's my understanding that done tight this last for decades without the wood rotting. Example, "...The original painted canvas has been on my boat for 55 years. It's kept on the water all year long in a covered slip. I re-coat the paint every 6-8 years..." https://forum.woodenboat.com/forum/building-repair/99214-paint-on-canvas?p=2741933#post2741933 This guy has a ton of composite manufacturing videos. Easy composites. He's using a bunch of professional materials but you could use less costly stuff. The ideas are the same though. Here's just one of his tube videos that I mentioned. "...Making Complex Carbon Fibre Tubes Using a Split-Mould..." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBbOUDDJv4Q Another good one is "Make Forged Carbon Fibre Parts Using Compression Moulding" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25PmqM24HEk I believe you could use the same techniques with vacuum impregnation. Cutting cost. Vacuum Infusion Process - Benefits, Dry Spots, Pinholes and More https://german-advanced-composites.com/vacuum-infusion-process-explained Resin Infusion - Stuart Boatworks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwKhnUCWQtQ In-Depth Guide to Resin Infusion (3m Kevlar Moulding) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMPSIKfkdtQ Glues, titebond II and III fairly waterproof. There's an old school type glue that is super, major strong. They made boats and the WWII Mosquito aircraft was glued together with this type glue. Urea Formaldehyde glue. People are using epoxy now because it's fairly easy to use but it's in no way as good as this stuff. The basic stuff is usually called Cascamite but it goes by a ton of trade names, Semforite, Cascamite, Aerolite. Links for water mix based glue (these guys say waterproof). It's true many people have made boats glued only with this stuff that last. But total waterproof is...hard to judge. It appears that some manufacturers have figured a way to make the water based glues waterproof but some are only partially waterproof. No standing water. Both named Cascamite. I can not judge is the newer water mix glues are really waterproof? Old boat builders say that the old Cascamite WAS waterproof. Is the newer???? http://www.semfor.co.uk/extramite.html Others they call water resistant. Means no continuous water standing. https://www.thenamethatsticks.com/products/cascamite-powdered-resin-one-shot-wood-glue/?page=1&rt=/products/&b=18 generic cascamite https://www.thenamethatsticks.com/products/woodstikk-one-shot-powder-urea-resin-cascamite-extramite-aerolite/ These guys say waterproof but it's still water mix based. Polyvine CAS15KG Cascamite Powdered Resin Wood Glue 1.5kg,White https://www.amazon.com/Cascamite-Powdered-Resin-Wood-1-5kg/dp/B0001OZI8Y?th=1 Now the Resorcinol Urea Formaldehyde glues are 100% waterproof and last forever but more expensive and two part with resin and activator but one of the best glues ever. You have to hunt for this stuff. It's used by the millions of tons on waterproof plywood and they use it to bond the fibers and rubber in tires together. Tough stuff. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resorcinol_glue Aerodux Resorcinol Resin https://www.amazon.com/Aerodux-Resorcinol-Resin-Kit-Quart/dp/B00DP5VQD2 A bit on glues and their properties https://www.classicboat.co.uk/practical-advice/adhesives-for-wooden-boats-structural-glues/ https://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Glue.html

>>26603 Excellent resources, Grommet! Thanks very kindly. Cheers. :^)

How to add a built in electroplating mechanism to a 3D printer. https://youtu.be/W1d36wbx_yg?si=u3gaIjPvEe1JanMU

>>26606 Just wanted to post the same thing. Thanks. This is very big, for example since it will make it harder to prevent people from getting motors for building robowaifus in some future dystopian society or current authoritarian countries.

>>26606 For future reference: This also includes how to 3D print a peristaltic pump which might last longer than regular ones.

