Just in case anyone here has been living in a cave and isn't too sure just how the common 3D-printing of today works, the (((kikepedia))) article is a basic primer (if just a little shilly).

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication#Fused_deposition_modeling

This video here is pure Gold, I will probably post it more then once. It's about keeping in mind that plastics might want to break under stress and how to design a print to get rods and screws into it. https://youtu.be/j6508J94VsA[Remove]

Here's a site for printer calibration: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html Lot of information, links, calculators, test print files, etc. even gcode for a temperature tower, or acceleration tower.

If someone gets a Artillery printer or needs to install Slic3r on a Raspi, around the year 2020. I went through it, so stop guessing: Forget the manual of the printer, or as soons as you run into problems go here: http://artillery.n3t.ro/ If your bedleveling wheels are falling of while trying to get it right, then the printhead is to far away from bed, sensor needs to moved down, it's in the tutorial above. But use "Z" in Home menu, not "Home" after moving the sensor. The head of my printer punched quite a bit into the bed... 30 min unpacking and then it works?!? My A..! Slic3r on Raspian: https://github.com/iot-salzburg/Slic3r Delete subfolder "local-lib" after unpacking in Slic3r folder I did [code]export BOOST_DIR=./xs/src/boost[code] but I'm not sure if this was just unnecessary. sudo perl Build.PL NOT ./Build.PL sudo apt install libwx-perl sudo perl Build.PL --gui

Oh I forget to mention, you'll need to install liboost-all-dev so you can rebuild the whole thing. And how I just now found out, you need to activate OpenGL in raspi-config before building the gui, also install libopengl0 and libopengl-perl. OMG, now it seems to work!

>>4723 Yep durability is important. >>4768 Neat, that's handy. >>4778 >>4780 Thank you for the tips Anon. '_'7

>>4778 It's nearly two weeks with my printer now, though I did have to wait for my filament some more days. However, I'm still learning about it it. Didn't print much usefull so far, only testing. There's quite a learning curve, at least with cheap PLA and ambitions like wanting to print fast, as hot as possible, and also get to know the limits of the machine. This guide here helped me more than some forums and boards: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ Also looking into /r/FixMyPrint on Reddit is recommended. How fast you can and want to go: https://youtu.be/V5g32AtYczE There are several vids on printing fast and strong with a bigger nozzle. I already knew those, and probably shouldn't waste time on trying to find the sweet spot for my 0.4 nozzle. I already got bigger ones, but also some very small ones will arrive soon, so I can try how fine I can go with my printer. https://youtu.be/jyhLQUQTc9E I have to hurry it up a bit, since I'm going to receive 6kg more PLA soon, also TPU and PETG.

>>4949 That must be exciting. Good luck!

I watched the remarkable prosthetic hand video Anon linked to >>4945 , and it got me interested in resin printing. Can some anon here get us all up to speed on resin printing please? What it is, how to use it, what are the recommend printers, etc. TIA.

>>4954 We should rather point to ressources, instead of explaining everything here. There are the common channels on YouTube, with infos about it: Sanladerer, TeachingTech, 3D Printing Nerd, Makers Muse, CNC Kitchen, ... and probably more. I don't have experience with it anyways, only watched vids and followed some discussions on other boards. However, her some things I picked up: - It only became interesting for hobbiests recently. - They are sill more expensive for less build volume. - They have a bit of a different target group for that reason, people seem to print figurines with high details, some are used in games like D&D. Some owners of such printers sell them to others. - I think multimalterial/multicolor versions are not possible or difficult with resin. - It's messier, you need to work on your prints when they're coming out of your printer. - It's more toxic, you'll need airfilter or a method to get the stuff out of your room by ventilation. Shouldn't be in the same room when printing, just in case. - Might need to work with bigger amounts of dangerous fluids. - Getting rid of some used fluids with resin waste, in a legit way, may also be a problem. - Elegoo and Anicubic are the producers of the most talked producers, though Prusa also offers one. -This addon here seems to help, but the vid also shows some of the work: https://youtu.be/TgPxE5gUjlo

>>4960 >We should rather point to ressources, instead of explaining everything here. Suit yourself Anon ofc, but I prefer to help Anons out with every thing I possibly know (or can figure out) about anything related to the field of robowaifus. This is far too vast a topic for anyone man to master in a lifetime. If each of us was forced to learn everything from first principles, then this will never happen. I would propose doing otherwise and helping everyone out with everything each of us know. Certainly the resources are of great benefit as well of course, and we thank you for taking the time to locate and share them here Anon.

>>4962 Just meant, I won't try to write down all I know on resin printing, but then went on and did it anyways. However, there will be resources with more and more knowledge. I wouldn't try to copypaste all of it here... Having that said, one correction: I posted a vid above about this flexbed for such printers. Here's a posting about that from 4chans /diy/: >>> I don't think it's that necessary, the guy in the video is embellishing the problem to make the product look more attractive. I've seen people gouge the surface violently with the spatula, when all you need to do is wedge a sharp thin blade into a corner and gently lift it to peel off the bottom layer like you would a sticker. Once a corner gets going, the rest just pops off at one point. >>>Getting a print off isn't messy either because you're supposed to wash and dry the plate with the print on it before you attempt to remove it. It's nice that you can just "pop it off" but you still need to wash both the springy sheet and the buildplate after that so.. it's the same deal. >>>The argument that "you can use less supports!" is empty too, because unlike with FDM, for SLA supports are a good thing. The first few layers are always overexposed on purpose to ensure plate adhesion, and if those layers are part of the actual print you're going to lose accuracy there. Any holes and gaps will get filled in. Since printing is upside down, you're trying to prevent the part from "falling upwards" as you see it in the slicer preview, not so much to "prop up an overhang from falling down" like in FDM.

>>4964 > I wouldn't try to copypaste all of it here... Ahh I see. BTW, I don't mean to be pushy about something like this. My apologies. We very much appreciate all your input Anon.

The best way to give FDM prints a nice finish seems to be adding some resin to the surface. Sanladerer does it with SLA resin here: https://youtu.be/nOZaTB34RrI In the comments others were correcting his errors, like he would need to add a wax layer at the end or put in water to let it cure. So he wouldn't have a sticky layer on top of it at the end. Also, other resins are mentioned in the comments, like ones for fiberglas, maybe also with some added color. Anyone doing any of this, please learn about the security advices first and follow them.

This calibration guide has been really helpful. Everyone should level ones bed with his first layer check: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html I'm currently looking into mitigating mesh errors in 3d models which I want to print. Sometimes they appear after cutting a cgi model to alter it: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/identifying-and-repairing-common-mesh-errors/

How to design 3d models for printing, so they can be printed without supports for example: https://youtu.be/SBHHwid7DWM (Pic related, parts from InMoov head)

>>5224 Thanks that should be very helpful. Any idea what the comparable strength would be this way?

>>5225 (Lost my first answer to this, bc this board doesn't store the data... Always keep long answers in an extra file or Clipboard) I don't know what you mean. There were different parts and approaches in that video. It's about making parts easier to print, with less material, faster, and less time to clean up. Making a design a bit bionic might also increase strength, though, since you add material into it so it is stronger while printing... However, if strength is your concern, it's said that bigger layers, more heat is how you get there. If that's not enough, switch to a stronger material. Layers of ABS and ASA are also stronger when printed in an enclosure. Then Annealing is also an option, but quite some work: https://youtu.be/bG8dlxTX3AI or manual reinforcement with a carbon fiber and resin in post processing.

Where do I get 3d printable files? Not a very interesting question, I thought. Go to Thingiverse. Yeah, and there are other websites... Now Angus made a video... https://youtu.be/CLRWCtQ5KZY ...wow Not all of what's interesting about the alternative sources is related to /robowaifu/, but some is: Traceparts let's you download all kinds of models for mechanical parts, which exist as metal version, so you can try it out first... Also GrabCAD: All kind of assemblies... Parts that fit to standard parts, like Nema 17 motor dampers,... In other cases its so that parts might be useful for someone building a robowaifu, but its hard to tell: Medical models, figurines, stuff from museums ... (Egyptian inspired Catgirls?) Links to the sites from the video, the description under the YouTube video links directly to the shown files, but I didn't copy those links. 1 - Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/ 2 - MyMiniFactory https://www.myminifactory.com/ 3 - YouMagine https://www.youmagine.com 4 - Cults3D https://cults3d.com/ 5 - Smithsonian https://3d.si.edu 6 - NIH 3D Print Exchange https://3dprint.nih.gov/ 7 - GrabCAD https://grabcad.com/ 8 - traceparts https://www.traceparts.com/ 9 - STL Hive NO LONGER EXISTS 10 - The DM Workshop https://www.shapeways.com/ Maker's Muse 3D Printable Models! https://makersmuse.podia.com/

>>5234 Thank you for your efforts Anon. We should really create some kind of organized /robowaifu/ resource catalog here.

>>5235 Answer in the meta thread bc this might go OT/meta: >>5242

Crush Ribs for bearings: https://youtu.be/0h6dCeATkrU and https://youtu.be/kJ_ukmL5Uls

>>8208 Neat, thanks.

Does anyone know anything about LAM? I am looking into Colombia's soft muscle technology and it is really interesting. They custom built their own LAM printer for the project and I am wondering if I could do the same.

>>8468 Great, for you to participate, but please link to some article, paper or video which shows what you are talking about. I couldn't even find anything using you terms you mentioned.

Related, printing silicone rubber with a 3d printer: >>8742

Some guy build a dual extruder for his Ender 3, which receives a lot of interest and praise. It's of course not tested yet by many people during a extended period of time. Might be interesting to look into it during the year, maybe then there's better support for it (the elctronic board and firmware is the problem). Maybe it's gonna be part of newer printers, or I just need another board. It could help for prints with supports or with softer and more rigid parts. https://properprinting.pro/product/dual-extrusion-system-for-creality-printers-aka-the-rocker/ https://youtu.be/OBB5WuhNhWk

>>8850 Good luck Anon.

Here's some diagram about different nozzles for printers. Nothing special, but maybe interesting. I'm using brass so far, but also have steel nozzles in case I might need them. Only recently watched a video where carbon fiber nylon filament actually got some recommendation, the claim was that this combination would print really good on normal printers. Of course, that still needs a harder nozzle than the brass ones, which are good as standard nozzles. Just wanted to mention, that it is a good idea to make sure, if you disassemble your printer, to check that the screwheads of your screws a still fine. I wrecked one of my screws in the printhead and now need to drill into the screw and use a lefthand drill to remove it (Not asking for common ideas, already looked into my options).

>>9145 Thanks Anon! Just in time too, my printer nozzle jammed and I can't print ATM. Maybe this will help me and others here out. Cheers.

Here some infos on how to print gears the best way: https://youtu.be/JMgXu1rFDJ0 - using PC if possible, putting metal bolts into small gears, print the parts separated in the right orientation for maximum durability, using dual-helical (heringbone) gears instead spur or helical gears. Heringbone in Fusion 360: https://youtu.be/MtK6yK0NRM0

>>9798 Nice info, thanks Anon.

>>9145 That seems off about ruby nozzles. Yes the thermal conductivity isn't very good but there's only a tiny piece of ruby at the end of the nozzle where it matters, the filament gets melted in the metal part before reaching it so the real thermal conductivity of the nozzle depends on what metal it's made out of. Also saw this recently which seems like a fantastic idea for decreasing print time and wasted filament. Plus parts that would be too wasteful to print due to large supports that would use up more filament than the part itself are now feasible which will lead to new designs. https://www.3dnatives.com/en/moving-platform-3d-printer-070420214/

>>9814 You might be right, didn't even recognize that. Also, I don't know. But your argument makes sense. In regard to your link, thanks, but I'm not to enthusiastic about it. It might get patented, it's probably a complex mechanism, it might only be useful in certain cases, and support material mostly isn't that expensive. The site itself on the other hand is interesting, I should read more news like that.

>>9846 Huh. That's interesting. I wonder how you integrate inside the software to properly work with the standoffs like that and adjust the length of the supports? I mean, is there a 'use standoffs' checkbox or how does that work exactly?

>>9846 One of the biggest issues for repeatability with FDM is the consistency in diameter of the filament with tighter tolerances being more expensive due to higher quality control. This investment in a printer would make buying higher quality filament more economical in the long run. And the most notable thing in that image isn't the filament that wasn't wasted but the time not spent moving the print head around to create an unnecessary part. There's also parts like this that would be difficult or impossible to print without such a platform. >>9847 They're probably using custom gcode for research now.

>>9848 >They're probably using custom gcode for research now. I see. Thanks for the information Anon. I was entirely unaware of any such 'dynamic print bed' type printers. I wonder if they could be usable by hobby-tier robowaifuists someday?

