Today I started modelling a first small simulation area, a small apartment. After my last successful test with getting a tcp server running in unreal, I found a small problem with possible camera sensors. As I can just put other sensor data into a json and send it, video streams are a little bit more difficult. I found a solution to copy textures from the vram. This little helper is called Spout. With this I found all solutions for my needs and I'm going to implement a first robot. Something like a roomba with a fleshlight on top. Picrel is the small apartment I'm modelling atm. I'm not a big artist, I found a room layout in imagesearch and the assets are all free epic giveaways.

>>29720 Neat. Were you planning on using this in ROS?

>>29910 My plan is to use this as a simulation for the control software. After I finish the fleshlight roomba with two motors, a contact sensor and a camera on top I want to share the simulation with you guys. I will probably make a small tutorial in python on how to use the data and send commands to the simulation in Unreal. I think in it's first iteration it will only run in Windows. My goal is to make the simulation available in your local network. This way you can use any computer you want to receive data and send commands.

>>29720 Unreal is such a pain in the ass when it comes to animation blueprints and retargeting skeleton animations. I still can't wrap my head around them. Can do just about anything else but not that.

>>29720 Fuck that bed looks so nice.

Started a new attempt to create some skull, starting with a mandible. Using a human model and then extract a pattern from it, which I can work with. Still early, but I wanted to post something, since it isn't much going on.

>>30464 Why are there missing teeth?

>>30465 Idk, might be from an old women. I just try to use it as a model to get something vaguely similar, of course with teeth. It's about the bone in this case. The teeth are useful for orientation. I already hit a roadblock with this, since the way I wanted it work doesn't work for now. I need to slice the stl file into more pieces and running into errors while trying that. >Knee I also started to sketch out a knee. Again, still very early. But I'm on it.

>>30485 New flavor, closer to some artificial knee. Not sure where to go with this exactly, so far. But I'd like to have a kneecap that moves like a human one and also a quite similar look and feel of the knee. It doesn't need to be the same internally. I also downloaded some foot bone model. I think this isn't only important for realism, but will also help with walking. I plan to put some sensors between the bones, so if these move related to each other this will be one way to feel the surface of the ground. Though, I'm not sure yet since these might not move enough. Maybe it would be easier in this case to make a more massive TPU part, where there are normally different bones.

>>30493 There has been efforts to make synthetic joints out of a special hydrogel https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acsbiomaterials.7b00094

>>30501 Okay, thanks, I put it in here into 3D printing: >>30506

>>30493 Not sure if I an pull it off, but I guess it should be connected with a pole that can rotate and move with it, but only within a certain range. On the front there would of course be a string with the kneecap.

not a designer / engineer / techhead, but I have some thoughts/questions for those who are 1) what are you using for reference/inspiration? Personally, just got back from disney and what they do with their robotics/animatronics is pretty decent. 2) from a concept-to-product design standpoint, what are considered midpoints in overall design? The 'AI' aspect of a nandroid/maidbot seems to my ignorant mind the first 'easy' step. A midpoint towards a fully humanoid housed robot might be a form of 'projection' robot that has core tech components in a rugged casing and can basically follow/roll along after you to a greater or lesser degree but then also allows for an image 'projector' to generate an image on a flat surface that you can interact with to some degree (AR/VR component as tech evolves would come next) 3) best structure/musculature material? This gets into areas that are probably going through a massive ramp-up in terms of development from a layperson/off-the-shelf availability. Basic research shows carbon fiber nylon or polycarbonate structural parts. what about wet-tech style 3d printing? slightly outside our reach at a commercial level for the time being?

>>30514 If you want to discuss what robots should be build, please do this in /meta. Don't come at me with corporate lingo like "concept-to-product design standpoint" and "midpoints in overall design". But trying to answer it shortly: I'm the one who goes for something quite human like, while leaving the more robotic variants to other people. I have another more simple project going on myself, but this is currently stalled.

>>30514 >2) see >>240

>>30511 Started sketching some foot internals. I'm going from design to design to test how far I get within a relatively short period of time. The idea here is to have something like a internal case, maybe out of TPU which can hold some servos and sensors. The surrounding material would be silicon rubber of course. My previous approach was trying to model something from the outside in Solvespace, but this turned out to be difficult: >>16751 >>16831 >>16855

mandatory message

>>30522 Idk, you seem to be able to post. The more expensive dolls are made with silicone rubber, so we will need to master this. There are plenty of tutorials on Youtube and forums like the inventors corner in the Dollforum. Using other materials where it makes sense it not something I'm opposed to, but I'm certainly going to use silicone rubber for the skin. Maybe powermesh for cheaper variants, and of course combinations if possible.

>>30520 This is my design for a hinge that can carry electricity from one side to the other. The idea is to cut down on the need of cables which would bend and could break. The rod in the middle should be made out of an insulating material, but might still have a steel rod inside. Each pair of discs should be out of metal, while there's a layer of insulation in between. This doesn't necessarily need to carry the whole load alone, but in places with not much space it might.

>>30545 Wouldnt friction cause oxidation reducing the electrical conductivity? You should use graphite powder lubricant.

>>30548 >Wouldnt friction cause oxidation reducing the electrical conductivity? I don't know, thanks for the tip. Didn't know that friction does that, I'll look into it. If the part itself isn't used to carry load then the friction might not need to be as high. So this would be worth to keep in mind. >You should use graphite powder lubricant. Good idea.

>>30548 >Wouldnt friction cause oxidation I looked into it for a minute and didn't find anything. If you claim this to be true, then provide a source please.