>>26606 >>26607 >>26608 Neat! Thanks Anons. :^)

Creality Ender 3 V3 SE: https://youtu.be/EL8ehEYPTCk (~$200) Anicubic Cobra 2: https://youtu.be/jxBL-WM0m-0 (~$210) Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro: https://youtu.be/_86rsbi4lEI (~$210-$220) Artillery Sidewinder X3 Pro: Not many tests in English (~$220) Sovol SV07: https://youtu.be/gH5RQiuaKlw (~$260) BIQU Hurakan: https://youtu.be/GRiMDI2DSf4 ($320) Bambu Lab A1: https://youtu.be/F8sdrPgH9Fk (~$460) Others from BIQU might also be interesting, but reviews are old: https://youtu.be/Hz2GGUbufG8 (€364) The B1 costs only 155€ ($170) which is likely to be better than cheap Ender 3 models. I think it might be interesting as secondary printer. Some people build very small Core-XY printers themselves. This might not be for beginners, but on the other hand it might be more affordable for poor people. Well, if they know somebody with a printer: https://youtu.be/9IVwhJpB8qE https://youtu.be/JbOr9a6ECg8 Again, these might also be interesting as secondary printer or a printfarm.

Overview of Rolohaun Design DIY 3D Printers: https://youtu.be/RG2nWzs_bqE

>>26659 >>26687 Excellent listing Anon, thank you.

Looking at 3D printing stuff and I find a category that I never heard of. Maybe not new to some but it surprised me. 3D printing pens. Wow! These can be PLA or they have some that print ABS. I read the ABS ones can print PETG which I think would be better than ABS but not sure. With one of these pens you could cheaply print these net frameworks like shown here >>26532 These are really cheap to super expensive like most things. Generally it looks like medium quality with enough options to get by for $40 USD or so. Here's one, not pushing this one, just showing one of many for reference. https://www.amazon.com/MYNT3D-Super-3D-Pen-Compatible/dp/B081C946ZJ/ Search term "3D printing pen ABS" It would take a long time to print a framework with one of these but it cost about 6 times less and might be good to screw around with ideas. I'm also looking at Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer, 250mm/s $200-$220 USD and Creality Official Ender 3 V3 KE 500mm/s $284-$300 USD The second doesn't cost much more and prints twice as fast and has wi-fi control which is a really good add on. I like it better. Creality seemed to be falling behind. I thing these new ones are a shot at jumping back up in the cost, performance curve to take away from the newcomers. One advantage of Creality is there's so many of them there's more help and parts available for modding, tuning and repair. Of course the reviews on this are not so good. Like most Chinese 3D printers. It seems you get a good one or...lots of trouble. The ones that are good seem to be really good good and the bad, really bad. 10% seem to be bad. I think if you get a bad one return immediately. It seems they want you to troubleshoot it for them but you pay for a good one not use your time for their quality control. There's also people who say they delay until return period is over then ignore you.

>>27783 Thanks for the info Grommet. I'm going to try a new low-end Ender 3-B (220x220x250), and see if that works for many of our needs here. It's well under US$200. Keeping everything (incl. manufacturing) inexpensive for robowaifus for everyman is an important goal for us here certainly a big one for me personally. Cheers, Anon. :^)

>>27783 >3D pens Nostalgic, started out by tracing anime girls. Looks like those posts didn't carry over for this thread. I also posted about using those for welding prints together. 1. Firmly connect parts with clips, glue, pins, etc... 2. Extrude slow and steady at slightly higher heat. 3. Make little swirls, ensure you have good pressure to push molten plastic into the seem. >Drawing meshes Potentially a decent idea. I wouldn't do it as it would take forever. I recommend the Gender 3 V3 SE. I have one and it works a treat. You do need to ensure it is on a stable perch. I put mine on a chair with a loose leg and when printing at 100mm+ walls shows clear ringing and distortion. On a solid base, it can go fast with good quality. SPEED DEPENDS ON FILAMENT, NOT THE PRINTER PETG maxes out at 100mm if designed for it. (No bridging, minimal hopping) 50mm is safe. PLA varies wildly, most can do 150mm. TPU varies from 15mm to 100mm depending on shore hardness and print design. Other filaments generally don't matter. Just bought high speed PLA+ from Creality. Will update on practical speeds for the Gender 3 V3 SE. Any recommendations for test prints?