>>9849 The "hobby-tier" printers are rather ones which aren't industrial or something, but also still for professionals which are using them for prototyping. (I don't like the distinction in pro and hobby). I guess something like that is surely possible, if it has enough benefits. But not for the cheapest models. Looks to me like it requires a core XY system, so the bed doesn't move. Which already makes sense for very small and fast, or the bigger ones. Not so much for the cheap 20+X cm.

Maker's Muse on 3D printing myths: https://youtu.be/oX4up29xUuw[Embed] - It's a new technology (it's 40yrs old) - ABS ist stronger and better than PLA (if it is, then it's a amalgam, a mix) - Bed leveling isn't leveling at all (there's also tramming) - Paper is good enough to level bed (feeler gauge is better)

New printing material: PVB Needs to be kept cooler than 60C, might be interesting for shells bc can be smoothed and there might be cooling underneath such shell. Can be nearly transparent. >PVB is still a great material for 3D printing and offers a few mechanical advantages over other filaments. According to Prusa Research’s material comparison sheet, PVB has a higher (better) tensile strength than ABS and PETG, meaning it can take more physical stress before snapping. PVB also has greater impact resistance than PLA and ABS and is even slightly flexible, although nowhere near as flexible as truly flexible materials like TPU or TPE. >Although PVB’s low melting temperature makes it a more easily printable material, it also contributes to worse mechanical properties. The low melting temperature results in PVB having poor layer-to-layer adhesion, which might mean prints are more brittle and more easily snapped. https://all3dp.com/2/pvb-filament-simply-explained/ Material comparison: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials

Makers Muse with some great ideas again: https://youtu.be/pMA7aWCoWJ4 - Folding mechanisms in plastics - Printing on textiles - Plastic hinges for light mechanisms - Cutting with laser cuter, then print on it Of course, these hinges might not last that long, but for cheaper robowaifus, where parts can be replaced, it might make sense.

>>12022 Thanks Anon, much appreciated!

https://hackaday.com/2021/08/03/strangest-upside-down-3d-printer-fits-in-a-filament-box/ https://youtu.be/ZAPaOevoeX0 A new interesting FDM printer just announced called the Positron. Had something similar in the back of my mind with the delta Simpson printer printing upside down with a movable Z axis to make up for its poor height print limitation. Using an X&Y gantry is a much better idea unless you need 6 degrees of freedom on the print head. Printing upside down with filament is nothing new and doesn't totally solve the bridging issue. But with the new 90 degree print head pushing filament upwards there may be a solution on the way. It's also a game changer in allowing for much heavier print heads instead of trying to make them as light as possible. His was made for a small desktop footprint and to be folded for portability, using a large marble slab or several thick slabs of very flat glass with air bearings instead of linear rails you could probably get much faster speeds with a larger print volume without spending a lot on long linear rails. Plus having a super accurate and powerful stand alone Z axis means this can easily be converted to an MSLA printer.

>>12151 Wow, this looks really interesting Anon. Sounds like it could be a game-changer in many ways if it takes off with lots of competing manufacturers offering this kind of design. >MSLA printer I didn't realize they were called that, thanks.

>>12152 The thing with MSLA printers is over 60% of the cost is in the Z axis as it has to be powerful and accurate to lift a large bed out of a vat of thick liquid that has a suction force working against it. The special high resolution monochrome screens and UV light matrix are cheap compared to that. I can see a drop in add on for the Positron that makes it double as a MSLA printer, especially with the removable print bed. It's not possible with other types of FDM style printers.

What would be a good Tubing Brand to buy replacement tubing? I had heard of some brands but wanted a second opinion before I attempt to re assemble my extruder.

I wanted to buy glue for my prints, today. Only realized in the shop that I forgot everything about fusing prints together and didn't know which one to buy. Remembered vaguely that maybe ABS can be fused together with acetone, but not PLA. So I bought just some fast curing glue, which is based on cyanoacrylate. At home, when I wanted to put it down at a suitable place I found the one I already had, lol. Here some article on how to glue PLA prints: https://3dinsider.com/how-to-glue-pla >Cyanoacrylate glue Works, needs rough surface, burns into it, suboptimal shear strength. >Urethane glue Similarly strong to cyanoacrylate, but more flexible bonds. Can withstand most indoor and outdoor conditions. More suitable for heavy-duty applications, but should have a week to fully cure. Not useful for thin and small sections because of temperature while curing. >Epoxy resin Might create heat, but depends on the product, same for the toxic fumes. Little bit more complex to apply, might take 72h to cure. "Bonds created by epoxy resin are extremely tough. When applied to PLA, the PLA parts are more likely to break apart before the epoxy resin bond will break." >Acrylic glue Needs highly controlled conditions. Actually dissolves the PLA material. Dangerous for small and thin parts but extremely strong bond. Ventilation (or outdoor), eye protection and breathing protection are necessary. >PLA 3D pen Like a soldering iron. Very useful for filling in gaps between separate parts, but applying only a very thin layer is almost impossible. Needs skill. >actual soldering iron Might also work, but the molten plastic can be very hard to control. Needs even more skill and experience.

>>12156 Sorry than no one answered this. I have no experience in buying such tube, and I'm sure opinions differ on that. Btw, the 3d printing thread on 4chan/diy is really quite helpful with such questions.

>>14052 Cyanoacrylate has never bonded PLA prints for me. Hot glue has worked the best for me. Acrylic would be good for smaller parts.

>>14059 >Cyanoacrylate has never bonded PLA prints for me That's odd. I used it on small parts, worked even to fast to correct some little error.

>>14063 Huh, I used PLA+ with dollar store cyanoacrylate glue. Did you use normal PLA or different cyan glue?

>>14064 Normal, very cheap PLA from Anet, glue from China shop (our version of dollar store here).

>>14358 ^ Mechanical properties of 3D printing materials for robots. How to chose and use them.

Texturing 3D prints for strength: https://youtu.be/3-ygdNQThAs

Using resin to smooth 3D prints https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OziH3Y2ySNo

>>14385 Yes, good topic and good video. Though, airbrushing it is new to me, or I forgot about it. The 3D Printing General also did a video on air brushing, but not with resin (and without security advice): https://youtu.be/1QwfwL3L4c0 I'm about to pull the trigger on some dual component resin for glas fibers, which can be used for smoothing. It doesn't need UV light. Just want to look around first in case they have it locally. Smoothing >>5137 Reinforcement with fiber and resin >>5227 I'm looking forward to some more ideas and progress there. TPU smoothing with some flexible resin would be nice. Also some coloring per layer, and then translucent but not shiny layer on top of it (for the parts which should look a bit more like skin). Same Youtuber is getting into regular painting of skin tones here: https://youtu.be/x8sdC7gc4Iw Personally I would like to mold silicone rubber skin, so I'll need the smooting for the molds. The other way would be, printing a mold, use clay to make a negative, work on it and make it smooth, then make a resin mold with the smoothed clay

>>14385 Are there any resources here on translucent filaments? Have not seen much of them in my travels and in some of these videos the engineers use them to have an easier time troubleshooting parts.

>>14385 >Using resin to smooth 3D prints I'd recommend using something like ASA filament instead. You can use acetone vapors to smooth it like ABS but it's as easy to print as PLA. Here's a before and after picture, as you can see a lot of detail is kept after the smoothing.

>>14900 Wow! Those results look amazing Anon, thanks for pointing this out. Know of any further, related resources on this technique?

>>14938 Problem with vapor smoothing is the loss of detail which will effect things like the threading you see on that pic. The process is incredibly simple as it just involves suspending the ASA/ABS print inside of a chamber filled with acetone. https://all3dp.com/2/abs-smoothing-a-beginners-guide-to-abs-vapor-smoothing/ >>14900 PLA smoothing can be achieved by simply sanding the print with fine and then applying resin for a decent project. For the threading you would use a hobby knife to elide rough layers. You do not under any circumstances want to use a sanding chamber. Sandblasting will destroy your print extremely quickly. https://www.makerbot.com/professional/post-processing/sanding/ There are other chemicals you can use to vapor smoothing PLA and even PC, but I wouldn't fuck around with shit like DCM unless you have a clean, well ventilated lab with the proper tools and PPE. You don't want to die giving your waifu shiny, smooth, hard booba.

>>15701 Thanks very much for the tips Anon.

High speed PLA profile for Ender 3 using Cura. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_9ADBZVCoA&t=355shttps://thangs.com/designer/CHEP/3d-model/Filament%2520Friday%2520Extra%2520Fast%2520Cura%2520Profile-56518

leaving this here Injection molding meets 3D printing in this 300 piece 3D printed injection molding machine https: //www.3ders.org/articles/20160331-injection-molding-meets-3d-printing-in-this-300-piece-3d-printed-injection-molding-machine.html

Many print quality issues and long term maintenance requirements explained in one video: https://youtu.be/-cm1vIER_bk

This is about putting hardware into paused prints and printing it into the parts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rk6MkW1eRiY

>>17074 Make sure your captive part is nice and degreased so the next layer can stick to it, one idea I haven't tried is using a gluestick on the top surface of the part. It also helps for the part to be as flat as possible.

Filament colors matter for strength and other traits, but it's complicated: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMSp1WDqtpI tl;dw: If some filament doesn't work well enough try another color, even if everything is the same. Also stay away from specialty colors variants like mat or shiny.

>>19643 Thanks for the advice Anon.

FYI, this patent expired a few months ago. This would allow us to do really elaborate multi-material printing of any arbitrary thermoset resin. Basically it would let us print robowaifus like they do in westworld. https://www.fabbaloo.com/2020/03/the-challenge-and-opportunity-of-3d-printing-patent-684116b2

>>20917 Wow, this article is either written very badly or I have brain damage. He could just get to the point. What will be available and how is it better? The poster here could also put it into the comment, but okay. I don't want to try parsing legalese to get the first part. After looking at it again, I understand now it's about printing layers with photoresin. I still don't know why this would be a big deal. We'll see.

>>20927 No it's not for UV resin. The patent covers a cooled extruder/resin jet in a heated build chamber so that you can use any regular thermoset resin, e.g. silicone, polyurethane, epoxy, polyimide, etc, etc. This lets you do high resolution multi-material 3d printing, which would theoretically let you print-in-place soft robot muscles in a photorealistic humanoid robot.

>>20935 > silicone, polyurethane, epoxy, polyimide, etc, etc. This lets you do high resolution multi-material 3d printing, which would theoretically let you print-in-place soft robot muscles in a photorealistic humanoid robot. Oh, okay, this is great. Thanks.

I had the idea of getting a second printer for quite a while. Something very cheap and more likely with a fast Bowden style extruder. My current favorites are: - Anycubic Kobra: Very fast but seems to have some issues - Biqu B1: Slower, bit cheaper, more mature, very positive reviews even when it came out Kobra review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFH0lFZHeAs Biqu B1 reviews: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3BQoxymN-E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW4DaWCd0Xs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bga6__AGYiI

>>21423 Thanks Anon!

>>12022 >https://youtu.be/kJ_ukmL5Uls That's a good video and it sparked one of my brain cells to remember this sort of hinge made of rope. Boat people came up with it. I can't find the link but I saved a picture. You notice the "live" hinges that he showed in the video. These are in all sorts of cheap boxes and they break, eventually. So this rope hinge trick is good for fixing these when they break. Drill a few holes and run some string through it. Now you have a good hinge on your cheap plastic box. Now these "might" come in handy for waifus. You only need to place some holes and depending on the rope you use and how tight you make it it could act as a sort of flexible tendon. For something like a hip socket you could make two hinges back to back and the socket would flex just like a round hip socket in all directions. A bit of a kludge but I could see an advantage of having a sort of rope tendon to keep the socket in place that can be adjusted for tension.

>>23341 Didn't watch the video yet, but this looks very interesting. The more I think about very advanced robotwaifus the more I think they should to a huge part be made out of ropes, strings, tubes, meshes and 3D soft materials. I plan to look more into these projects where people design shoes for printing out of TPU.

>>8208 >Crush Ribs for bearings I saw this, another good idea. There is a modification that could be helpful. There's a connector called a seal tight connector that is used for electrical work. It mates a flexible electric hose to a rigid connector for outdoor electrical equipment. You'll see these on air conditioners outdoors. On the comments for, Crush Ribs for bearings one detriment someone noted here is, https://hackaday.com/2020/10/15/adding-crush-ribs-to-3d-printed-parts-for-a-better-press-fit/ "...As many have mentioned, if the bore is holding a bearing, then the crush ribs will be all that’s holding it and bad things will likely happen...." If you look at the seal tight connector picture I uploaded you will see that there is an inner part that goes in the hose(edit...Oops. This is Chinese junk where they leave out the inner piece. It will work without it for our case as the bearing is the inner ring.). A crush fit ring that fits on the outside of the hose, (claw), and then a locking nut that pushes down the crush fit ring. The same could be used for bearings and other parts in 3D printing. The crush fit and the inner portion of the nut where the crush ring sits are beveled and as you tighten it it pushes in the crush ring. One of the advantages of this sort of thing is you have instead of a few small crush ring, tiny ribs, you have a very large segregated ring that provides support over a large area(claw).

