So I was thinking about the skin. I think the skin can be 3d printed as well with something called TPE filament. It'd go on top of the exoskeleton and since its 3d printed the dimensions could be exact.

>>24149 Thanks for the mold information Anon. For those of us intending on doing production (like myself), these concepts will undoubtably play an important role -- particularly during the formative years of the companies. >>24151 >So I was thinking about the skin. Our new R&D general is the place to think about skin in general (apart from printing topics). >"...the topic of skin (without sensors)" (>>24152) Good luck Anon! :^)

This whole experience with the 3d printer has quiet literately felt like rocket science.I'm not supposed to know what stuff they used to make the drivers or whatever else work because I'm not the one who made them. I'm also not supposed to have to fix whats supposed to be a new product. Its too late to return this one now though. There are no 3d printer repairmen nearby I'd also have to take it apart and carry it for kilometers away to go get it fixed and then take it apart and put it back together again. I tried 4chan but they're not helpful at all. Can somebody atleast give me a hint as to whats wrong with this piece of junk? I'd pay money to see plastic come out of the extruder even. Its an ender 3.

>>24336 Well, at least it started moving. I don't understand why 4chan or other sites can't help. Did they at least point you into a direction? I also wonder why your're printing in the corner. You need to go through a checklist if the nozzle is close enough to the bed or if you're nozzle is clogged. Look for a checklist based on your problem e.g. "no filament comes out". >I'd also have to take it apart and carry it for kilometers away to go get it fixed and then take it apart and put it back together again. Yeah, don't do that.

>>24336 Why is your printhead over these clamps? What and why are they there? Did you watch or read any basic tutorial on how to print and use a slicer?

>>24339 The printhead is over piece of metal i bought at the screw store with a hole that happens to fit perfectly. The glue came off though now im using some fishing line to hold it in place. Might use both the glue and the fishing line or something. There's got to be something holding the nozzle in place. Maybe there used to be a piece of plastic there before or something but stuff just kind of disappears. I also bought some screws ofc that also dissapeared. I solved it moved too far off by just pushing it to the leftmost side and tightening the nut I in the back I guess. >>24337 No help whatsoever. I did push some plastic out of the nozzle with one of the torques I guess.

>>24336 I don't own one of these but I hear people talking about printing the built in model. The boat or other models. I think everything is all set up for these files and they are preloaded. Poke around the display and see if you can come up with a test print. Ender 3 3d printer test print and setup https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pRNxzESSOk There's got to be a gazillion videos and pages and pages of instruction on this. Ender 3 is, I think, one the original models that they made commercial from the open source model. https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/3d-print-an-stl-file https://howchoo.com/3dprinting/easiest-guide-to-leveling-and-test-printing There'several hundred if not thousands of these pages. Search for "set up ender 3", "troubleshoot ender 3", "test ender 3", you get the idea. One more, https://www.nikkoindustries.com/blogs/news/5-most-common-problems-with-the-creality-ender-3-troubleshooting-guide

One more there's 6 books on 3D printers here, http://libgen.rs/search.php?req=3d+print&open=0&res=25&view=simple&phrase=1&column=def "Maintaining and Troubleshooting Your 3D Printer" http://libgen.rs/book/index.php?md5=68475FC86BEB88CD59F275BE50DAF7EA

>>24344 WTF?! That's not how a printhead is supposed to work. It's not supposed to fall apart. What did these guys on 4chan say? Look at videos or pictures about the printhead for the Ender, how it is supposed to be. You might need some new parts. But first you need to understand whats broken and missing. Is this an Ender 3 from Creality or from some guy on Ebay?

I watched the video and it appears to me the first set up is incorrect. It thinks it's in the center but it's on the side. You need to go through whatever basic set up procedures there are for it. Did you level it? Is it self leveling? It won't print right if not level.

>>24347 I think I put it backwards but I lost the rubber thing might as well roll with this...

I don't know how exactly, but this might become a useful concept long-term - String Art Machine: https://youtu.be/M1gXuKFspgY I need something that can weave horizontal and vertical strings together, while also changing the shape of the output in both directions. Ideally the crossing points might get strongly connected or have a little rolling element in there to avoid abrasive friction.