>>30558 stainless steel should be fine, ironically youre already running a wire through it so iccp (impressed current cathodic protection) might be interesting

>>30559 Friction produces heat for one thing. Or were you looking for other causes? > This study has demonstrated that oxidation does take place at a temperature as low as 200 °C. The oxygen can diffuse into copper to a distance greater than 100 nm after oxidation at 200 °C in air for only 1 minute https://www.researchgate.net/publication/293013781_Oxidation_Behavior_of_Copper_at_a_Temperature_below_300_C_and_the_Methodology_for_Passivation Actually thinking of it more a graphite powder lubricant can be good or bad depending on how many connections are there and if you isolate them where the graphite wont make a short circuit.

I'm getting better at designing parts in a way that I can make animations out of it. It requires a different way of doing things, and always keeping that in mind. >>30567 >take place at a temperature as low as 200 °C I don't get it, this here would be at room temperature or whatever temperature small cables have. >if you isolate them where the graphite wont make a short circuit For adding a lubricant I would need to add a casing, which I will probably do, at least as an option.

>>30573 > I don't get it, this here would be at room temperature or whatever temperature small cables have. Higher the temperatures the more rapid oxidation and it even starts at around 200°C. Also metal expands when heated so uneven wear may occur over time causing rough spots that in theory could lead to small arcing which also oxidizes. Oxidized copper is not electrically conductive. The risk is likely small just worth keeping in mind in design. > For adding a lubricant I would need to add a casing, which I will probably do, at least as an option. I meant all the wire connections presumably pass through same hinge which I didnt consider originally so these need isolated from eachother within the hinge.

>>30574 You somehow seem to not have understand the whole concept. Overlooked something or whatever the reason is. Again: - It doesn't get anywhere near 200ºC, there's no heat involved or not much, or I don't know about it yet. - The different pairs of disk would be insulated, I wrote that in my first posting on this design: "Each pair of discs should be out of metal, while there's a layer of insulation in between." It's also somewhat obvious from the design >>30545 that the light blue disks are for insulation.

>>30573 This a type of slip ring. A component that everyone should endeavor to become formiliar with. https://www.uea-inc.com/blog/what-is-a-slip-ring-and-how-does-it-work

>>30589 -Well yes, I was just giving a possibility. I don't know what kind of temperatures can be generated from a little friction but sure it likely isn't that high. -Yes I can see the insulation in your design. I was suggesting if you used a graphite lubricant it would need the insulation to be small walls to prevent the lubricant from bridging connections If you were to use it.

>>30590 >This a type of slip ring Thanks, I thought that someone must have come up with that idea before and I think I came across the term before or I even asked about my idea and got told about the term but forgot it. We really need to keep this in mind, since we can't just replace bending cables in a human-like robot body all the time, and also it needs to be reliable during operation. Think especially about the hands, how much they move and bend. I can't imagine a cable lasting long in there.

>>30573 Early sketch of my eye design, I only had a very crude one here >>8034 which took me way longer. The goal is to let it move without motors, only using magnets. - The darkgrey rails are there to prevent it rolling sideways, and need to be designed in a way to prevent unwanted movement. This here is just a sketch. - In the holding sphere and on that backside of the eyeball as well, there should be magnets or alternatively metal on one side and magnets on the other. Then the magnets are supposed to move it, without making as much noise as a servo would. The sphere will also need to be electroplated to protect the camera from the magnetism. The hole in the back is obviously for the cables.

>>30723 You dont have to reinvent the wheel. Just use a cable or string pull system like this but with magnets. There is a few ways to accomplish that. Also unless you want ability to go cross eyed you possibly can control both eyes together as a pair instead of individually to save energy usage and a small bit of cost. You also wouldnt need ugly rails to prevent rotation of the eyes which wouldnt have really worked well anyway. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jqvu_MQ5pc Reason being if you place a camera in the eyes it likely is better to avoid magnetic forces that may in theory interfere with image quality and also if anyone wants to use magnet based touch sensors it is better to avoid being near the surface for an eye mechanism.

>>30732 Thanks for the tips. I'll take it into consideration. The problem is, part of the whole idea is to make the head waterproof and make the eye easily removable. I think this will be difficult to do with a string pull system. Idk yet, but it strikes me as more complex. >You dont have to reinvent the wheel. ... YT video Avoiding the common animatronic eye mechanism is exactly one of the goals. It's not water proof. >unless you want ability to go cross eyed Yes, ideally this should work. >You also wouldnt need ugly rails There's really a misunderstanding. Maybe I should've explained it better, but thought it was clear: This above is the backside of the eyeball. I wrote "The hole in the back is obviously for the cables." so I thought it was clear, but you probably got confused with me showing it from the back as well in the first pic. Then it looks like the eye with an opening for the camera. But no, so far this is all the backside. These rails would be internal. >use magnet based touch sensors I didn't plan to do so, or don't know yet, but thanks for the hint.

>>30737 >waterproof >backside of the eye Okay I think I understand better. I'm more visual focused so the images overrode anything I read. So does that mean you would have an eye socket that is sealed with the head with the ace just plop in there though water can flow around the eyes it cant flow into the head? I actually have seen little water pumps that had the propellor controlled by magnets so I could see how that would work I suppose. Why physical cables over using a very short distance wireless signal if you're going that route? It would make it more durable and easier to remove the eyes. Potential interference and image quality loss and the issue of batteries for the camera(s)? What made you think of that way over simply putting a stationary transparent dome that is flush to the that moves under it? Transparent plastic does yellow over time though so that would have to be replaced after some years though.