>>23344 >Didn't watch the video yet It's a good video but to save you the trouble of watching. You know cheap plastic boxes with a thin part for a hinge? That's what he's talking about in one section. They flex but....only so may times before they break.

I have ideas ALL the damn time and then shortly after I have them someone writes up the same damn thing. Anyways I just had this idea on making skin. I've really pondered this. I've come to the conclusion that microfiber is the way to go. It's so soft. Waterproof, easy to clean, ideal. It's easy to find the cloth. The problem is that where you joined it would be lines. Maybe no big deal but... Anyways I was pondering this again and looking at one of the videos linked here and in the side bar of the video was Production of 3D Knitwear https://www.3dnatives.com/en/3d-printing-knitwear-220720215/ I had thought of the exact same thing and have been looking for spools of microfiber thread. Because knitting can use single fibers and make whatever shape. If you've ever seen Women knitting little baby jumpers, you can make whatever with it. The motions are not super complex. So maybe you could 3D print a knitting machine and each layer, knitted, would be a different length as it goes up the body suit. Maybe? you could use the same sort of layer g-code. Instead of so much plastic extruded per inch it would be so many knit knots per inch. So you have a big spool of microfiber that knits up a body suit. Finding raw spools of just the thread I haven't had much luck but there must be somewhere you can get this. After you knit the suit on the back side of the suit you smear something like silicon or TPU. Make your knitting loose so it will be flexible. You may have to print a 3D body, put release oil on it, smear your rubber polymer then stretch the knit over it, then dry. The loose fibers along with the flexible polymer backing would allow you to squeeze it over the body parts. Possibly use Velcro for concave areas. Advantages are you have an easy to clean very soft exterior skin. Silicon and all the various rubbers really suck and feel sticky and gross. This microfiber feels very soft. Once the code is figured out for this machine then it could be easily replicated and the machine 3D printed because the knitting will naturally be loose on purpose. It a series of repeated motions. When you knit it have it knit so that the body suit hangs upside down as it knits to not get tangled. You could even knit "various"orifices as tight tubes. These would only be a couple inches deep with various appliances, I won't go into detail, that could be stitched to the skin and anchored on the skeleton frame. These would be removable. I envision them to have tubes connecting them from the mouth to the gentiles so that by swallowing water and manipulating muscles in the orifices it could clean itself. So you get fantastic manipulating muscles in the orifices and cleaning at the same time. Now let's go even further. Could you build you're own microfiber maker machine??? The most common types of microfiber are made variously of polyesters. Made by melt spinning. A video of the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22VC_8xcyrs It's basically 3D extruding at a micro scale. There's also electrospinning to make the same sort of fibers. It might be difficult to get one of these to work but not impossible. I see this company saying they "...capable of spinning up to 6,000 meters per minute..." WOW. We wouldn't need anything like that. To really go far out there. I know these can be dyed. I wonder of you could dye it on the fly. So that you have skin tones knitted as the skin suit is made??? Gay knit boy teaches you how to knit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_R1UDsNOMk If you watch gay knit boy you could also use some sort of high quality wool. See all those loops. That would be a really nice light furry finish. Much like the light fine hairs on Women. I'll stop I'm getting carried away a bit.

I moved my comments to the skin thread. Here. >>23354

I returned my printer cause it had a broken touch screen. I think it was a kingroon. I do not recommend it it also comes with a bulky psu. After I get my refund I'll be getting a cheap 3d printer without a touchscreen. The print quality is not that important anyways I can polish it with sandpaper or whatever if it comes down to it.

>>23353 >'ve come to the conclusion that microfiber is the way to go. It's so soft. You may very well be right. We've discussed this idea, and AFAICT the concept of impregnating that cloth with some sort of silicone-like product seems a good idea.

>>23341 Neat sketch. Sauce?

>>23356 Maybe I got a bit frustrated cause it came with a broken screen I don't know maybe it does good prints though.

>>23353 >knitting, crocheting I looked into some Youtube videos. Crocheting seems generally not to work with machines. For knitting circular things like socks, machines exist, and some seem to be 3D printed and simple enough to replicate. >braided ropes If we wanted to combine some string made out of a specific material with others, creating some braided rope, this could also be automatized using DIY machines. My interest in this is not so much the skin but internal elements and also using plastic fibers and ropes (e.g. Nylon). It's not strictly 3D printing, but it's close if we would make 3D elements out of it, which is why I put it here for now. One rather simple use case would be to use flexible tubes and cables, put a sleeve around them and then fill the spaces outside of the tubes with silicone rubber. The sleeve would constrain them more than just the silicon rubber would. They would move more as a group, maybe looking like a human muscle, instead every tube and cable bending on it's own. These tubes could for example be guides for strings pulled by some actuator.

>>23384 >Neat sketch. Sauce? I looked and looked and can not find it. All I have is the picture. I'm interested in boats and probably got it from some boat forum. But where? I don't know. If it's the knots thta interest you here's a few of the best knots ever Rosendahl bend The best way "oeriod" to tie two roped together. No matter how hard it pulled you can easily untie it and as tying ropes makes them weaker this does so less than most anything. Zeppelin Loop You can also make a loop or hitch with it though a little more complicated. Blakes_hitch_knot_retouched A climbing hitch. If you pull on the ropes left part it clinches down hard on the rope. But if you push the coils up or down the rope it moves easy. Then yank the left end of the rope and it clinches down again. Icicle Hitch (Loop Method) Great way to tie onto something

A great hitch grapple hitch Simple, works great. He mentions the, Adjustable_grip_hitch_knot which I like better for no good reason except I seem to be able to remember it better. Not much that you can't do with these few knots. People who are obsessed with knots and have actually tied up large amounts of knots and pulled them to breaking, and also rating ease of tying and untying rate all these knots very high but you don't see them much for some reason. People tie knots that are not near as good and jam so you can't get them loose. My interest in knots, though I'm not some sort of knot expert, is likely why I think knitting or crocheting a skinsuit is a good idea.

>>23408 >flexible tubes Something similar I thought of Muscle bladder with motor inside Motor in center wind up rope pulling bladder ends in. Airtight bladder expands when ends pulled in. Mesh helps with strength so it doesn't burst. Of course extended use would cause heat problems in the motor. If I understand what you said the tubes allow the string to pull on one side of bone crushing the silicon and making it expand in the middle like muscle. That could work "if" the silicon doesn't constrict the tube such that the rope binds. Maybe??? Silicon muscle with interlocking tubes that have rope pulled through them

Who makes the best 3D printer that can print TPE, ABS, Nylon for under say $300? All the cheap ones like the 3D Ender seem to do ok but their quality is really iffy according to some. Some work, some are crap. I wish someone made a cheap scara 3D printer that had open source software.

>>23453 The first 3d printer was open source in fact. The rep rap. I don't know much about 3d printed but a cheap 3d printer ought to do really. We're not trying to make super detailed dnd figurines.

Looking around I see this on Amazon Creality Ender 3 Neo 3D Printers with CR Touch Auto Leveling Bed Silent Mainboard Full-Metal Extruder Carborundum Platform DIY Ender 3D Printer for Kids Beginners Printing Size 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch 4.2 4.2 out of 5 stars 66 ratings It has, I think, an extruder NOT boden so it will print TPE with less problems which might come in handy. They do seem to have quality problems but they also will support it with parts and returns. I think one of the biggest advantages to this brand is so many of them are around they have all sorts of upgrades and online help. So it may not be perfect but you can goof around with it and add stuff to get it to do what you want. I don't have to have one of these right now but I'm always looking. I also see the A8 3d Printer which copies a far more expensive printer the Prusa. But...the question is if you have problems will you have the same level of support. Maybe not. I think the about Ender is one of the best deals I found, considering upgrades and support through the vast number of them around.

>>23453 >Who makes the best 3D printer that can print TPE, ABS, Nylon for under say $300? No one will be able to tell you that with certainty, without testing them by themselves. Also, there can always be outlier. That said, Sovol S06 comes to mind: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMBmAqkB268

Good news, I fixed my printer (Artillery Genius). This video helped: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMau8wlJKH8 - Error:MINTEMP - I had to solder some very small cables. Also checked internally if everything fine, and was stunned how clean it was. So, it was just a broken cable due to stress over time. Important to note: The Artillery Printers have full 240V bed heating, not 12-24V. So, it's good the wires are just breaking and then the printer stops. You don't want them to come out and being touched, or making some fire. I hope I can start doing some test prints tonight or tomorrow and go on with my simple-body project.

>>23562 That's great. I looked at these and some seem to really like them, some not. (not saying anything totally negative at all) I think this is like most Chinese stuff. You can get great deals or great headaches. It a gamble. I really like the ones I saw had direct drive instead of bowden drives for the filament. Does yours had direct drive? Comes in handy for printing soft rubber TPE type stuff. Do you like the printing on yours? I went and looked at their site they look good.

>>23566 >direct drive Mine has a direct drive. It works for TPE/TPU which I showcased here in the prototype thread. Since I don't care about making it look very good I never really tested the limits of that, though. >quality Mine is from a while ago, but I can say that it is impossible to judge manufacturers by their past. Enders (Creality) seem to have gotten worse for example. Mine also gave me some problems, but it was manageable. Biggest issue where the bad screw quality which might be the US size while I have EU tools. Biggest problem was when I had to drill one of them out, when I wanted to install a full metal heat pipe. Generally I think the printer is quite fine. >direct drive Also, I think I recall a video which stated that it's not necessary to have a direct drive to print TPU. Maybe it's still better though, I don't remember all of these things.

I think I'll just build it from scratch tbh. If you can't build a 3d printer from scratch you won't be able to make a robot anyways.

>>23585 Assuming this is not some trolling or derailment attempt, which it probably is: This is extra work and doesn't make much sense. It will also be more expensive since you'd need to source all your materials. It also would make more sense to build your own printer after having one, so you can print parts for it. It's just another rabbit hole. At least get a set for full self assembly, maybe Anet still sells if for the A8 (which was allegedly a fire hazard some years ago).

>>23569 >Artillery (Genius) Some additional thoughts I had yesterday: - I didn't run into any huge number of people which were trashing that device or the company. When I was angry about something, most other owners were like: Works for me. - They have new version of the same printer, so one could assume all the quirks are weeded out by now. - The prices went up slightly, but still seem to sell. Though there's also not much buzz around them.

>>23603 I wanted to mention that the Sovol printers might be a better alternative to Artillery, but then I found this negative review about the SV07 https://youtu.be/SDruqiq71OU though the same guy (3D printing professor) had a good opinion about the SV06 https://youtu.be/6gcWlQ8SgCM - That said he had a positive review about the MINGDA Magician X2 https://youtu.be/zdxxuAaN54Q and this one is also rather cheap.

>>23569 >Mine has a direct drive Thanks >Mine is from a while ago, but I can say that it is impossible to judge manufacturers by their past Yeah. You're right. Though if everything they made in the past was weak it's not likely they will have anything good now. >it's not necessary to have a direct drive to print TPU Though I don't know personally I read that it can be a problem. Pushing something inside a long tube instead of pulling is obviously not the best. It depends on how bendy your TPU is. Since we are wanting very soft TPU, it could be a problem. I read, somewhere, that they have special slick bowden tubes (teflon coated???), that work better. I expect by the time you buy the tube you could have had a direct drive. Of course you could print a mold then cast TPU into it.

>>23657 > I read that it can be a problem. Commonly it's said that direct drives are better for it. But it seems to work with Bowden as well, yes it might be some specific part, I don't remember. I'm sure there's a YouTube video about it. >by the time you buy the tube you could have had a direct drive. Bowden style also seems to have some advantages, the printhead is smaller and it can move faster. Idk. They're also normally a bit cheaper. >Of course you could print a mold then cast TPU into it. Not sure, TPU isn't silicone rubber and the idea is to use it in case where you can't use a mold. For example for printing a complex mesh. I don't think this could be molded. People are printing shoes out of TPU, which I thought to show some useful ideas for making soft bodies.

>>23659 >TPU isn't silicone rubber and the idea is to use it in case where you can't use a mold. For example for printing a complex mesh. I don't think this could be molded I should have been more specific. You can mold it but you have to heat it up and melt it at over 260C. I think it could be done in a regular oven. (scratch that, it's 680F so normal oven won't do.) IF you had a high enough oven (kiln) like for ceramics you pack the stuff in a heat resistant mold then let it flow into the mold as it melted. Might need to pull it out and put a vacuum on it. So no, it's not easy.

I got the anet 3d printer and everything works but the 3d printing. Which is really frustrating cause their site has been down since I checked and I don't want to have to return this one too (the last one had a broken screen). It just needs the right kind of software for it to work I think but I'm not sure if the anet a8 software is the same as the a8 v2 software. I think I might contact the seller cause I think there was some stuff missing on that sd card either way.