>>24470 That video is really impressive. It goes to show what you can do with micro-controllers, a few motors and actuators.(really impressive thanks for finding this) >I need something that can weave horizontal and vertical strings together, while also changing the shape of the output in both directions. Now people made fun of me when I suggested using the basic motions of crochet or knitting to make robowaifu skin but I think this could be done and in some ways the video shows a "sort" of path to this kind of thing. It at least shows that you can automate thread patterns like this. You would have the machine hanging from the ceiling and the work hanging as it's made from the ceiling instead of being built from bottom up so the lower parts would just hang and not tangle the top as it's being knitted. Basic crochet and knit moves are very simple. You insert a hooked needle into a loop, twist the loop around the thread and then pull back. We're talking one or two needles that can move x-y, a thread placement actuator and a rotation servo for the needles. You could possibly weave one thread of skin color and one thread of some sort of flexible thread. To change volume you add another loop to the "splice" of the knitted skin suit. So you slice the body like normal 3D slicing of levels to print, crochet all the slices as a length to create volume and tie the levels together as you go. Like a large continuous spiral with variable spiral lengths depending on the volume at that skin suit position. Of course it's much easier to just sew the sides as everyone sensibly mentioned. For some reason I can't articulate these seams annoy me. Hence my thinking up complicated ways to avoid them. Sometimes certain looks of things you like or don't like for reasons that...just are. I don't know much about crochet but looking at Basic crochet vs knit videos it appears to me crochet is the way to go. kitting looks a little better...maybe, but crochet they say does not unravel easy. That means you get a nick or two in the skin the whole thing would not unravel. Of course as people here mentioned it's likely you will have some sort of silicon or other elastomer backing so it may not matter which, knitting or crochet. knitting seems to require more parts so... Now you can also see how to make "orifices" with crochet. Look at the sweater picture I linked. See how the arms are crocheted as the sweater is built? Imagine pulling the arms into the sweater and then imagine orifices made the same way as arms in a sweater. The skin would be pulled into an orifice and clamped down. Whatever was in the orifice, let's say eye's, could be pushed up against the opening and held in place. It would look just like normal, while still allowing you to replace the skin occasionally. For underhangs like arm pits or under knees you could make a bump. The back of the bump you could glue Velcro and then it would stay tight to the underhang. And yes I know this not the skin thread but the idea is about making a 3D machine to print the skin not the skin itself.

>>24470 I might add if you could get a crochet machine working you wouldn't need all those nails in the video. it would just crochet the whole thing.

Tentatively I think this new 3D printer Sovol SV07 Klipper Direct Drive Extruder 3D Printer Max Print Speed 500mm/s Meanwell Power Supply US $269.00 is a better buy than the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro $299 The Elegoo doesn't have wi-fi built in and there is comment that, "...Elegoo uses MKS electronics and the MKS Klipper hardware is riddled with issues. The MKS Pi and MKS SKIPR and in turn the N4 board which is a modified version of the SKIPR use the RK3328 mcu which is barely adequate to run Klipper at all and has frequent mcu disconnect issues. If you want more examples of how bad this hardware is look at the Libre Renegade it uses the same chip and has the same issues..." Sovol SV07 Klipper runs an extra board-display controller that uses THE open source code for Klipper. The board's made for it. On the other hand Sovol has some cheaper parts in places. If the reviews stay reasonbly good for the Sovol SV07 Klipper I think it would be better as changing a few parts would likely be cheaper and easier than dealing with software issues. Even if the software issues on that hardware turn out to be no problem the Elegoo has no wi-fi and you must buy a dongle and that's another few bucks and possibly software issues to get the dongle to work.

>>24470 Pretty remarkable Anon. >>24481 Very interesting Grommet. >>24500 Thanks for the information Anon, that helps.

>>24470 Excelent find, with the ideas from >>24481 the basis for a cloth scaffold could be realized. Would be difficult and time intensive but, has some promise. Would still recommend impregnating the result with silicone.

Got it working.What a mission that was. I'm impressed by it's precision and speed of the print. I wouldn't want to have to assemble it again though.

>>24596 Congratulations Pete. Good job getting your new printer working, looking forward to seeing you prints! Cheers. :^)

FDM printing of resin works, which might also be interesting for printing silicone rubber. The goal is continuous fiber printing, which will create very strong parts: https://youtu.be/jvjIXA4k-XU

>>24596 Use a nail clipper for the love of god don't bite your nails so close to the quick what is wrong with you? Nail clippers young man, use them.

>>24659 I did use nail clippers...

Though crude, explicit, and vulgar, this thread has some interesting things that may benefit 3D printed waifus. https://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=69416

3d printing with an ender 3 is painful. I read good things about the Kobra 3d printer. 500 mm/s much faster.

>>25835 Don't focus on speed so much, that said if you really print a lot, then a second printer can be a good idea. Or you just wait and do something else.

Revolutionary 3D printer! A reverse lathe! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58AD7zPnxcU

>>26053 >A reverse lathe! That is truly awesome in its potential to revolutionize so many industries. The exponential rate of technological development just got a logarithmic kick in its butt. With laser metal deposition you could make rocket engine nozzles for a fraction of today's costs. Elon Musk will be all over this. As soon as somebody release some decent code I need to build one of these. I'm not sure what I'll use it for yet, but I'll think of something. Thanks for the link Anon!