>>30739 >eye socket that is sealed with the head with the ace just plop in there though water can flow around the eyes it cant flow into the head? Yes, if I can make it work. The eyeball would be in a cavity, the electro magnets would be on the other side of the "skin" inside of the cavity. The cables would be sealed with silicone, with a connector underneath and longer than necessary. Of course the cavity would need to hold them as well. It could be stretch cables or whatever, idk yet. So if I wanted to switch out the eyeball, the "bone" around the eye socket should be able to extend, like a ring that can be stretched to increase the diameter with one hand. Then I could pull the eyeball out, cut through the silicone around the connector and plug them out. New ones plugged in and then sealed and put back. The main goals and advantages over the common animatronic eye mechanism would be: - Head can be water proof - The eye movement would be more quiet Optionally there could be a servo under each eye but still under the other side of the boundary of the holding cavity, the servo would have a magnet attacked, rotating the eyes sideways. This might be an option, if they're supposed to only move a little bit. I'm concerned that they would move to fast and only in a few steps instead gradually. Not sure if this looks well. Alternatively, under the eyeball there could be a (permanent) magnet with polarity to make the eyeballs a bit floating, so the other magnets could move them easier. > though water can flow around the eyes it cant flow into the head? No and kinda yes. Only the cavities could fill up, but for that reason there would probably be a little tube opening on the bottom where the water could flow into the body in a safe way. Probably into the esophagus (/gullet). This would also allow for putting in a cleaning liquid. Or having a mechanism for tears coming from a little tank in the head, without having the eye sockets being filled permanently. >I actually have seen little water pumps that had the propellor controlled by magnets so I could see how that would work I suppose. Okay, but this is then likely a very week mechanism. >Why physical cables over using a very short distance wireless signal if you're going that route? Idk if I can trust wireless signals, also magnetism would interfere with it as well, I guess. Especially since the antennas would need to be exposed. > It would make it more durable and easier to remove the eyes. Maybe, but I don't thing by much. I would rather make the connector between the eyeballs and cables into something that can move around on it's own. >Potential interference and image quality loss and the issue of batteries for the camera(s)? I hope this can be mitigated by electroplating these parts and maybe adding some addition metal mesh inside. >What made you think of that way over simply putting a stationary transparent dome that is flush to the that moves under it? Idk, because my approach is closer to human eyes? This is actually worth contemplating, good idea. I don't think I want or could create transparent plastic spheres, but they might be available from some sources. Then the border would need to be sealed really well, and the more traditional mechanism could work inside. Though, not sure how much this could be trusted and how it would look like. Thinking about how to switch them out if they're old or there's a scratch would also necessary. >Transparent plastic does yellow over time though so that would have to be replaced after some years though. Yes.

>>30747 I made a negative of how the backside of they eyeball is supposed to be allowed to move in the cavity. Creating this is quite compute intensive and slow on my laptop. I'm also not sure if I made a mistake, since it looks like there are areas which would be blocking. But it's just a test anyways. I had the idea to put little pivot spheres onto the eyeball (backside). On top and bottom. This is to reduce friction. Sideways looking would just require to rotate the eyeball on these, the "rails" are just to constrain it from rolling, but these might not even be necessary and I'll probably remove them. Of course the eye cavity part in which it moves will also need to be altered. Additionally this part also needs a whole for the cables.

>>30758 >backside of an eyeball and eye sockets with cutouts to tilt or rotate them around without falling out I changed the design towards only using some small spheres as holders and pivots. The white parts in the picrels would be what's cut out from the holder behind, so it can move using 4 small spheres around the backside of the eyeball. Picrel one and two are with fewer cuts, just to show the principle. Not sure if it's going to work that way, I still have to try it out and maybe think more about it. But I can adjust the code relatively easy now if I think it's necessary.

I really like where your design research is going here, NoidoDev! Looking forward to seeing your results, Anon. Cheers. :^)

Started working on a skull in OpenScad with the aim of making it easily configurable based on the eye size and later maybe other features, by just changing a number like the size of the eyes and the rest should adapt to that change. Not sure if this is going to work. Such attempts tend to somewhat fail, since everything has to relate to each other. Either way, I'll need a human-like waifu skull. The model I'm using for reference is a female skull from Thingyverse. I will first make it relatively similar with as few parts as possible, and then increase the size of the eye sockets. It already looks kinda interesting.

>>31383 Working on it, one step at the time, but I wasted too much time with other stuff. Anyways, here the update: - Are we building bodies for aliens? - The nose is still to big. - Cheek bones still missing. - Chin is maybe still to big. - Generally a lot of things are necessary to do, but I can always use this as a placeholder.

>>31414 Further optimizations.

>>31415 Still on it.

Very cool progress, NoidoDev! Please keep up the great work. Cheers. :^)

>>31422 An early, fast and simple sketch to make a head fitting to a 3D face, admittingly not a good face in this case. The face is from 2D to 3D rendering, described here >>32770 and in the linked comments. Part of the idea is to make the head smaller while the 2D to 3D AI isn't willing to do that. Ideally we will also be able to use that to make an automatic face modelling AI, which would creating the right sized heads for the face and combine the parts.

>>31422 >>32793 I also worked a bit on a lower jaw with teeth, but this was just a test and I'm not sure if this is going anywhere. Might not be the right way, but could still be a placeholder.

>>32794 >Might not be the right way, but could still be a placeholder. I think it's fine at this stage, NoidoDev. Character modelling by hand like this is almost always a 'process of refinements', is it not? Cheers. :^)

Prototyping soft TPU panels for a flexible tummy. Tests show that best aesthetics are achieved printing it upright. That it should be as thin as possible, and that a back which is an inversion of the front leads to the best detail and hand feel. Overall, I am not sure how to viably continue this research. It seems that the maximum height before significant distortion is 10cm. This is rather tiny.