>>23447 Knots are going to play a role in smol garage shop manufacturing operations, particularly for devising rigs & jigs.

>>23668 I'm sorry but this company is (or was?) one with the worst reputation around quality control. I highly doubt that you'll need special software to run you printer, just use Prusa Slicer or Cura.

>>23668 >I got the anet 3d printer and everything works but the 3d printing. That me laugh and laugh. I hope you meant that in a humerus manner. If so it was good. If not...oops.

>>23714 I meant that its extruder and bed moves, it can extrude but when I try to print a 3d file the arm just goes up a bit and it says printing finished. This is really frustrating because i only have 5 days to think on whether to return it or not.

I didn't mean to be mean. I took it as you being sarcastic to the state of the machine. Like someone daying,"oh yeah I love refugees in France, except for the murder, looting and burning", with a straight face. If it won't print I say return it.

>>23715 If you don't get help very fast, you probably should return it. And get something from another company. Hope you don't need to pay for the return.

An idea for accurate 3D prints. You can get low melting point alloys. Some will melt in hot water or in your hand. Some much higher and about the same temperature you 3D print plastic. If you get one that is a Eutectic alloy then it will solidify very fast and all at once. So instead of holding heat like plastics and mushing somewhat it would solidify to a hard metal relatively fast. Non-Eutectic alloys are more like a plastic and the metals in it solidify at different temperatures. So let's say you make a machine that crams this alloy in it, melts it then makes filament. Running it in your printer if you watch the temps then as soon as it is laid down it solidifies to a strong substance and is not likely to move about or shrink. Once you have this "positive" you can make cast of it, heat it with low temperature and all the metal will run out of the mold. My understanding is you can reuse these indefinitely. Great for casting TPE or silicon. Make your mold from a strong concrete with wires post-tensioning the mold and you might could pressure cast fiberglass. Could be a way to do smaller level mass production. Could come in handy for the skeleton. I look at 3D printers all the time to see what;s good, bad, whatever. I see this, ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro and PLA Plus Filament 2 Pcs Black Brand: ELEGOO Bundle Price: $234.96 That is a good deal. It has great reviews. It's much like a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro at over a hundred dollars more. It has a direct drive feed which I consider essential. No it might not "have" to be direct drive but if you use TPE then the odds of trouble with a bowden drive go up quickly. It also has Auto mesh bed leveling, which I would not buy any printer without it. I don't want spend hours sliding paper or feeler gauges under the bed to level it. Of course if you look at the reviews most are super pleased but like all Chinese products some people get duds. They appear, from amazon reviews, to be willing to make good if there are problems. And as soon as I see the 3 they come out with 4. It's even better with at least double printing speed and super hot end that will print nylon. Sigh...These printers are really getting better and better at a fast rate.

I've been looking at filaments and there's amazing stuff I had no idea existed(Maybe all of you know all about this but I didn't). There's two types of plastics ULTEM-PEI and PEEK that could be really good for bones. Here's a article on them. https://www.3dsourced.com/3d-printers/peek-ultem-3d-printer/ I suspect the 3D printer I commented on above with a change to the hot section could print these. Let's say it cost you $100 USD to upgrade the hot end. These are both expensive filaments but really strong stuff. I see where they are reinforcing PEI with fiberglass and getting aluminium strength or better. Airlines are changing their food carts out to PEI based carts and the savings in weight is over a thousand pounds. They are making pump motor casings and all sorts of stuff with this. Now there are PEI filaments I see that are carbon fiber reinforced so that would likely be even stronger. The point is, there's you skeleton. I see on ebay carbon fiber PIE "... 3DXTech CarbonX Black PEI +CF ULTEM 1010 Filament .5kg 1.75mm Carbon Fiber 500g Price: US $74.99..." This stuff is expensive but the versatility of being able to 3D print it compared to all the extra work for molds, crucibles other equipment and pouring aluminium, the cost is far less.

Had an idea for printing. Print a large "brim", explanation in link, and then as it prints put strong thin flat neodymium magnets on the brim to keep the print from shifting. I searched for this. Found some links on laser printers and putting magnets into prints but not for holding them down. The brim would have to be big or the magnets might catch the print head. https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-raft-brim-and-skirt-all-you-need-to-know/

>ULTEM-PEI and PEEK I knew about those for years, but they require more expensive printers. There's a YouTube channel covering them. It's not being used by hobbyists so far. Most likely cases around the printer would be necessary, same for air filters. Also very high temps. I don't remember the details. Polycarbonate (PC), especially one with other materials mixed into it (a blend), is more realistic. Sure if we would need something special out of aluminium then some print with this might be cheaper or better, so it's good to have these things in the back pocket. That said, it's better trying to avoid the need in the first place. Use standard parts from hardware stores and 3D prints for less strong elements. >>23940 >put strong thin flat neodymium magnets on the brim to keep the print from shifting But why?

>>23945 >But why Printing PEI and PEEK is a nightmare. These plastics love to curl, warp, and either dosen't want to stick or fuses into the bed. You need precise temperature control and no air movement in a dryed enclosure. Also, you need to dry it before use. Using magnets to prevent the print from curling up on the bed is a good idea. Use the strongest you can too. I'm sticking with PLA+ and TPU. I value dimensional accuracy too much to use other materials.

>>23931 >>23939 Thanks Grommet! I hope we can all learn to do great prints with this stuff soon. >>23940 Nice idea Anon. >>23946 I think I'm with you on this Kiwi. And honestly, this is very definitely one of those 'we can incrementally improve things towards our ultimate goals' type categories. By the time we have Model A robowaifus walking/talking around, then printing remarkably strong components rather inexpensively should already be a solved problem. Cheers.

>>23945 >That said, it's better trying to avoid the need in the first place. Use standard parts from hardware stores and 3D prints for less strong elements. This. I'm constantly on the lookout for new or clever ideas for using readily-available parts for things. For example, I've shown rather conclusively we can manage better than 1'000:1 compression strengths for super-lightweight struts, which in a manufacturing context would cost just pennies to produce from massively-available resources. (cf. >>21221, >>21223) >tl;dr The idea of using literal drinking straws as structural members that was floated here years ago actually works. >=== -minor edit

I watched a video circa a year ago about an extruder optimized for TPU. Nearly forgot about it, but got it recommended again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LdFmPYItb0

>>23939 > I suspect the 3D printer I commented on above with a change to the hot section could print these. On further looking about I think criticism of these for "simple" usage is more than warranted. They're difficult. You have to enclose the printer and heat the space to get consistency out of printing these. However I do think it can be done with a lot of messing around. The key and what I'm focusing on is that these high end printers cost a fortune and starting with a decent, but cheaper one, you could gain experience and then piece together the parts to do the high end stuff. You might could make a simple glass enclosure and use cheap hair dryer heaters on a variable switch control. May be a little hokey but it cost far less than putting out a couple grand for the high end printers. I linked a video here that's a really good overview of the high end stuff. These guys sell high end printers and filament to job shop type people where they do a lot of just in time stuff for business. You can get close to aluminium strength for less cost "if" you figure in making molds and all that to pour the aluminium. There are what appear to be very useful medium cost and medium strength stuff you can use now and more seems to be coming all the time. Especially where they are taking the lower temp stuff and loading it up with carbon fiber. That may be the sweet spot, right now, for strength vs. cost vs. rapid prototyping. Using all the pre-built parts you can, like mentioned, is obviously much easier, and cheaper. Anyways this video at this link is well worth watching for an overview of not only the high end stuff but a lot of intermediate and they touch on the cheap stuff. They give direct tips on the cost, what it takes to print these and what materials people are requesting the job shops to use.(they do cover the idea that buying the expensive high end printers is cheaper "IF" you are going to make money with these as a job shop and they are likely correct) >>23985

>>23945 >put strong thin flat neodymium magnets on the brim to keep the print from shifting But why? The bottom curls up and comes loose from the plate. If you hold the brim printed first, down, then it will not come loose.

>>23983 That's a great video. Something I noticed. He is using a photo-polymer resin to print parts for this. It says "peek like". So I look this up and it's 200 euros for 500 grams which is not far off PEEK filament prices. Supposedly this stuff is near PEEK strength. I suspect you could use ultraviolet light to cure. So you could print a clear shell of whatever part, pour this stuff in and then harden it by placing it in the Sun for a few days. Maybe you could print the shell in PLA plastic that rinses away in water. Might be a way to get strong parts without buying $1,000-$2,000(or higher) dollar printers and all the mess to print stuff. Another advantage is you could cut the cost of the resin by adding stuff like silica fume that would not necessarily make it weaker but would fill space. Carbon fiber addition??? Maybe. That guy has a lot of great videos. A tip on downloading videos. Go to this site, https://yt5s.com/ enter the youtube video address and it downloads super fast. Most of the time. Another tip is it gives the name of the channel of the video you are downloading. So in the case above it's Proper Printing you can enter this in the address link above and it will give, some, of his videos. Not all but a few. Very fast and very handy.

>>23983 >>23997 Thanks Anons. Wow, that stuff is expensive! I wonder how quickly the price drops in 'bulk' (say 5gal buckets of the stuff)?

Robot 3D Prints a 500-Pound Replacement Part | The Cool Parts Show #50 Robot 3D Printing Makes Giant Industrial Mixer Blade | The Cool Parts Show Bonus https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NttgvhZOak8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbdzTwMhGg8 and if that's not impressive here's a whole damn racket 3D printed. All of it including the engines The Genius of 3D Printed Rockets This massive rocket took them two years to build the software and hardware to get this to work. They use lasers and electric arcs continuously monitored to get the perfect weld. There's warping in all of these but they configured the software to weld the warps such that when it warps it warps into the exact shape they want. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kz165f1g8-E Of course all of these are only so sightly, loosely related to robowaifus but...there are people right now hooking up commodity wire welders to be used as 3D printers. It's only a matter of time before they get the software to work and then skeletons could be 3D printed. It's so impressive what people are doing with this.

>>24003 >I wonder how quickly the price drops in 'bulk' I'm willing to bet there's some sort of plastic industrial supply house that has the same stuff for $5 a pound or something like that. They get it from somewhere.You know they don't make it from scratch. Finding out what it is...might be the hard part but just using their specs could help. Off the top of my head you could mix epoxy with some small fibers and probably get something every bit if not stronger than this stuff and you can get top quality epoxy for $100 a gallon. (I don't like epoxy all that much though I fully acknowledge it's usefulness.)

>>24022 Yeah I think you're probably correct on both counts Anon, thanks.

I realize that I caught myself in a trap. So 3D printers are fantastic. So I get caught in trap of seeing them as the tool to make things, BUT, the trap is you see them as the method of making THE objects instead of them being the way to prototype objects. I realized this when I saw the cost of that plastic and realized it's foolish to pay that. I'm now thinking more about using water soluble material to make an object, make a mold of that and then use cheaper, more advanced materials for the actual part. You can also make molds printed 3D then cast things in them. TPU could come in handy for that. Using the actual filament for the finished part in many cases is a bust for parts that need to be strong. Cost and strength wise. A good example of something that could done cheap is to use Titebond 2 or 3 and add in some sort of reinforcement. If you look at foamies sites, https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-review-vespa-foamie-trailer-1032b/ https://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=38&sid=6d47eb7fe991a65a2cc304d082262eeb these guys are using titebond glue and canvas drop cloth to make a very strong poor man's fiberglass. Titebond 3(more waterproof) is like $30 a gallon. So get some reinforcement to pack in the mold and vacuum in titebond and you have a reinforced plastic that can be very strong for a very low price compared to most things. Ever heard of Duroplast like they used for cars in the USSR? Same sort of thing.

>>24058 I meant to add this link below. I use these principles that Musk stated and I find that you if you go over, over and over them, you start making far better decisions. They add clarity to your thinking. >>24047

>>24058 Good points Anon, thanks.

>>24058 >THE objects instead of them being the way to prototype objects. I realized this when I saw the cost of that plastic But it isn't expensive and can even be recycled if you have a lot of it (50-100kg wast or more). Also, whatever one makes by hand can't be shared as a CAD model.

>>24064 >whatever one makes by hand can't be shared as a CAD model You share the mold not the part. A pound of that material for 200 euro is way expensive for me. Especially when I can get a gallon of epoxy for $100 of good quality stuff. So something like 8 lbs. epoxy. How much you want to bet that guy got that stuff for free. At the cost of that stuff I could fill the whole mold with carbon fiber and epoxy and have 7/8 a gallon of epoxy left.

>>24085 >200 euro for 500 grams of filament What are you on about mate? Can get decent PLA for ~20 euro im Deutschland. Good TPU is more but, not much more. I do go for mixed manufacturing, Rods and other easily attainable parts that others can get are useful for leveraging different properties. I personally employ cheap wood, rubber bands, and string.