>>27796 >Nostalgic, started out by tracing anime girls. Looks like those posts didn't carry over for this thread. I was literally copy-pasting posts (+ their images) from the emergency big filedump of the old board's threads that I had saved out to disk one-by-one (during that final, tense, 2 or 3 hours of 8ch's existence on that fateful day [remember, I hadn't yet written BUMP then, and I yet had no idea how to use cURL/wget properly either lol]); over to here one-by-one, by hand, to get this board kick-started again (back on Julay.world it was, actually), after the GH glowniggers (+ their affiliated good-shabbos golems like Cuckflare) killed 8ch. As you might imagine, it was a very tedious operation and at the time there wasn't even any realistic way I could make an appeal here to the old hands to help out (I was the only RW 'survivor' here at first, I think. cf >>14500) On-and-off I spent 2 or 3 weeks at the effort, as I recall things. IIRC, I finally gave out after about 1'200 posts of this sort (and the 'new' board was finally gaining some traction on it's own by then as well). So, there's still around 5'000 posts that I haven't/never finshed posting by hand here from the original board. This is one of the important reasons I pleaded with anons several times to help me figure out how to deal with captchas here; from within my own custom software ( >the tl;dr : b/c I wanted to finally finish restoring the OG /robowaifu/ in a semi-automated fashion, rather than my original 'Ugg the Caveman' way, which would take me literally months to finish :^). The other main reason is to assist us with moving individual posts around today, sorted into their proper threads (similar to >merge, but for specific posts rather than entire threads). This is a high-priority need for both NoidoDev and myself, who both really care about our board being a good & organized robowaifu research tool. Ironically, one anon finally did help us (in the previous /meta I think), but the whole post didn't go through and he never did (re)post the 2nd (missing) half as requested, AFAICT. And you can't use just half of a piece of code. An alternative code post would have required me to learn a whole new language (Perl) just to understand it, and I simply didn't have the internal reserves to do so. Therefore, those 5'000 missing OG posts may never make it over ATP... and I'm far too entangled in other life rn to even properly consider the effort at all (though I could probably push the filedump somewhere for others to do so). BTW, this 3D Printing thread was likely one of the larger OG threads, and so it never got fully-reinstated here (apart from it's OP; I worked from smol to large to get the most 'thread traction' the quickest within the catalog during that initial effort -- posting all the OPs first, then going back and 'filling them in', smol to large). >tl;dr My apologies to you and to all the other anons whose many OG posts are still missing here today. An_effort_was_made.jpg :P >humorous sidenote: IIRC, Robi actually came onto the board sometime during those first few days to find out W*F I was up to -- he thought I was samefagging like a madman, and didn't realize I was just restoring our OG board by hand. LOL. (I think it wound up impressing him, actually.) :DD I remember those. I seriously considered buying one of those pens years ago after I saw your posts, Anon. (I got my first smol 3D-printer instead.) :^) >"I recommend the Gender 3 V3 SE" Lol. Do you mean 'Ender'? :D >=== -fmt, prose edit

>>27787 >Ender 3-B (220x220x250) I've never heard of that. Really look at the Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer, 250mm/s first. I've seen them as low as $185 and that speed difference is vast. You likely can most of the time print at 150mm/s reviews say. And if you obsessively tune it you could get max speed of 250mm/s. These new faster speeds are really significant. Changes 6 hour prints to 3 hours or less.

>>27804 It's just the regular Ender 3 (but it's the 'B' model ATP) I think.

>>27796 >I also posted about using those for welding prints together... ...SPEED DEPENDS ON FILAMENT, NOT THE PRINTER... Well I missed both of these things. I had never heard of these pens. I could see uses for them and they are so cheap, you know the old adage money or time. That speed is based on filament I've never heard anyone else say this. I could see this for each printer as each one can only heat and push filament at it's limit. https://3dprintbeginner.com/3d-printer-calibration/ This link looks like the mother of all tuning test printing for max printing. It's really impressive. They have separate prints that you tweak the constants as it's printing to see just what will work, where, with your individual printer. Videos and the whole works. 3D printer calibration revolutionised - Step by step to better print quality https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html An idea for stabilizing the machine. From doing holograms they used a car inner tube blown up with a large concretepavement blocks or boxes of sand on the inner tube. If it will work for holograms, which are notoriously sensitive, should be over kill for a 3D printer.