>>33724 >It seems that the maximum height before significant distortion is 10cm. This is rather tiny. May be effectively a blessing in disguise, Kiwi. If we can keep our component swatch sizes smol, I think that will likely increase the number of Anons in the future (particularly low-income places) that can 'follow along in the fun!' with us here. Ideas? >=== -sp, minor edit

>>33726 Any ideas for connecting these pieces together? I've tried M3 screws but, TPU can stretch around the head.

>>33727 Yes. Print a series of interlocking tabs/flats (for tabs) on the backs of each panel. Print a base ring around her waist (for support) that the first row of interlocked panels go down into. Then progressively build up the next row of interlocked panels, etc. Make sense Kiwi?

>>33728 Could you provide some visual to go with your idea? What I imagine based on your response would still have the issue of the TPU parts stretching out of the connectors.

>>33730 >What I imagine based on your response would still have the issue of the TPU parts stretching out of the connectors. Yes, that would be an issue. I'd suggest experimenting with some non-panel test strips of tabs/flats, with a running series of matched sets that get progressively longer. Then you can just fiddle with them by hand to get a feel of what length will stay secure. Also, you might decide that each flat could use a leading 'guide slot' (kind of like a belt going through it's attached loop to stay snug) the tab could slide down into to keep it nicely secured into that matching flat. Also, you might decide to have a series of rings running up the (torso, say) to provide supports for the rows of panels both above and below. Kind of like Victorian hoop dresses were. As for the basic concept, there are lots of storage bins that have a series of interlocking tabs/flats on the two lid halves. When you close the two halves of the lid, they interlock together (one tab to one flat) and it provides passive rigidity. Also I can't post images while Robi has file posting blocked for Torfags (this is also why I can't bake new breads rn). Sorry. :P >=== -add 'guide slot' cmnt

>>32794 Managed to do a bit of more work on the skull design. The jaw is shown with cylinders for holding teeth, but this could be switched out with simple teeth in the design, or holes for holding other ones. It can relatively easily be changed. Though, changing the number or anything is still a bit more difficult than I'd like. Whatever, that's the case for many things. I always hope I can make something that I can change by some variables, but it turns out to be more complex with interdependencies.

>>34096 Keep up the great work Anon! Cheers. :^)

Remember to dehydrate your filament

>>34523 Great reminder Kiwi, thanks! I hope these parts can still 'stand in' for your current prototype revision(s) ATM. Really looking foward to seeing your final outcome on this. Cheers. :^)

>>34523 Also check your belt tightness, and maybe decrease your speed. Check your printing table, it may be loose. https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/vibrations-and-ringing/

>>34528 I'm usually the one providing that kind of feedback. In this case, I can confidently say it's just wet filament. Good eye though, going too fast can lead to those lines. There was nearly zero vibration and ringing, the filament was just that wet.

heres my latest video regarding moving the eyes with magnets instead of servos for quiet animatronics. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ge7sgc_zFjM

Designing a quick and easy to print and use system for building waifu skellingtons. Based on the 2020 t slot extrusion framing. Why? Because, it's a very common system to use already. Creating a compatible system will help waifu blocks (name pending) be usable with plenty of off the shelf solutions.

>>34687 POTD Brilliant. Please continue along this path to help us all take the modularity pill, Anon! Cheers, Kiwi. :^)

i am dissapointed the ferrite cores are not working. i unwound the stainless steel screw to making this one, ended up using just 50 cm of wire less to get less turns(30 vs 100) and it has hardly any magnetic attraction. yet all across the internet youll find people saying use iron not stainless steel. its worse in every way.

>>34740 that wire doesnt look enameled, burn the end of it with a lighter, if it smokes wrap it around more or use a thinner wire, you want as much overlap as possible so the longer you make it the better, if it didnt smoke just get the right wire, it has to be completely isolated so theres no connection on contact

>>34743 it is enameled and i did burn and scrape the ends of it also the stainless steel electromagnet it works but it drains the battery super fast. honestly id like a power unit to just input the right amount of amps. i figured the end result would use batteries but this is annoying. who knows there might be some collaboration at some point. >funny i know

>>34744 >drains the battery super fast theres lots of ways you can limit the current like using capacitors but it will make the strength weaker, current and # of windings is what determines the strength ( in general )

>>34740 That electromagnet configuration is not meant for electromagnetic strength but rather utilizing the magnetic field for electronic silliness. The most common use for this sort of thing I can think of is a DC to DC boost converter: from what I understand it pulses the magnetic field in such a way that it increases voltage (but decreases current), sorta like the electrical equivalent of a flywheel. If you want an electromagnet with more strength using that core you will need thinner wire to pack more windings on there. If you're careful enough you could probably salvage them from a dc motor.

>>34748 my internet went out and i stayed awake all night . that was boring. Anyways its the opposite. volts dont matter for an electromagnet only current dies. i tried using a mosfet and a diode but ultimately what i noticed is that this thing is very sensitive to resistance. So much so that even using cables from the battery casing makes it way weaker. it wants straight access to the battery with copper and it wont give good results otherwise. i was getting better results when i was holding it with the kitchen mittens. I can confirm that volts dont matter because i even tried using pic related which i have laying around and it made no difference.

>>34756 I encourage you to read that post again very, very slowly and stop with the moralfagging. Your itsy bitsy toroid is not meant to be a strong electromagnet.