>>94 Just bought afdm 3d printer. I'll keep you guys updated when I finish it and start printing. My goal is to have it up and running within 4 weeks and print my first prototype robot waifu parts within 6 weeks from now.

>>26125 Great, good to hear. Where will you get the prototype parts from? Are modelling them or using existing parts?

>>26125 Awesome Anon! Welcome to the wide world of 3D printing. Study hard and robowaifus will be your reward!! Cheers. :^)

New Under 3 V3 SE freshly built and tested with slightly moist TPU. Excellent quality, had to destroy the print to get it off the bed. Just put on a PEI plate. Will update how that goes.

>>26208 That looks excellent, Kiwi. Thanks for the update! :^)

>>26208 Perfect prints that come off perfectly with a PEI plate on the bed.

>>26208 >TPU That looks really good. Might I bother you and ask if you know what shore the TPU is? It's the firmness of the plastic or squish per pound force, sorta. And how flexible did it come out? I wish someone sold a shore set on a key ring. Like different shores imprinted with what is what on a key ring. Thye have cheap shore meters, basically a point with a spring on it and a gauge. I may have to get one and go around poking on all the squeezable plastic I can find.

>>26210 Mind sharing which PEI plate you chose? BTW congrats on your new printer, Anon. Cheers. >=== -sp edit

>>26246 Almost all TPU filament has a shore hardness of 95A. I believe you mean to imply the use of a durometer. My print is very flexible, that can be adjusted by varying thickness and density. My sparse infill and 2mm thickness leads to a print which effortlessly can be rolled into a ball in my fist. Right now, the major hurdle is connecting the meshes to her forming rings. They stretch around screws when handled roughly. Staples get wrecked and stabbed me when it put a design through a cuddle test. >>26251 I use a fugacity PEI plate. Only because it was cheap, it has a crazy strong grip on prints thanks to its deep texture. Which is great, so long as you design around it. You need a deep chamfer or fillet to help pry prints off.

>>26253 >Right now, the major hurdle is connecting the meshes to her forming rings. Kind of what I'm thinking is a two-ring, inner/outer set that snap together and clasp down tightly all the intersecting edges of the mesh flats? >Staples get wrecked and stabbed me when it put a design through a cuddle test. Ouch! :D >I use a fugacity PEI plate. Thanks! Cheers. :^)

>>26253 >Almost all TPU filament has a shore hardness of 95A I had no idea. Learn something new every day. >durometer Yeah that's it.

TPU is the most based filament. Perfect for waifu. https://youtu.be/iWI1CFKiE3M?si=GPPUOmf9uGEhWe8w

>>26283 Excellent information Anon, very useful for beginners to flexible prints. Thanks! :^)

Pinned together prints offer an interesting road to explore. On another note, large flat PETG prints can effectively be accelerated by setting first layer speeds way up. 50mm/s works great. This square 16cm by 16cm by .8mm and printed in 25 minutes. It may be possible to print a whole waifu in one day with panels.

>>26532 Neat! Any chance you could give us another closeup shot of the pinned area for better clarity please?

Excellent resource for 3D printing without a slicer http://fullcontrolgcode.com/ https://youtu.be/Sp2qHM-0Boc?si=QG5mvE66I7E2DGFe

>>26532 >It may be possible to print a whole waifu in one day with panels. That is really excellent. I never thought about that. An idea. I was looking at carbon fiber videos and they were making hollow tubes for air inlets for cars, I think. They would make a split mold, cover the mold on both sides with release plastic. I bet the plastic was just the same stuff in grocery store bags. polyethylene I think. So they have the mold sides covered. They place carbon fiber over it inside the mold tube with slightly longer carbon to overlap. Put the mold together. Through the inside more plastic release making a hollow tube. They tape the ends of the plastic together to seal. One side has a tube to draw epoxy and the other side (top to bottom) a vacuum. They then draw up epoxy with a vacuum.The air pressure automatically presses the inner tube to the sides. When dry they have a strong tube. I don't know if it's strong enough, maybe so, but there are people who are making tiny travel trailers with foam insulation covered with canvas drop cloths that are impregnated with titebond II or III glue. This stuff is really strong. They're called "foamies trailer" or "camper". Search for this and you get all kinds of hits. They have forums where people try all sorts of stuff. Now the point to all this babbling is you make a framework like shown in the comment I linked to and that is your mold. Do the plastic insert with canvas, maybe with a few strips of carbon fiber then suck the titebond II up to impregnate the cloth and/or fiberglass,whatever. Epoxy is expensive and I don't think it's much stronger than titebond II which only cost about $30 USD compared to $100 for good epoxy. Another really super strong glue is "powdered urea formaldehyde plastic resin glue" you can get a gallon for $30 or so. Mix with water so it makes a lot. It's somewhat waterproof but not standing continuous water soak proof. It's generally used for woodworking so I expect it would be great for canvas.