>>27809 >This link looks like the mother of all tuning test printing for max printing. It's really impressive. They have separate prints that you tweak the constants as it's printing to see just what will work, where, with your individual printer. Videos and the whole works. Thanks Anon! These will be very helpful I'm sure.

>>27798 I am thankful for all that you've done. You've nothing to apologize for, you've done an excellent job. New Years reminder to optimize prints. One of the best ways to optimize your printed models is to alter them for vase mode, spiralize outer contour, one continuous wall. Most printing problems happen when the nozzle has to hop or during bridging. Helpful link https://hackaday.com/2022/05/15/3d-printing-hack-leverages-vase-mode-structurally/

>>27809 Here's another really good tuning guide I had saved in a tab in another browser Ellis Print-Tuning-Guide https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ STL files that allow you to test all aspects of the printer and filament you are using. https://all3dp.com/2/best-3d-printer-test-print-3d-models/

>>27835 Thanks! You too Anon, I appreciate all your great inputs here on /robowaifu/ over the years. Cheers. >>27960 Thanks Anon, these are really helpful! Cheers. >=== -minor edit

Guys. ANYCUBIC Photon D2 Resin printers on Amazon are at a 35% discount after Christmas. This is a good time to get siginficantly better printers. I have two Ender 3 printers that I am going to ditch for these because resin has many advantages. You want the higher print resolution for more detailed robo parts, gears and stuff. More importantly though is the speed. Resin printers are able to achieve much higher print speeds than traditional printers. This is important because you can't make progress if you're always waiting for parts to be printed. You can't rapid prototype if your prototypes aren't rapid. Thread is dead. I'm reviving it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4QWYBZL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

>>27992 resin printers are for figurines. Its too delicate for robotics.

>>27992 Friendly reminder you need to keep your printer enclosed as the resin fumes will harm you. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the resin, it is actively harming you. Don't forget you need a vat of alcohol to clean your prints and a UV curing solution to finish them. >>27994 This is a common misconsception. Cheap low quality resin is indeed fragile. There are many resins with great physical properties that would work well in robotics applications. I'd suggest looking into tough resin. It is worth noting you can mix various resins to customize the desired properties. Mixing tough and flexible resins can result in highly durable parts. https://www.3dsourced.com/3d-printer-materials/abs-like-tough-resins/

I've been wanting to get a resin printer for making base bodies for dolls. I looked into the Photon D2 and it has amazing detail but the build volume is lacking for me. It would still be able to print some 1/3 scale dolls without splitting parts but other printers I've been interested in are the Mono X2 and Mars 4 Max that can do up to 1/2 (~90cm tall) I plan to try mixing Siraya Tech Tenacious or 3DMaterials Superflex with Resione F80 or 3DM SuperElastic into my dolls to make them durable and squeezable. People that make functional parts out of resin recommend Siraya Tech Blu to achieve a similar strength to filament which could be useful for making armatures too, but I'm just gonna stick to BJDs because I only want to make cute dolls and outer shell parts people can use in their robowaifus to make them cute.

>>28002 Great advice Anon, thanks. >>28007 Good luck with your printing goals, Anon!

>>28002 >This level of hardness is what you should expect from strong resins. Compared to ABS’ average Shore hardness of D 100, the highest measurement on the Shore scale, you can see why these resins are known as ABS-like. >In essence, strong resins are a lot tougher than their standard counterparts, but are still not quite as sturdy as standard ABS filaments. Anon stronger than average resin could mean stronger than fragile... I am using pla+ and its not as sturdy as I'd like it to be. Please do tell the results after you buy the printer however. I don't see whats being gained with your gamble however.

The extruder wasn't working so i swapped for a new one and now that one doesn't work right. This is miserable... but if i can't be an ender 3 technician i sure can't be a robowaifu technician...

>>27798 Thanks again for doing all of this.

TPU is the GOAT for battle bots, keep that in mind: https://youtube.com/shorts/wjkdCdX5Xmo - It's also very resistant against abrasion, which might make it even a good material for some gearboxes or at least some elements of it.