>>34762 im going with the stainless steel volt since that works well enough. i got to lift a washer 7 mm from the table once. Thatd be good enough for the eye. What im thinking off right now that toroid might be useful as a step down transformer but itd need an oscillator circuit. its my understanding my knowledge of electronics is quiet basic. i dont think itll be that essential throughout the robot since utll be mostly microcontrollers for the prototype i think. >moralfagging im a bit dissapointed you guys give the imoression that youre trying to this blind on purpose. Like the ai for example. You guys could have bern learning about transformers, tensorflow, pytorch, training loras, etc... since you guys serm keen on the ai at the expense of the rest. but youre not. Even if you know C++ doing it blind its pointless. You know the burning of the library of alexandria lead to the dark ages. Youll get nowhere without the knowledge ther people came up with.

>>34763 Nigga u cant even read proper nevermind all that other shit.

>>34766 i just got a little condition is all no biggie. i am aware i dont have a podcasters level of communication.

im going to have to reprint this but i want to speed run through the electromagnetic eyes so i can skip to the good part. i took the picture from this angle so the ball and socket joint can be seen. on the back wall is where the electromagnets will go. the screw one not the donut one. the donut one didnt work snd its a shame. its iron which should have worked better.

>>34784 i dont know what im looking at but if its what i think then thats pretty smart, you could make it like a joystick except instead of pressing a combination of 4 buttons its 4 electromagnets and you just increase the current in each one to make the eye move in that direction, the eye of course being fixed in the center by a spring

>>34789 Thank you. why a spring? i used a ball and socket joint. The brown bits are from mellting some parts with the soldering iron. The steel screw electromagnet is very sensitive to resistance. So much so itll have a fraction of the magnetic pull if i dont put its copper ends straight to the battery.

>>34792 >why a spring for resistance against the magnetic pull, it should be centered when the magnets are off and 'more left' should physically mean 'more left' lol, it will allow you to do the entire range of motion, like instead of going completely left with the left magnet at 100% the current you can do 50% left by just doing half the current on that side, you can just use rubber bands it doesnt have to be a metal spring >very sensitive to resistance yeah your wire is too thick, use the thinnest you can find, i have a battery powered speaker with an electromagnet and the windings are just 1mm

>>34796 i think its the other way around. The thicker the wire the more electricity can flow through it at once, the less resistance, also it being copper helps. the best is silver and gold. The trade off of the thicker wire is that is harder to make more turns around the metal core and it ends up being bulkier. The more turns the stronger it is but also the less resistance the more amps. i need to get more wire and consider the tradeoffs... Also raising voltage at the expense of current is easier than raising current at the exprnse of voltage. As for the eyes movements being jerky i figure id move them a little bit since theyll be big anime eyes. But will use a spring if it ends up being necessary.

>>34797 its still just copper though just try it, i think youll benefit more from making the wire longer, if you can get the same strength with only a fraction of the current then the higher resistance doesnt make a difference, except for heat which is how they always break, they get too hot and the enamel melts off causing it to shortcircuit, you can probably calculate what your minimum thickness is but i doubt thats going to be a problem in your case

>>34798 for practicality's sake i should just use the steel screws however i am not a practical guy and im a little stubborn. Theres a little side project ive been meaning to do and that is the brown gas torch. it should be able to melt iron with just electricity and water and will be a tool that will come in handy later on either way. It used to be the case you could buy iron nails bit even those are now made out of steel. theres iron powder however however even that is rare. i just need it to get hot enough to sinther. After i get my hands of pure iron rods it will be far less pucky about resistance snd better overall. This might set me back because ill have to wait for the parts to arrive from china however.

>>34812 oh yeah i did this as a kid, its just electrolysis, you dont need good electrodes for it if you just put plug in your cable into a wall outlet, thats more than enough volts to dissociate water, you can use steel just use something with lots of surface area so you get more than just a bubble every second, i remember using the bottom of a stapler which was just two steel plates but it oxidized and become useless after just a couple of minutes of doing this, its not as cool as you think, carbid rocks that you just throw in water and voila, is a lot better, still fun though just dont burn your hair off

>>34693 M3 compatibility achieved. Compatible with nearly all 2020 extrusion accessories aside from end caps. They would require M5 or M6 compatible ends which I don't care for. (I have heaps of M3 hardware, it's cheap as crisps and easy to work with.) Now, to flesh out the design with accessories. Open to suggestions for accessory designs. Also, needs a name.

>>34813 i actually tried plugging it into a wall outlet before and it blew a fuse. I think its cool because i can melt pretty much anything with it if it works as advertised. Its far more efficient for melting and cutting little things for pennies per dollar for the equivalent alternative.

>>34815 >blew a fuse yeah i remember that too lol, dont let the electrodes touch >if it works as advertised it doesnt, you cant get a sustained flame (unless you have a way to pressurize the gas youre making which it being hydrogen is absurd to begin with) its not going to last long, it takes a while before you have enough gas to light it and then its not going to last long before you need to 'recharge', its nothing close to a proper torch with high pressure gas, people just say that because 'the sun is hydrogen so a hydrogen torch must be as hot as the sun' or some stupid like that

>>34816 hydrogen is one of natures gifts people just didnt appreciate. it can melt anything and it can lift objects to near orbit. Sure if you put two electrodes in a cup itll form little bubbles you can pop with a lighter. However with a little more effort trying to make something more airtight it can be turned into a torch. hydrigen will escape because its the smallest element but to within a reasonable extent. maybe the iron doesnt nevessarily need to be molten it just needs to be malleable enough to bond.