>>24085 The price for the cheapest filament is 12-14 Euros. You must have misunderstood something. Just because expensive plastics exists, doesn't mean having a printer makes no sense.

>>24094 >What are you on about mate? Can get decent PLA for ~20 euro If what I said was too off, then you should realize I wasn't talking about PLA. I was talking about the stuff in this thread in the picture. >>23997 >Just because expensive plastics exists, doesn't mean having a printer makes no sense. I didn't say that nor did I even imply it. Please show me where I said 3D printers make no sense. PLA is not going to work as a skeleton support. My point was you could use the 3D printer to make molds and use far less expensive materials that are stronger for parts. I'm not saying anything bad about 3D printers. Far from it. I am saying the filaments cost too much for super strong filaments. Using the strong benefits of 3D printers, making complicated shapes, while not using the weaker filaments for final parts. Nothing else. >Rods and other easily attainable parts that others can get are useful for leveraging different properties. I personally employ cheap wood, rubber bands, and string. I also said nothing bad about that. Have any of you looked at what I said? What you're complaining about me saying, does not exist.

To add further words, but so there's no mistake. The stuff in picture above I think was 250 grams-200 euros and a quick search for another comparable filament in strength, Intamsys PEEK-CF 1.75mm Filament 368.00 I say that's too much.

>>24101 >I say that's too much. I do too.

>>24100 >I wasn't talking about PLA. I was talking about the stuff in this thread in the picture. Yeah I got it a bit wrong in my responses. Some posting read like you claim printing won't work out for making production parts: >BUT, the trap is you see them as the method of making THE objects instead of them being the way to prototype objects. ... thinking more about using water soluble material to make an object, make a mold of that and then use cheaper, more advanced materials for the actual part. >>24101 >Intamsys PEEK-CF 1.75mm Filament 368.00 Sure, but this is based on you picking this kind of filament first, then you kinda generalized it about printing being expensive, or at least for usable production parts. So yeah, if you want to print all bones out of that, then it would be to expensive. Using some wood or metal rods and PETG or PC(/blend), any more common filament, then printing parts for production works. If you want to go the other route, fine. But I won't let it become the impression that this is now the only reasonable way. It's very bad actually, imo. Since you would need to share the molds physically, if I understood it correctly. Which is also expensive, more risky, less malleable, simply a huge jump backwards.

I've returned 2 3d printers, now i have an ender 3 and it doesn't print because the z axis motor keeps moving the thing down until it starts choking. Its all so tiresome. Why can't 3d printers just work. I don't have such low expectations for my 2d printer.

>>24127 The first two ones were from Anet? If you had looked into it first, people would've warned you. Creality (Ender) also has a bad reputation for recent printers. That said, many printers need some tinkering. This is a hobby for people who are open to fix their tools, if you want to avoid that then you have to pay even more.

>>24127 > Its all so tiresome. Why can't 3d printers just work. It really sucks. Made ion China. Some stuff is great and works fantastic, with super value, but only some of the time it seems. They have a bit of randomness.

>>24115 >>Intamsys PEEK-CF 1.75mm Filament 368.00 Sure, but this is based on you picking this kind of filament first Notice I said I trapped myself into one mode of thought. Using the Musk principles I rethought it. >if you want to print all bones out of that, then it would be to expensive. I was thinking strength but lost the mental thread of cost, utility. A mistake. >Using some wood or metal rods and PETG or PC(/blend), any more common filament, then printing parts for production works. YES. You could use regular wood (dowels, whatever) for most of the volume and mix wood flour(cheap) and glue for the rest(odd shapes) into a mold and have a decent bone. >Since you would need to share the molds physically, if I understood it correctly. You missed this part. You print the molds. The molds themselves can be PVA and be washed out or you could print PLA molds with PVA washable inserts or you could print molds and pour melted sugar in them to make inserts that would then be washed out for inner cavities. Pour melted sugar, harden, release the sugar from the mold then spray with light coat of lacquer. Super cheap dissoluble in water, insert(for cavities).Or PVA to wash out but sugar is really cheap. The MAIN point is you can get VERY strong liquid polymer and add various fibers for less than even cheap PLA filament per pound and then pour it into molds you 3D print. So now you can make one or many(parts), you've lowered cost, have a strong part and reuse the molds. A simple example. Duroplast was used in the USSR to make cars(I'm not going into what kind of glue, pressing, etc. just know you can get comparable glues at low cost). It was cotton waste pressed together with a formaldehyde type glue. We have new glues like titebond type II and III. III being more waterproof. $30USD a gallon. This stuff works fine with drop cloths to make "poor man's fiberglass" but I bet you could use old jeans. We have things like thrift stores and salvation army stores with old jeans, cloths, etc. (If you wish I can talk a good bit about different type glues. Some completely waterproof and low cost in some cases)Buy this stuff(jeans, old cotton clothes) saturate it with titebond and cram into molds. A slight vacuum would be really handy but probably not necessary. I'm not saying this is the best stuff in the world, buy carbon fiber if you want that. I am saying it's dirt cheap and one gallon and $25 dollars worth of old jeans and you are set. Use a little PLA to make molds. You're maybe $50 for the whole set up. For vacuum you can use what I think it was you that mentioned. Peristaltic pump and a hand drill. 3D print the pump and insert a cheap piece of rubber hose. Spin and vacuum on the cheap. Some other ideas. Print thin shelled bones to check for fit(fast, printing only the shell so any changes can come quick). Then you could either make plaster or cement molds of them OR print the negative(mold). The mold for the same bone, make a square and set the formally printed bone shape in it and remove all in the block. Print the block as a shell(the shell has a split for part removal). Pour in cement or plaster. Now you have a mold to press in the glue fiber mix. I've read a good bit about metal casting. That's where all this thinking comes from but use plastic and fiber for the metal. Look at this link to download,(the book is too big to upload), where there's a book on metal casting. This is a classic book, well regarded. Except forget the metal and look at the sand casting and core making parts to get an idea of what I'm saying. And forget the sand too and think thin plastic molds. 3D printed cavity inserts. Some that are made of PVA or sugar and can be dissolved for inner passages. http://libgen.rs/search.php?req=C%20%20W%20Ammen&column[]=author

So I was thinking about the skin. I think the skin can be 3d printed as well with something called TPE filament. It'd go on top of the exoskeleton and since its 3d printed the dimensions could be exact.

>>24149 Thanks for the mold information Anon. For those of us intending on doing production (like myself), these concepts will undoubtably play an important role -- particularly during the formative years of the companies. >>24151 >So I was thinking about the skin. Our new R&D general is the place to think about skin in general (apart from printing topics). >"...the topic of skin (without sensors)" (>>24152) Good luck Anon! :^)

This whole experience with the 3d printer has quiet literately felt like rocket science.I'm not supposed to know what stuff they used to make the drivers or whatever else work because I'm not the one who made them. I'm also not supposed to have to fix whats supposed to be a new product. Its too late to return this one now though. There are no 3d printer repairmen nearby I'd also have to take it apart and carry it for kilometers away to go get it fixed and then take it apart and put it back together again. I tried 4chan but they're not helpful at all. Can somebody atleast give me a hint as to whats wrong with this piece of junk? I'd pay money to see plastic come out of the extruder even. Its an ender 3.

>>24336 Well, at least it started moving. I don't understand why 4chan or other sites can't help. Did they at least point you into a direction? I also wonder why your're printing in the corner. You need to go through a checklist if the nozzle is close enough to the bed or if you're nozzle is clogged. Look for a checklist based on your problem e.g. "no filament comes out". >I'd also have to take it apart and carry it for kilometers away to go get it fixed and then take it apart and put it back together again. Yeah, don't do that.

>>24336 Why is your printhead over these clamps? What and why are they there? Did you watch or read any basic tutorial on how to print and use a slicer?

>>24339 The printhead is over piece of metal i bought at the screw store with a hole that happens to fit perfectly. The glue came off though now im using some fishing line to hold it in place. Might use both the glue and the fishing line or something. There's got to be something holding the nozzle in place. Maybe there used to be a piece of plastic there before or something but stuff just kind of disappears. I also bought some screws ofc that also dissapeared. I solved it moved too far off by just pushing it to the leftmost side and tightening the nut I in the back I guess. >>24337 No help whatsoever. I did push some plastic out of the nozzle with one of the torques I guess.

>>24336 I don't own one of these but I hear people talking about printing the built in model. The boat or other models. I think everything is all set up for these files and they are preloaded. Poke around the display and see if you can come up with a test print. Ender 3 3d printer test print and setup https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pRNxzESSOk There's got to be a gazillion videos and pages and pages of instruction on this. Ender 3 is, I think, one the original models that they made commercial from the open source model. https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/3d-print-an-stl-file https://howchoo.com/3dprinting/easiest-guide-to-leveling-and-test-printing There'several hundred if not thousands of these pages. Search for "set up ender 3", "troubleshoot ender 3", "test ender 3", you get the idea. One more, https://www.nikkoindustries.com/blogs/news/5-most-common-problems-with-the-creality-ender-3-troubleshooting-guide

One more there's 6 books on 3D printers here, http://libgen.rs/search.php?req=3d+print&open=0&res=25&view=simple&phrase=1&column=def "Maintaining and Troubleshooting Your 3D Printer" http://libgen.rs/book/index.php?md5=68475FC86BEB88CD59F275BE50DAF7EA

>>24344 WTF?! That's not how a printhead is supposed to work. It's not supposed to fall apart. What did these guys on 4chan say? Look at videos or pictures about the printhead for the Ender, how it is supposed to be. You might need some new parts. But first you need to understand whats broken and missing. Is this an Ender 3 from Creality or from some guy on Ebay?

I watched the video and it appears to me the first set up is incorrect. It thinks it's in the center but it's on the side. You need to go through whatever basic set up procedures there are for it. Did you level it? Is it self leveling? It won't print right if not level.

>>24347 I think I put it backwards but I lost the rubber thing might as well roll with this...

I don't know how exactly, but this might become a useful concept long-term - String Art Machine: https://youtu.be/M1gXuKFspgY I need something that can weave horizontal and vertical strings together, while also changing the shape of the output in both directions. Ideally the crossing points might get strongly connected or have a little rolling element in there to avoid abrasive friction.

>>24470 That video is really impressive. It goes to show what you can do with micro-controllers, a few motors and actuators.(really impressive thanks for finding this) >I need something that can weave horizontal and vertical strings together, while also changing the shape of the output in both directions. Now people made fun of me when I suggested using the basic motions of crochet or knitting to make robowaifu skin but I think this could be done and in some ways the video shows a "sort" of path to this kind of thing. It at least shows that you can automate thread patterns like this. You would have the machine hanging from the ceiling and the work hanging as it's made from the ceiling instead of being built from bottom up so the lower parts would just hang and not tangle the top as it's being knitted. Basic crochet and knit moves are very simple. You insert a hooked needle into a loop, twist the loop around the thread and then pull back. We're talking one or two needles that can move x-y, a thread placement actuator and a rotation servo for the needles. You could possibly weave one thread of skin color and one thread of some sort of flexible thread. To change volume you add another loop to the "splice" of the knitted skin suit. So you slice the body like normal 3D slicing of levels to print, crochet all the slices as a length to create volume and tie the levels together as you go. Like a large continuous spiral with variable spiral lengths depending on the volume at that skin suit position. Of course it's much easier to just sew the sides as everyone sensibly mentioned. For some reason I can't articulate these seams annoy me. Hence my thinking up complicated ways to avoid them. Sometimes certain looks of things you like or don't like for reasons that...just are. I don't know much about crochet but looking at Basic crochet vs knit videos it appears to me crochet is the way to go. kitting looks a little better...maybe, but crochet they say does not unravel easy. That means you get a nick or two in the skin the whole thing would not unravel. Of course as people here mentioned it's likely you will have some sort of silicon or other elastomer backing so it may not matter which, knitting or crochet. knitting seems to require more parts so... Now you can also see how to make "orifices" with crochet. Look at the sweater picture I linked. See how the arms are crocheted as the sweater is built? Imagine pulling the arms into the sweater and then imagine orifices made the same way as arms in a sweater. The skin would be pulled into an orifice and clamped down. Whatever was in the orifice, let's say eye's, could be pushed up against the opening and held in place. It would look just like normal, while still allowing you to replace the skin occasionally. For underhangs like arm pits or under knees you could make a bump. The back of the bump you could glue Velcro and then it would stay tight to the underhang. And yes I know this not the skin thread but the idea is about making a 3D machine to print the skin not the skin itself.

>>24470 I might add if you could get a crochet machine working you wouldn't need all those nails in the video. it would just crochet the whole thing.