>>26588 Very nice info Anon. I may try looking into this tool over Christmas season. >>26589 Very cool Grommet, thanks for the information. Any chance you could provide the board with some links to the things you mentioned? Cheers Anons. :^)

>>26589 links Teardrops n Tiny Travel https://www.tnttt.com/index.php The main index has lots of stuff on paint, covering etc this is the foamies specific link https://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=55&sid=22d13a3dc48202dd7c433d346c8a8709 Good search term for canvas with titebond glue and other plastic matrixes. "Poor-Man's Fiberglass" Back in the day they would use canvas covering wood for ships impregnated with paint. It's my understanding that done tight this last for decades without the wood rotting. Example, "...The original painted canvas has been on my boat for 55 years. It's kept on the water all year long in a covered slip. I re-coat the paint every 6-8 years..." https://forum.woodenboat.com/forum/building-repair/99214-paint-on-canvas?p=2741933#post2741933 This guy has a ton of composite manufacturing videos. Easy composites. He's using a bunch of professional materials but you could use less costly stuff. The ideas are the same though. Here's just one of his tube videos that I mentioned. "...Making Complex Carbon Fibre Tubes Using a Split-Mould..." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBbOUDDJv4Q Another good one is "Make Forged Carbon Fibre Parts Using Compression Moulding" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25PmqM24HEk I believe you could use the same techniques with vacuum impregnation. Cutting cost. Vacuum Infusion Process - Benefits, Dry Spots, Pinholes and More https://german-advanced-composites.com/vacuum-infusion-process-explained Resin Infusion - Stuart Boatworks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwKhnUCWQtQ In-Depth Guide to Resin Infusion (3m Kevlar Moulding) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMPSIKfkdtQ Glues, titebond II and III fairly waterproof. There's an old school type glue that is super, major strong. They made boats and the WWII Mosquito aircraft was glued together with this type glue. Urea Formaldehyde glue. People are using epoxy now because it's fairly easy to use but it's in no way as good as this stuff. The basic stuff is usually called Cascamite but it goes by a ton of trade names, Semforite, Cascamite, Aerolite. Links for water mix based glue (these guys say waterproof). It's true many people have made boats glued only with this stuff that last. But total waterproof is...hard to judge. It appears that some manufacturers have figured a way to make the water based glues waterproof but some are only partially waterproof. No standing water. Both named Cascamite. I can not judge is the newer water mix glues are really waterproof? Old boat builders say that the old Cascamite WAS waterproof. Is the newer???? http://www.semfor.co.uk/extramite.html Others they call water resistant. Means no continuous water standing. https://www.thenamethatsticks.com/products/cascamite-powdered-resin-one-shot-wood-glue/?page=1&rt=/products/&b=18 generic cascamite https://www.thenamethatsticks.com/products/woodstikk-one-shot-powder-urea-resin-cascamite-extramite-aerolite/ These guys say waterproof but it's still water mix based. Polyvine CAS15KG Cascamite Powdered Resin Wood Glue 1.5kg,White https://www.amazon.com/Cascamite-Powdered-Resin-Wood-1-5kg/dp/B0001OZI8Y?th=1 Now the Resorcinol Urea Formaldehyde glues are 100% waterproof and last forever but more expensive and two part with resin and activator but one of the best glues ever. You have to hunt for this stuff. It's used by the millions of tons on waterproof plywood and they use it to bond the fibers and rubber in tires together. Tough stuff. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resorcinol_glue Aerodux Resorcinol Resin https://www.amazon.com/Aerodux-Resorcinol-Resin-Kit-Quart/dp/B00DP5VQD2 A bit on glues and their properties https://www.classicboat.co.uk/practical-advice/adhesives-for-wooden-boats-structural-glues/ https://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Glue.html

>>26603 Excellent resources, Grommet! Thanks very kindly. Cheers. :^)

How to add a built in electroplating mechanism to a 3D printer. https://youtu.be/W1d36wbx_yg?si=u3gaIjPvEe1JanMU

>>26606 Just wanted to post the same thing. Thanks. This is very big, for example since it will make it harder to prevent people from getting motors for building robowaifus in some future dystopian society or current authoritarian countries.

>>26606 For future reference: This also includes how to 3D print a peristaltic pump which might last longer than regular ones.