>>34817 it has like 0 density, how many jouls are in 1m^3 of hydrogen vs 1m^3 of propane and propane accessories anyway i also remembered i used fking table salt (nacl) as an electrolyte, so i was making chlorine gas as well, must be why i remember it being so shit, make sure you also use an electrolyte that doesnt turn to gas

>>34818 last time i used baking soda. So im completely clueless about chemistry and thats okay because ive been jack of all trading too much anyways. Anyways yeah i asked chatgpt and it said something useful for once. it said i should use iron oxide because itd react with the hydrogen. im very skeptical ill be able to achieve 2000 celsius or more but 800-1000 should be doable. on top of that id add calcium carbonate lowering the melting point again. and this is good because theyre easier to find and cheaper. Really derailing where i was going but this is interesting notheless...

>>34820 >Really derailing theres cooler more relevant stuff like electroplating which is the same approach though, you just dont use water ( for the same reasons youre using it ) and make one electrode the metal you want to plate with and the other the one that gets plated, i dont remember which is which for -ve/+ve >it said i should use iron oxide because itd react with the hydrogen just ignore it, its nonsense and you dont even want the hydrogen reacting with anything other than itself to make the hydrogen gas, the reaction is 2h2o + 2e- = h2 + 2oh-, h2o dissociates into h+ and oh- ions, then the hydrogen ions (h+) react with themselves due to the presser of electrons (e-) from the electricity to make hydrogen gas (h2) which youll see bubbling up from the electrodes, its exactly what you dont want to see when electroplating

>>34821 im not agaisnt electroplating but im not trying to make a shiny 3d printed pokeball im trying to make an electromagnet. i think the current flows inside the ferrite core it doesnt just flow around on thd surface.

>>34823 its not it flows in the wire, the core doesnt have an current going through it only the magnetic field created from the wire thats why you want a core with a high magnetic permeability like iron and not steel so that the fields can superimpose properly

so nobody likes the idea... you know brown gas torches are used in jewelry. i suppose electroplating is a good idea as long as it can be thicc. id like a 1 cm diameter iron rod maybe 1-2 cm length. if i can start put with a 2 mm diameter of what i assume would be plastic amd scale it up and have no draw backs maybe thats the way to go.

All this whacky experimentation has been for nothing. Hannah dev just used bldc motors and achieved silent movement. I might as well skip this and go on to the small scale test robot i guess.

>> electromagnets should be pure iron. regular magnets are made out of colbalt and something else, the best ones are the neodyum ones. copper can be pulled by a regular magnet as well when its charged and that requires less emergy however regular magnets are prone to losing the strength over time. the realistic approach of diy iron is mixing iron powder with epoxy and acetone i think bu t i dint want to get stuck on this. theres 12 volts electromagnets that advertise like 25 newtons ofce whicjlh is quiet strong but it has high energy requirements and might be overkill for the face.

>>34853 arent these things just pure iron, you can demagnatize it by putting it in the oven i think, maybe hit with a hammer to teach it a lesson

>>34862 electromagnets should be pure iron. regular magnets are made out of colbalt and something else, the best ones are the neodyum ones. copper can be pulled by a regular magnet as well when its charged and that requires less emergy however regular magnets are prone to losing the strength over time. the realistic approach of diy iron is mixing iron powder with epoxy and acetone i think bu t i dint want to get stuck on this. theres 12 volts electromagnets that advertise like 25 newtons ofce whicjlh is quiet strong but it has high energy requirements and might be overkill for the face.

>>34863 thats good, i found a table and the iron cobalt alloys have even better permeability than pure iron, like permendur ( 50/50 iron/cobalt ) thats definitely what you want for an electromagnet

>>34864 gemini says that iron colbalt its even better than iron however i dont trust the ais as far as stem because they go back and forth between lying and telling the truth. according to this high purity iron is better and irs not even a contest. However iron epoxy is not high purity iron. few torches can reach the temperature to melt iron. id like to get my hands on an arc furnance however i dont know if id get to use it often for it to be worth it.

>>34865 well okay ill believe iron colbalt is better. i came across a 1600 watt induction heater and that should be abke to melt the 1cm dismeter iron colbakt alloy. im just feeling kind of stingy lately. the magnetic powder might be iron colbalt.

>>34866 well this one a good tutorial i came across too https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YQNW4ZTsg2w&t=373s

>>34867 cant you just buy these or repurpose one?

>>34873 So i had 3 options mix iron with resin thermite iron melting iron i did say im feeling kind of stingy so went with the first. the resin will also come in handy for making the mask mold which i syrugled with last time because the boolean modifier didnt work. Also i got acetone, silicon oil and silicon caulk. if it works well have access to cheap skin made from silucon from the hardware store.

>>34874 If I'm not mistaken pure iron with it's high permeability is hard to come by cheaply. I do know for a fact that most transformer iron is high silicon iron. I thought of a cheap way to get some reasonably high permeability iron. Dirt is full of it. Take bunch of dirt and put in bucket of water with a magnet and stir about. Remove the collected iron oxides and put into a sealable bottle like a milk bottle. Shake to wash then put the magnet on the outside. That which sticks best has the most permeability. You could do this several times to get the stuff most attracted to the magnet.

>>34877 i got lucky and came across 1kg of iton powder for $3 i dont know what im going to do with all that iron though. i am aware that mixing iron with resin lowers its permiability however as long as its more permeable than steel its okay. The guy on the youtube video said he got good results but he used polyutharine i think not polyester and normally epoxy is used for inductors however i ended spending $15 for the materials so good overall. Since i got a lot of iron i can try dirt or clay too later on if this doesnt work and since nobody is selling ieon rods for electromagnets i might idk.