Tentatively I think this new 3D printer Sovol SV07 Klipper Direct Drive Extruder 3D Printer Max Print Speed 500mm/s Meanwell Power Supply US $269.00 is a better buy than the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro $299 The Elegoo doesn't have wi-fi built in and there is comment that, "...Elegoo uses MKS electronics and the MKS Klipper hardware is riddled with issues. The MKS Pi and MKS SKIPR and in turn the N4 board which is a modified version of the SKIPR use the RK3328 mcu which is barely adequate to run Klipper at all and has frequent mcu disconnect issues. If you want more examples of how bad this hardware is look at the Libre Renegade it uses the same chip and has the same issues..." Sovol SV07 Klipper runs an extra board-display controller that uses THE open source code for Klipper. The board's made for it. On the other hand Sovol has some cheaper parts in places. If the reviews stay reasonbly good for the Sovol SV07 Klipper I think it would be better as changing a few parts would likely be cheaper and easier than dealing with software issues. Even if the software issues on that hardware turn out to be no problem the Elegoo has no wi-fi and you must buy a dongle and that's another few bucks and possibly software issues to get the dongle to work.

>>24470 Pretty remarkable Anon. >>24481 Very interesting Grommet. >>24500 Thanks for the information Anon, that helps.

>>24470 Excelent find, with the ideas from >>24481 the basis for a cloth scaffold could be realized. Would be difficult and time intensive but, has some promise. Would still recommend impregnating the result with silicone.

Got it working.What a mission that was. I'm impressed by it's precision and speed of the print. I wouldn't want to have to assemble it again though.

>>24596 Congratulations Pete. Good job getting your new printer working, looking forward to seeing you prints! Cheers. :^)

FDM printing of resin works, which might also be interesting for printing silicone rubber. The goal is continuous fiber printing, which will create very strong parts: https://youtu.be/jvjIXA4k-XU

>>24596 Use a nail clipper for the love of god don't bite your nails so close to the quick what is wrong with you? Nail clippers young man, use them.

>>24659 I did use nail clippers...

Though crude, explicit, and vulgar, this thread has some interesting things that may benefit 3D printed waifus. https://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=69416

3d printing with an ender 3 is painful. I read good things about the Kobra 3d printer. 500 mm/s much faster.

>>25835 Don't focus on speed so much, that said if you really print a lot, then a second printer can be a good idea. Or you just wait and do something else.

Revolutionary 3D printer! A reverse lathe! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58AD7zPnxcU

>>26053 >A reverse lathe! That is truly awesome in its potential to revolutionize so many industries. The exponential rate of technological development just got a logarithmic kick in its butt. With laser metal deposition you could make rocket engine nozzles for a fraction of today's costs. Elon Musk will be all over this. As soon as somebody release some decent code I need to build one of these. I'm not sure what I'll use it for yet, but I'll think of something. Thanks for the link Anon!

>>94 Just bought afdm 3d printer. I'll keep you guys updated when I finish it and start printing. My goal is to have it up and running within 4 weeks and print my first prototype robot waifu parts within 6 weeks from now.

>>26125 Great, good to hear. Where will you get the prototype parts from? Are modelling them or using existing parts?

>>26125 Awesome Anon! Welcome to the wide world of 3D printing. Study hard and robowaifus will be your reward!! Cheers. :^)

New Under 3 V3 SE freshly built and tested with slightly moist TPU. Excellent quality, had to destroy the print to get it off the bed. Just put on a PEI plate. Will update how that goes.

>>26208 That looks excellent, Kiwi. Thanks for the update! :^)

>>26208 Perfect prints that come off perfectly with a PEI plate on the bed.

>>26208 >TPU That looks really good. Might I bother you and ask if you know what shore the TPU is? It's the firmness of the plastic or squish per pound force, sorta. And how flexible did it come out? I wish someone sold a shore set on a key ring. Like different shores imprinted with what is what on a key ring. Thye have cheap shore meters, basically a point with a spring on it and a gauge. I may have to get one and go around poking on all the squeezable plastic I can find.

>>26210 Mind sharing which PEI plate you chose? BTW congrats on your new printer, Anon. Cheers. >=== -sp edit

>>26246 Almost all TPU filament has a shore hardness of 95A. I believe you mean to imply the use of a durometer. My print is very flexible, that can be adjusted by varying thickness and density. My sparse infill and 2mm thickness leads to a print which effortlessly can be rolled into a ball in my fist. Right now, the major hurdle is connecting the meshes to her forming rings. They stretch around screws when handled roughly. Staples get wrecked and stabbed me when it put a design through a cuddle test. >>26251 I use a fugacity PEI plate. Only because it was cheap, it has a crazy strong grip on prints thanks to its deep texture. Which is great, so long as you design around it. You need a deep chamfer or fillet to help pry prints off.

>>26253 >Right now, the major hurdle is connecting the meshes to her forming rings. Kind of what I'm thinking is a two-ring, inner/outer set that snap together and clasp down tightly all the intersecting edges of the mesh flats? >Staples get wrecked and stabbed me when it put a design through a cuddle test. Ouch! :D >I use a fugacity PEI plate. Thanks! Cheers. :^)

>>26253 >Almost all TPU filament has a shore hardness of 95A I had no idea. Learn something new every day. >durometer Yeah that's it.

TPU is the most based filament. Perfect for waifu. https://youtu.be/iWI1CFKiE3M?si=GPPUOmf9uGEhWe8w

>>26283 Excellent information Anon, very useful for beginners to flexible prints. Thanks! :^)

Pinned together prints offer an interesting road to explore. On another note, large flat PETG prints can effectively be accelerated by setting first layer speeds way up. 50mm/s works great. This square 16cm by 16cm by .8mm and printed in 25 minutes. It may be possible to print a whole waifu in one day with panels.

>>26532 Neat! Any chance you could give us another closeup shot of the pinned area for better clarity please?

Excellent resource for 3D printing without a slicer http://fullcontrolgcode.com/ https://youtu.be/Sp2qHM-0Boc?si=QG5mvE66I7E2DGFe

>>26532 >It may be possible to print a whole waifu in one day with panels. That is really excellent. I never thought about that. An idea. I was looking at carbon fiber videos and they were making hollow tubes for air inlets for cars, I think. They would make a split mold, cover the mold on both sides with release plastic. I bet the plastic was just the same stuff in grocery store bags. polyethylene I think. So they have the mold sides covered. They place carbon fiber over it inside the mold tube with slightly longer carbon to overlap. Put the mold together. Through the inside more plastic release making a hollow tube. They tape the ends of the plastic together to seal. One side has a tube to draw epoxy and the other side (top to bottom) a vacuum. They then draw up epoxy with a vacuum.The air pressure automatically presses the inner tube to the sides. When dry they have a strong tube. I don't know if it's strong enough, maybe so, but there are people who are making tiny travel trailers with foam insulation covered with canvas drop cloths that are impregnated with titebond II or III glue. This stuff is really strong. They're called "foamies trailer" or "camper". Search for this and you get all kinds of hits. They have forums where people try all sorts of stuff. Now the point to all this babbling is you make a framework like shown in the comment I linked to and that is your mold. Do the plastic insert with canvas, maybe with a few strips of carbon fiber then suck the titebond II up to impregnate the cloth and/or fiberglass,whatever. Epoxy is expensive and I don't think it's much stronger than titebond II which only cost about $30 USD compared to $100 for good epoxy. Another really super strong glue is "powdered urea formaldehyde plastic resin glue" you can get a gallon for $30 or so. Mix with water so it makes a lot. It's somewhat waterproof but not standing continuous water soak proof. It's generally used for woodworking so I expect it would be great for canvas.

>>26588 Very nice info Anon. I may try looking into this tool over Christmas season. >>26589 Very cool Grommet, thanks for the information. Any chance you could provide the board with some links to the things you mentioned? Cheers Anons. :^)

>>26589 links Teardrops n Tiny Travel https://www.tnttt.com/index.php The main index has lots of stuff on paint, covering etc this is the foamies specific link https://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=55&sid=22d13a3dc48202dd7c433d346c8a8709 Good search term for canvas with titebond glue and other plastic matrixes. "Poor-Man's Fiberglass" Back in the day they would use canvas covering wood for ships impregnated with paint. It's my understanding that done tight this last for decades without the wood rotting. Example, "...The original painted canvas has been on my boat for 55 years. It's kept on the water all year long in a covered slip. I re-coat the paint every 6-8 years..." https://forum.woodenboat.com/forum/building-repair/99214-paint-on-canvas?p=2741933#post2741933 This guy has a ton of composite manufacturing videos. Easy composites. He's using a bunch of professional materials but you could use less costly stuff. The ideas are the same though. Here's just one of his tube videos that I mentioned. "...Making Complex Carbon Fibre Tubes Using a Split-Mould..." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBbOUDDJv4Q Another good one is "Make Forged Carbon Fibre Parts Using Compression Moulding" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25PmqM24HEk I believe you could use the same techniques with vacuum impregnation. Cutting cost. Vacuum Infusion Process - Benefits, Dry Spots, Pinholes and More https://german-advanced-composites.com/vacuum-infusion-process-explained Resin Infusion - Stuart Boatworks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwKhnUCWQtQ In-Depth Guide to Resin Infusion (3m Kevlar Moulding) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMPSIKfkdtQ Glues, titebond II and III fairly waterproof. There's an old school type glue that is super, major strong. They made boats and the WWII Mosquito aircraft was glued together with this type glue. Urea Formaldehyde glue. People are using epoxy now because it's fairly easy to use but it's in no way as good as this stuff. The basic stuff is usually called Cascamite but it goes by a ton of trade names, Semforite, Cascamite, Aerolite. Links for water mix based glue (these guys say waterproof). It's true many people have made boats glued only with this stuff that last. But total waterproof is...hard to judge. It appears that some manufacturers have figured a way to make the water based glues waterproof but some are only partially waterproof. No standing water. Both named Cascamite. I can not judge is the newer water mix glues are really waterproof? Old boat builders say that the old Cascamite WAS waterproof. Is the newer???? http://www.semfor.co.uk/extramite.html Others they call water resistant. Means no continuous water standing. https://www.thenamethatsticks.com/products/cascamite-powdered-resin-one-shot-wood-glue/?page=1&rt=/products/&b=18 generic cascamite https://www.thenamethatsticks.com/products/woodstikk-one-shot-powder-urea-resin-cascamite-extramite-aerolite/ These guys say waterproof but it's still water mix based. Polyvine CAS15KG Cascamite Powdered Resin Wood Glue 1.5kg,White https://www.amazon.com/Cascamite-Powdered-Resin-Wood-1-5kg/dp/B0001OZI8Y?th=1 Now the Resorcinol Urea Formaldehyde glues are 100% waterproof and last forever but more expensive and two part with resin and activator but one of the best glues ever. You have to hunt for this stuff. It's used by the millions of tons on waterproof plywood and they use it to bond the fibers and rubber in tires together. Tough stuff. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resorcinol_glue Aerodux Resorcinol Resin https://www.amazon.com/Aerodux-Resorcinol-Resin-Kit-Quart/dp/B00DP5VQD2 A bit on glues and their properties https://www.classicboat.co.uk/practical-advice/adhesives-for-wooden-boats-structural-glues/ https://www.diy-wood-boat.com/Glue.html

>>26603 Excellent resources, Grommet! Thanks very kindly. Cheers. :^)

How to add a built in electroplating mechanism to a 3D printer. https://youtu.be/W1d36wbx_yg?si=u3gaIjPvEe1JanMU

>>26606 Just wanted to post the same thing. Thanks. This is very big, for example since it will make it harder to prevent people from getting motors for building robowaifus in some future dystopian society or current authoritarian countries.

>>26606 For future reference: This also includes how to 3D print a peristaltic pump which might last longer than regular ones.

>>26606 >>26607 >>26608 Neat! Thanks Anons. :^)

Creality Ender 3 V3 SE: https://youtu.be/EL8ehEYPTCk (~$200) Anicubic Cobra 2: https://youtu.be/jxBL-WM0m-0 (~$210) Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro: https://youtu.be/_86rsbi4lEI (~$210-$220) Artillery Sidewinder X3 Pro: Not many tests in English (~$220) Sovol SV07: https://youtu.be/gH5RQiuaKlw (~$260) BIQU Hurakan: https://youtu.be/GRiMDI2DSf4 ($320) Bambu Lab A1: https://youtu.be/F8sdrPgH9Fk (~$460) Others from BIQU might also be interesting, but reviews are old: https://youtu.be/Hz2GGUbufG8 (€364) The B1 costs only 155€ ($170) which is likely to be better than cheap Ender 3 models. I think it might be interesting as secondary printer. Some people build very small Core-XY printers themselves. This might not be for beginners, but on the other hand it might be more affordable for poor people. Well, if they know somebody with a printer: https://youtu.be/9IVwhJpB8qE https://youtu.be/JbOr9a6ECg8 Again, these might also be interesting as secondary printer or a printfarm.