Oh, and we've got desktop silicone printers: https://youtu.be/4aMTPGpRYY0 https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/abstract/document/8404935 Unfortunately, price will be 5-6k and for the early prototypes it's rather 13k. >Additive manufacturing has a wide range of applications and addresses many challenges inherited from conventional molding techniques such as human error, multistep fabrication, and manual handling. However, 3D printing soft functional robots with two-part platinum cure silicones requires development to match the material performance of the molded counterparts. In this paper, we present a custom 3D printer and an extrusion mechanism capable of 3D printing soft functional robots. Moreover, we compare the performance differences between our 3D printed soft robots and molded counterparts via lamination casting and lost wax casting. We validate our results by conducting multiple experiments such as blocked force, bend angle, failure pressure, and dimensional quality analyses. We demonstrate that our method enables 3D printing of soft robots that can perform better, or match the performance of molded counterparts while being more reliable and robust with the usage of the same materials. https://www.3dsiliconeprinting.com/ OT (I hope), Radiation cleanup related: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/frobt.2019.00040/full

Mastermind behind the Marlin 3D Printer firmware >>29015

>>27835 >3D PRINTING HACK LEVERAGES VASE MODE STRUCTURALLY Thanks! Follow up: https://youtu.be/-dy-4_L4p9s I also recommend signing up to the channel: https://www.youtube.com/@DreadMakerRoberts Shaving prints instead of sanding: https://youtu.be/TbvFPN7yxt0 3D printing glue: https://youtu.be/zp6ODP8AJmk

Thanks for the nice contribs, NoidoDev. Cheers. :^)

via >30501 >This article demonstrates a two-step method to 3D print double network hydrogels at room temperature with a low-cost ($300) 3D printer. A first network precursor solution was made 3D printable via extrusion from a nozzle by adding a layered silicate to make it shear-thinning. After printing and UV-curing, objects were soaked in a second network precursor solution and UV-cured again to create interpenetrating networks of poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate) and polyacrylamide. By varying the ratio of polyacrylamide to cross-linker, the trade-off between stiffness and maximum elongation of the gel can be tuned to yield a compression strength and elastic modulus of 61.9 and 0.44 MPa, respectively, values that are greater than those reported for bovine cartilage. The maximum compressive (93.5 MPa) and tensile (1.4 MPa) strengths of the gel are twice that of previous 3D printed gels, and the gel does not deform after it is soaked in water. By 3D printing a synthetic meniscus from an X-ray computed tomography image of an anatomical model, we demonstrate the potential to customize hydrogel implants based on 3D images of a patient’s anatomy. https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acsbiomaterials.7b00094

I found what might be an excellent low cost resource. Used or refurbished 3D printers on ebay. I found by accident looking for 3D stuff on ebay. Creality has their own ebay store where they sell refurbished printers. The bad part, Creality's quality control sucks, bad. These are printers someone has already returned and while they say they refurbish them, some appear for the bad reviews to be thrown in the same box and shipped out again. So why bother? The VERY important point is because they are refurbished ebay, allstate insurance has a two year warranty on these things. They also tend to be slightly over or around half the cost. Still you might say that's a bad deal but if look at the reviews on Amazon the negatives tend to be Exactly the same percentage as they are on the returned, refurbished printers. So you're really not taking much if any more risk and you're getting a much better warranty. Another way to think of it that for any part that may be bad you could upgrade to a far better one, make sure everything works and still be out less money than the one bought new from Amazon, while taking no more numerical risk of getting a bad one. Now it would be nice to have the funds to buy a perfect printer but to get a really good one you're talking $500 or higher. Base model ender 3's you can get for around $100 used. I like the ender 3 V3 SE. I like the dual screws on the "Y" and "Z" axis. This gives you a great platform for stability and the direct drive extruder is far better as opposed to boden cables. Boden cables are likely to be a problem if you speed it up to go faster. The cable friction causes problems though at low speeds it's perfectly fine. SE, not the fastest, but I think you could add parts over time and make it better and better. Creality is not the best but they have so many sold there's a pile of hardware and software add-ons. So over time you could make it what you wanted while cheaply getting into it.

>>30917 Interesting idea. Thanks, Grommet! Cheers. :^)