>>34877 That's a very neat idea, Grommet! I'm located in mountains, and I'd guess there's lots and lots of soluble iron content. I may try this the next time I'm panning for gold. Thanks, Anon. :^)

>>34881 taking diy to the next level are we lol. id say the most straightforward way is by collecting pyrite rocks as those are common and easy to spot. Theyre made up of iron and sulfur so you might be able to get both.

>>34882 Yeah good thinking peteblank. I actually had some Fool's Gold lying around at some point.

>>34878 It may be that the polyester is not so bad. I'm, slowly, looking into this. Iron transformers have a coating between the sheets. The reason is that as the magnetic field goes through the iron core currents are introduced, I think, perpendicular, to the magnetic field. I do know that currents are introduced that cause waste heat and does not help you actively. It's wasted. Newer ceramic ferrites have less of this because they do not conduct across the particles (I think). Here's a good paper on this and a quote, "...Several soft magnetic materials show promise for high-frequency operation. As oxides, soft ferrites stand out from other magnetic materials because they are insulating and therefore excel at reducing losses from eddy currents. However, soft ferrites suffer from a saturation magnetization (Ms) that is approximately one-fourth that of silicon steel. This substantially limits the power density in devices designed using soft ferrites and therefore limits their application..." https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/science.aao0195 Now this saturation may not be a problem. I guess it depends. Is the current waste problem with iron worse than the magnetic saturation problem with the ceramic? I do not know the answer to this as it can get rather complicated. I suspect some guy whose been at this for a long time could give a quick answer. My plan is the same as yours, use ferrites (iron oxide) and mix that with resin. I'm not sure what the loss of permability with resin coating the iron oxide is. It maybe better to have the losses from eddy currents. I guess you could make a core for a solenoid and find out. I looked into some of these new wonder ceramic ferrites (Manganese-zinc ferrite (MnZn))but there's a problem. getting them. I can find them and they are not prohibitively expensive "if" you buy them 25 pounds at a time. Not cheap because who needs 25 pounds for prototyping. Otherwise they are difficult to get or too expensive in small lots. Likely the best plan of action, for me anyways, is to use iron oxide for prototyping which is super cheap and "if" it works out test some of this super whiz bang ceramic stuff for mass production where buying in quantity would be ok. Believe me it's extremely likely that ANY dirt you dig up will have a lot of iron oxide in it. One idea I had for the iron from dirt is to separate it with a magnet then grind between a couple bricks, it so that the spacing between the iron particles will be smaller when I add resin. It could be, but I don't know the answer, that aligning the iron particles with a magnet as the resin sets up might make it better for actuators. One more link. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_core

Found a chart looking for iron-silicon powder CHART: Permeability of Popular Iron Powder Types https://www.horizontechnology.biz/hs-fs/hubfs/iron%20powder%20chart.jpg?width=2063&name=iron%20powder%20chart.jpg An interesting thing on the chart. Pure iron powder is not as good as silicon powder. Pure iron permeability (meaning how much magnetic field it will allow with less resistance) is REALLY high for pure iron but this must only be for continuous sheet. Interesting.

A link and its a good one for understanding. Look down at the chart for permeability vs saturation. Regular iron is not so bad at all. I'm not sure this can be said for iron oxide but I do believe "roughly" that it's not that bad and will be perfectly suitable for testing. https://www.e-magnetica.pl/doku.php/coercivity So I looked it up and "may" have an answeron the iron oxide. It's from the paper, "Fabrication and comparative study of magnetic Fe and α-Fe 2 O 3 nanoparticles dispersed hybrid polymer (PVA+Chitosan) novel nanocomposite film" The chart https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Frequency-dependent-real-permeability-of-iron-and-iron-oxide-nanoparticles_fig6_325786171 This looks good. Looking at this I could see a finely ground iron oxide in some sort of glue matrix could be a very successful material for us.. It does very well at low frequency, which is fine for us. A lot of papers are more concerned with high frequency stuff for microwaves. So if you grind your oxide you get from dirt repeatedly then wash in a plastic bottle, only collecting the magnetic particles that stick, you could easily end up with nano-particles of the stuff you need.

>>34916 Two items arrived. all thats missing is the polyester silicone oil and the acetone. The game plan as far as the skin is mixing a little bit of acetone, a little bit of silicon/e oil and for the pigmemt i also got a little of part b silicone rubber, the part a bucket spilled if the skin works that could be a big deal because even if its not entirely a skin doll surface there might still need for the bottom, er chest snd hands. with ecoflex or dragon skin thatd be cost prohibitive. 1 gallon of ecoflex is ~$260 one galon is 0.134 cubic feet. one gallon sounds like a lot. i said before id divide the volume by five to guesstimate the amount if skin. 1/5=0.2 say we could get away with 1 gallon per foot. if the robot us 5 feet tall*1foot depth*1foot length ao roughly 5 gallons. 260*5=$1300 right there. All in all is not great but not terrible if you consider the amount people are prepared to spend on their nvidia cards ff. silicon caulk is much cheaper by comparison at 280 ml itd be $27 per gallon. 5 gallons is $135 so 1/10th the price As far as the eyes it could be more convinient to make screen eyes really. but maybe for the lips it could be more useful. Not that it wouldnt be useful if the eyes work with the electromagnets. might as well finish them since i printed it... The polyester will also be useful for making the negative part of the mold. i got 1kg so 1 liter. The mask positive print i have right now is 14*12*4 cm=672 cm^3 1 liter is a thousand cm^3 so it should be enpugh to make the negative part of the mold barely. Anyways using electromagnets for the lips... It could steel plates sorrounding the lips. rough estimates since from shoulder to shoulder itd be really 2 feet but you redo the geometry.

>>34918 Here is my idea for the lips For the letter O which none have solved as far i can tell youd turn on the electromagnet in the middle.