Overview of Rolohaun Design DIY 3D Printers: https://youtu.be/RG2nWzs_bqE

>>26659 >>26687 Excellent listing Anon, thank you.

Looking at 3D printing stuff and I find a category that I never heard of. Maybe not new to some but it surprised me. 3D printing pens. Wow! These can be PLA or they have some that print ABS. I read the ABS ones can print PETG which I think would be better than ABS but not sure. With one of these pens you could cheaply print these net frameworks like shown here >>26532 These are really cheap to super expensive like most things. Generally it looks like medium quality with enough options to get by for $40 USD or so. Here's one, not pushing this one, just showing one of many for reference. https://www.amazon.com/MYNT3D-Super-3D-Pen-Compatible/dp/B081C946ZJ/ Search term "3D printing pen ABS" It would take a long time to print a framework with one of these but it cost about 6 times less and might be good to screw around with ideas. I'm also looking at Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer, 250mm/s $200-$220 USD and Creality Official Ender 3 V3 KE 500mm/s $284-$300 USD The second doesn't cost much more and prints twice as fast and has wi-fi control which is a really good add on. I like it better. Creality seemed to be falling behind. I thing these new ones are a shot at jumping back up in the cost, performance curve to take away from the newcomers. One advantage of Creality is there's so many of them there's more help and parts available for modding, tuning and repair. Of course the reviews on this are not so good. Like most Chinese 3D printers. It seems you get a good one or...lots of trouble. The ones that are good seem to be really good good and the bad, really bad. 10% seem to be bad. I think if you get a bad one return immediately. It seems they want you to troubleshoot it for them but you pay for a good one not use your time for their quality control. There's also people who say they delay until return period is over then ignore you.

>>27783 Thanks for the info Grommet. I'm going to try a new low-end Ender 3-B (220x220x250), and see if that works for many of our needs here. It's well under US$200. Keeping everything (incl. manufacturing) inexpensive for robowaifus for everyman is an important goal for us here certainly a big one for me personally. Cheers, Anon. :^)

>>27783 >3D pens Nostalgic, started out by tracing anime girls. Looks like those posts didn't carry over for this thread. I also posted about using those for welding prints together. 1. Firmly connect parts with clips, glue, pins, etc... 2. Extrude slow and steady at slightly higher heat. 3. Make little swirls, ensure you have good pressure to push molten plastic into the seem. >Drawing meshes Potentially a decent idea. I wouldn't do it as it would take forever. I recommend the Gender 3 V3 SE. I have one and it works a treat. You do need to ensure it is on a stable perch. I put mine on a chair with a loose leg and when printing at 100mm+ walls shows clear ringing and distortion. On a solid base, it can go fast with good quality. SPEED DEPENDS ON FILAMENT, NOT THE PRINTER PETG maxes out at 100mm if designed for it. (No bridging, minimal hopping) 50mm is safe. PLA varies wildly, most can do 150mm. TPU varies from 15mm to 100mm depending on shore hardness and print design. Other filaments generally don't matter. Just bought high speed PLA+ from Creality. Will update on practical speeds for the Gender 3 V3 SE. Any recommendations for test prints?

>>27796 >Nostalgic, started out by tracing anime girls. Looks like those posts didn't carry over for this thread. I was literally copy-pasting posts (+ their images) from the emergency big filedump of the old board's threads that I had saved out to disk one-by-one (during that final, tense, 2 or 3 hours of 8ch's existence on that fateful day [remember, I hadn't yet written BUMP then, and I yet had no idea how to use cURL/wget properly either lol]); over to here one-by-one, by hand, to get this board kick-started again (back on Julay.world it was, actually), after the GH glowniggers (+ their affiliated good-shabbos golems like Cuckflare) killed 8ch. As you might imagine, it was a very tedious operation and at the time there wasn't even any realistic way I could make an appeal here to the old hands to help out (I was the only RW 'survivor' here at first, I think. cf >>14500) On-and-off I spent 2 or 3 weeks at the effort, as I recall things. IIRC, I finally gave out after about 1'200 posts of this sort (and the 'new' board was finally gaining some traction on it's own by then as well). So, there's still around 5'000 posts that I haven't/never finshed posting by hand here from the original board. This is one of the important reasons I pleaded with anons several times to help me figure out how to deal with captchas here; from within my own custom software ( >the tl;dr : b/c I wanted to finally finish restoring the OG /robowaifu/ in a semi-automated fashion, rather than my original 'Ugg the Caveman' way, which would take me literally months to finish :^). The other main reason is to assist us with moving individual posts around today, sorted into their proper threads (similar to >merge, but for specific posts rather than entire threads). This is a high-priority need for both NoidoDev and myself, who both really care about our board being a good & organized robowaifu research tool. Ironically, one anon finally did help us (in the previous /meta I think), but the whole post didn't go through and he never did (re)post the 2nd (missing) half as requested, AFAICT. And you can't use just half of a piece of code. An alternative code post would have required me to learn a whole new language (Perl) just to understand it, and I simply didn't have the internal reserves to do so. Therefore, those 5'000 missing OG posts may never make it over ATP... and I'm far too entangled in other life rn to even properly consider the effort at all (though I could probably push the filedump somewhere for others to do so). BTW, this 3D Printing thread was likely one of the larger OG threads, and so it never got fully-reinstated here (apart from it's OP; I worked from smol to large to get the most 'thread traction' the quickest within the catalog during that initial effort -- posting all the OPs first, then going back and 'filling them in', smol to large). >tl;dr My apologies to you and to all the other anons whose many OG posts are still missing here today. An_effort_was_made.jpg :P >humorous sidenote: IIRC, Robi actually came onto the board sometime during those first few days to find out W*F I was up to -- he thought I was samefagging like a madman, and didn't realize I was just restoring our OG board by hand. LOL. (I think it wound up impressing him, actually.) :DD I remember those. I seriously considered buying one of those pens years ago after I saw your posts, Anon. (I got my first smol 3D-printer instead.) :^) >"I recommend the Gender 3 V3 SE" Lol. Do you mean 'Ender'? :D >=== -fmt, prose edit

>>27787 >Ender 3-B (220x220x250) I've never heard of that. Really look at the Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer, 250mm/s first. I've seen them as low as $185 and that speed difference is vast. You likely can most of the time print at 150mm/s reviews say. And if you obsessively tune it you could get max speed of 250mm/s. These new faster speeds are really significant. Changes 6 hour prints to 3 hours or less.

>>27804 It's just the regular Ender 3 (but it's the 'B' model ATP) I think.

>>27796 >I also posted about using those for welding prints together... ...SPEED DEPENDS ON FILAMENT, NOT THE PRINTER... Well I missed both of these things. I had never heard of these pens. I could see uses for them and they are so cheap, you know the old adage money or time. That speed is based on filament I've never heard anyone else say this. I could see this for each printer as each one can only heat and push filament at it's limit. https://3dprintbeginner.com/3d-printer-calibration/ This link looks like the mother of all tuning test printing for max printing. It's really impressive. They have separate prints that you tweak the constants as it's printing to see just what will work, where, with your individual printer. Videos and the whole works. 3D printer calibration revolutionised - Step by step to better print quality https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html An idea for stabilizing the machine. From doing holograms they used a car inner tube blown up with a large concretepavement blocks or boxes of sand on the inner tube. If it will work for holograms, which are notoriously sensitive, should be over kill for a 3D printer.

>>27809 >This link looks like the mother of all tuning test printing for max printing. It's really impressive. They have separate prints that you tweak the constants as it's printing to see just what will work, where, with your individual printer. Videos and the whole works. Thanks Anon! These will be very helpful I'm sure.

>>27798 I am thankful for all that you've done. You've nothing to apologize for, you've done an excellent job. New Years reminder to optimize prints. One of the best ways to optimize your printed models is to alter them for vase mode, spiralize outer contour, one continuous wall. Most printing problems happen when the nozzle has to hop or during bridging. Helpful link https://hackaday.com/2022/05/15/3d-printing-hack-leverages-vase-mode-structurally/

>>27809 Here's another really good tuning guide I had saved in a tab in another browser Ellis Print-Tuning-Guide https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ STL files that allow you to test all aspects of the printer and filament you are using. https://all3dp.com/2/best-3d-printer-test-print-3d-models/

>>27835 Thanks! You too Anon, I appreciate all your great inputs here on /robowaifu/ over the years. Cheers. >>27960 Thanks Anon, these are really helpful! Cheers. >=== -minor edit

Guys. ANYCUBIC Photon D2 Resin printers on Amazon are at a 35% discount after Christmas. This is a good time to get siginficantly better printers. I have two Ender 3 printers that I am going to ditch for these because resin has many advantages. You want the higher print resolution for more detailed robo parts, gears and stuff. More importantly though is the speed. Resin printers are able to achieve much higher print speeds than traditional printers. This is important because you can't make progress if you're always waiting for parts to be printed. You can't rapid prototype if your prototypes aren't rapid. Thread is dead. I'm reviving it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4QWYBZL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

>>27992 resin printers are for figurines. Its too delicate for robotics.

>>27992 Friendly reminder you need to keep your printer enclosed as the resin fumes will harm you. As a rule of thumb, if you can smell the resin, it is actively harming you. Don't forget you need a vat of alcohol to clean your prints and a UV curing solution to finish them. >>27994 This is a common misconsception. Cheap low quality resin is indeed fragile. There are many resins with great physical properties that would work well in robotics applications. I'd suggest looking into tough resin. It is worth noting you can mix various resins to customize the desired properties. Mixing tough and flexible resins can result in highly durable parts. https://www.3dsourced.com/3d-printer-materials/abs-like-tough-resins/

I've been wanting to get a resin printer for making base bodies for dolls. I looked into the Photon D2 and it has amazing detail but the build volume is lacking for me. It would still be able to print some 1/3 scale dolls without splitting parts but other printers I've been interested in are the Mono X2 and Mars 4 Max that can do up to 1/2 (~90cm tall) I plan to try mixing Siraya Tech Tenacious or 3DMaterials Superflex with Resione F80 or 3DM SuperElastic into my dolls to make them durable and squeezable. People that make functional parts out of resin recommend Siraya Tech Blu to achieve a similar strength to filament which could be useful for making armatures too, but I'm just gonna stick to BJDs because I only want to make cute dolls and outer shell parts people can use in their robowaifus to make them cute.

>>28002 Great advice Anon, thanks. >>28007 Good luck with your printing goals, Anon!

>>28002 >This level of hardness is what you should expect from strong resins. Compared to ABS’ average Shore hardness of D 100, the highest measurement on the Shore scale, you can see why these resins are known as ABS-like. >In essence, strong resins are a lot tougher than their standard counterparts, but are still not quite as sturdy as standard ABS filaments. Anon stronger than average resin could mean stronger than fragile... I am using pla+ and its not as sturdy as I'd like it to be. Please do tell the results after you buy the printer however. I don't see whats being gained with your gamble however.

The extruder wasn't working so i swapped for a new one and now that one doesn't work right. This is miserable... but if i can't be an ender 3 technician i sure can't be a robowaifu technician...

>>27798 Thanks again for doing all of this.

TPU is the GOAT for battle bots, keep that in mind: https://youtube.com/shorts/wjkdCdX5Xmo - It's also very resistant against abrasion, which might make it even a good material for some gearboxes or at least some elements of it.