>>34919 a blown out O maybe, are they all magnets? i dont think thats feasible, it will have to extremely strong and the points of attraction are too close together to have any specific control over, each of those magnets will do the exact same thing

>>34919 That's probably a good idea, peteblank. And for the entire smooshy facemask, not just the lips. Cheers. :^)

>>34924 yes i underestimated how force required to move the lips. on my current mask... i just measured with the dynometer moving the lip down and it took 4 netwons of force. The better appeoach woukd be to use neodyum magnets. Neodyum magnets generate 1.5 tesla which is more than 4 newtons according to my guesstimemates. Theres also premade electromagnets but those consume 12 volts and might be overkill. Copper is not normally magnetic but it becomes magnetic if electricity i applied to it. the electromagnets are also pretty bulky.

>>34934 oh that makes more sense, like you would not only be able to turn on the magnets individually but also the points of the mouth that would be pulled by the outer magnets, thats smart but still really complicated, copper doesnt become magnetic it becomes a magnet, a really weak one, you would have to make them into coils like the electromagnet but without the core so that theyre not attracted when not on otherwise the whole mouth will move, and make sure the polarity is correct with the outer magnets otherwise it will repeal instead of attract

>>34936 actually you can just reverse the polarity if you reverse the current so they can push/pull the points on the mouth, you just have to make sure the poles of the inner and outer magnets are facing each other

>>34936 i could use a plastic core i think

>>34942 there must be alloys that are good cores that arent magnetic, i know magnesium and aluminium arent magnetic so maybe try a pencil sharpener lol

>>34943 okay then aluminum core. i dont like magnesium because it might wear down with the heat and aluminum screws are cheap and easy to find either way.

>>34944 i was thinking about alloys, the benefit with pure aluminum is too small to care about for a core, stainless steel isnt magnetic and way better its like 500 but i dont know what kind, some of them are apparently magnetic

>>34946 so yeah like most people these days i asked chatgpt and chatgpt said it coukdnt be done. But i came across this https://hackaday.com/2024/03/27/sort-of-electromagnet-attracts-copper-aluminum/ so is a little more tricky than i thought. The two aluminum electromagnets need to generate opposite alternating currents. However that implies itd also need an oscillator circuit to generate the ac. So this idea is turning out to be more complicated than i thought. 4 newtons of force is not an incredible amount of force. However if the aluminum electromagnet were used itd have the advatange of being able to be pulled and pushed...

>>34947 well no an arduino can generate ac with pwm too i guess.

>>34947 thats clever, its the same thing youre already going to do though, its just two electromagnets but one is made by inducing a current in the one that doesnt have any current in it by making the magnetic field go back and forth to induce a current in it (which makes it create a magnetic field that can be attracted), thats the only reason you would need an ac current to cause induction, but you can already just make both of them electromagnets without having to induce a current, you just need to make them strong

>>34949 yeah too itd be too much effort to use tge aluminum idea. Here are two calculators related to electromagnets okay so my phone is not letting me copy paste okay. Anyways. There are two calculators that are relevant two this in omnicalcukator.com the solenoid formula which outputs tesla and lorentz formula which outputs newtons i know my lithium batteries are 4 volts and 9900 mah however i dont know the current i think i broke my multimeter trying to measure a live wire on the wall switch So im just going to go ahead and assume 100 turns and my batteries ought to be enough to generate the required force

>>34863 Not sure if this belongs in the thread here or if it should be in >>154 anyways. Though, since this is about making a electromagnet, I guess it's right here, but maybe I will add a crosslink later. However, I asked Claude on the topic. According to that, first it claimed that pure or not pure iron would not make such a huge difference. Good iron cores would best be bought from a scientific supply shop and also it would be good to have these iron cores laminated to reduce eddy current losses. Low carbon steel would be a more accessible alternative. Pure iron would be 200-300% better. Cobalt alloy would be in between. However, coil winding, core geometry and other factors are also important: U-/E-shape or better toroidal, lamination between layers, length and diameter, number of turns and pattern, ... >>34866 Everything you do is always so wild that people don't know if this is trolling or not. >>34867 Okay, maybe it is doable, but ... >>34873 Yeah, especially for small ones it's probably better to just buy the magnets on Ali-Express? Or just make simple ones out of bend nails? >>34877 Okay, Doctor Stone. Or we just buy it? Unless we live in a slum in Pakistan or India. >>34942 I somehow lost you here. You also want something that's not magnetic?! >>34918 >ecoflex or dragon skin thatd be cost prohibitive This is probably fine for prototyping, but medical silicone is more safe. The one for bathrooms contains anti-fungal ingredients which might be unhealthy. Especially zinc and silver compounds.

>>34955 ty ty ideally the skin would be food grade however youre not going to be coming into contact with the skin all day unless youre a giga coomer. If it were mass produced i think injection molds and tpe would be the best way i think. Unrelated but for the ai i like the current ai i dont think it needs to be scrapped. chatgpt is a language model(llm) which is a subset of machine learning. Machine learning can adapt and learn. My plans for the movement is mostly preprogramned and correcting utself with sensors. Ill use ai for visual recognition and llm. i said id make a small scale robot next year and take a concious break from this for the rest of december but idk.

Yikes what happemed here? Could be theyre getting scared. im not scared because all my files are on microsoft onedrive anyways so if they p0wn me i can just reinstall. Anyways here is the diy silicone rubber https://youtu.be/xoFGHcsb1_Q

>>35026 >>34962

>>35027 finals? did chobitsu start this site as a teenager? This site has been up for 9 years chobitsu if youve been in college for 9 years drop out