Oh, and we've got desktop silicone printers: https://youtu.be/4aMTPGpRYY0 https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/abstract/document/8404935 Unfortunately, price will be 5-6k and for the early prototypes it's rather 13k. >Additive manufacturing has a wide range of applications and addresses many challenges inherited from conventional molding techniques such as human error, multistep fabrication, and manual handling. However, 3D printing soft functional robots with two-part platinum cure silicones requires development to match the material performance of the molded counterparts. In this paper, we present a custom 3D printer and an extrusion mechanism capable of 3D printing soft functional robots. Moreover, we compare the performance differences between our 3D printed soft robots and molded counterparts via lamination casting and lost wax casting. We validate our results by conducting multiple experiments such as blocked force, bend angle, failure pressure, and dimensional quality analyses. We demonstrate that our method enables 3D printing of soft robots that can perform better, or match the performance of molded counterparts while being more reliable and robust with the usage of the same materials. https://www.3dsiliconeprinting.com/ OT (I hope), Radiation cleanup related: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/frobt.2019.00040/full

Mastermind behind the Marlin 3D Printer firmware >>29015

>>27835 >3D PRINTING HACK LEVERAGES VASE MODE STRUCTURALLY Thanks! Follow up: https://youtu.be/-dy-4_L4p9s I also recommend signing up to the channel: https://www.youtube.com/@DreadMakerRoberts Shaving prints instead of sanding: https://youtu.be/TbvFPN7yxt0 3D printing glue: https://youtu.be/zp6ODP8AJmk

Thanks for the nice contribs, NoidoDev. Cheers. :^)

via >>30501 >This article demonstrates a two-step method to 3D print double network hydrogels at room temperature with a low-cost ($300) 3D printer. A first network precursor solution was made 3D printable via extrusion from a nozzle by adding a layered silicate to make it shear-thinning. After printing and UV-curing, objects were soaked in a second network precursor solution and UV-cured again to create interpenetrating networks of poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate) and polyacrylamide. By varying the ratio of polyacrylamide to cross-linker, the trade-off between stiffness and maximum elongation of the gel can be tuned to yield a compression strength and elastic modulus of 61.9 and 0.44 MPa, respectively, values that are greater than those reported for bovine cartilage. The maximum compressive (93.5 MPa) and tensile (1.4 MPa) strengths of the gel are twice that of previous 3D printed gels, and the gel does not deform after it is soaked in water. By 3D printing a synthetic meniscus from an X-ray computed tomography image of an anatomical model, we demonstrate the potential to customize hydrogel implants based on 3D images of a patient’s anatomy. https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acsbiomaterials.7b00094 >=== -patch crosslink

I found what might be an excellent low cost resource. Used or refurbished 3D printers on ebay. I found by accident looking for 3D stuff on ebay. Creality has their own ebay store where they sell refurbished printers. The bad part, Creality's quality control sucks, bad. These are printers someone has already returned and while they say they refurbish them, some appear for the bad reviews to be thrown in the same box and shipped out again. So why bother? The VERY important point is because they are refurbished ebay, allstate insurance has a two year warranty on these things. They also tend to be slightly over or around half the cost. Still you might say that's a bad deal but if look at the reviews on Amazon the negatives tend to be Exactly the same percentage as they are on the returned, refurbished printers. So you're really not taking much if any more risk and you're getting a much better warranty. Another way to think of it that for any part that may be bad you could upgrade to a far better one, make sure everything works and still be out less money than the one bought new from Amazon, while taking no more numerical risk of getting a bad one. Now it would be nice to have the funds to buy a perfect printer but to get a really good one you're talking $500 or higher. Base model ender 3's you can get for around $100 used. I like the ender 3 V3 SE. I like the dual screws on the "Y" and "Z" axis. This gives you a great platform for stability and the direct drive extruder is far better as opposed to boden cables. Boden cables are likely to be a problem if you speed it up to go faster. The cable friction causes problems though at low speeds it's perfectly fine. SE, not the fastest, but I think you could add parts over time and make it better and better. Creality is not the best but they have so many sold there's a pile of hardware and software add-ons. So over time you could make it what you wanted while cheaply getting into it.

>>30917 Interesting idea. Thanks, Grommet! Cheers. :^)

TinyMaker : moe resin printing for every Anon! :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vfQrYthlw0

>>31481 That's very cool. I see resin printers as the sort of final step in making molds for parts. Rough it out with filament printers then when you're satisfied use the better resolution of the resin printers to make master molds. I'm not sure but this might have better resolution, even as limited as it is, than a typical low cost filament printer. You could always print a bunch of small parts and glue or connect them together to make whatever size you need. Slow but, cost, cost, cost is always a problem. The bigger $500 resin printers are nice but if you can't afford one they are of no use.

BTW I see the board is back to the old style, for me anyways. It's so much better.

>>31498 >fine-resolution/mold-making Yes, I agree. For many one-offs, I almost think vacuum conforming plastic sheets may be the best approach -- especially for shell parts. But for the intricacies required for good joint components, sensor actuators, various fastener scenarios, etc., then resin printing can be just the thing (KEEP YOUR RESIN PRINTING AREA WELL-VENTILATED, ANONS!111ONE!!). Once we go beyond boutique-scale garage shops, then mass injection-molding contracts may be the best route. But till then, I suspect that filament-based printing will still rule as king for most of us Anons. --- BTW Grommet, your great inputs across the board here over past month or so have been much-appreciated. Danke, Anon! :^) >=== -minor edit

3D Printing Smart Clothes With a New Liquid Metal-Alginate Ink https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyEGK8NmCiI I've been binge watching 3D metal printers. The numbers are exploding with all sorts of methods being used. The laser powder types are being eclipsed by faster, cheap solutions. Some are electromagnetic metal droplet pumps, tiny droplet piston pumps, high velocity particle jets etc. There're blowing up and the cost is plummeting. Now the new ones are not as good as the standard laser metal particle but faster. I can see these others getting better and better. And a lot of them use standard aluminium or other metal wire. No special powders. If you look at the tech the cost has a long way to fall before you run into rock bottom material cost constraints. Eventually you could easily get 3D metal for the cost of high end plastic filament printers cost now.

I've been every so often looking at 3D plastic filament printers. I've thought of all sorts of schemes to get something low cost but the horrible quality control has always held me off. Like I need more things to work on. I'm covered up already. I don't want to spend hours tinkering with these and until now quality cost a good deal of money. BUT...Bambu Lab A1 Mini is now on sale for $200. I've never heard anyone, no one, say anything much bad about Bambu printers but they were always very pricey. With this I think they will either kill the competition or the competition will have to up their game substantially. In almost every case, well every case I've seen, people say you plug this thing in, it runs calibration that covers deck height, motor vibration. printing head vibration, belt tension, and it does all this automatically. And another thing it has is some sort of exact plastic flow sensor that tells the machine exactly how much plastic is flowing so you get a good even flow by using this feedback mechanism. It also has wifi so you can run it from your personal computer or even your phone. It has a camera so you can remotely monitor printing with even a time lapse function that records your print. WHAT THE HELL CAN THIS THING NOT DO. Can it make bread, cook a stew... Well it doesn't print large sizes. It is limited to a 7" x 7" x 7' area. I have a very strong suspicion that they are using these as loss leader market tools. The bigger ones jump up in price fast but once people get some thing that prints accurately, doesn't constantly break, is as fast. or faster, than most all other high speed printers and cost less, with, mostly flawless printer...consistently, then people will be spoiled. And if they need bigger prints will swallow hard and pony up the bucks to by their more pricey models. I've seen tons of people who say they have years of experience of working with the other brands and they got really good at tuning them but when they got a bambu it was a revelation, as there's not much more to using them than turning them on and getting good prints. Not that they can't mess up but all these feedback loops they have makes for a much higher print completion and quality. For us 7" size is fine. I envision joining parts like Japanese or early European wood joinery. The joints, if done correctly, are extremely close to the strength of a solid piece of wood. Same would apply to plastic. A few examples, https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ef/59/9f/ef599fffcfcc0400c2fbf6f5ed99a5b6.jpg https://avbarn.museum.state.il.us/sites/default/files/images/Collins_Ric_IMG_35.jpg and one I particularly like the scissors joint https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse2.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.iUE1sdMrS_bIC0VWC4z8oQHaEK%26pid%3DApi&f=1&ipt=3c6ebc52e622b48d00bb04f2a77c6dc2c58011bb1b566667d1c354ceae06f317&ipo=images With software making these joints it would be a breeze compared to whittling them from wood. I suspect once you had a system to do so, splitting these into smaller parts that join solidly would be fast and easy.

>>31664 Sold, Grommet. I'll be getting one before long and we'll give 'er a spin. I'll let the board know. BBTW, you should be in sales, Anon. Cheers. :^)

>>31664 >BUT...Bambu Lab A1 Mini is now on sale for $200 Unfortunately, the cheapest I'm seeing rn is US$349. , Grommet. Can you bookmark your pricing link and share it here please? I imagine that's still a good deal, but still $150... Thanks, Anon. Cheers. :^)

>>31683 You have to scroll down and around. What they are doing is the page you land on for the A1-mini has the package deal of the A1-mini + a four color printing optional accessory. They have a retarded number of scripts on the page and you have to scroll around to find the $200 A1-mini alone. Maybe this link will work, https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/a1-mini?variant=41513493627016 The extra colors are not a bad deal at all. In fact a huge bargain. I could see having an additional color being an asset. Especially if you use one color for base and then a water soluble filament to make voids. One use for the multi-color is to to print spots with the .2 mm nozzle. So you print a translucent white but below. or next to, print various shades of red or pink. Like magazine printing from a distance you have a mixing of the colors to make shades. So with a white, black or brown, red or pink, maybe a yellow for Asians you could have realistic skin tones. If you can at all afford it I would recommend the multi-color kit, even if you see no use for it immediately. I read they were difficult to acquire if you don't get them together. But you can get around with just one color. My sweet spot for buying these is $200, maybe $250. Look at this video from a long time 3D printer user on the Bambu A1-mini who has used all sorts of printers. It's good and look at the comments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBQ-QfcY3Qs I've been also looking at resin printers. I don't know how good these are. Brief reviews seem to be ok. The specs though are extraordinary. Here's a list I made. Egloo Saturn 2-4K Saturn 2 $263.00 USD $209.99 USD sale price 10-Inch 8K Mono LCD pixel size 28.5um (.0285mM) (0.001122047 in.) Slicer Software CHITUBOX Technology Layer Thickness 0.01-0.2mm Printing Speed 30-70mm/h Z Axis Accuracy 0.00125mm XY Resolution (7680*4320) 0.0285mm Build Volume 218.88mm (L)*123.12mm (W)*250mm (H); 8.62in(L)*4.85in(W)*9.84in(H) (8.617323 in. x 4.847244 in x 9.84252 in ^3) Egloo Mars 4-9K $250.00 USD $199.99 USD sale price 7-inch 9K mono LCD, 8520x4320 resolution XY precision 18um (.018mm) (0.0007086614 in.) Build volume of 153.36x77.76x175 mm^3 (6.037795 in. x 3.061417 in x 6.889764 in ^3) pixel size 18um (0.0007086614 in.) PRINTING SPEED 30-70 mm/h LAYER THICKNESS 0.01-0.2 mm 0.0003937008-0.0007874016 in. XY RESOLUTION 18 µm (8520x4320) Z-AXIS ACCURACY 0.02 mm (.0007874016 in.) Saturn 4-12K 10-Inch 12K Mono LCD $399.00 USD $299.00 USD sale price 10-inch 12K Mono LCD Print Size 218.88x122.88x220 mm^3 (8.617323 in. x 4.837795 in x 8.661417 in ^3 resolution of 11520x5120 XY resolution 19x24µm (0.0007480315 in. x 0.0009448819 in.) Slicer Software Voxeldance Tango & ChituBox Technology Layer Thickness 0.01-0.2mm (0.0003937008-0.0007874016 in.) Printing Speed MAX 70mm/h Z Axis Accuracy 0.02mm (0.0007874016) XY Resolution (11520*5120) 19*24um (0.0007480315 in. * 0.0009448819 in.) Build Volume 218.88mm(L)*122.88mm(W)*220mm(H) (8.617323 in. x 4.837795 in x 8.661417 in ^3) Layer Thickness 0.01-0.2mm (0.0003937008-0.0007874016 in.) Let's start with the Egloo Saturn 2-4K. The resolution is 28.5um (.0285mM) (0.001122047 in.) This is very close to ten thousandths of an inch which is considered good accuracy for machine work. Even if the resolution is actually twice that due to manufacturer inflation, it's still good enough for us, at $200. The Egloo Mars 4-9K $250.00 USD $199.99 USD sale price 7-inch 9K mono LCD, 8520x4320 resolution XY precision 18um (.018mm) (0.0007086614 in.) is so close to ten thousands of an inch. If it's even close to specs then it's production level. The more pricey ones may be accurate to ten thousands of an inch even if they are lying a little about the resolution, and only $100USD more. So we're talking about production level models. In my mind you use these for molds, or make molds from them. So you rough out designs in the Bamboo and when you have what you want, resin print it for mold production. Linking these together means any size you want can be done with extra time as the deficit. If fact for most needs the Bambu with a .2mm nozzle, and good deal of time, would be good enough. I expect that you could easily get .6 mm resolution with a .2 mm nozzle even with glitches. Maybe better. The new printers are really getting exciting. Cost and capability wise. The possibilities are endless. BTW do you know if we will "ever" be able to upload pictures and files directly here??? And what would it take t do so?

I can't help but wonder if you couldn't make a .1 mm or .05 mm nozzle, maybe even smaller, and slowly, ever so slowly print with the Bambu to get super accurate prints? I see no "physical" reason this could not be done. I don;t know what the ultimate stepper resolution is. I suspect it's high at low speeds as the stepper uses difference wave forms to create partial steps, I think. I know this can be done. Bambu, according to users, appears to be responsive to customer request and supposedly has so far been constantly updating their older printers software. I think it could be a great selling point to have this super resolution mode as an option. Maybe charge more for nozzles.

Cross link from the CNC thread: >>31756

It seems someone is working on a consumer grade SLS printer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQ6DYJtn7Bw It seems interesting, but at it's current backer price of ~$3700 USD I don't know if it's exactly worth it. The machinability of printed parts is what catches my eye the most.

>>31805 >consumer grade SLS printer. That would be wonderful. Thanks for the update, Anon! Cheers.